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JOURNAL  OF  AN  EMBASSY  ^ 

,     ^  FROM    THE 

GOVERNOR-GENERAL  OF  INDIA 
TO  THE  COURTS  OF 

SIAM  AND   COCHIN   CHINA; 

'•      EXHIBITING  A  VIEW  OF  THE 
ACTUAL  STATE  OF  THOSE  KINGDOMS. 

BY 

JOHN  CRAWFURD,  ESQ.,  FRS.,  FLS.,  FGS.,  &c. 

LATE  ENVOY. 


SECOND  EDITION. 


IN   TWO    VOLUMES. 
VOL  I, 


LONDON: 
HENRY  COLBURN  AND  RICHARD  BENTLEY, 
"  NEW  BURLINGTON  STREET. 

1830. 


Just  Published^ 
JOURNAL    OF    AN    EMBASSY 

FROM    THE    OOVERNOR-OENERAL   OF   INDIA 
TO  THE 

COURT   OF   AVA,   IN   THE   YEAR   1827. 

BY  JOHN  CBAWFURD,  ESQ. 

LATE   ENVOY. 


LONDON: 
PRINTED  BY  SAMUEL  BENTLBT, 

Doiaet  Street,  Fleet  Street. 


CONTENTS 

OP  THE  FIRST  VOLUME. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Nature  of  the  Mission.—- Departure  from  Calcutta. — Islands 
Preparis  and  Narcondam. — Sayer  Islands. — Coast  of  Siam. 
— Arrival  at  Penang.-*-Inyasion  of  the  neighbouring  Ma- 
layan Principality  by  the  Siamese. — Incidents  at  Penang.— 
Descriptionof  the  Settlement  .        .        .        •        1 

CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  from  Penang. — ^Description  of  the  Principality  of 
Queda.— Description  of  the  Dinding  Islands. — Account  of 
Perak. — ^Arriyal  at  Malacca. — Incidents  there.— Description 
of  the  place.— Visit  to  the  Carimon  Islands.— Arrival  at 
Singapore. — Incidents  there. — Ancient  Settlement  of  the 
Malays. — Chinese  Navigation. — Account  of  the  race  of  Ma- 
lays called  Orang-laut  •  .41 

CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  from  Singapore. — Passage  to  the  Coast  of  Borneo.^ 
Malayan  Islands  in  the  ChanneL—^ Visit  to  Pulo*Ubi,  and 
Description  of  it.-«Numerous  Islands  on  the  eastern  coast  of 
the  Gulf  of  Siam. — Island  of  Phnkok  described.— Arrival  in 
the  roads  of  Siam         .  .  .  .86 


IV  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Communication  of  our  ArriTal  made  to  the  Court  of  Siam. — 
Entertainment  given  to  the  Mission. — ^Negotiation  for  pro- 
ceeding to  the  Capital. — Ship  ascends  the  River ;  appearance 
of  its  Banks. — ^Arrival  at  Bangkok ;  appearance  of  the  phice. 
— Delivery  of  the  Governor-General's  Letter. — Visit  to  the 
Phraklang,  or  Foreign  Minister. — Delivery  of  the  Presents 
for  the  King.— The  Mission  lands. — Description  of  its  Resi- 
'  dence. — Visit  to  the  Prince  Krom-chiat,  now  King  of  Siam. 
—Arrangement  of  the  Ceremonial  for  our  Presentation  to 
the  King. — Second  Visit  to  the  Foreign  Minister.— The 
Mission  presented  to  the  King. — Description  of  the  Cere- 
mony.— Inspection  of  the  White  Elephants^  &c. — The  Mis- 
sion receives  a  visit,  and  is  entertained  by  the  Foreign 
Minister         .  .  •  •  •  .     109 

CHAPTER  V. 

Mission  visited  by  the  Portuguese  Consul. — Rapacity  of  the 
Court. — State  of  Parties.  -  Visit  to  the  Portuguese  Consul. 
—Visit  to  Siamese  Temples^  and  description  of  them. — 
Number  and  variety  of  the  Votaries. — Their  conduct. — Visit 
to  the  town  of  Bangkok. — Buddhist  Temple. — Hindu  Tem- 
ple.— Ancient  Ruins. — Commencement  of  the  Negotiation. 
— Relics  of  Gautama. — Despatches  sent  by  the  Mission  across 
the  Peninsula. — Visit  to  the  Prince  Krom-chiat^  and  Conver- 
sation held  with  him. — Opinion  entertained  by  the  Siamese 
respecting  our  Indian  Conquests. — Funeral  of  a  Siamese. — 
Excursion  to  the  Neighbourhood  of  Bangkok — Religious  re- 
gard of  the  Siamese  for  Animal  life. — Splendid  Temple 
constructing  by  the  Prince  Krom-chiat. — Negotiation  renew- 
ed.— King's  Character  and  Employments. — Annual  Cere- 
mony of  the  King's  holding  the  Plough  .^-Punishment  of  a 
Christian  Interpreter. — ^Arrival  of  a  Portuguese  and  an  Eng- 
lish Merchant- vessel     .  .  .  .  .160 


CONTENTS.  V 

CHAPTER  VL 

Negotiation  put  off,  owing  to  his  Majesty's  changing  his  resi- 
dence.— Acquaintance  made  with  a  Siamese  Priest. — Arrival 
of  a  Ship  belonging  to  the  King  of  Siam  from  Bengal. — 
Anecdote  illustrative  of  the  Character  of  the  Siamese  Go- 
vernment.— Visit  to  a  singular  Temple. — Renewal  of  the 
N^otiation. — Arrival  of  Ambassadors  from  Cochin  China, 
and  their  Reception. — Second  Visit  to  the  Siamese  Priest, 
and  Conversation. — Practice  of  kidnapping  Strangers,  and 
selling  them  in  Siam  for  Slaves. — Death  of  a  Princ^  from 
Cholera  Morbus — Visit  from  some  Brahmins,  and  an  account 
of  them. — Account  of  a  Siamese  Ceremony. — A  Conference 
with  the  Phraklang,  or  Foreign  Minister. — Siamese  Letter- 
writing. — Visit  from  a  Chief  of  Lao.— Setting  in  of  the 
South-west  Monsoon. — Siamese  Reptiles. — Arrival  of  an 
American  Ship. — Another  Conference. — Cochin  Chinese  Am- 
bassadors visit  the  Phraklang. — Visit  to  the  Catholic  Bishop 
of  Siam,  and  Conversation  with  him.— Another  Conference 
with  the  Minister. — Final  Conference  with  the  Phraklang. — 
Answer  to  the  Letter  of  the  Governor- General,  and  Commer- 
cial Engagements         .....     213 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Obstacles  to  European  Trade  in  Siam. — Not  applicable  to  that 
of  the  Chinese. — Ordination  of  Siamese  Priests. — The  wild 
race  denominated  Ka. — A  Servant  belonging  to  the  Mission 
drowned. — Consecration  of  an  image  of  Gautama. — ^Son  of 
the  Minister  initiated  into  the  Priesthood.— Visit  from  a 
Portuguese  Christian. — Visit  to  the  Phraklang. — Visit  from 
a  French  Priest. — Anecdote  of  a  late  King  of  Siam. — Visit 
to  the  Prince  Krom-chiat.— Departure  from  Bangkok. — 
Land  in  dropping  down  the  River. — Colony  of  Peguans. — 
Mouth  of   the  River    and    its   neighbourhood   infested    by 


vi  CONTENTS. 

MosqiiitoB. — Ship  crosses  the  Bar  of  the  River. — Descrip- 
tion   of   it. — Arrival    at    the    Sichang    Islands. — Incidents 

there 268 

« 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  the  Sichang  Islands. — Description  of  them. — 
Crossing  the  Gulf  of  Siani.-*Samroi-yot«  or  the  ''Three 
Hundred  Peaks."*- Group  of  Islands  called  Pulo-panjang. — 
Mission  visits  Pulo-oondore. — Ruins  of  an  English  fieustory**— 
Pescription  of  Pulo»condore. — Cape  St.  James. — Arrival  in 
the  River  of  Saigun. — Intercourse  with  the  Chief  of  Kandjru, 
and  description  of  the  place. — Visit  to  Saigun.-<-Audience 
of  the  Governor.— Elephant  and  Tiger  fights, — Description 
of  Saigun  and  its  River. — Departure  from  Saigun  for  the 
Capital  .  .  .  .293 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Voyage  along  the  Coast  of  Cochin  China* — Account  of  its  Har- 
bours.— Arrival  in  Turan  Harbour. — Visit  from  the  Civil 
Mandarin  of  the  place. — Description  of  the  Town  of  Turan..— 
The  Mission  receives  a  Letter  and  Presents  from  tlie  Gover- 
nor of  Faifb. — Visits  made  to  the  villages  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Turan. — Invitation  to  the  Court.— Voyage  to  Hufe, 
the  Cochin  Chinese  Capital^  and  arrival  there   •  .    350 

CHAPTER  X. 

Visit  from  the  Intendant  of  the  Port. — ^The  Mission  lands,  and 
is  placed  in  a  state  of  surveillance. — ^Discusuon  respecting 
the  letter  from  the  Governor-General  to  the  King. — Mission 
jealously  watched  by  the  officers  of  Government. — Visit  to 
the  Mandarin  of  Elephants,  or  Foreign  Minister,  and  account 
of  the  discussion  which  took  place  with  him* — Mission  re- 


CONTENTS.  vii 

fused  an  audience  of  the  King. — ^Viait  to  the  fortifications 
of  Hue,  and  description  of  them.-^Visits  to  the  two  French 
Mandarins.— Posthnmous  honours  paid  to  ciyil  and  military 
officers  of  distinction. — N^otiationa  continued.— -Excursions 
in  the  environs  of  Hu6.— Royal  Mausoleum.— Temples  of 
Gautama. — Collation  sent  by  the  King  to  the  Mission.*— 
N^otiations. — Cochin  Chinese  Cookery. — Opinion  of  Chi- 
nese residents  respecting  Cochin  Chinese  Ooyemment.— 
French  Mission  to  Cochin  China. — Another  Visit  to  the  Fo- 
reign Minister^  and  discussions  which  ensued. — Commence- 
ment of  the  Monsoon  with  a  gale  of  wind  and  heavy  £edl  of 
raiuj  which  inundates  the  town  of  Hue. — Visit  from  the  two 
.  principal  assistants  of  the  Foreign  Minister,  and  discussion 
with  them. — Final  Visit  to  the  Foreign  Minister^  and  termi. 
nation  of  the  Negotiation.— Striking  circumstance,  in  illus- 
tration of  Cochin  Chinese  manners         •  •  .    371 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Departure  from  Hue. — Journey  by  land  to  Turan,  and  descrip- 
tion of  the  Route.—- Cochin  Chinese  Palanquin-bearers.— Ar- 
rival at  Turan. — Presents  for  the  Mission  received.— Wor- 
ship of  Buddha. — Visit  to  the  town  of  Faifo.^ — Marble  rocks 
and  grottoes. — ^Account  of  the  town  of  Faifo— Temples  of 
Buddha.*-Acoount  of  the  country  between  Turan  and  Faifo. 
— Typhoon. — Departure  from  Turan  for  Singapore.«-De- 
scription  of  Turan. — ^Land-birds  met  at  Sea.— Anambas 
Islands.— Arrival  at  Singapore;  departure  from  thence. — 
Arrival  at  Penang. — Island  of  Junk-Ceylon. — Arrival  at 
Calcutta.*— General  Reflections  on  our  political  relations  with 
Siam  and  Cochin  China  .  •  *  . 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VOL.  I. 

View  of  the  Town  and  Roads  of  Singapore  .  To  face  the  Title 
Map  of  Siam  and  Cochin  China  .  .1 

Malay  Man  and  Woman  .  .  .  ,81 

View  of  the  City  of  Bangkok       .  .  .121 

Siamese  Man  and  Woman  .  .  ,  .176 

Civil   and   Military  Cochin-Chinese  Mandarins   in   their 

dresses  of  ceremony  .....  404 
Ordinary  Mode  of  Conveyance  of  Persons  of  Rank   in 

Cochin  China  .....     454 

Cochin  Chinese  Priest  of  Fo,  Noviciate  and  Devotee        .     446 


VOL.  IL 


Eight  National  Portraits 

Siamese  and  Pali  Alphabets,  &c.  &c. 

Pegu  and  Lao  Alphabets,  &c.  &c. 

Plan  of  the  City  of  Bangkok 

Cochin  Chinese  Lady  and  Mandarin  of  the  Civil  Order 

King  of  Cochin  China,  and  Deputy  Governor  of  Kamboja   514 

Map  and  Plan  of  Singapore        ....     345 


38 

ib. 

214 

277 


WOOD  CUTS. 

VOL.  I. 

Front  of  the  Main  Building  of  the  King  of  Siam's  Palace     109 


White  Monkey  in  the  Elephant  Stables 

Siamese  Temple  . 

A  Prahchidi,  or  Sacred  Spire 

Spire  of  the  Temple  called  Wata-naga 

Cochin-Chinese  State  Boat 


159 

.160 

To  face  page  212 

213* 

.     349- 


VOL.  IL 


A  Siamese  Temple  at  Bangkok    .  .  To  face  page  I 

Gautama  represented  dead,  with  one  of  his  Disciples  wor- 
shipping him  .  .  .  .  .64 
Cochin-Chinese  Temple,  near  Saigun       .            .            .271 
Idol  and  Painting  in  a  temple  of  Gautama,  or  Fo,  at  Faifo 

To  face  page  301 
Cochin-Chinese  boats  in  the  Bay  of  Turan  .  .     302 

Vocabularies  »  at  the  end  of  the  second  volume.  ^ 


mmmfm. 


m 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  EMBASSY 


TO 


THE  COURTS  OF   SIAM 


AND 


COCHIN   CHINA. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Nature  of  the  Mission.— Departure  from  Calcatta.-^tslands 
Preparis  and  Naroondam. — Sayer  Islands. — Coast  of  Siam. 
— ^Arrival  at  Penang. — Invasion  of  the  neighboaring  Ma- 
layan principality  by  the  Siamese. — Incidents  at  Penang.— 
Description  of  the  Settlement. 

I  B£TURN£D  to  India  in  the  month  of  May, 
1881,  and  in  September  was  nominated  by  the 
late  Marquis  of  Hastings,  then  Governor-general 
of  India,  to  proceed  on  a  mission  to  the  Courts 
of  Siam  and  Cochin  China.  The  circumstances 
which  led  to  this  appointment  are  sufficiently  de*- 
tailed  in  my  instructions,  which  will  be  found 
in  the  Appendix  to  the  present  work.  My  com*- 
panions  were  Captain  Dangerfield  and  Lieutenant 
Rutherford,  of  the  Indian  army,  and  Mr.  Fin- 
layson,  of  His  Majesty's  Medical  Service.   Captain 

VOL.  I.  B 


\ 


S  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

Dangerfield  was  appointed  my  assistant,  and  to 
succeed  in  case  of  accident;  Mr.  Rutherford 
commatnded  our  small  esooirt  of  thirty  Sepoys; 
and  Mr.  Finlayson  was  attached  to  the  mission 
in  quality  of  medical  officer  and  naturalist.  I 
had  the  good  fortune  to  find  in  Captain  Dan- 
gerfield a  skilful  astronomer,  surveyor,  and  geo- 
logist ;  and  Mr.  Finlayson  with  zeal  and  talents 
had  made  highly  respectable  acquirements  in 
botany  and  zoology.  The  John  Adam,  an  In- 
dian-built ship  of  about  S80  tons  burthen,  was 
appointed  for  the  accommodation  of  the  mission. 

Haying  received  my  instructions,  and  being 
charged  with  letters  addressed  from  the  Gover- 
nor-general to  the  Kings  of  Siam  and  Cochin 
China,  accompanied  by  such  presents  as  are  re- 
quired by  the  usages  of  the  East,  we  embarked, 
on  the  21st  of  November,  1821,  and  dropped 
down  the  river  with  the  ebb-tide,  which  took  us 
as  far  as  the  Government  manufactory  of  gun- 
powder,  about  eight  miles  below  Calcutta,  car- 
rpng  us  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  left  bank 
of  the  river,  and  along  the  most  picturesque 
part  of  it ;  that  bend  of  the  Hoogly  which  Eu- 
ropeans call  Garden  Reach,  a  series  of  beautiful 
and  magnificent  country-houses  belonging  to  some 
of  the  principal  merchants  of  Calcutta. 

Nw.  28.-^There  being  no  wind  yesterday  to 
enable  us  to  stem  the  flood-tide,  we  could  only 
make  progress  during  the  ebbs,  and  from  the 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  9 

intricacy  of  the  navigation,  this  only  during  day- 
light This  morning  a  favourable  bi:eeze  sprung 
up  from  the  north-east,  which  enabled  us  to  stem 
the  flood-tide,  and  tve  successively  passed  Fultah 
and  the  James  and  Mary  Sand>  and  anchored  at 
Gulpee  for  the  night.  The  passage  of  the  James 
and  Mary  Sand,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Rupnarain  with  the  Hoogly,  is  the  most  dan- 
gerous part  of  the  navigation  of  the  river.  The 
bank  is  a  hard  sand,  and  the  channel  constantly 
changing.  In  running  down  we  had  met  the 
Forbes,  a  ship  of  600  tons,  which  had  struck 
upon  it,  and  was  consequently  obliged  to  return 
to  Calcutta  for  repair.  No  ship  which  draws 
above  fifteen  feet  when  loaded  can  navigate  the 
Granges  with  safety  and  eccmomy.  The  ships  of 
the  East  India  Company,  usually  of  the  burthen 
of  1000  and  1200  tons,  and  drawing  above 
twenty-two  feet  water,  are  totally  unfit  for  this 
purpose ;  they  take  in  their  cargo  100.  miles  from 
Calcutta,  and,  besides  this  inconvenience,  com- 
monly lose  many  of  their  crew  from  the  great 
insalubrity  of  the  stations  where  they  usually  lie. 
Nov.  84.— Calms  with  light  winds  not  ena- 
bling us  to  stem  the  flood-tides,  we  reached  to- 
day no  farther  than  the  land  which,  with  the 
north  end  of  Saugor  Island,  forms  Channel-creek, 
or  Lackams  Channel.  In  the  evening,  being 
dose  to  the  shore,  a  small  party  of  us  landed. 
The  country  farther   than   the  eye  can   see  is 

B  S 


4  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

here  covered  with  an  almost  impenetrable  totest 
of  low  wood,  the  trees  of  which  do  not  exceed 
eight  or  ten  feet  high.  The  timber  which  they 
afford  is  fit  only  for  firewood.  The  soil  is  en- 
tirely alluvial,  and  the  successive  depositions  of 
strata  are  distinctly  preceptible  on  the  shore. 
The  land  could  not  be  less  than  twelve  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea  or  river  at  high- 
water,  and  might  therefore  be  cultivated  with 
advantage.  The  crew  of  the  pilot-boat  whidi 
accompanied  us,  assured  us  that  the  place  abounds 
with  deer  and  tigers,  and  that  it  was  dangerous, 
on  account  of  the  latter,  even  to  attempt  to 
cut  a  little  firewood  withiii  a  few  yards  of  the 
shore.  We  had  not,  indeed,  penetrated  above 
a  few  yards  into  the  wood,  when  we  discover- 
ed in  the  soft  soil  many  traces  of  deer,  and 
those  of  one  tiger. 

Nov  25. — ^We  sailed  from  Culpee  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  evening  anchored  below 
Kadegree,  and  opposite  the  Island  of  Saugor. 
Three  years  ago,  a  plan  was  set  on  foot  to 
clear  this  island;  and  the  Government  of  Ben- 
gal, knowing 'that  its  culture,  on  the  part  of 
the  natives,  was  hopeless,  departed  from  its 
usual  policy,  and  made  extensive  grants  to  a 
sodety  of  English  gentlemen  and  others  at 
Calcutta,  who  subscribed  a  large  sum  towards 
the  purpose  of  clearing  and  bringing  it  into 
culture.     The  project  has  been   attended   with 


AMD  COCHIN  CHINA.  5 

but  veiy  partial  success,  chiefly  owing  to  na* 
tural  obstacles.  The  island  is  low,  being  litde 
better  than  a  sand  bank,  a  few  feet  above  high- 
water  mark.  The  soil  is  scanty  and  sterile,  and 
there  is  no  command  of  water  for  artificial  ir- 
rigation. In  the  first  attempts  at  clearing  it, 
the  nearest  lands  to  the  shore  were  chosen; 
but  so  little  coherence  was  there  in  the  soil, 
when  the  roots  of  the  trees  were  removed,  that 
on  more  than  one  occasion  the  high  tides,  which 
took  place  during  gales  of  wind  in  the  S.  W. 
monsoon,  swept  away  the  whole  cleared  land. 
When  it  is  considered  that  abundance  of  un- 
reclaimed land  of  the  finest  description  ex:i8ts 
in  almost  every  part  of  India,  the  capital  laid 
out  on  this  unprofitable  project  may  be  consi- 
dered as  little  better  than  a  sacrifice  to  the 
unwise  and  narrow-minded,  anti-colonial  policy 
of  the  East  India  Company. 

Nov.  28. — ^During  the  two  last  days  we  moved 
by  slow  degrees,  under  the  pilot's  charge,  over 
the  reefs  and  sands  which  obstruct  the  entrance 
into  the  Hoogly.  The  pilot  left  us  last  night 
in  nine  and  a  half  fathoms  water,  and  we  now 
proceeded  under  the  auspices  of  the  north-east 
monsoon,  having  a  six-knot  breeze,  serene  wea-^ 
ther,  and  a  cloudless  sky.  In  the  complicated 
and  difficult  navigation  of  the  Hoogly,  it  has 
taken  us  seven  days  to  sail  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles ;  which  is  the  distance  between  the 


6  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

town  of  Calcutta,  and  what  is  called  the  Reef 
Buoy,  the  extreme  Umit  of  the  dangers  of  the 
river;  With  the  assistance  of  a  steam-baat, 
ships  might  he  towed  down  in  two  days  without 
difficulty.  The  freshes  in  the  river,  which  con- 
tinue two  months,  and  during  which  the  ebb- 
tide is  sometimes  found  to  run  at  the  rate  of 
eight  miles  an  hour,  might  prove  an  obstacle 
to  their  employment  at  that  season ;  but,  at  all 
other  periods  of  the  year,  they  might  surdly 
be  used  to  advanti^,  whether  for  towing  vessels 
or  conveying  passengers.  Under  such  favour- 
able circumstances,  and  in  a  country  where  either 
wood  or  cods  may  be  had  for  fuel,  it  is  some 
reflection  upon  our  want  of  enterprise  in  India, 
that  steam-vessels  have  not  yet  beeii  established** 
In  quitting  or  approaching  the  Hoogly,  it  is 
impossible  not  to  be  struck  with  the  extraor- 
dinary difficulties  which  the  early  European 
navigators  had  to  contend  against,  in  navigating 
it,  before  the  establishment,  as  at  pres^it,  of 
an  intelligent  and  experienced,  although  most 
costly  dass  of  pilots.  Some  share  of  their  suc« 
cess  is  to  be  ascribed  to  the  convenient  size  of 
the  very  small   vessels   which  they  employed, 

*  The  first  steam-yesael  used  in  India,  waa  built  aboat  three 
years  after  this  passage  was  written.  There  are  at  present 
about  ten,  of  all  descriptions,  in  the  Hoogly — some  belonging  to 
the  Government,  and  others  used  for  oonveving  passengers,  or 
towing  ships  up  and  down. 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  7 

and  a  large  one  to  their  courage  and  enter- 
prise. The  reputation  of  the  country  to  which 
it  ^opened  a  road^  no  doubt  powerfully  prompted 
them  to  the  undertaking.  With  all  the  diffi- 
culties  and  dangers  of  the  Ganges,  the  Englidi, 
if  their  Indian  conquests-  be  any  advantage  to 
tiiem,  owe  almost  as  much  gratitude  to  it  as 
the  Hmdoos  themselves,  for  unquestionably  to 
it  they  are  indebted  for  their  Indian  empire. 
It  is  the  great  military  road  which,  enabled  us 
to  conquer  the  richest  provinces  oi  Hindustan^ 
the  acquisition  of  which  enabled  us  eventually 
to  conquer  and  maintain  the  rest  of  our  pos- 
sessions. 

Dec.  8. — During  the  last  four  days  we  pro- 
ceeded  on  our  voyage  without  any  occurrence 
worth  mentioning.  This  morning  at  daybreak 
the  Island  of  Freparis  appeared  in  sight,  and 
being  consid^^bly  to  windward,  we  bore  down 
up<Ni  it  with  the  intentibn  of  landing,  and  avail- 
ing ourselves  of  the  pppcartunity  that  offered  of 
gaining  some  knowledge  of  the  natural  history 
of  a  place  so  near  to  the  Indian  capital,  but  of 
which,  notwithstanding,  little  or  notliing  is 
known.  We  were^  however,  disappointed;  for 
the  north-east  wind  blew  so  strcmgly  upon  the 
eastern  shore,  the  only  safe  one  to  approach, 
that  we  could  not  venture  to  land.  We  came 
within  a  short  mile,  however,  of  two  small  is- 
lands lying  to  the  northern  extremity  of  the 


8  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

principal  one,  called  by  navigators  the  "  Cow 
and  Calf."  At  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve 
fathoms,  the  lead  brought  up  fragments  of  coral 
rock,  which  we  plainly  saw  under  the  ship's 
bottom,  with  some  sharks  swimming  over  them. 
We  skirted  the  eastern  shore  of  the  large  island 
itself,  the  highest  part  of  which  may  be  about 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
It.  is  entirely  covered  with  a  forest  of  consi- 
derable height,  leaving  only  a  narrow  beach  of 
white  sand,  having  a  few  ledges  of  rocks  here 
and  there  scattered  through  it.  The  Island  of 
Freparis  is  seven  miles  in  length  from  north  to 
south,  and  uninhabited  except  by  monkeys  and 
squirrels. 

The  western  side  and  southern  end  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  coral  reef,  which  in  several  parts 
appears  above  water,  and  upon  which  three  small 
islands  have  been  formed.  The  approaches  to 
the  Preparis  are  imperfectly  known  and  very 
dangerous,  and  have  occasioned  many  shipwrecks. 
In  the  year  1817,  the  Francis  and  Charlotte,  a 
transport,  bringing  part  of  his  Majesty's  78th 
Regiment  from  Java,  after  the  restoration  of 
the  Dutch  colonies,  stnick,  at  night,  on  the 
reefs  to  the  southern  end  of  the  Freparis,  and 
was  lost.  The  troops  were  conveyed  to  the 
main  island,  where  the  greater  part  of  them 
had  to  remain  feeding  on  a  little  biscuit  saved 
from  the  wreck,  with  some  shell-^h  picked  up 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  9 

on  the  shore,  and  devoured  at  night  by  mos- 
quitoes, until  relief  was  brought  to  them  from 
Calcutta. 

Dec.  4. — Last  night  we  passed  the  Island  of 
Ifarcondam,  visible  by  moonlight,  and  this  morn- 
ing had  a  fine  view  of  it  from  the  deck.  The 
island  rises  in  the  form  of  a  cone  abruptly  from 
the  sea,  and  is  of  small  extent :  it  bears  all  the 
exterior  forms  of  a  basaltic  formation,  and  its 
summit  even  exhibits  the  appearance  of  the  ex- 
hausted crater  of  a  volcano.  Barren  Island,  of 
similar  size  and  appearance,  lying  within  seventy 
miles  of  it,  has  a  volcano,  which  has  been  in 
a  state  of  activity  since  the  year  1791.  In 
ordinary  weather  Narcondam  is  visible,  as  we 
now  experienced,  at  fifty  miles  distance,  and 
in  dear  weather  at  seventy.  By  an  observa- 
tion, not  taken,  however,  under  very  favourable 
circumstances,  we  made  its  height  2589  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Dee.  7. — We  sailed  during  the  last  two  days 
with  delightful  weather  and  favourable  winds; 
and  early  this  morning  found  ourselves  (the 
coast  of  Siam,  visible  for  the  first  time  in  the 
distance,  on  our  left)  near  the  Sayer  Islands,  the 
most  northerly  of  which  is  in  latitude  8**  48' 
north,  and  in  longitude  97""  48'  east:  they  are 
six  in  number.  At  noon  one  party  landed  on 
the  largest  island,  usually  called  the  Great  Say- 
er, and  another  on  that  lying  immediately  west 


10  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

of  it.  The  coasts  of  the  whole  group  are  boM^ 
and  the  navigatimi  easy.  A  ship  of  large  size 
might  come  within  fifty  yards  of  the  Great 
Sayer,  without  danger.  We  found  the  two 
islands  which  we  visited,  to  consist  entirely  of 
granite, — ^presenting  an  appearance  of  irregular 
stratification, — of.  a  very  large  grain,  with  nar* 
row  veins  of  quartz  running  here  and  there 
through  it.  Immediately  over  the  rocks,  which 
are  washed  by  the  sea,  v^etation  c(»nmences; 
and  the  islands  are  covered  with  a  forest  of 
trees,  rather  undersized  if  compared  with  the 
magnificent  woods  of  the  great  Indian  Archi- 
pelago.  The  sea  which  surrounds  them  abounds 
in  fish,  and  on  the  rocks  are  found  a  rich 
supply  of  shells,  and  some  corals,  of  which  con- 
siderable collections  were  made.  A  few  straks, 
of  a  lead-blue  colour,  were  the  only  birds  we 
saw ;  and  the  only  inhabitant  of  the  forest  ap- 
peared to  be  the  large  bat  (FesperHlioJ,  of 
which  great  numbers  were  seen;  which  proves 
that  wild  fruits  abound,  as  these  constitute 
their  prbidpal  food.  ,  The  Sayer  Islands  are 
uninhabited,  and  deserve  to  be  so,  for  the 
granite  of  which  they,  consist  is  covered  with 
a  mould  so  thin,  that  it  would  not  suffice  for 
raising  a  sufficient  supply  of  the  plants  neces- 
sary to  the  subsistence  of  man.  These  islands 
are  the  last  of  the  chain  whidi  extends  along 
the  coast  of  Siaiii  for  eight  degrees,  and  which 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  11 

navigators  have  called  the  Mergui  or  Tennasse- 
rim  Archipelago.  They  are  also  the  last  of  the 
long  chaui.  which,  with  but  a  partial  interrup* 
tion,  the  delta  of  the  Irrawadi,  covers  the 
easton  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  BengaL  It  de- 
serves to  be  remarked)  that  a  similar  chain  of 
islands  extends  along  the  eastern  coast  of  the 
Gulf  of  Siam ;  while  the  western  coasts  of  both, 
but  especially  of  the  former,  have  comparative- 
ly few  such  islands  along  their  shores.  A 
similar  observation  may  be  made  in  regard  to 
harbours.  The  eastern  coast  of  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  abounds  with  them,  but  there  is  not 
one  on  the  western.  There  are  several  fine 
harbours  on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  Siamese 
Gulf,  but  scarcely  one  which  deserves  the  name 
on  the  western. 

Dec.  8. — During  the  night  we  steered  a 
course  to  bring  us  close  to  the  shore  of  the 
mainland  of  Siam ;  and  in  the  morning  found 
ourselves  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  it,  in 
the  latitude  of  S""  14'  N.,  and  within  five  miles 
of  the  narrow  straits  which  divide  Junk-Ceylon 
from  the  continent.  The  coast  is  here  bold, 
and  safe  to  approach.  The.  country  inland,  as 
far  as  we  could  see,  was  mountainous,  leaving 
along  the  coast  a  narrow  belt  of  two  or  three 
inUes  of  lower  land;  still  elevated,  however, 
perhaps  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  sea. 
Nothmg  was  to  be  seen,  at  first,  but  one  uni- 


12  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

versal  forest  of  stately  trees.  We  afterwards, 
however,  saw  one  neat  village  within  a  mile  of 
the  Papra  Strait.  On  the  shore  we  observed 
a  few  fishermen  drying  their  nets,  while  their 
canoes  lay  on  the  beach.  One  canoe  pushed 
off,  as  we  believed  with  the  intention  of  coming 
on  board;  but  in  this  we  were  disappointed, 
although  we  did  not  fail  to  endeavour  to  make 
our  wish  for  an  intercourse  intelligible  by  sig- 
nals. At  length  we  sent  a  boat  to  the  shore ; 
and  after  considerable  hesitation,  two  indivi- 
duals consented  to  come  on  board,  but  not 
until  one  of  our  men  was  left  behind  as  a  r 
hostage  for  their  safety.  This  extraordinary-^ 
timidity  arises  from  the  situation  in  which 
these  poor  people  are  placed.  They  live  on 
the  territory  disputed  between  the  hostile  Bur- 
mans  and  Siamese,  and  consequently  are  in  a 
state  of  perpetual  distrust  and  insecurity ;  while 
they  are  rarely  visited  by  European  shipping. 
Our  visitors  proved  to  be  a  Siamese  and  a 
Creole  Chinese  of  Siam,  who  had  so  much  of 
the  native  blood  of  the  country  in  him,  that 
in  complexion  and  features  he  was  no  longer 
distinguishable  as  a  Chinese,  and  could  only  be 
recognized  as  claiming  the  name  by  the  fa- 
shion in  which  he  wore  his  hair.  We  ad- 
dressed them  in  Malay,  but  they  understood 
but  a  few  words,  and  we  could  carry  on  no 
conversation  vidth  them.    The  coast  abounds  in 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  IS 

fishy  and  for  the  value  of  two  rupees  we  ob* 
tained  a  very  large  supply  of  an  excellent  de- 
acription.  As  it  fell  calm,  a  party  landed  at  ten 
o'docky  to  examine  more  nearly  the  appearance 
of  the  country.  The  beach  is  a  beautiful  white 
sandy  with  a  few  ledges  of  rocks  interspersed  at 
considerable  distances.  We  landed  on  one  of 
the  latter,  which  appeared  to  proceed  from  a 
point  of  land  elevated  above  the  surrounding 
country,  and  which  promised  a  favourable 
(opportunity  for  geological  examination.  We 
found  both  this  point,  and  every  other  part  of 
the  coast  which  we  examined,  to  consist  of  the 
same  large-grained  granite  which  composes  the 
Sayer  Islands,  perhaps  a  little  more  diversified 
by  the  occasional  appearance  of  gneiss,  and  of  a 
darker  and  smaller-grained  granite. 

On  coming  on  board  in  the  afternoon,  we 
made  sail,  still  keeping  dose  to  the  shore,  and 
soon  passed  the  western  opening  of  the  narrow 
strait  which  divides  Junk-Ceylon  from  the  con- 
tinent. Sandy  points  form  the  mouth  of  the 
strait  on  each  side,  which  is  not  more  than 
half  a  mile  broad.  It  was  low  water,  and  so 
shallow  is  it,  that  the  sea  was  breaking  over  a 
reef  which  crosses  it,  and  which,  at  all  times, 
renders  it  unnavigable  for  large  vessels  :  even 
boatSy  indeed,  can  pass  only  at  high-water.  A 
severe  squall  forced  us  to  keep  at  a  respectable 
distance  fix>m  the  coast  of  Junk-Ceylon,  but  still 


14  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

we  had  a  distinct  view  of  the  shore,-  and  even 
of  much  of  the  interior.  The  shore  is  bold  and 
precipitate,  and  the  coast  frequently  so  deeply 
indented,  as  to  give  to  many  of  the  headlands 
at  a  distance,  the  appearance  of  islands.  The 
aspect  of  the  country  presents  a  perpetual  succes- 
sion of  hiUs  or  mountsdns,  apparently  so  dose 
upon  each  other,  that  there  can  be  little  room 
for  extensive  valleys  capable  of  affording  room 
for  profitable  cultivation.  The  whole  appeared 
covered  with  an  immense  forest,  and  not  a  sin- 
gle habitation  or  a  single  patch  of  culture  was 
discernible.  A  view  of  the  east^n  or  sheltered 
side  of  the  island  would,  no  doubt,  have  pre- 
sented a  somewhat  more  favourable  aspect,  but 
it  is  sufficiently  known  that  the  island  is  but 
thinly  inhabited  and  poorly  cultivated. 

Dee.  9. — During  all  night  and  to-day,  we  have 
had  a  great  deal  of  rain  and  blowing  weather. 
This  prevented  us  from  landing,  as  we  intend- 
ed, on  Junk-Ceylon,  and  other  islands  which 
we  passed.  We  were  now  within  the  Straits 
of  Malacca,  and  the  limits  of  the  Malay  name 
and  navigation.  This  is  discovered  by  the  sud- 
den alteration  of  names  of  places,  always  signi- 
ficant in  the  Malay  language;  and  especially  by 
the  constant  occurrence  of  the  word  Pulao,  or 
Pulo,  meaning  an  island,  in  the  vernacular  lan- 
guage of  that  people.     In  the  course  of  the  day 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  15 

we  passed  Puk)  Raja,  the  Brothers,  and  Pulo 
Btttiing. 

Hee.  11.— In  the  morning  we  had  a  near 
^ew  of  Trutao,  Langkawi,  and  Lada,  large 
islands  whidi  ta*e  inhabited.  Langkawi  in  par<* 
ticular,  not  less  than  twenty-*fiv€  miles  long, 
contains  a  considerable  portion  of  the  popuku 
tion  of  the  Malay  state  of  Queda.  Fenang  was 
visible  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon,  and  at  ten 
o'clock  at  night  we  got  into  the  harbour.  This 
morning  we  landed,  and  our  whole  party  was 
reoeived  into  the  hospitable  and  elegant  man-* 
sion  of  my  friend  Mr.  Phillips,  the  Grovemor  of 
the  island.  Mr.  Phillips^s  residence  is  called  Suf* 
folk,  after  the  native  county  of  the  first  owner, 
Mr.  Francis  Light,  the  founder  of  the  settle^ 
ment.  In  the  time  of  this  gentleman,  the  ground 
was  litde  more  than  an  ordinary  pepper  garden, 
but  the  taste  of  Mr.  Phillips  has  rendered  it  the 
most  beautiful  spot  of  the  kind  in  India»  after 
Banrackpooie,  the  country  residence  of  the  Go- 
veiTior^general :  it  is^  in  short,  an  English  gen* 
tleman^s  mansion  and  park,  where  clove  and. 
nutmeg  trees  (in  full  bearing  during  our  visit) 
are  substituted  for  oaks,  elms,  and  ashes.  The 
grounds  contain  from  two  to  three  hundred 
spotted  deer. 

We  found  the  settlement  in  a  state  of  alarm^ 
consequent  upon  an  invasion  of  the  territory  of 


16  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

the  King  of  Queda  by  the  Raja  of  Ligor,  a 
dependent  prince  or  chief  of  Siam,   of  which 
Queda  is  a  vassal.      This  chieftwi,  a  few  days 
before,   had   suddenly   made  his    appearance  at 
Queda  in  the  night-time  with  an  overwhelming 
force.     A  trifling   scuffle  ensued   between    his 
people  and  the  Malays,  in  which  some  of  the 
principal  chiefs   of   the  latter  were  kiUed,  but 
the  greater  number  of  the  people  took  to  flight 
without  ofiering  the  least  resistance.     The  King, 
after  leaving  his  treasure  and  property,  of  which 
he    had  more   than  usually  faU  to  the  lot  of 
Malay  princes,  and  having  several  of    his    fa- 
mily made  prisoners,  took    refuge   at   Penan^ 
to  which  the  Siamese  chief  sent  an  insolent  and 
threatening  message  and  letter,  to  demand  him. 
In  this  letter  he  hinted  pretty  directly  at  the 
punishment  of  any  one  who  should  screen  the 
fugitive  prince.     The  terror  of  this  threat  alarm- 
ed   the  timidity  of  the  native  inhabitants,  and 
the  usual  supply  of  grain  and  other  necessaries, 
for  which  Penang  almost  entirely  depends  upon 
Queda,    being  interrupted,  the  settlement  was 
subjected  to  considerable  temporary   inconveni- 
ence. 

We  had  scarcely  landed,  when  we  were  met 
by  the  commander  and  the  pilot  of  a  Siamese 
ship,  thus  far  on  her  voyage  from  Calcutta  to 
Bungkok.  I  had  frequently  seen  these  two  men 
at  Calcutta,  and  availed  myself  of  my  acquaint- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  17 

anoe  with  them,  to  add  to  our  information. 
They  were  both,  especially  the  pilot,  shrewd 
and  well-informed  men,  and  the  details  they 
commmiicated  respecting  their  country,  supplied 
more  useful  and  practical  knowledge  than  all 
we  had  before  obtained  from  printed  sources. 
They  were  descendants  of  Mohammedan  settlers 
from  Arcot  on  the  Coromandel  coast,  and  in- 
herited the  religion  and  language  of  their 
cjountry.  They  told  us  that  they  had  quitted 
Calcutta  with  a  very  favourable  opinion  of  our 
nation;  and  they  stated,  that  they  had  already 
communicated  accounts  of  our  mission  to  the 
Raja  of  Ligor,  with  the  view  of  being  trans- 
mitted to  Siam. 

P^nangy  Dec*  12. — I  had  resided  three  years 
at  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  and  then  knew  the 
place  well,  but  I  had  not  seen  it  for  ten ;  and 
when  I  went  over  George  Town  and  the  culti- 
vated part  of  the  island  this  morning,  I  found 
the  whole  so  much  changed,  that  I  could  hardly 
recognize  it.  The  town,  which  had  been  once 
almost  entirely  burnt  down,  was  now  constructed 
of  more  solid  materials,  and  many  new  roads  had 
been  formed  through  the  country ;  which,  how- 
ever, presented  a  less  busy  and  active  scene  than 
in  former  times,  and  even  exhibited  some  marks 
of  decay,  which  I  am  told  are  since  more  evident. 

Dee.  18. — ^Accompanied  by  Captain  Danger- 
field  and  Mr.  Finlayson,  I  made,  this  morning, 

VOL.   I.  c 


18  EMBASSY    TO   SIAM 

an  excursion  to  the  falls  of  water  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  which  supply  the  flour-mills  of  I^we 
Ami,  an  old  and  enterprising  Chinese  inhabitant 
of  the  town.  The  bed  of  the  rivulet  which 
supplies  the  mills,  afforded  us  an  opportunity  of 
examining  the  rock,  which  was  throughout 
granite.  The  huge  blocks  of  stone  which  were 
on  the  surface,  were  of  red  granite  a  good  deal 
decomposed.  The  more  deep-seated  rock  was  a 
hard  grey  granite,  exhibiting  many  distinct  crys- 
tals of  quartz  and  mica. 

Dec.  17* — We  paid  this  morning  a  visit  to  Mr. 
Brown,  at  Glugar,  about  five  miles  from  George 
Town.  Mr.  Brown  is  the  greatest  proprietor  in 
the  island,  and  a  person  distinguished  for  his 
enterprise  and  intelligence.  He  raises  on  his 
own  estates,  yearly,  about  eight  thousand  picuk 
of  pepper,  or  more  than  a  million  of  pounds; 
worth,  at  the  present  time,  not  less  than  twenty 
thousand  pounds  sterling.  The  estate  of  Glu- 
gar is  of  a  poor  soil,  and  unfit  for  the  growth 
of  pepper.  Mr.  Brown  has  planted  it  with  nut- 
meg and  clove-trees,  which  are  in  full  bearing, 
and  have  a  very  thriving  appearance,  the  eflPect 
of  skilful  culture  and  of  great  care,  despite  of 
the  sterility  of  the  soil.  Although  it  was  not 
the  usual  season  of  the  mangostin,  Mr.  Brown 
produced  a  few  very  delicious  ones,  hi^ly  ac- 
ceptable to  such  of  our  party  as  had  never  tasted 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  19 

this  fine  fruit,  the  most  acceptable  to  the  Euro* 
pean  palate  of  all  tropical  ones. 

Dee.  22. — This  morning  we  ascended  the  Flag- 
staff  Hill,  the  height  of  which  is  2223  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Government  House  at  Suffolk, 
and  about  2800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  ascent  is  steep,  yet  not  abrupt  or  difficult. 
A  stranger  to  the  vegetation  of  warm  climates 
is  here  presented  with  a  very  favourable  view 
of  the  luxuriant  and  magnificent  spectacle  of 
a  tropical  forest.  The  greater  part  of  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island  consists  of  a  rapid  succession 
of  hills  and  narrow  valleys,  clothed  with  a  fo* 
rest  of  the  tallest  trees,  in  a  livery  of  perpe- 
tual green.  These  trees,  rising  often  to  the 
height  of  a  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  from  the 
close  pressure  of  the  forest,  are  as  straight  as  an 
arrow,  and  throw  out  no  branches  until  within 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet  of  their  tops.  Where  the 
scnl  is  dry,  the  exclusion  of  the  sun's  rays  pre- 
vents the  growth  of  grass  or  underwood,  with 
the  exception  of  rattans  and  the  gigantic  para- 
sites, which,  extending  fantastically  from  tree  to 
tree,  give  a  tropical  forest  so  singular  and  unex* 
p^cted  a  character.  This  scene,  however,  is  more 
splendid  than  useful.  The  timber  of  the  forest 
trees  is  generally  of  inferior  quality,  and  very 
little  of  it  is  applicable  to  useful  purposes.  In 
passing  through  these  woods,  the  paucity  of  ani- 

c  2 


20  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

mal  life  is  peculiarly  striking :  —  it  is  seldom 
that  those  of  Penang  are  disturbed,  except  by 
the  loud  shrill  noise  of  the  grasshopper,  or  the 
occasional  chattering  of  a  herd  of  monkeys. 

On  the  top  of  the  hill,  water  boils  at  207^  of 
Fahrenheit  At  1800  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  the  character  of  the  vegetation  begins  to 
change.  The  operation  of  forming  the  road  ex- 
poses the  external  part  of  the  structure  of  the 
mountain,  which  is  a  yellow-coloured  clay,  in- 
termixed with  gravel,  resulting  from  the  disin- 
tegrated granite,  of  which  the  island  seems  en- 
turely  composed.  The  granite  itself  is  here  and 
there  exposed  on  the  highest  parts  of  the  hill, 
and  appears  in  abundance  in  the  valleys. 

Dec.  24, — Last  night  two  messengers  arrived 
from  the  Raja  of  Ligor,  bearing  a  letter  to  my 
address.  They  waited  upon  us  this  morning, 
feigning  the  great  joy  of  their  master,  the  Go- 
vernor of  Ligor,  at  hearing  that  the  Governor- 
general  of  India  was  sending  an  envoy  to  Siam, 
They  disclaimed,  on  his  behalf,  all  hostile  or 
unfriendly  intentions  towards  us  in  the  invasion 
of  Queda.  As  ah  eam^st  of  the  Ligor  chiefs 
sincerity,  the  messengers  informed  us  that  he 
had  not  failed  to  punish  certain  of  his  follow- 
ers, who  had  presumed  to  enter  the  British 
territories  on  the  opposite  coast  in  a  hostile 
manner;  the  officer  who  commanded  having  re- 
ceived thirty  strokes  of  a  rattan,  and  each  of 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  21 

the  private  soldiers  five  a-piece«  In  respect  to 
the  offenders  in  question,  the  fact  was  this: — 
A  Siamese  detachment,  of  an  officer  and  thirty 
men/ had  crossed  the  river  which  forms  the 
boundary  between  the  Queda  and  British  ter- 
ritory, and,  with  or  without  authority,  com- 
menced  plundering  our  frontier  villages.  A 
native  sergeant,  with  twelve  sepoys,  was  sent 
in  pursuit,  and  took  prisoner  and  disarmed  the 
whole  Siamese  party  without  resistance.  They 
were  sent  back  to  the  chief  of  Ligor,  and  their 
conduct  disavowed.  The  appearance  of  the 
messengers  was  sufficiently  uncivilized  : — their 
dresses  were  scanty  in  amount,  and  not  of  the 
best  description  in  point  of  quality.  Above 
all,  their  bare  and  shaggy  heads  gave  them  a 
wild  and  unpromising  aspect.  Notwithstanding 
this,  Mong  Narrain,  the  principal,  was  a  man 
of  intelligence,  and  spoke  with  an  air  of  much 
confidence  and  apparent  frankness. 

Dec.  28. — Juragan  Soliman,  an  old  Malay 
trader,  came  to  call  upon  me.  He  had  tra- 
velled into  several  parts  of  the  interior  of  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  and  often  gone  across  it  to 
the  opposite  coast.  According  to  him,  from 
Trang,  on  the  western  coast,  to  Ligor  on  the 
eastern,  the  distance,  by  elephants,  is  but  three 
days*  journey ;  and  a  man  on  foot  can  travel 
despatch  in  two.  From  Queda  to  Sungora, 
the  nearest   Siamese   province   to  the    Malays, 


22  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

on  the  side  of  the  Gulf  of  Siam,  he  says 
that  merchandize  is  carried  on  elephants  in  five 
days.  This  last  route  is  so  safe  and  expeditious, 
that  a  great  deal  of  merchandize  is  sent  by  it; 
and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  native  vessels 
from  Siam,  to  send  back  half  their  returns  in 
this  direction,  as  well  for  expedition  as  to  di- 
vide the  risk.  The  state  of  Queda  is  divided 
from  Patani,  the  bordering  Malayan  principal- 
ity to  the  north-east,  by  a  chain  of  moun- 
tains, one  of  the  peaks  of  which,  called  J^Mh 
Bangsa^  is  very  lofty;  I  should  suppose,  from 
the  comparison  made  by  my  informer  with  other 
mountains,  not  less  than  6000  feet  high.  From 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Muda,  in  the  terri- 
tory of  Queda,  in  lat.  5^  40.  N.,  to  nearly  the 
foot  of  the  Patani  hills,  is  a  voyage  of  ninety- 
six  hours  in  boats,  by  a  very  winding  course. 
From  thence  four  hours*  journey  on  elephants 
carries  the  traveller  acToss  the  mountains  to 
KJroh,  in  the  Patani  territories,  where  there 
are  tin  mines.  These  mines  are  said  to  be 
rich,  but  unskilfully  worked.  The  Juragan, 
that  is  to  say,  the  trading  commander,  com- 
putes that  they  yield  at  present  1500  ba- 
hars,  of  three  Chinese  piculs  each,  annually, 
which  I  suspect  is  considerably  exaggerated. 
When  asked  what  manner  of  people  the  Pa- 
tanis  were,  he  replied  in  a  style  very  charac- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  23 

teristic  of  the  language  and  manner  of  the  Ma« 
lays  :  "  They  are  simple  and  uncultivated  men, 
and  you  may  hold  them  by  a  hair,  if  you  have 
only  the  discretion  not  to  pull  it  too  hard.** 

Hec.  29- — We  paid  a  second  visit  to  Mr. 
Brown  at  Glugan  He  brought  to  meet  us  an 
old  Chinese  inhabitant  of  Penang,  named  Che- 
wan,  one  of  the  few  survivors  of  the  original 
settlers  of  the  island.  Che-wan  left  his  native 
country,  the  province  of  Fo-kien,  at  three-and- 
twenty,  and  has  never  since  returned  to  it.  He 
is  now  at  the  age  of  sixty,  preparing  for  him- 
self a  splendid  tomb,  after  the  Chinese  fashion, 
cut  from  hewn  granite,  in  a  very  beautiful  and 
romantic  spot.  There  is  an  inscription  on  it  in 
Chinese  and  English;  and  this  simple  monu- 
ment will  last  for  ages,  and  after  many  a  re- 
volution of  those  ephemeral  structures  which 
Europeans  raise  in  this  country,  for  mere  com- 
fort or  utility.  Che- wan  in  conversation  is  lively, 
communicative,  and  sensible.  His  details  are 
characterized  by  a  degree  of  European  precision 
and  good  sense,  which  one  rarely  meets  with 
in  the  East,  except  among  his  countrymen.  He 
has  visited  many  parts  of  the  interior  of  the 
Malayan  peninsula,  and  several  provinces  of 
Siam,  as  well  as  the  capital  of  that  country. 
He  has  a  bad  opinion  of  the  court  of  Siam, 
and  thinks  the  government  inferior  even  to  that 


24  EMBilSSy    TO  SIAM 

of  Cochin  China,  which  he  has  also  visited ;  or 
as  he  expresses  it  in  the  Malay  language, 
**  There  is  less  compassion  for  the  people." 

Jan.  4;  1822, — We  took  leave  of  our  kind 
friends  at  Suffolk  this  morning,  and  re-em- 
barked to  pursue  our  voyage;  our  party  be- 
ing increased  by  the  addition  of  three  inter- 
preters. Two  of  these  spoke  and  wrote  the 
Siamese  and  Malay  languages,  through  the  last 
of  which  they  interpreted  to  us.  The  third 
was  a  Chinese,  who  spoke  both  English  and 
Malay  fluently:  he  was  to  be  our  only  me- 
dium of  communication  with  the  Cochin  Chi- 
nese, for  it  was  in  vain  to  look  for  an  inter- 
preter in  the  Anam  language  who  spoke  any 
dialect  understood  by  us.  <  The  government  of 
Penang,  conformably  to  the  instructions  received 
from  Bengal,  committed  to  us  the  conduct  of  a 
negociation  for  the  settlement  of  their  claim  of 
sovereignty  to  the  island,  and  for  the  adjustment 
of  the  disputes  between  Queda  and  Siam. 

I  shall  take  this  opportunity  of  giving  my 
reader  a  short  account  of  the  Island  of  Penang, 
or  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  a  place  of  some 
importance  in  the  commerce  of  the  East,  and  of 
which  there  are  no  recent  or  authentic  details 
before  the  public. 

Penang  is  about  sixteen  miles  in  length  from 
north  to  south,  and  from  seven  to  eight  in 
breadth,  lying  between  the  latitudes  of  5\  1&. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  25 

and  5^  SO'.  North.  By  far  the  greater  part  of 
the  island  is  mountainous,  rocky,  sterile,  and 
covered  with  a  forest  of  tall  trees.  A  portion 
of  the  south  and  of  the  eastern  parts  is  level, 
and-  these  alone  constitute  the  cultivated  and 
inhabited  quarter  of  the  island. .  The  highest 
hills  are  above  2000  feet  in  height,  and  on 
these  the  thermometer  is  about  ten  degrees  lower 
than  on  the  plain.  The  harbour,  which  was  the 
principal  inducement  to  its  occupation,  is  form- 
ed by  the  island,  with  the  mainland  two  miles 
distant.  The  whole  island,  like  the  countries  in 
its  neighbourhood,  is  one  mass  of  granite,  exhi- 
biting very  little  variety.  In  the  valleys,  traces 
of  alluvial  deposits  of  tin  are  found.  The  soil 
is  every  where  thin  and  scanty,  seldom  exceed- 
ing a  few  feet  in  depth,  and  often  not  many 
inches:  it  consists,  in  the  plains,  of  disinte- 
grated granite  washed  down  from  the  moun- 
tains, which,  in  a  few  favoured  spots,  where  the 
best  husbandry  is  conducted,  is  mixed  with  a 
little  vegetable  mould.  The  mountains,  from 
the  thin  soil  with  which  they  are  covered,  and 
the  impracticability  of  carrying  on  the  labours 
of  agriculture  on  their  steep  and  precipitate 
sides  and  ridges,  may  be  looked  upon  as  con- 
demned to  perpetual  sterility.  The  seasons  are 
irregular :  rain  is  frequent  throughout  the  year ; 
but  the  regular  wet  season  is  of  short  continue 
ance,  b^inning  with  September  and  ending  with 


26  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

November.  The  coldest  months  are  December 
and  January;  and  the  hottest,  Jime  and  July. 
In  rural  economy,  the  rainy  season  is  the  spring 
of  the  year  ;  and  January,  February,  and  March, 
constitute  autumn.  In  the  former  the  rice  crop 
is  sown,  and  in  the  latter  it  is  reaped.  But  the 
great  irregularity  of  the  seasons  is  exhibited  in 
the  progress  of  the  pepper  plant  towards  fruc- 
tification ;  for  the  same  individual  plant  blossoms 
twice  a-year,  namely,  in  April  and  in  October, 
and  affords  two  crops,  one  of  which  is  reaped 
in  January,  and  the  other  in  June. 

The  husbandry  of  Penang  is  favourably  dis- 
tinguished from  that  of  any  of  the  rest  of  our 
Eastern  possessions,  and,  when  we  consider  the 
barren  and  limited  nature  of  the  spot,  may  be 
quoted  as  a  remarkable  proof  of  the  ei&cacy, 
as  well  as  safety,  of  European  colonization.  This 
colonization  has  sprung  out  of  necessity  or  ac- 
cident. The  land  could  not  be  cultivated  with- 
out the  aid  of  European  enterprise  and  capital, 
and  therefore  Europeans  were  allowed,  as  a 
matter  of  mere  exigency,  to  become  proprietors 
of  the  soil.  The  landed  proprietors  of  Penang 
consist,  however,  of  persons  of  all  the  races 
which  inhabit  it ;  but  the  chief  proprietors,  and 
the  only  improvers,  are  the  two  most  industrious 
dasses — the  Europeans  and  the  Chinese.  The 
terms  of  the  grants  of  land  are  in  perpetuity, 
on  payment  of  a  trifling  yearly  quit-rent  to  the 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  2? 

State,  of  one-fifth  of  a  Spanish  dollar  for  an 
orlong,  a  measure  of  one  and  one-third  English 
acres*  Fifteen  hundred  and  seventy  of  these 
grants  have  been  given,  and  about  1S,000  acres 
of  the  area  of  the  island  are  in  a  state  of  cul- 
ture. 

.  Notwithstanding  these  favourable  tenures,  the 
natural  barrenness  of  the  island  and  the  limited 
extent  of  its  territory,  necessarily  exclude  from 
its  husbandry  aU  such  productions  as  demand 
either  peculiar  fertility  of  soil  or  an  extensive 
range  for  their  growth.  In  an  agricultural  point 
of  view,  it  may  be  strictly  said  to  be  unfit 
for  the  growth  of  rice  or  any  other  grain, — of 
the  sugar-cane,  cotton,  cofiee,  and  indigo — the 
grand  staples  of  tropical  husbandry ;  but»  in  the 
culture  of  articles  where  skill  can  compensate  for 
natural  defects,  the  agriculture  of  Prince  of 
Wales's  Island  is  much  superior  to  that  of  any 
other  country  of  Asia.  This  is  especially  seen  in 
the  culture  of  pepper,  and  in  the  production 
of  such  fruits  as  find  a  ready  market  from  the 
frequent  resort  of  strangers.  So  neat  and  perfect 
a  specimen  of  husbandry  nowhere  exists  in  the 
!East  as  the  pepper  culture  of  Penang, — the 
jcrint  effect  of  the  superintending  activity  of 
Europeans,  and  the  industrious  labour  of  the 
Chinese.  In  Penang,  the  average  of  all  pepper 
vines  gives  an  annual  product  of  two  catties, 
or  forty-two  and  two-thirds  of  an  ounce  avoirdu* 


S8  EMBASSY    TO   8IAM 

poise.  In  Malabar,  the  produce  of  a  vine  is  no 
more  than  seven  and  one-fifth  of  an  ounce,  and 
according  to  the  monopoly  culture  of  Bencoolen, 
but  six  and  a-half  ounces.  Agreeably  to  this 
estimate,  an  acre  planted  with  pepper  yields, 
at  Penang,  2040  lbs.,  in  Malabar,  844  lbs.,  and 
in  Bencoolen,  310  lbs.  In  the  expense  of  cul- 
ture, there  is,  to  be  sure,  a  wide  difference.  To 
clear  ah  acre  of  land  at  Penang,  to  supply  the 
young  plants,  and  to  plant  themselves,  and  their 
vegetating  props,  costs  a  hundred  and  twenty 
Spanish  dollars.  After  incurring  all  this  charge, 
with  loss  of  interest  of  capital  for  four  years, 
until  the  gardens  begin  to  bear,  they  are  let 
to  Chinese  cultivators  on  lease,  the  farmer  pay- 
ing one-third  of  the  net  produce  as  rent,  and 
restoring  the  pepper  gardens  in  good  order. 
It  is  evident  that  very  little  of  what  is  strictly 
rent  enters  into  the  elements  of  the  proprietor's 
revenue,  which  is  chiefly  composed  of  the  profits 
of  stock. 

The  fruits  cultivated  at  Penang,  in  the  greatest 
perfection  and  quantity,  are  the  orange,  the 
plantain,  and  the  pine-apple ;  all  excellent,  but 
the  two  last  better  than  I  have  any  where  else 
found  them.  Both  are  in  season  throughout  the 
year,  and  a  hundred  pines,  of  a  middling  size, 
are  procurable  in  the  market  for  a  Spanish  dol- 
lar. Those  weighing  six  and  seven  pounds  may 
be  had  at  the  rate  of  fifty  for  the  same  money. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  29 

The  mangusteen  and  durian,  the  two  most 
costly  fruits,  are  imported  from  the  neighbour- 
ing coasts  of  the  peninsula,  but  are  cheap  and 
abundant  in  their  season. 

The  fisheries  at  Penang  constitute  a  valuable 
property  among  a  population,  the  great  bulk  of 
which  consumes  no  other  animal  food,  and  a 
large  proportion  of  this.  The  Chinese  are  the 
fishmongers,  and  the  Malays  and  other  islanders 
are  the  fishermen.  The  modes  of  taking  fish 
.are  innumerable.  The  smaller  kinds  are  caught 
by  hand-nets,  a  few  with  the  line,  but  the 
greater  quantity  by  the  seine,  and,  above  all, 
by  stake-nets,  with  which  a  portion  of  the  shal- 
lowest part  of  the  harbour  is  covered.  The 
most  delicate,  and  one  of  the  most  abundant, 
of  the  fishes  taken  is  the  pomfret. 

When  the  English  took  possession  of  Pe- 
nang, in  1786,  it  was  wholly  uncultivated,  and 
had  no  other  inhabitants  than  a  few  occasional 
Malayan  fishermen.  It  now  contains*  about 
899OOO,  according  to  a  regular  yearly  census, 
taken  ever  since  1815.  This  population  con- 
sists of  the  following  motley  ingredients,  vi2. 
Indian  islanders,  Chinese,  natives  of  the  Coro- 

*  By  the  census  taken  in  1824^  the  population  of  the  island^ 
including  the  annexed  territory  on  the  opposite  coasts  waa  found 
to  have  increased  to  55^000>  chiefly  in  consequence  of  emigra- 
tion from  the  Malay  state  of  Queda,  produced  by  the  invasion 
of  the  Siamese. 


30  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

mandel  and  Malabar  coasts,  usually  called  Chou- 
liahs  by  Europeans,  natives  of  Bengal,  Burmans 
and  Siamese,  Europeans  and  their  descendants, 
with  a  few  Arabs,  Armenians,  Persees,  and  Airi* 
can  negroes,  to  which  is  added  a  floating  popu- 
lation of  about  1500.  The  Indian  islanders 
amount  to  15,456,  and  have  greatly  increased 
within  the  last  few  years,  in  consequence  oi 
the  anarchy  and  disorder  prevalent  in  some  of 
the  neighbouring  Malayan  states.  The  tribes  of 
which  they  chiefly  consist  are  l^falays,  Achi- 
nese,  Battaks,  and  Bugis.  They  find  employ- 
ment as  fishermen,  woodcutters,  constructors  of 
native  houses,  and  field-labourers.  We  seldom 
find  them  employed  as  artisans,  and  not  often 
as  traders.  The  Chinese  amount  to  8595,  and 
are  landowners,  field-labourers,  mechanics  of  al- 
most every  description,  shopkeepers,  and  ge- 
neral merchants.  They  are  all  from  the  two 
provinces  of  Canton  and  Fo*kien,  and  three- 
fourths  of  them  from  the  latter.  About  five- 
sixths  of  the  whole  number  are  unmarried  men, 
in  the  prime  of  life :  so  that,  in  fact,  the  Chi- 
nese population,  in  point  of  efiective  labour, 
may  be  estimated  as  equivalent  to  an  ordinary 
population  of  above  37»000,  and,  as  will  after- 
wards be  shown,  to  a  numerical  Malay  popu- 
lation of  more  than  80,000!  The  Chouliahs 
amount  to  6417 ;  they  are  employed  as  porters, 
field-labourers,  as  clerks    and   police-ofiicers,  as 


AND   COCHIN   CHtNA.  SI 

shopkeepers  and  as  merchants,  and,  occasionally, 
as  mechanics.  The  natives  of  Bengal  amount 
to  4624,  and  form  a  far  less  valuable  part  of 
the  population  than  the  two  last  classes.  About 
1700  consist  of  military  and  camp  followers, 
about  ISOO  are  convicts,  and  the  remainder  set- 
tlers, employed  as  labourers,  domestic  servants, 
and  shopkeepers.  The  rate  of  wages  paid  to  the 
difierent  classes,  when  engaged  in  similar  la* 
bour,  affords  a  very  striking  picture  of  their 
relative  skiU,  industry,  and  physical  strength — 
in  a  word,  perhaps  of  their  relative  state  of 
civilization.  A  Malay  field-labourer  works  only 
six  and  twenty  days  in  the  month,  and  receives 
but  two  dollars  and  a-half  as  wages;  a  Chou- 
liah  works  twenty-eight  days,  and  receives  four 
doUars;  and  a  Chinese  works  thirty  days,  and 
receives  six  dollars.  The  labour  of  a  Chinese, 
therefore,  to  himself  and  the  public  is  worth 
fifty  per  cent,  more  than  that  of  a  Chouliah ; 
the  Chouliah's,  seventy-five  per  cent,  more  than 
that  of  a  Malay ;  and  the  Chinese  no  less  than 
one  hundred  and  twenty  per  c«it.  beyond  the 
latter.  When  skiU  is  implied  in  the  labour  to 
be  performed,  the  disparity  is  still  more  re- 
markable. A  Chinese  carpenter  at  Penang  re- 
ceives fifteei  dollars  ar-month,  a  Persee  also  fif- 
teen, a  Chouliah  eight,  and  a  Malay  six.  I  have 
little  doubt  but  a  scale  might  be  constructed 
upon  this  principle,  which  would  exhibit  a  very 


32  £MBA8&\r   TO  SiAM 

just  estimate  of  the  comparative  state  of  civi- 
lization among  nations,  or,  which  is  the  same 
thing,  of  the  respective  merits  of  their  different 
social  institutions. 

Notwithstanding  the  deaths  by  the  cholera 
morbus,  which  carried  off  1131  persons,  or  near 
one  thirty-second  part  of  the  inhabitants,  the 
population  of  Penang  has  increased  since  1815, 
the  first  year  in  which  an  accurate  census  was 
made,  by  5243.  The  cholera  first  made  its 
appearance  at  Penang  in  October,  1819>  in  the 
midst  of  the  rainy  season,  and  disappeared  in 
the  end  of  February,— thus  continuing  tor  a 
period  of  four  months.  It  chiefly  raged  during 
the  first,  second,  third,  and  fourth  weeks,  and 
in  the  fifth  began  sensibly  to  diminish.  It  re- 
appeared in  the  beginning  of  May,  1821,  in  a 
season  perfectly  the  reverse,  and  continued  for 
two  months,  with  a  character  of  far  less  viru- 
lence, however,  than  on  the  first  occasion.  The 
weak,  the  ill-fed,  and  the  ill-lodged,  were  as 
usual  the  principal  victims.  The  natives  of  the 
continent  of  India,  evidently  the  weakest  of  the 
inhabitants  in  point  of  physical  frame,  lost  in 
the  first  attack  between  a  fourteenth  and  a 
fifteenth  part  of  their  whole  numbers;  the 
Malays  and  other  islanders,  certainly  ill-fed  and 
lodged,  but  with  frames  more  vigorous  and  better 
suited  to  the  climate,  lost  but  one  forty*secdnd 
of  their  number;   the   Chinese,  well-fed,  well- 


AND  COCHIN  CHIXA.      <  S3 

lodged,  with  robust'  frames,  lost  but  one  one- 
hundred-and-thirteenth  part  of  their  numbers; 
and,  lastly,  the  mortality  among  Europeans  and 
their  immediate  descendants,  amounted  to  no 
more  than  one  in  two  hundred.  The  morta- 
lity was  incomparably  greatest  in  marshy  and 
swampy  situations;  and  the  deaths  most  fre- 
quent after  a  rainy  night.  The  mortality  in 
the  town  was  five  and  two-thirds  in  a  hundred, 
and  in  the  country  but  one  and  one-third. 

Penang  is  supplied  with  rice  from  Bengal, 
from  Achin ;  but,  above  all,  from  the  territo- 
ries of  the  King  of  Queda.  The  Achin  rice  is 
of  VCTy  inferior  quality;  but  the  Bengal  and 
Queda  bring  nearly  the  same  price  in  the  Pe- 
nang market.  It  may  be  considered  about  twen- 
ty-five per  cent,  dearer  than  at  Calcutta,  and 
above  thirty-five  per  cent,  dearer  than  at  Queda. 
The  whole,  under  proper  arrangements,  ought 
to  come  from  the  latter  country  ;  but  the  Prince 
of  Queda,  in  contravention  of  an  existing  treaty, 
4nd  contrary  to  good  policy,  charges  a  duty 
of  twenty  per  cent,  on  all  the  nee  exported 
to  Penang;  and  contrives,  by  arbitrary  regu- 
lations, to  restrict  the  production  to  certain 
districts  in  which  the  impost  cannot  be  evaded, 
while  the  trade  is  in  the  hands  of  petty  dealers, 
.  who  are  incapable  of  conducting  it  with  skill  and 
economy.  The  daily  consumption  of  rice  in 
Penang,  excluding  the  military  population,  about 

VOL.   I.  D 


S4  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

one  thousand  seven  hundred^  is  32,000  pounds, 
which  gives  a  consumption  for  each  individual 
of  seventeen-twentieths  of  a  pound.  There 
should  be  deducted  from  this  calculation  the 
small  portion  of  wheat  used  jby  a  few  oi  the 
inhalntants,  and  the  rice  consumed  in  the  dis- 
tillery of  arrack  and  by  cattle,  which  is,  how- 
ever, inconsiderable.  Perhaps  three^uarters  of 
a  pound  a^y  will  be  very  near  the  real  con- 
sumption per  head.  I  am  thus  particular  in 
giving  this  statement,  because  nowhere  else  is 
there  afforded  an  opportunity  of  ascertaining 
a  fact  of  this  nature,  with  so  mudi  predsion. 

The  history  of  this  little  estaUishment  is  very 
shortly  told.  After  the  war  which  ended  in 
the  peace  of  1783,  and  during  which  we  had 
had  to  struggle  for  naval  superiority  with  the 
French,  the  want  of  a  good  harbour  in  the  Bay 
of  Bengal,  as  a  resort  for  our  ships  of  war, 
became  evident;  and  Penang,  after  other  abor- 
tive and  injudicious  attempts  had  been  made, 
was  at  length  fixed  upon,  under  the  admi- 
nistration of  Sir  John  Macpherson.  The  per- 
son who  recommended  it  to  the  attention  of 
the  Government  of  India,  was  a  Mr.  Francis 
Light,  who  had  traded  and  resided  for  a  niun- 
ber  of  years  at  Siam  and  Quedi^  and  who  had 
a  title  of  nobility  from  the  former  country. 
The  settlement  was  formed  in  the  year  1786, 
and  this  gentleman  appointed  to  the  charge  of 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  85 

it»  under  the  title  of  Superintendant     There 
18   no    foundation  whatever   for  the  idle  stoiy 
which  has  gained  currency,  of  Mr.  Light's  hav- 
ing  received  Penang  as  a  dowry  with  a  daughter 
of  the  King  of  Queda.     It  was  made  over  to 
the    East  India  Ccxnpany,   in  consideration   of 
a  yearly  payment  of  6000  Spanish  dollars,   to 
compensate  for  any  loss  of  revenue  which  might 
arise  to  this  petty  prince  from  its  occupation. 
It  soon  rose  to  considerable  prosperity;  and  in 
the   year  1791,  five  years  after  its  occupation, 
we   were   already   at  war  with  the  Prince  of 
Queda  on  account  of  it.     In  the  year  1800  we 
received  an  accession  of  territory  by  a  cession 
of  waste  and  uninhabited  land  on  the  opposite 
shore,  three  and  twenty  miles  along  the  coast, 
and  three   miles   inland,    which    now    contains 
near  €000  |inhabitants.    The    place  still    conti- 
nued to  prosper,  to  increase  in  wealth  and  po- 
pulation, and  to  prove  of  much  utility  to  the 
gaieral  interests  of  Indian  commerce.      In   the 
year  1805,  however,  this  utility  was  strangely 
exaggerated,  and  an  extensive  plan  formed  for 
converting  it  mto  a  grand  naval  depdt  and  dock- 
yard,   though  neither  the  island  nor    its  vici- 
nity  produced  a  stick  of  timber  fit  for  ship- 
building.     The    authorities   at   home    thought 
themselves  warranted,  on  some  vague  conception 
of  its  merits,  to  create  it  into  a  separate  Pre- 
sidency, and  to  load  it  with  a  burthensome  and 

D  2 


36  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM. 

expensive  civil  establishment.  On  a  reduced 
scale,  the  civil  establishment  even  now  amounts 
to  the  enormous  sum  of  five  and  Jifly  thcu- 
sand  pounds  sterling  a-year!  and  the  military 
charge,  which  cannot  be  so  correctly  estimated, 
is  certainly  not  under  thirty  thausandj — ^making 
an  aggregate  expenditure  of  eighty  five  thousand 
pounds  sterling  a-year  /* 

The  real  utility  of  Penang  consists  in  its 
being  a  place  of  convenient  resort  for  both  our 
military  and  commercial  navy,  espedally  in  time 
of  war ;  but,  above  all,  in  its  constituting  a  de- 
p6t,  or  emporium,  at  which  is  concentrated,  for 
the  convenience  of  the  distant  and  general  tra- 
der, the  scattered  traffic  of  numerous  petty  and 
barbarous  tribes,  separately  trifling;  but  when 
thus  united,  of  real  importance.  In  none  of 
these  views,  however,  was  it  probably  the  most 
eligible  situation  which  might  have  been  selected. 
In  passing  through  the  Straits  of  Malacca  from 
the  west,  it  is  a  good  deal  out  of  the  direct  track, 
and  the  time  wasted  in  visiting  it  is  consider- 
ably increased  by  some  difficulties  in  entmng 
and  quitting  the  harbour.  The  Island  of  Junk- 
Ceylon  would,  as  a  naval  station,  have  been 
greatly  preferable ;  and  for  commercial  purposes, 
Singapore  is  incomparably  superior.     Junk-Cey- 

*  The  settlements  of  Singapoor  and  Malacca  Have  been  re- 
cently annexed  to  Penang,  and  an  enormous  increase  made  to 
the  ciyil  and  military  establishments  wholly  uncalled  for. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  -37 

Ion  is,  however,  not  likely  to  be  a  competitor ; 
and  Penang,  although  it  will  lose,  by  means  of 
l^gapore,  the  more  valuable  native  commerce 
that  comes  from  the  East,  will  preserve,  from 
its  situation,  the  trade  of  its  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood,  which  will  embrace  the  greater  por- 
tion  of  the  pepper  trade,  the  trade  in  Areca 
nut,  and  a  very  considerable  share  of  that  in 
tin.  A  respectable  opinion  will  be  formed  of  the 
utility  of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island  as  an  empo- 
rium, when  it  is  stated  that  the  value  of  its  ex- 
ports and  imports  in  1820  amounted  to  4,808,688 
Spanish  dollars.*  ' 

The  whole  revenue  afforded  by  Prince  of 
Wales's  Island  amounts  to  about  two  hundred 
thousand  Spanish  dollars,  or  very  little  more 
than  one  half  the  expenditure,  Financial  re« 
sources  so  respectable,  however,  ought  to  be 
adequate  to  the  maintenance  of  an  establish- 
ment  on  a  plan  still  sufficiently  liberal,  and 
infinitely  better  suited  to  the  purposes  of  good 
government  than  the  present  cumbrous  and  bur- 
thensome  one.      *  - 

The  sources  from  which  the  Penang  revenue 
is  derived  are — duties  upon  the  trade ;  and  ex- 
cise duties,  in  the  form  of  licences  or  monopo- 
lies,  with  a  variety  of  minor  items,  such  as  quit- 

'  *  In  18S4-25y   the  exports  and  imports  had  increased  to 
5,265,902  Spanish  dollars. 


38  EMBASSY   TO    SIAM 

rents,  &c.  The  imposts  upon  trade  amount  to 
about  90,000  dollars,  and  the  excise  duties  to 
about  96,000.  In  a  port,  the  great  utiMty  of 
which  consists  in  the  facilities  which  it  should 
afford  to  the  common  trade  of  the  nation,  and 
the  commerce  of  which  is  but  a  mere  transit 
trade,  no  duties  whatever  ought  to  be  levied 
upon  merchandize,  because,  however  trifling 
their  amount,  the  very  act  of  subjecting  the 
petty  cargoes  of  the  ignorant  native  traders  to 
the  examination  and  control  of  the  officers  of 
customs  is,  from  the  vexation  necessarily  attend- 
ing it,  a  serious  obstacle  to  their  resort  A 
trifling  duty  upon  tonnage,  if  any  duty  at  all 
be  worth  levying,  would  be  less  easily  evaded, 
more  easily  and  cheaply  levied,  and  in  all  proba- 
bility equally  productive.* 

The  excise  duties  are  levied  upon  the  eon- 
sumption  of  opium,  spirits,  hemp  used  as  an  in- 
toxicating drug,  betel  and  pepper  leaves,  and 
pork.  The  monopoly  of  the  vend  of  each  of 
these  is  sold  to  a  farmer  by  pubKc  sale  from 
year  to  year.     Some  of  these  objects  of  taxation 

*  The  Ciutom-House  duties  have  recently  been  aboliahed  at 
Fenang,  but  the  formalities  somewhat  unreasonably  kept  up. 
The  abolition  of  this  impost  arose  out  of  an  attempt  of  the 
local  Government  to  levy  duties  on  the  trade  of  Singapoor  and 

Malacca.      The  subject  was  brought  forward  in  Parliament 

the  Home  Authorities  interfered^  and  the  imposition  of  duties 
at  all  the  three  settlements  was  judiciously  piohibited. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  99 

are  themsdves  very  injudiciously  selected.  The 
tax  on  pork  can  be  no  better  than  a  capitation 
tax  on  the  Chinese,  in  a  situation  where  the  bulk 
of  the  rest  of  the  population  is  Mohammedan. 
The  tax  on  betel-leaf,  which,  besides  being  ex- 
tremdy  unproductive,  is  one  which  falls  pecu- 
liarly heavy  upon  the  poorest  class  of  the  popu- 
lation, and  exempts  many  of  the  rich.  The 
most  judidous  and  suitable  subjects  of  taxation 
are  opium,  spirits,  and  hemp  used  as  an  intoxi- 
cating drug.  The  great  consumers  of  opium 
are  the  Chinese  and  the  Malays,  and  to  a  smaU- 
er  extent  the  Siamese,  Burmans,  Chouliahs,  and 
Bengallis.  The  regular  and  constant  consumers 
of  arrack,  or  native  spirits,  are  the  Chinese,  but 
they  seldom  or  never  drink  to  the  extent  of 
inebriety.  The  native  Christians,  the  Chouliahs, 
and  the  BengaUis,  drink  irregularly,  but  when 
they  do,  always  to  excess.  The  Burmans  and 
Siamese  are  looked  upon  as  hard  drinkers.  The 
Malays  are  extremely  temperate. 

In  former  times  a  tax  was  levied  on  gamb- 
ling, more  productive  than  all  the  rest  put  to- 
gether; but  on  the  instituticm  of  the  Court  of 
Justice,  it  was  presented  by  the  Grand  Jury  as 
a  nuisance,  and  abolished.  This  was,  perhaps, 
being  too  fastidious.  The  Chinese,  the  Malays, 
native  Christians,  Burmans,  and  Siamese,  are  vio- 
lently, and  without  a  revolution  in  their  man- 
ners, not  certainly  to  be  brought  about  by  mere 


40  EMBASSY   TO   SIAJtf 

municipal  regulation,  incurably  addicted  to  gamb> 
ling.  The  Chinese  especially,  habitually  repair 
to  the  gaming-table  after  a  day  of  severe  toil. 
It  would,  perhaps,  have  been  better  to  have  re- 
gulated and  controlled  this  propensity,  than  vain- 
ly to  have  attempted  to  eradicate  it.  The  con- 
sequence of  attempting  the  latter  has  been,  that 
gaming  still  goes*  on  clandestinely — heavy  fines 
are  levied  by  ,  the  police,  and  its  officers  are 
afforded  a  pretext  for  vexatious  interference  in 
the  private  concerns  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  industry,  activity,  and  energy  of  the  popu- 
lation of  Penang,  in  comparison  to  that  of  other 
Asiatic  countries,  is  exemplified  in  its  capacity 
to  pay  taxes.  Excluding  the  military  and  con- 
victs, amounting  together  to  above  3000,  and 
who  scarcely  in  any  respect  contribute  to  the 
finances,  the  population  of  Fenang  pay,  exdu- 
sive  of  custom-house  duties,  112,759  dollars, 
which  exhibits  a  rate  of  taxation  of  three  dol- 
lars, thirteen  cents,  per  head.* 

*  The  inhabitants  of  our  territorial  dominions  on  the  Con- 
tinent, Custom-house  duties  included,  pay  only  five  shillings 
per  head,  or  about  a  third  part  of  the  amount  stated  in  the 
text>  yet  they  are  the  most  heavily  taxed  of  the  two.-  The 
annual  revenue  of  our  Continental  dominions  is  about  22,000,000 
sterling.  Were  our  subjects  there  as  well  governed  or  as  indus- 
trious as  even  the  inhabitants  of  Penang,  the  revenue  ought 
to  be  6^000,000,  and  the  people  less  oppressed ! 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  41 


CHAPTER  II. 

Departure  from  Penang. — Description  of  the  Principality  of 
Qneda. — Description  of  the  Dinding  Islands. — ^Account  of 
Perak. — Arrival  at  Malacca — ^Incidents  there. —  Descrip- 
tion of  the  Place. — Visit  to  the  Carimon  Islands.-^Arrival 
at  Singapore. — Incidents  there  .^Ancient  settlement  of  the 
Malays. — Chinese  Navigation. — ^Account  of  the  race  of  Ma- 
lays called  Onrang-laat. 

Jan.  5. — We  went  out  of  the  harbour  of  Pe- 
nang by  the  Southern  channel,  through  which 
ships  drawing  no  more  than  eighteen  feet  may 
always  pass  without  risk,  and  thus  save  a  day 
or  two  in  their  route  to  the  Eastward.  In 
passing  out  we  landed  upon  the  little  island 
of  J^ijak,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  and 
separated  from  Penang  by  a  deep  and  narrow 
channel.  We  found  it  to  consist,  like  other 
places  which  we  had  visited  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, of  the  usual  grey  granite.  It  was  at 
this  place  that  the  construction  of  naval  docks 
was  contemplated;  but  neither  here,  nor  any 
where  else  in  the  vicinity  of  Penang,  is  there 


43  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

a  sufficient  rise   and   fall  of  the  tide,   or  any 
other  peculiar  advantage  f(»r  such  a  purpose. 

Jan.  7* — During  the  three  last  days  our  pro- 
gress had  been  impeded  by  calms,  and  light  or 
unfair  breezes,  a  very  usual  occurrence  in  these 
places.  To-day  we  passed  the  southern  limits 
of  the  Malay  state  of  Queda.  The  principality 
of  Queda,  of  which  a  rapid  sketch  will  not  here 
be  out  of  place,  is  about  one  hundred  and  ten 
geographical  miles  m  length,  from  north  to  south. 
Its  breadth  is  unequal,  and  every  where  incon- 
siderable; for  the  utmost  width  of  this  por- 
tion of  the  peninsula  itself  is  but  one  hundred 
and  thirty  miles ;  and  this  it  shares  every  where 
with  Fatani,  a  chain  of  high  mountains  running 
north  and  south,  dividing  its  breadth  between 
them.  The  boundary  to  the  north,  between 
Queda  and  Siam,  is  Onggu,  in  latitude  6^  50', 
and  that  between  it  and  Ferak  Eurao,  about 
the  latitude  of  5".  Besides  the  territory  on  the 
main,  several  large  islands  belong  to  this  state. 
The  principal  of  these  is  Liingkawi,  which  is 
twenty-five  miles  long,  and  which  has  a  cooisi- 
derable  share  of  culture  and  population.  Trutao, 
the  next  in  size,  is  fifteen  miles  in  length,  and 
has  but  few  inhabitants.  The  character  of  this 
territory  in  general  is,  that  of  being  extremdy 
woody,  marshy,  and  mountainous.  From  L#^ng- 
gu  to  Kurao,  inclusive— for  both  these  give 
names  to  rivers— there  are  counted  not  less  than 


AK]>  COCHIN  CHINA.  43 

six-ancUthirty  streams.  Six  of  these  are  of  very 
considenble  size,  and  might  be  useful  both  to 
commerce  and  agriculture.  In  the  range  of 
hills  in  the  interior,  there  are  many  mountains 
of  a  great  height;  and  JSxai,  a  detached  one 
near  the  western  coast,  is  supposed  to  be  six 
thousand  feet  high.  Although  the  country  is 
little  cultivated,  it  does  not  seem  to  be  desti- 
tute of  fertility ;  and  its  capacity  of  production 
is  satisfactorily  shown  in  its  power  of  supply- 
ing the  principal  consumption  of  Fenang,  now 
possessed  of  a  population  nearly  equalling  its 
own.  The  country  is  supposed  to  contain  from 
40  to  50,000  inhabitants,  divided,  according  to 
ancient  custom,  into  one  hundred  and  'five  petty 
districts,  each  of  forty-four  families.  By  ano- 
ther old  institution,  the  country  was  classified 
and  sub-divided  into  petty  divisions,  each  of 
twenty-four  houses.*  If  we  can  rely  upon  the 
information  of  Commodore  Beaulieu,  who  visit- 
ed this  country  in  1680,  it  must  have  contain- 
ed, seven  years  before  his  visit,  a  popidation  of 
60,000  souls ;  for  he  tells  us  that  an  epidemic 
which  raged  about  that  time,  carried  off  40,000, 
or  two-thirds  of  the  whole  number. 

The  indigenous  inhabitants  of  the  territory  of 
Queda,  consist  of  four  classes ;  namely,  Malays, 

*  Galled  t&ngga^  or  stain;  erery  direUing-hoiise  having  a 
stair  to  it« 


44  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

Samsams,  Siamese,  and  S&mangs ;  but  chiefly  of 
the  two  former,  among  whom  the  iseoond  are 
said  to  be  the  most  numerous.  By  Samsams  are 
meant  people  of  the  Siamese  race,  who  have 
adopted  the  Mohammedan  religion,  and  who 
speak  a  language  which  is  a  mixed  jargon  of 
the  languages  of  the  two  people;  a  matter 
which,  in  the  opinion  of  the  latter,  brings  some 
reproach  with  it.  The  following  is  a  specimen. 
**  Saya  ha  pai  naik  keh  bun  gunung."  **  I 
want  to  ascend  the  mountain  ;"  in  which  the 
first  word  is  Malay,  the  two  next  Siamese,  the 
fourth  Malay,  the  fifth  and  sixth  Siamese,  and 
the  seventh  or  last  Malay  again.         * 

The  Siimang  are  the  same  Negro  race  found 
from  the  Andamans  to  New  Guinea.  They  are 
here  distinguished  into  two  races,  the  S^mang  and 
Bila;  the  latter  holding  no  intercourse  what- 
ever with  the  inhabitants  of  the  plains,  but  the 
forrhei'  frequenting  the  villages,  and  carrying  on 
some  traffic  with  the  more  civilized  inhabitants. 
Neither  have  any  fixed  habitation,  and  roaming 
through  the  woods,  exist  chiefly  on  the  produce 
of  their  hunting,  feeding  indiscriminately  upon 
every  description  of  animal,  whether  quadruped 
or  reptile.  They  appear  to  be  a  timid  and  harm- 
less race. 

The  revenue  of  the  petty  chief  of  Queda 
amounted  to  about  42,000  Spanish  dollars  a- 
year.      The  country,   from  the  earliest    know- 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  45 

ledge  of  Europeans,  has  been  a  tributary  or  vas- 
sal state  of  Siam;  and,  besides  contributing  in 
war  to  the  assistance  of  the  paramount  state, 
in  men,  arms,  and  provisions,  by  immemorial 
usage,  the  King  of  Queda  sends  to  Siam,  in 
common  with  other  Malayan  princes,  a  triennial 
token  of  submission,  in  the  form  of  a  little  tree 
of  gold,  which  hence  comes  to  be  applied  by 
the  Malays  of  these  parts  to  any  tribute  what- 
ever. About  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  Queda  was  conquered  by  Achin,  which 
held  it  for  some  years  in  a  state  of  vassalage. 

Jan.  9. — Yesterday  morning  we  were  in  sight 
of  the  islands  usually  called  in  the  maritime 
charts  the  Bindings,  (correctly  Fangkur,  for 
Dinding  is  the  name  of  a  place  on  the  opposite 
main,)  and  the  group  of  islets  farther  south, 
called  by  the  Malays,  Fulo  Sambilan,  or  the 
Nine  Isles.  We  gratified  our  curiosity  by  land-^ 
ing  on  the  largest  Dinding.  The  sea-breeze 
carried  us  in  between  this  island  and  the  main- 
land of  Ferak,  with  which  it  forms  a  beautiful 
and  safe  harbour,  running  north  and  south,  and 
seemingly  sheltered  from  every  wind.  After 
rounding  the  south  point  of  the  island,  of  which 
we  sailed  within  one  hundred  yards,  we  came 
upon  a  little  cove,  with  a  sandy  beach,  and  here 
landed.  The  island  consists  of  abrupt  hills  of 
a  few  hundred  feet  high,  clothed  with  tall  wood 
almost  to  the  water's  edge.    Except  in  one  or 


46  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

two  spots,  such  as  that  on  which  we  landed, 
th^re  was  no  beach,  the  ooast  being  fonned  of 
great  Uocks  of  granite,  the  only  rock  which  we 
any  whane  parceived.  Tin  ore  is  asserted  to  be 
found  on  the  island.  It  is  utterly  uncultivated 
and  uninhabited ;  but  near  the  landing-place  we 
observed  two  or  three  temporary  and  unoo^i- 
pied  huts  thrown  up,  consisting  of  a  few  boughs 
of  trees  and  some  long  grass.  This  is  a  famous 
haunt  of  pirates,  and  our  Malay  interpreters  in- 
formed us  that  these  huts  were  of  their  con* 
struction.  In  the  seventeenth  century,  the  Dutdi 
occupied  the  island  as  a  post  to  control  the  trade 
of  ihe  country,  and  chiefly  to  secure  a  monopoly 
of  the  tin  of  the  Malay  principality  of  Perak. 
Dampier,  who  visited  this  place  in  the  year  1689, 
gives  an  accurate  description  of  it.  Relying 
upon  his  known  fidelity,  we  sought  for  the  re* 
mains  of  the  Dutch  fort,  and  found  it  exactly  as 
he  described  it  The  brick  walls  are  still  stand- 
ing after  a  lapse  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
years;  concealed,  however,  from  the  first  view, 
by  the  forest  which  has  grown  round  them.  The 
fort  was  merely  a  square  building  of  masonry  of 
about  thirty  feet  to  a  side.  A  platform,  about 
sixteen  feet  high,  contained  the  guns  and  troops, 
and  in  the  walls  were  eight  round  embrasures 
for  cannon,  and  sixteen  loop-holes  for  fire-arms. 
The  governor  and  officers'  apartments  were  in 
the  upper-story.    There  was  but  one  entrance 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  47 

m 

to  the  fort,  and  this  hy  a  flight  of  steps  to- 
wards the  sea-side.      Dampier  tells  us  that  the 
governor  had  a  detached   house  near  the  sea, 
where  he  passed  the  day,  but  which,  for  secu- 
rity, he  always  abandoned  for  the  fort  at  night ; 
and  accordingly  we  found,  in  the  situation  he 
mentions,  the   terrace  on  which  the  house  in 
question  sftood,  with  fragments  of  broken  bot- 
tles and  coarse  china-ware   scattered   here  and 
there  in  its  neighboiurhood.     The  whole  appear- 
ance of  the  place  conveyed  a  very  good*  picture 
of  the  state  of  alarm  and  distrust  in  which  the 
garrison  perpetually  lived — the  effect  of  the  law- 
less and  unprofitable  object  in  which  they  were 
engi^igedi.     Dampier  tells  a  very  ludicrous  story 
to  this  effect : — While  the  captain  of  his  ship  and 
a  passenger,  with  his  wife,  were  ^itertained  by 
the  Dutch  governor,  in  his  house  without  the 
fort,  an  alarm  was  given  of-  the  appearance  of 
Malays !     His  Excellency,  without  any  warning 
to  his  guests,  bolted  out  of  one  of  the  windows, 
and  ran  off  to  the  fort,  followed  by  all  his  ser- 
vants and  attendants.     The  feast  was  left  stand- 
ings and  the  garrison  began  to  fire  the  great  guns, 
by  way  of  ^vihg  the  Malays  to  understand  that 
they  were  prepared  for  them.     The  year  after 
Dampier  visited  it,  the  garrison  was  cut  off,  nor 
have  I  heard  that  it  was  ever  re-established.    We 
discovered  that  the  place  had  not  been  without 
some  occasional  European  visitors,  for  on  the 


48  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

plaster  of  the  embrasures  were  carved  the  initials 
of  several  names,  and  in  very  plain  figures,  the 
years  1727,  1754,  and  1821.  This  island,  like 
others  in  these  latitudes,  affords  a  rich  field  for 
the  botanist.  Mr.  Finlayson  here  discovered  a 
new  epidendron,  of  gigantic  dimensions.  The 
flowering  stem  was  six  feet  long,  and  had  from 
ninety  to  one  hundred  flowers  upon  it,  each  of 
which  was  two  and  a  half  inches  broad,  and  four 
inches  long,  of  a  rich  yellow  colour,  spotted  with 
brown,  and  emitting  a  very  agreeable  fragrance. 
Deer  and  wild  h<^s  seem  to  abound  in  the  is- 
land ;  for  we  discovered  many  of  their  tracks  in 
the  sand. 

As  an  European  establishment,  with  which 
viev?  it  has  been  contemplated,  this  island,  though 
the  harbour  be  good,  more  easily  accessible  than 
any  other  which  has  been  named  for  such  a  pur- 
pose, and  far  more  in  the  direct  track  of  active 
commerce  than  Penang,  is  certainly,  upon  the 
whole,  unsuitable.  It  is,  on  the  one  hand,  too 
far  within  the  Straits  for  a  place  of  resort  and 
refreshment  for  our  navy  coming  from  the  Bay 
of  Bengal;  and,  on  the  other,  much  too  far  to 
the  west,  to  be  an  emporium  for  the  commerce 
of  the  nations  to  the  eastward  of  the  Straits 
of  Malacca.  Independent  of  these  primary  ob- 
jections, there  seems  scarcely  a  spot  in  the  island 
level  enough  for  cultivation,  or  even  for  con- 
venient  and  comfortable  habitation.      The  pros- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  49 

pect  of  deriving  any  benefit  from  the  working 
of  tin-mines  in  this  island,  even  under  an  !p^u~ 
Topean  Gtovemment,  supposing  the  ore  to  exist 
in  sufficient  abundance,  appears  to  nie  to  be 
more  than  questionable.  The  whole  island  is  an 
abrupt  hard  granite  rock,  from  which  ore  could 
not  be  extracted  with  any.  profit  in  the  state 
of  skill  and  industry  which  exists  among  the 
natives  of  the  country,  or  even  among  the  Chi- 
nese; themselves.  In  Banca,  and  other  places 
where  abundance  of  tin  is  produced,  the  ore  is 
found  in  situations  extremely  different,  that  is,  in 
streams  through  the  soil  of  the  low  lands,  from 
which  it  is  easily  extracted,  readily  smelted,  and 
finally  when  smelted,  affording  a  metal  of  supe- 
rior value  to  what  is  obtained  by  the  laborious 
process  of  mining  in  rocky  districts. 

Jan.  11. — We  had  now  passed  the  territories 
of  Perak  and  Salangore.  Perak  contains  one  hun- 
dred and  five  mokims,  or  petty  parishes,  and  is 
said  to  be  more  populous  than  Queda.  It  ex- 
tends about  seventy-five  miles  along  the  coast, 
in  by  far  the  broadest  part  of  the  whole  penin- 
sula. This  is  the  most  productive  part  of  the 
western  coast  in  tin.  I  have  never  heard  any 
exact  statement  of  the  quantity  it  yields,  but  of 
the  15,000  piculs,  or  about  2,000,000lbs,  imported 
yearly  into  Penang,  a  very  large  share  is  from 

VOL.    I.  E 


50  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

this  country.*  Perak,  like  Queda»  is  a  vassal  of 
Siam,  and  being  refractory,  about  two  years  ago» 
was  reduced  to  subjection  by  the  Queda  Chief, 
in  consequence  of  orders  from  the  Lord  Para- 
mount. 

Salangore  extends  about  ninety-six  miles  along 
the  coast,  where  the  peninsula  begins  to  grow 
narrow.  This  is  a  very  petty  state,  and  inferior 
in  population  to  Ferak  and  Queda.  Thexdgn- 
ing  family  is  Bugis  of  the  Waju  race  that  is  of 
the  most  commercial  and  enterprising  of  the  na- 
tions of  Celebes.  In  this  state,  at  a  place  called 
Lukot,  situated  immediately  to  the  north  of  Cape 
Rachado,  a  valuable  tin  mine  has  lately  been  dis- 
covered, and  is  now  worked. 

Jan.  13. — Last  night  we  came  into  the  roads 
of  Malacca,  saluting  a  Dutch  sloop  of  war  and. 
the  fort ;  and  this  morning,  about  ten  o'clock,  we 
landed  in  the  Dutch  Governor's  accommodation- 
boat,  which  had  been  politely  sent  for  us.  On 
landing,  we  were  received  on  the  wharf  by  the 
Governor's  secretary,  charged  with  an  invitation 
from  Mr.  Timmerman  Tysen,  the  Governor, 
whom  I  had  had  the  pleasure  of  knowing  scrnie 
years  before  at  Batavia.  Such  of  our  party  as 
could  be  accommodated  accepted  the  invitation, 
and  the  rest  took  up  their  residence  in  the  town. 


*  Its  produce  is  reckoned   at  4000  piculs^  of  ISSjlbs.  of 
avoirdupois. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  51 

This  morning  I  walked  round  the  hill  of  Malacca; 
and  surveyed  those  ruined  fortifications  which, 
under  the  Portuguese,  had  resisted  twelve  sieges; 
On  the  top  of  the  hill,  which  is  about  a  hun- 
dred feet  high,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Portuguese 
church  of  St.  Paul,  still  a  conspicuous  landmark 
in  approaching  the  roads.  It  was  built  soon  after 
the  Portuguese  conquest,  and  towards  the  be* 
ginning  of  the  sixteenth  century.  The  Dutch, 
after  getting  possession  of  Malacca,  used  it  as  a 
Protestant  church  and  burying-ground ;  and  hence 
the  unusual  spectacle  which  it  jM-esents  of  the 
tombs  of  conqvierors  and  conquered,  Catholics, 
and  heretics,  blended  together  in  one  spot.  With* 
out  reading  the  inscriptions,  the  tombstones  of 
the  respective  people  are  to  be  recognised  by 
their  age,  and  the  different  materials  of  which 
they  consist.  The  Portuguese  tombs  are  of  gra- 
nite from  China,  and  the  Dutch  of  a  hard  black 
trap  rock  from  the  Coromandel  coast,  for  neither 
Malacca  nor  its  vicinity  afford  either.  Among 
the  tombstones  we  read,  in  very  distinct  charac- 
ters, and  in  the  Latin  language,  the  inscription 
on  that  of  Dominus  Petrus,  second  Bishop  of  Ja- 
pan, who  is  stated  to  have  died  in  the  Straits  of 
Singapore,  in  the  year  1598.  The  body  of.  St. 
Francis  Xavier,  the  Apostle  of  the  Indies,  who 
died  in  China,  once  reposed  here,  but  the  isacred 
lelic  was  disinterred  and  finally  conveyed  to  Goa. 
Jmu  14r. — I  called  upon  Mr.  Milne  this  fore- 
£  2 


63  EBfBASSY  TO  8IAM 

noon.  This  industrious  and  highly  respectable 
character  is  an  Englishman  by  birth,  and  the 
second  in  rank  of  the  Protestant  Mission  to 
China,  in  connexion  with  the  Malay,  denomi- 
nated the  UltnuGangetic  Mission.  This  frater- 
nity has  been  established  at  Malacca  since  the 
year  1815,  and  since  1818  an  Anglo-Chinese 
College  has  been  established,  the  chief  object 
of  which  institution  is  the  cultivation  of  Chinese 
and  English  literature,  and  the  diffusion  of 
Christianity  in  the  countries  and  islands  lying  to 
the  eastward  of  Penang.  Mr.  Milne  is  one  of 
the  best  Chinese  scholars  living,  and  the  result 
of  his  indefatigable  labours  is,  a  versicm  of  the 
Scriptures,  in  great  progress,  a  periodical  work  in 
the  Chinese  language,  another  in  English,  called 
**  The  Indo-Chinese  Gleaner,"  and  a  little  volume, 
entitled,  "A  Retrospect  of  the  First  Ten  Years 
of  the  Protestant  Mission  to  China,"  which  last 
contains  some  excellent  remarks  on  the  manners 
and  literature  of  the  Indo-Chinese  nations. 
These  have  all  issued  from  the  press  of  the  semi- 
naiy  itself  at  Malacca.  The  labours  of  such  men 
as  Mr.  Milne,  Dr.  Morrison,  Dr.  Carey,  and  Mr, 
Marchman,  are  of  incalculable  benefit  to  the 
cause  of  humanity  and  civilization,  while  it  is 
acknowledged  on  every  side,  that  their  means 
and  motives  are  equally  unexceptionable  and 
pure.  Mr*  Milne,  in  conversation,  furnished  us 
with  some  valuable  hints  respecting  the  objects 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  53 

of  our  Embassy  to  Cochin  Chinas  and  with 
notes  on  the  geography  and  commerce  of  that 
country;  the  result  of  his  inquiries  among  the 
traders  from  thence,  who  have  of  late  years 
visited  the  Straits  of  Malacca.  > 

Jan.  16. — Last  night  Mr.  Timmerman,  the  Go- 
vernor, gave  a  ball  and  supper,  in  compliment 
to  tlie  departure  of  the  militaiy  officers  of  the 
station,  relieved  by  fresh  troops  from  Batavia. 
Besides  the  inhabitants  of  the  place,  the  party 
consisted  of  the  officers  oX.  three  Dutch  men-of- 
war  lying  at  the  time  in  the  Roads.  This  occa- 
sion gave  us  an  opportunity  of  observing  the 
manners  and  appearance  of  the  colonists.  Out 
of  thirty-seven  ladies,  two  or  three  only  were 
Europeans,  and  tlie  rest  bom  in  the  country, 
with  a  large  admixture  of  Asiatic  blood.  The 
female  dress,  of  the  younger  part,  was  in  the 
English  fashion;  and  a  very  few  only  of  the 
elderly  ladies  dressed  in  the  Malay  kabaya,  a 
sort  of  loose  gown,  or  wore  the  hair  in  the  Malay 
fashion.  The  long  residence  of  the  English  in 
the  Dutch  colonies, — ^the  influence  of  the  French, 
and  lately,  of  their  own  more  polished  country* 
women, — have  nearly  banished  these  external 
marks  of  barbarism.  Before  the  last  ten  years^ 
the  habits  and  costume  of  the  female  Dutch 
colonists  partook  more  of  the  Asiatic  than  the 
European.  Instead  of  Dutch,  they  spoke  a 
barbarous  dialect  of  Malay ;  they  were  habited, 


54.  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

as  I  have  described,  in  the  dress  of  that  people ; 
they  chewed  the  pawn-leaf  publidy,  and  even 
in  the  hall-room  each  fair  dame  had  bef<»e 
her  an  enormous  brass  ewer  to  receive  the  refuse 
of  her  mastication. 

-  Jan.  17. — We  re-embarked  last  evening,  the 
Dutch  Governor  politely  attending  us  to  the 
wharf,  and  at  eight  at  night,  a  fine  sea-breeze 
having  set  in,  we  weighed  and  made  sail  to- 
wards Singapore,  in  company  with  a  Dutch 
corvette, —The  following  is  a  short  sketch  of 
the  place  we  had  just  left,  the  result  of  pre- 
vious inquiry,  as  well  as  of  examination  on  the 
spot.  The  territory  of  Malacca  is  forty  miles 
in  length  along  the  sea,  and  extends  thirty 
miles  inland.  The  principality  of  Salangore 
boimds  it  to  the  north  at  Cape  Rachado.  Jehor 
bounds  it  to  the  south,  at  the  river  Mora,  and 
the  territory  of  Rumbo  to  the  east.  The  largest 
mountain  in  the  territory  of  Malacca  is  Ledang, 
which  the  Portuguese,  and  other  £ujx>peans  in 
imitation  of  them,  have  denominated  Mount 
Pphir.  This  is  distant  from  Malacca  twenty- 
four  miles,  in  a  straight  direction,  and  thirty- 
two  by  the  windings  of  a  vjpry  bad  road.  Its 
height  is  about  4000  feet.  Besides  a  number 
of  petty  streams,  there  are  in  the  territory  of 
Malacca  two  considerable  rivers,  namely.  Mora, 
aheady  named,  and  Langituah,  the  embouchure 
gf  which  is  a  little  to 'the  south  of  Cape  Ba- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  65 

chado.  The  granitic  formatioD,  which  charac- 
terises the  countries  we.  have  hitherto  visited, 
partiaUy^  disappears  at  Malacca;  the  whole  terri- 
tory of  which,  as  far  as  we  could  learn,  is  one 
uniform  mass  of  cellular  iron-ore.  The  valuable 
minerals  found  within  the  territory  of  Malacca 
Me  gold  and  tin ;  but  the  first,  nowhere  in  suf- 
ficient abundance  to  have  fixed  the  imperfect 
industry  of  the  native  inhabitants;  of  the  se- 
cond, it  is  said  to  produce  4000  piculs.  The 
ioil  must  be  considered  as  decidedly  deficient  in 
fertility,  for  at  no  period  of  its  history  does 
Malacca  appear  to  have  been  capable  of  sup- 
plying its  own  scanty  population  with  bread 
com.  Bad  government  must  not  be  assigned 
as  the  sole  cause,  for  Malacca  has  had  various 
forms  of  European  government;  all  of  them, 
however  bad  or  imperfect,  generally  superior  to 
the  native  governments  of  several  neighbouring 
countries,  producing  an  abundant  supply  of 
grain.  Fruits,  the  perfection  of  which  depends 
more,  in  these  latitudes,  upon  the  culture  they 
receive  than  upon  the  quality  of  the  soil,  and 
which  are  never  skilfully  cultivated  but  by  Eu- 
ropeans, are  produced  in  great  excellence  and 
variety  at  Malacca.  Seventy-two  species  have 
been  produced  at  once  at  a  dessert;  but,  of 
course,  the  greater  number  very  worthless*  The 
mangustin  and  pine-apple  are  unrivalled  at  this 
place.    The  durian,  the  orange,  the  plantain,  the 


56  EMBASSY    TO   SIAM 

shaddock,  idid  the  dukuh,  are  also  very  fine. 
Poultry  and  hogs  are  of  good  quality,  and  in 
abundance,  but  sheep  do  not  exist,  and  homed 
cattle  are  scarce. 

The  present  population  of  the  town  of  Ma- 
lacca  and  its  territory  is  22,000;  a  number 
which  does  not  seem  to  have  varied  for  at  least 
the  last  six-and-twenty  years ;  a  fact  which  pro- 
claims in  intelligible  language  the  decrease  of 
wealth,  or  at  least  the  absence  of  prosp^rity^ 
A  place  which  has  been  the  seat  of  European 
commerce  for  three  centuries,  and  was  for  more 
than  two  centuries  and  a  half  before  in  the 
possession  of  an  active  and  commercial  race  of 
nativies,  and  yet  contains  little  more  than  eigh- 
teen inhabitants  to  a  square  mOe,  must  be  con- 
sidered as  labouring  under  some  natural,  and 
perhaps  insuperable  defects.* 

The  permanent  inhabitants  of  Malacca  are  the 
Malays,  a  brown-coloured  race  of  savages,  with 
lank  hair,  called  Benua  and  Jakong;  a  race  of 
Hindu  colonists  from  Telinga;  the  descendants 
of  the  Portuguese  conquerors ;  and  those  of  the 
Dutch.  To  this  list  may  be  added  the  usual 
admixture  of  Chinese,  and  of  Mohammedans  of 
the  coast  of  Coromandel.     To  a  brief  account 

♦  While  we  occupied  Malacca,  during  the  war,  its  popula- 
tion was  estimated  at  25,000.  The  Dutch  estimated  it^  as 
stated  in  the  text,  at  22,000.  By  a  census,  or  estimate,  made 
IP  1827,  it  is  reduced  to  16,000. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA,  67 

of  these,  I  shall  premise  a  short  sketch  of  the 
history  of  Malacca. — About  the  middle  of  the 
twelfth  century,  when  Europeans  were  as  yet  in 
ignorance  of  the  existence  of  such  a  people,  a 
colony  of  Malays,  from  Menangkabao,  or  per- 
haps  more  correctly  from  the  north  coast  of  Su- 
matra generally,  are  said  to  have  settled  at  8m<^ 
gapura,  at  the  extremity  of  the  Malay  peninsula, 
the  very  spot  on  which  we  ourselves  have  lately 
formed  an  establishment.  After  a  residence  short 
of  a  century  at  this  place,  they  were  driven  from 
it  by  the  Javanese,  and  retiring  to  the  west- 
ward, founded  Malacca  in  the  year  1252.  Four- 
and-twenty  years  after  this  event  they  were  con^- 
verted  to  the  Mohammedan  religion,  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty-nine  years  later  they  were  con- 
quered by  the  Portuguese,  who,  after  one  hun^^ 
dred  and  twenty-nine  years  possession,  were 
expelled  by  the  Dutch.  The  Malay  popula- 
tion of  Malacca  are  the  reputed  descendants  of 
the  first  colonists  from  Sumatra.  The  Jakong 
and  the  Benua  are  wild  races  of  men  living 
in  the  deep  forests  of  the  interior  of  the  pen- 
insula, being  spread  over  the  territories  of  Ma- 
lacca, Rumbo,  and  Jehor.  They  exist  principally 
in  the  hunter  state,  some  of  the  least  uncivilized 
practising  a  little  rude  husbandry.  Their  per- 
sons are  nearly  naked,  and  their  habitations  ex- 
tremely rude.  A  death  happening  in  a  tribe 
is  always  the  signal  for  abandoning  their  habi* 


58  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

tatioDs,    and    taking    up    a    new    encampment. 
They  appear  to  practise  no  cruel  rites,  and  in 
their  manners  to  be  altogether  extremely  inof- 
fensive.    What  renders  this  wild  i>eople  most 
remarkable,  is  their  differing  totally  in  language 
and  physical  form  from  the  Negro  races  which 
inhabit  the  interior  of  the  more  northern  parts 
of  the  peninsula.     They  are,  in  fact,  Malays  in 
the  savage  state.     Doctor  Leyden,  who  visited 
them  in  1811,  on  oiur  way  to  the  conquest  of 
Java,  could  discover  in  their  language  but  seven- 
and*twenty  words  which  differed  from  common 
Malay ;  and  on  examination  of  the  specimens  he 
gives,  I  find,  that  at  least  six  or  seven  of  these 
are  extremely  doubtful ;   while  two  or  three  ap* 
pear  original  Malay  words,  for  whidi   Sanscrit 
mies  have  been .  substituted  in  the  more  modem 
dialect.     Whether  this  rude  people  be  the  true 
original  stock  of  the  wide-spread  race  of  the  Ma^ 
lays,  or  a  degenerated  one  from  the  colonists  of 
Sumatra,  before  their  conversion  to  Mohamme- 
danism, is  a  matter  not  very  easily  detomined 
With  respect  to  the  Malays  of  the  neighbouring 
state  of  Bumbo  having  emigrated  from  Sumatra, 
there  is  .no  question  made.    Other  Malays  deno- 
buiiate  them   "people  of  Menangkabao ;"  th^ 
speak  tlie  precise  language  of  the  people  of  this 
last  country,  ending  their  words  always  with  a 
short  o  instead  of  a  short  a,  as  done  by  other 
Malays..    A  friendly  intercourse  is  alwaya  maior 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  59 

tained  between  the  two  states;  Menangkabao 
being  acknowledged  the  paramount  one»  and  the 
Prince  of  Rumbo  receiving  a  regular  investiture 
from  that  country. 

The  Hindus  of  Malacca  are  the  only  ultrama- 
rine colonists  of  that  people  of  whom  I  have 
heard.  The  popular  notion  of  its  being  forbidden 
to  Hindus  to  quit  their  country  by  sea,  is  suffi- 
ciently contradicted  by  their  existence ;  and  how 
indeed,  without  supposing  such  emigration,  are 
we,  in  common  sense,  to  account  for  the  once 
wide  spread  of  their  religion  among  the  distant 
islands  of  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  Malacca  colony 
amounts  at  present  to  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  families,  and  in  the  more  prosperous  days  of 
the  settlement,  is  said  to  have  been  far  more  nu« 
merous.  The  colonists  are  of  the  Telinga,  op 
Kalinga  nation,  and  at  present  composed  only  of 
the  third  and  fourth,  or  mercantile  and  servile 
classes  of  the  Hindu  orders.  Not  a  great  many 
years  ago,  there  were  still  a  few  Bramins  and 
Chatrias  among  them.  The  Malacca  Hindus 
practise  all  the  ordinary  rites  of  the  Hindu 
worship ;  they  refuse  to  eat  with  persons  of  other 
religions ;  and  in  their  food  reject  beef  and  pork, 
but  consume  fish,  goat's  flesh,  and  fowls.  Those 
of  the  mercantile  order  employ  themselves  as 
traders,  accountants,  and  assayers  of  gold,  in  which 
last  occupation  they  have  a  high  reputation  both 
for  skill  and  fidelity.       Persons  of  the  lower 


60  EMBASSY   TO   8IAM 

order  ure  employed  in  the  usual  occupations  of 
the  servile  class,  including  agriculture.  The  fa- 
mily of  Bisara  Seti,  the  present  chief  of  this 
tribe,  from  whom  I  derive  my  information,  settled 
in  Malacca  one  hundred  and  forty-three  years 
ago ;  but  he  can  give  no  information  respecting 
the  establishment  of  the  first  colonists.  He  states 
generally,  however,  that  the  greater  number  set- 
tled at  Malacca  during  the  Portuguese  rule. 
When  the  Hindu  settlers  fijpst  came  over,  they 
were  unattended  by  their  families,  and  formed 
connexions  with  the  women  of  the  country,  par- 
ticularly with  those  of  Celebes ;  they  soon  how- 
ever abandoned  this  practice,  as  is  evident 
enough  from  their  preserving  the  genuine  Hindu 
features,  and  a  stature  considerably  beyond  that 
of  the  islanders. 

The  Portuguese  amount  to  4000,  and  are  all 
of  the  lowest  order.  Although  with  a  great  ad- 
mixture of  Asiatic  blood,  the  European  features 
are  still  strongly  marked  in  them.  I  have  no 
doubt  there  are  among  them  many  of  the  lineal 
descendants  of  the  haughty,  intolerant,  and  brave 
men,  who  fought  by  the  side  of  Albuquerque; 
but  they  certainly  inherit  no  part  of  the  character 
of  their  ancestors,  and  are  a  timid,  peaceable,  and 
submissive  race.  They  offer  to  us  a  spectacle  not 
frequently  presented  in  the  East — that  of  men 
bearing  the  European  name,  and  wearing  the 
European  garb,  engaged  in  the  humblest  occu* 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  61 

pations  of  life,  for  we  find  tbem  employed  as 
domestic  servants,  as  day  labourers,  and  as  fisher- 
men. 

Malacca  is  probably  doomed  to  sink  into  still 
greater  insignificance  than  that  into  which  it  has 
already  fallen,  but  it  is  associated  in  our  minds 
with  one  of  the  most  interesting  events  in  the 
history  of  our  species — the  discovery  of  a  new 
route  to  the  Indies,  and  the  heroic  achievements 
of  the  Portuguese  which  immediately  followed  it. 
We  cannot,  as  Europeans,  but  survey  with  pride 
the  spot  on  which  stood  the  bridge  by  which 
Albuquerque,  at  the  head  of  700  Europeans, 
stormed  walls  and  intrenchments  that  were  guard- 
ed by  30,000  barbarians — an  achievement  superior 
to  any  of  those  of  Pizarro,  inasmuch  as  the  Ma- 
lays were»a  braver  and  even  more  civilized  enemy 
than  the  Americans.  An  Englishman  will  siee, 
with  some  mortification,  the  ruins  of  the  fortifi- 
cation which  the  Portuguese  constructed  shortly 
ufter  the  conquest.  It  surrounded  the  little  hill, 
on  the  top  of  which  was  the  church  of  St.  PauFs, 
already  mentioned.  The  walls  were  of  solid  ma- 
sonry, and  of  the  iron-stone  of  the  country*  To 
the  west  it  was  protected  by  the  sea,  to  the  north 
by  the  river,  and  it  had  a  moat  to  the  other  two 
sides.  This  specimen  of  the  art  of  fortification  in 
the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century,  the  only 
one  existing  in  these  parts,  and  the  pride  and 
trust  of  the  native  inhabitants,  was,  by  a  piece 


62  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

of  policy,  equally  barbarous  and  unneoeasary, 
Uown  up  by  us  in  the  year  1 807. 

The  Dutch  support  at  Malacca  a  most  unne^ 
cessary  civil  and  military  establishment,  which,  in- 
dependent of  the  revenue  of  the  place  itself,  costs 
them  three  lacks  of  rupees,  or  near  30,000/.  a- 
year.  In  a  place  remarkable  for  the  peaceable 
character  of  its  inhabitants,  arid  without  an  enemy, ' 
European  or  native,  they  have  an  effective  body 
of  400  troops,  besides  keeping  on  foot  a  militia 
or  burgher  corps.  Fifty  regular  soldiers  would 
have  been  quite  adequate  to  the  protection  of  the 
place,  and  a  mimicipal  establishment  upon  the 
humblest  scale  the  most  suitable  for  its  good 
government.* 

.  Malacca,  in  every  stage  of  its  liistory,  owed 
its  prosperity  to  its  being  the  only  port  in  the 
Straits  of  Malacca,  where  there  was  tolerable  se- 
curity for  life  and  property.  The  Dutch  them- 
selves did  much  towards  its  ruin  by  the  highly 
illiberal  system  of  exclusive  trade,  which  they 
long  persevered  in.  The  establishment  of  Pe- 
nangi  on  different  principles,  brought  the  mattar 
nearly  to  a  crisis,  and  that  of  Singapore  has  com- 

*  Shortly  after  this  passage  was  written,  the  Dutch  judici- 
ously reduced  both  their  ciril  and  military  establishments.  The 
place,  as  is  sufficiently  known,  is  now  a  British  possessioa,  and 
although  not  likely  to  be  of  much  value>  it  may  be  render^  at 
least  not  burthensome  to  us^  if  its  establishments  be  kept  within 
the  bounds  of  moderation.  For  taking  an  opposite  course^  it 
would  be  extremely  difficult  to  find  any  pretext. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  69 

pleted  its  fall.  The  s3rniptoms  of  decay  are  too 
striking  to  escape  observation^  and  the  travellei^ 
who  has  quitted  either  of  those  settlements,  con-^ 
not  fail  to  contrast  their  industry  and  activity 
with  the  Hfeless  duhiess  which  reigns  at  Malacca* 
Jan.  18. — At  daylight  this  morning  we  bad 
Fuk)  Pisang  behind  us»  Pulo  Kakab  to  our  left, 
and  the  Carimons  and  other  islands  to  our  right, 
with  Tanjung  Bulus,  (correctly,  Buros,)  the  most 
southern  extremity  of  the  continent  of  Asia,  in 
latitude  1^  Ifl'  north,  before  us.  We  bore  down 
upon  the  Cariimons,  with  a  view  of  making  somie 
inquiry  respecting  them;  and  at  ten  o'clock 
landed  upon  the  Little  Carimon,  the  latitude 
of  the  northern  end  of  which  is  l""  8^'  north; 
This  island  is.  about  two  miles  long,  and  the 
highe&t  part  of  it  perhaps  about  500  feet  in 
height.  The  whole  is  high  land,  coviered  with 
a  lofty  forest,  and  the  coast  steep  and  rocky. 
The  island  is  uninhabited,  and  indeed,  from  its 
formation  and  aspect,  does  not  appear  a  fit  resi-> 
dence  for  man  in  any  stage  of  civilization.  The 
Great  Carimon  is  divided  from  the  little  one  by 
a  very  narrow  and  deep  gut.  It  is  twelve  miles 
in  length,  by  five  in  breadth ;  has  a  great  deal  of 
low  land,  apparently  suited  for  culture ;  and  two 
peaked  mountains  about  the  centre,  the  highest 
of  which  did  not  appear  to  us  to  be  less  than 
1800  or  2000  feet  high.  I  am  told  there  are 
a  few  Malay  settlers  upon  it.     To  the  west  of 


64  EMBASSY  TO   SLAM 

the  Carimons  are  distinctly  visible  many  islands, 
the  very  names  of  which  are  unknown  to  Eu* 
ropeans. 

We  examined,  with  considerable  attention, 
that  side  of  the  Little  Carimon  on  which  we 
landed.  The  rock  of  which  it  is  composed  is 
porphyritic  homstone,  varying  in  appearance  as 
the  grain  is  larger  or  smaller:  it  is  extremely 
hard  and  flinty^  and  exhibits  a  conchoidical 
fracture.  The  surface  of  the  rock  has  every 
where  a  honeycombed  appearance ;  and  the  hol- 
lows, when  examined,  are  discovered  to  be  drusy 
cavities,  many  of  them  containing  portions  of 
secondary  limestone.  One  of  these  cavities  I 
measured,  and  found  to  be  four  feet  three 
inches  long,  two  feet  broad,  and  eighteen  inches 
deep.* 

Jan.  19.— At  twelve  o'clock  to-day  we  passed 
the  narrow  channel  of  the  Rabbit  and  Coney, 
the  western  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Suiga- 
pore,  and  soon  found  ourselves  surrounded  in 
every  direction  by  beautiful  verdant  islands. 
The  sea  was  smooth,  the  sky  dear,  and  the  whole 
prospect  equally  novel  and  pleasing.    From  the 

*  In  the  autumn  of  1825,  while  resident  of  Singapore,  I  yi-^ 
sited  the  Carimon  Island  (correctly  written  Krimun) ;  the  hom- 
•tone  mentioned  in  the  text  la  confined  to  the  coast,  and  is 
merely  a  partial  and  overlaying  formation.  The  interior  is  com* 
posed  of  granite,  with  veins  of  white  quartzl,  and  abounds  in 
tin-ore.  The  inhabitants  of  the  larger  island  amount  to  400  in 
number. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA,  6S 

deck  there  could  be  counted  between  fifty  and 
sixty  green  and  woody  iskmds  of  various  dimen- 
sions,  and  from  the  mast-head  above  seventy.  I 
do  not  believe  there  is  any  part  of  the  world 
which  can  afford  a  prospect,  in  its  way,  of  su- 
perior beauty,  and  this  indeed  has  been  observed 
and  confessed  by  all  voyagers.  At  six  o'clock  we 
anchored  in  Singapore  Roads. 

Jan.  21. — Last  night  my  old  friend  Colonel 
Farquhar,  resident  of  Singapore,  sent  his  staff, 
Captain  Dairies,  on  board  to  invite  us  on  shore. 
We  landed  this  morning ;  and  Mr.  Scott,  a  mer- 
chant of  this  new  settlement,  and  the  son  of  my 
respected  friend,  Mr.  Robert  Scott,  an  experi- 
enced and  most  intelligent  merchant  of  Penang, 
hospitably  and  obligingly  gave  his  house  up  for 
our  accommodation.  In  the  evening  we  dined 
with  Colonel  Farquhar,  and  went  through  the 
greater  part  of  the  new  settlement.  Notwith- 
standing  the  state  of  abeyance  in  which  the  poli-^ 
tical  question  regarding  the  settlement  was  in- 
volved, there  was  universally  an  air  of  animation 
and  activity.  Several  miles  of  new  road  were 
already  formed,  and  the  habitations  were  so  nu- 
merous, and  the  population  so  great,  that  we 
could  hardly  imagine  that  the  whole  was  the  cre- 
ation of  three  short  years. 

Jan.  28. — We  had  to-day  a  visit  from  some 
individuals  of  the  race  of  Malays,  called  Or^ng- 
laut, — that  is,  "  men  of  the  sea."    They  have  a 

VOL.  I.  F 


66  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

rough  exterior,  and  their  speech  is  awkward 
and  uncouth ;  but,  in  other  respects,  I  could 
^observe  little  essential  difference  between  them 
and  other  Malays.  These  people  have  adopted 
the  Mohammedm  religion.  They  are  divided 
into,  at  least,  twenty  tribes,  distinguished  usu- 
ally by  the  straits  or  narrow  seas  they  princi- 
pally frequent.  A  few  of  them  have  habitat 
tions  on  shore,  but  by  far  the  greater  number 
live  constantly  in  their  boats,  and  nearly  their 
sole  occupation  is  fishing;  those  who  are  most 
civilized  cultivating  a  few  bananas.  They  are 
subjects  of  the  King  of  Johore,  and  the  same 
people  who  have  been  called  Orang  SaUat^  or, 
''  men  of  the  straits ;" — the  straits  her^  alluded 
to  being,  not  the  great  Straits  of  Malacca,  which 
are  extensive  beyond  their  comprehension,  but 
the  narrow  guts  running  among  the  little  islets 
that  are  so  abimdantly  strewed  over  its  eastern 
entrance.  Under  this  appellation  they  have  been 
notorious  for  their  piracies,  from  the  earliest 
knowledge  of  Europeans  respecting  these  coun- 
tries. 

Ji«».  27. — We  went  yesterday  morning  along 
the  coast,  to  the  westward,  and  visited  the  new 
harbour,  or  S^t  Panikam,  as  it  is  called  by 
the  Malays.  This  harbour  is  formed  by  Singa^* 
pore  and  the  islets  which  lie  off  the  western 
limit  of  the  roadstead.  The  entrance  is  narrow 
and  difficult;  but  when  a  ship  is  once  moored 


AJfD  COCHIN   CHINA.  6? 

within  it,  she  is  secure  from  every  dmg^r, — 
from  rocks,  elements,  and  even  from  an  ene- 
foj,  for  half  a  dozen  guns  would  make  it  im« 
pregnable  to  any  attack  from  sea.  The  pros* 
pect  we  had  on  entering  it  was  beautiful  and 
unexpected.  We  found  ourselves  completely 
landlocked,  in  every  direction,  by  the  grqen  and 
woody  shores  of  the  islands  surrounding  us ; 
and  the  sea,  though  considerably  ruffled  with- 
out, was  here  as  smooth  as  glass.  This  is  a 
favourite  retreat  of  the  OrSng-kut  Oii  our 
arrival,  their  proas  were  lying  along  the  shore; 
but  as  the  flood-tide  made,  they  advanced  into 
the  middle  of  the  channel,  and  began  to  fishv 
Their  principal  mode  of  taking  fish  is  by  spear* 
ing,  and  hence  the  native  name  of  the  Strait, 
which  has  this  meaning.  The*  larger  fish  are 
followed  by  the  proas,  and  easUy  traced  through 
the  water,  which  is  perfectly  dear  and  trans- 
parent. They. are  speared  with  a  long  trident, 
and  with  sudi  dexterity  as  to  be  seldom  miss* 
ed.  This  mode  of  taking  fish  must  be  tedi-^ 
ous  and  unproductive.  It  is  suited,  however,  to 
the  poverty  of  the  people,  who,  perhaps,  cannot 
afibrd  the  necessary  supply  of  nets,  and,  I  have 
no  doubt,  is  strongly  recommended  to  them  by 
the  pleasure  they  derive  from  the  pursuit.  They 
complain,  I  understand,  of  the  numerous  stake- 
uets  erected  by  the  industrious  Chinese,  in  the 
harbour  of  Singapore,   as    detrimental  to  their 

F  2 


68  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

employment,  pretty  much  in  the  same  way  as 
European  labourers  complain  of  the  introduc- 
tion of  new  machinery,  and  with  the  same  jus- 
tice. The  boats  of  the  Or«ng-laut  are  mere 
canoes,  covered  by  a  light  shed  of  palm -leaves. 
We  saw  their  whole  families  on  board,  men, 
women,  and  children;  and  both  in  their  fishing 
and  management  of  the  boats,  the  women  ap- 
peared to  take  as  active  a  share  as  the  men. 

Feb.  2, — A  junk  which  arrived  a  few  days 
ago,  had  on  board  a  native  Cochin  Chinese  mer- 
chant, a  man  of  respectability  and  intelligence, 
who  paid  us  a  visit  to-day.  According  to  his 
statement,  the  French  are  in  considerable  num- 
bers in  different  parts  of  the  Cochin  Chinese 
empire,  but  they  are  mostly  religious  persons. 
He  states  that  a  French  frigate  came  to  the 
Port  of  Han,  or  Turan,  in  1819^  and  made  a 
demand  for  that  place  and  its  adjacent  territory. 
The  king  replied,  that  he  was  not  a  petty  Ma- 
lay prince  to  barter  his  dominions  for  money, 
and  ordered  the  ship  to  depart  forthwith.  Se- 
veral French  merchant-ships  have  also  visited 
Cochin  China  since  the  peace;  and  two  Ame- 
rican ships  have  obtained  full  cargoes  at  the 
Port  of  Saigon,  or  Longnai,  as  it  is  called  by  the 
Chinese. 

Feb.  8. — I  walked  this  morning  round  the 
walls  and  limits  of  the  ancient  town  of  Singa- 
pore, for  such  in  reality  had  been  the  site  of  our 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  69 

modem  settlement.     It  was  bounded  to  the  east 
by  the  sea,  to  the  north  by  a  wall,  and  to  the 
west  by  a  salt  creek  or  inlet  of  the  sea.     The 
inclosed  space  is  a  plain,   ending  in   a  hill  of 
considerable    extent,  and  a  hundred   and   fifty 
feet  in  height.     The  whole  is  a  kind  of  trian- 
gle, of  which   the  base  is   the  sea-side,  about 
a  mile   in  length.      The  wall,  which  is  about 
sixteen  feet  in  breadth  at  its  base,  and  at  pre- 
sent about  eight  or  nine  in  height,  runs  very 
near  a  mile  from  the  sea-coast  to  the  base  of  the 
hill,  until  it  meets  a  salt  marsh.     As  long  as  it 
continues  in  the  plain,  it  is  skirted  by  a  little 
rivulet  running  at  the  foot  of  it,  and  forming 
a  kind  of  moat ;  and  where  it  attains  the  elevated 
side  of  the  hill,  there  are  apparent  the  remains 
of  a  dry  ditch.     On  the  western  side,  which  ex- 
tends from  the  termination  of  the  wall  to  the 
sea^  the  distance,  like  that  of  the  northern  side, 
is  very  near  a  mile.    This  last  has  ^  the  natural 
and  strong  defence  of  a  salt  marsh,  overflown  at 
high- water,  and  of  a  deep  and  broad  creek.     In 
the  wall  there  are  no  traces  of  embrasul'es  or 
loop-holes ;  and  neither  on  the  sea-side,  nor  on 
that  skirted  by  the  creek  and  marsh,  is  there  any 
appearance  whatever  of  artifidal  defences.    We 
may  conclude  from  these  circumstances,  that  the 
works  of  Singapore  were  not  intended  against 
fire-arms,  or  an  attack  by  sea ;  or  that  if  the  lat- 
ter, the  inhabitanta  considered  themselves  strong 


TO  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

in  their  naval  force,  and  therefore  thought  any 
other  defences  in  that  quarter  superfluous. 

Feb.  4. — On  the  stony  point  which  forms  the 
western  side  of  the  entrance  of  the  salt  creek, 
on  which  the  modern  town  of  Singapore  is 
building,  there  was  discovered,  two  years  ago, 
a  tolerably  hard  block  of  sand-stone,  with  an  in- 
scription  upon  it.  This  1  examined  early  this 
morning.  The  stone,  in  shape,  is  a  rude  mass, 
and  formed  of  the  one-half  of  a  great  nodule 
broken  into  two  nearly  equal  parts  by  artificial 
means ;  for  the  two  portions  now  face  each 
other,  separated  at  the  base  by  a  distance  of 
not  more  than  two  feet  and  a  half,  and  reclin- 
ing opposite  to  each  other  at  an  angle  of  about 
forty  degrees.  It  is  upon  the  inner  surface  of 
the  stone  that  the  inscription  is  engraved.  The 
workmanship  is  far  ruder  than  any  thing  of  the 
kind  that  I  have  seen  in  Java  or  India;  and 
the  writing,^  perhaps  from  time,  in  some  degree, 
but  more  from  the  natural  decomposition  of  the 
rock,  so  much  obliterated  as  to  be  quite  illegible 
as  a  composition.  Here  and  there,  however,  a 
few  letters  seem  distinct  enough.  The  character 
is  rather  round  than  square.  It  is  probably  the 
Pali,  Qsr  religious  character  used  by  the  followers 
of  Buddha,  and  of  which  abundant  examples 
are  to  be  found  in  Java  and  Sumatra ;  while  no 
monuments  exist  in  these  countries  in  their  re- 
spective vernacular  alphabets.     The  only  remains 


AKD   COCHIN  CHINA.  71 

of  antiquity  at  Singapore,  besides  this  stone,  and 
the  wall  and  moat  before  mentioned,  are  contain* 
ed  on  the  hill  before  alluded  to.     After  being 
cleared  by  us  of  the  extensive  forest  which  cover- 
ed it,  it  is  now  clothed  with  a  fine  grassy  sward, 
and  forms  the  principal  beauty  of  the  new  set- 
tlement.     The    greater  part  of    the   west  and 
northern  side  of  the  mountain  is  covered  with  the 
remains  of  the  foundations  of  buildings,  some  comr 
posed  of  baked  brick  of  good  quality.     Among 
these  ruins,  the  most  distinguished  are  those  seat- 
ed on  a  square  terrace,  of  about  forty  feet  to  a 
side^  near  the  summit  of  the  hill.     On  the  edge 
of  this  terrace,  we  find  fourteen  large  blocks  of 
sand-stcme;   which,  from   the  hole  in  each,  had 
probably  been  the  pedestals  of  as  many  woodeui- 
posts  which  supported  the  building.     This  shows 
us,  at  once,  that  the  upper  part  of  the  structure 
was  of  perishable  materials ;  an  observation  which, 
no  doubt,  applies  to  the  rest  of  the  buildings 
as  well  as  to  this.     Within  the  square  terrace  is 
a  dreular  indosure,  formed  of  rough  sand-atones, 
in  the  centre  of  which  .is  a  well,  or  hollow, 
which  very  possibly  ccHitained  an  image;  for  I 
look  upon  the  building  to  have  been  a  place  of 
w(H*ship,  and,  from  its  appearance,  in  all  likeli- 
hood, a  temple  of  Buddha.     I  venture  farther 
to  conjecture,  that  the  other  rdics  of  antiquity 
on  the  hiU,  are  the  remains  of  monasteries  c^ 
the  priests  of  this  religion.     Another  terrace,  on 


72  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

the  north  declivity  of  the  hill,  nearly  of  the  same 
size,  is  said  to  have  been  the  burying-place  of 
Iskandar  Shah,  King  of  Singapore.  This  is  the 
prince  whom  tradition  describes  as  having  been 
driven  from  his  throne  by  the  Javanese,  in  the 
year  1252  of  the  Christian  era,  and  who  died 
at  Malacca,  not  converted  to  the  Mohammedan 
religion,  in  IS?^ ;  so  that  the  story  is  probably 
apocryphal.  Over  the  supposed  tomb  of  Iskan- 
dar, a  rude  structure  has  been  raised,  since  the 
formation  of  the  new  settlement,  to  which  Mo- 
hammedans, Hindus,  and  Chinese,  equally  resort 
to  do  homage.  It  is  remarkable,  that  many  of 
the  fruit-trees  cultivated  by  the  ancient  inhabi- 
tants of  Singapore  are  still  existing,  on  the  east- 
em  side  of  the  hill,  after  a  supposed  lapse  of 
near  six  hundred  years.  Here  we  find  the  durian, 
the  rambutan,  the  duku,  the  shaddock,  and  other 
fruit-trees  of  great  size ;  and  all  so  degenerated, 
except  the  two  first,  that  the  fruit  is  scarcely  to 
be  recognized. 

Among  the  ruins  are  found  various  descrip- 
tions of  pottery,  some  of  which  is  Chinese,  and 
some  native.  Fragments  of  this  are  in  great 
abundance.  In  the  same  situation  have  been 
found  Chinese  brass  coins  of  the  tenth  and 
eleventh  centuries.  The  earliest  is  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Ching  chung,  of  the  dynasty  of  Sung- 
chao,  who  died  in  the  year  967.  Another  is  of 
the  reign  of  Jin-chung,  of  the  same  dynasty^ 


AKD   COCHIN   CHINA.  73 

vr ho  died  in  1067 ;  and  a  third,  of  that  of  Shin- 
chung»  his  successor,  who  died  in  1085.  The 
discovery  of  these  coins  affords  some  confirma* 
tion  of  the  relations  which  fix  the  establishment 
of  the  Malays- at  Singapore,  in  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury.  It  should  be  remarked,  in  reference  to 
this  subject,  that  the  coins  of  China  were  in 
circulation  among  all  the  nations  of  the  Indian 
islands  before  they  adopted  the  Mohammedan 
religion,  or  had  any  intercourse  with  Europeans. 
They  are  dug  up  in  numbers  in  Java,  and  are 
stUl  the  only  money  used  by  the  unconverted 
natives  of  Bali. 

Feb.  6. — ^We  made  an  excursion  yesterday  to 
some  coral  banks  lying  am6ng  the  islands  which 
form  the  western  boundary  of  the  harbour  of 
Singapore.  These  banks  exhibit  the  strangest 
and  most  fantastic  forms  of  organic  life  that  can 
be  imagined,  in  the  various  shapes  of  corallines, 
madrepores,  asteria,  and  sponges.  In  still  deeper 
water,  and  off  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
island,  there  are  found  those  gigantic  sponges, 
which  are  peculiar  to  the  coast  of  Singapore, 
and  which  Europeans  have  called  Neptunian 
cups.  The  natives  brought  them  to  us  in  great 
numbers. 

Feb.  7.-^1  had  yesterday  a  farewell  visit  from 
the  commander  of  the  Siamese  ship  and  his 
pilot,  whom  I  had  so  often  met  at  Calcutta, 
and  more  recently  at  Fenang.      They  had  ar- 


74  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

rived    at    this    place  before  u^    and  had    be^ 
waiting,   like   ourselres,   for   the   abatement  of 
the  strength  of  the  north-east  monsoon  to  ^t)- 
ceed.     They  were  determined,  if  possible,  to  reach 
Siam  before  the  vernal  equinox; --the  period  of 
a  great  festival  of  the  worshippers  of  Buddha, 
and  which,  by  all  accounts,  is  celebrated  at  Siam 
with  much  solemnity.      Parts  of  their  invest- 
ment were  intended  for  the  celebration  of  the 
festival;   and  as  they  had  been  absent  fourteen 
months,  they  had  some  apprehension  of  the  bas- 
tinado, or  something  worse,  if  they  did  not  arrive 
without  farther  loss  of  time.     I  had  before  ob- 
tidned  from  them  a  great  deal  of  useful  informa- 
tion ;    but  as  we  approached  Siam  they  became 
much  more  shy  and  reserved,  and  now  oom- 
mimieated  nothing  without  a  strict  injunction 
to  secrecy.     They  constantly  resisted  our  solici- 
tations to  assist  in    translating    the   Governor- 
general's  letter  into   Siamese,  —  observing,  that 
the  communication  of  his  Majesty's  titles  would 
be  considered  as  the  divulgement  of  a  state  se- 
cret, which  might  cost   them  their  lives.     The 
commander,  who  spoke  Hindustani  imperfectly, 
passed  his   hand   over   his  neck  on   such  occa* 
sions,   to  represent    the   operation    of  a   sword, 
that  no  doiibt  might  be  entertained  of  the  na- 
ture of  his  apprehensions. 

Feb.  10. — Mr.   Finlayson  and  I  visited,   this 
morning,  a  Cochin  Chinese,  a  Chin-chew,  or  Fa- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  75 

kien,  and  a  Siamese  junk.*  Our  interpreter 
accompanied  us,  and  we  had  therefore  an  op- 
portunity  of  making  some  interesting  observa^ 
tions  regarding  their  internal  economy,  ma- 
nagement, and  trade.  We  were  received  by 
all  with  uncommon  civility  and  attention ;  but 
the  people  of  Fo-kien,  who  are  least  accus- 
tomed to  Europeans,  were  remarkable  for  the 
earnestness  of  their  hospitality,  which  much 
more  than  compensates  for  the  rusticity  and 
bluntness  of  their  manners.  They  pressed  us 
to  sit  down,  to  eat  with  them,  to  drink  tea 
with  them,  and  to  smoke  their  pipes ;  and  when 
we  apologized  for  the  number  of  our  inquiries, 
the  commander  assured  us,  that  we  did  them 
honour  by  taking  an  interest  in  their  affairs. 
It  is  the  custom,  when  persons  of  any  respec^ 
tability  visit  the  Chinese  junks,  to  beat  the 
gongs  at  their  arrival  and  departure;  and  this 
compliment  was  paid  to  us.  The  Cochin  Chi- 
nese junk  carried  4000  piculs,  or  was  of  the  bur- 
then of  about  240  tons.  Her  crew  consisted  of 
the  commander,  two  officers,  and  thirty-two  men  ; 
and  the  sailors  were  paid  for  the  voyage  from 
Saigun  to  Singapore,  calculated  to  last  about 
three  months,  at  the  rate  of  twenty  Spanish 
dollars  a-head,  which  gives  about  seven  Spanish 


*  Junk  is  apparently  an  European  corruption  of  the  Malay 
word  jungy  the  common  term  for  any  large  vessel. 


76  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

dollars  a-month,  being  equal  to  the  wages  of  an 
able  seaman  in  our  country ;   whereas,  the  quan- 
tity of  labour  he  performs,  even  in  his  own  way, 
amounts  numerically  to  only  one  half;    twice 
the  number  of  Chinese  being  required  to  the  same 
amount  of  tonnage  as  there  would  of  European 
mariners.    The  Chinese  sailors  are  of  course  fed, 
and  at  sea  receive  salt  pork,  salt  fish,  occasionally 
poultry,  with  rice,  and  sour  or  salt  krout;  and 
when  in  harbour,  they  receive  fresh  animal  food 
and  fresh  vegetables.    The  charge  of  feeding  a 
sailor  from  Cochin  China  is  reckoned  at  a   dol- 
lar and  a  quarter  a-month,  but  from  Canton  it 
amounts  to  full  three  dollars*    The  Fo-kien  junk 
was  a  small  vessel  of  1600  piculs,  or  near  ninety- 
five  tons;  and  the  Siamese  junk  was  of  1500 
piculs,  or  about  ninety  tons.     The  first,  cost  in 
the  river  of  Kamboja,  where  she  was  built,  4000 
dollars ;  and  would  have  cost  in  Canton,  had  she 
been  constructed  there,  5000.     The  second  was 
built  in  Fo-kien,  and   cost  no  less  than  3000 
dollars.     The  Siamese  junk   was  built  in    the 
river  of  Siam,  and  cost  only  1350  dollars.     The 
cost  of  building  per  ton,  according  to  this  state^ 
ment,  is  at  the  following  rates : 

DoIUn.  Cents. 

per  ton. 


Siamese  junk 

15 

Cochin  Chinese  do.     . 

16 

66 

Canton  do. 

20 

83 

Fo-kien  do. 

30 

58 

AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  77' 

It  ought,  however,  to  be  remarked,  that  the  Chi- 
nese junks  are  built  of  fir  ;  whereas,  the  Siamese 
one  has  her  upper  works  entirely  of  fine  teak, 
and  her  lower  of  a  hard,  durable  wood,  the  name 
of  which  I  could  hot  ascertain.  Admitting,  how- 
ever, that  the  materials  of  both  were  of  the 
same  quality,  we  have  here  exhibited  a  fair  com- 
parative scale  of  the  price  of  food,  labour,  and 
materials  in  the  different  countries  in  question ; 
for  the  degree  of  skill  must  be  supposed  to  be 
the  same,  the  Chinese  being,  in  all  these  cases, 
the  architects  and  workmen.  Labour  and  mate- 
rials are  cheapest  in  Slam  and  Kamboja ;  twenty- 
five  per  cent,  dearer  at  Canton ;  and  more  than 
one  hundred  per  cent,  dearer  in  Fo-kien,  which 
has,  notwithstanding,  by  far  the  largest  share  of 
the  foreign  Asiatic  trade  of  China. 

All  Chinese  junks  are,  with  trifling  variation, 
built  on  one  model,  indescribably  awkward  and 
clumsy;  but  from  which,  notwithstanding,  it  is 
forbidden  by  law  to  deviate.  In  point  of  con- 
venience of  structure,  they  are  much  inferior  to 
the  trading  craft  of  the  rudest  tribes  of  the  Indian 
islands;  a  circumstance  which,  notwithstanding 
the  superiority  of  the  Chinese  in  industry,  in- 
telligence, and  enterprise,  proves  a  serious  and 
indeed  insuperable  obstacle  to  any  great  success 
in  their  foreign  commerce.  The  hold  of  a  junk 
is,  as  is  well  known,  divided  into  compartments, 
across  the  vessel's  length.    The  number  of  these 


78  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

varies.  The  large  Cochin  Chinese  junk  which  we 
had  just  inspected  was  divided  into  six  compart- 
ments, and  the  small  Fo-kien  junk  into  no  les8 
than  fifteen.  All  the  compartments  are  sepa- 
rately watei'proof,  and  their  sole  intention  is  to 
add  strength  to  the  ship,  and,  ih  case  of  leaking, 
to  prevent  the  water  from  extending  beyond  the 
subdivision  in  which  the  leak  actually  takes  place. 
The  Chinese  are  ignorant  of  the  use  of  the  pump 
on  board  a  ship,  and  have  no  means  of  discharging 
the  water  but  by  hand-buckets. 

The  only  guide  of  the  Chinese  mariner  appears 
to  be  the  compass.  Each  of  the  junks  we  visited 
had  a  small  one  divided  into  twenty-four  parts,  as 
usual.  This  was  placed  close  to  the  little  temple 
near  the  stem  of  the  ship,  dedicated  to  the  pro- 
tecting deities  of  the  winds  and  seas,  which  is 
invariably  found  in  Chinese  vessels.  They  have 
no  instruments  whatever  for  observing  the  hea- 
venly bodies,  nor  any  means  even  of  determining 
a  vessel's  dead  reckoning,  and  they  keep  no  log 
or  journal.  When  the  wind  is  not  tolerably  fair, 
they  Can  make  little  progress.  When  the  wind 
is  aft,  however,  they  sail  tolerably  well.  The 
commander  of  the  Cochin  Chinese  junk  told  me, 
that  at  the  height  of  the  north-east  monsoon, 
he  sailed  right  before  the  wind  from  Pulo  Kon- 
dor,  on  the  coast  of  Kamboja.  to  Pulo  Timun, 
on  the  coast  of  the  Malay  peninsula,  in  three 
days  and  a  half,  a  distance  of  about  four  hun-* 


AVD  COCHIN   CHINA.  79 

dred  and  thirty  miles,  which  is  at  the  rate  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty-three  miles  a-day,  or  little 
mcnre  than  five  miles  an  hour.  With  the  winds 
which  he  had,  it  is  not  improbable  that  an  or- 
dinary English  merchant-ship  would  have  sailed 
at  least  eight  miles,  and  a  good  one  perhaps 
twice  the  distance  of  the  Chinese  junk.  By  the 
same  person's  account,  the  ordinary  rate  at  which 
money  can  be  borrowed  in  Cochin  China,  for  ma- 
ritime adventure,  is  forty-eight  per  cent,  and  the 
expected  rate  of  profits  is  proportional, — namely, 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  per  cent. 

The  commander  of  a  ship  is  usually  part  ow- 
ner of  her,  and  the  goods  are  received  on  freight, 
the  shippers  commonly  embarking  with  their  own 
property,  which,  however,  is  always  under  charge 
of  the  commander  during  the  voyage,  the  pro- 
prietors having  no  access  to  them.  On  the  Co- 
chin Chinese  junk,  the  rate  of  freight  paid  for 
goods  I  found  to  be  as  follows:  fine  goods,  as 
cottons  and  silk  stufis,  five  per  cent. ;  tea,  ten 
per  cent. ;  sugar,  twenty  per  cent. ;  and  rice, 
forty  per  cent.  In  the  Fo-kien  junk,  the  freight 
paid  for  black  tea  was  one  dollar  forty  cents 
per  picul;  which,  allowing  nine  and  a  half  pi- 
culs  for  each  ton,  is  at  the  rate  of  thirteen  dol- 
lars thirty  cents. 

While  on  the  subject  of  the  trade  and  naviga- 
tion of  the  Chinese,  I  may  take  the  opportunity 
of  mentioning  the  very  singular  species  of  ad- 


80  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

venture  carried  on  by  them  in  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
lacca, in  large  row-boats,  commonly  known  by 
the  native  name  of  prahu  pukat*  One  of  these 
which  I  measured,  was  about  sixty-five  feet  long, 
nine  feet  in  the  beam,  and  about  four  feet  in 
depth,  and  carried  a  cargo  of  from  one  hundred 
and  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  ninety  piculs,  or 
near  twenty  tons.  She  was  rowed  by  twelve  oars 
and  fourteen  paddles,  and  had  the  occasional  as- 
sistance of  a  sail  with  fair  winds.  She  had  a 
crew,  consisting  of  the  conunander  and  twent}'- 
six  rowers.  Such  a  boat  is  usually  the  property 
of  the  commander,  and  the  cargo  belongs  to  the 
crew,  each  according  to  the  capital  he  has  con- 
tributed to  the  joint  adventure.  There  is  not 
one  idle  person  on  board  ;  for  the  commander 
steers,  and  each  of  the  adventurers  has  his  oar 
or  his  paddle.  Their  adventures  are  confined  be- 
tween the  islands  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
Straits  of  Malacca,  and  tlie  town  of  that  name, 
out  of  the  influence  of  the  monsoons,  and  under 
the  protection  of  the  variable  winds  which  cha- 
racterize these  latitudes.!  From  the  rapidity  of 
their  course,  they  are  quite  secure  from  the  at- 
tack of  pirates.     The  voyage  backwards  and  for- 

*  liitendly  a  seine-boat, — ^tbis  description  of  vessel  having 
probably  been  first  used  for  fishing  with  a  net  of  that  descrip- 
tion* 

t  In  the  westerly  monsoon  they  often  pass  out  of  the  Straits 
of  Malacca,  visiting  the  different  trading  ports  on  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  Malay  Peninsula. 


:/:  a.^LA..'k 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  81 

wards,  may,  of  course,  be  performed  at  every 
season.  In  fair  weather,  one  of  them  will  sail 
between  the  Island  of  Linga  and  Singapore  in 
two  days ;  and  in  the  least  favourable  weather, 
in  six ;  performing  the  voyage,  therefore,  on  an 
average,  in  four  days.  The  distance  is  about 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles;  so  that  these 
boats  go,  under  the  most  favourable  circum- 
stances, at  the  rate  of  ninety  miles  a-day,^or  close 
upon  four  knots  an  hour,  and,  at  an  average, 
forty-five  miles  a-day.  Three  voyages  may  be 
performed  in  a  month,  if  the  state  of  the  markets 
do  not  occasion  extraordinary  delays.  When 
pepper  is  the  cargo,  as  very  frequently  happens, 
the  adventurers  are  contented,  I  am  told,  with 
a  profit  of  three-fourths  of  a  dollar  per  picul, 
when  the  selling  price  of  this  commodity  is  ten 
dollars.  This  supposes  a  profit  of  8ro  per  cent, 
on  each  adventure. 

During  the  last  month  I  had  many  personal 
and  favourable  opportunities  of  inquiring  into 
the  manners  and  habits  of  the  Or^ng-laut.  The 
term  is  used  to  characterize  the  race  of  Malays 
who  have  their  habitations  exclusively  on  the 
sea,  in  opposition  to  those  who  have  fixed  abodes 
on  shore,  —  the  Or&ng-darat,  or  "  men  of  dry 
land."  They  are  sometimes  called  Or^ng-sS.lat, 
or  **  men  of  the  straits,**  under  which  appella- 
tion they  have  been  stigmatized  for  their  piracy 
as  long  ago  as  the  time  of  John  De  Barros,  whose 

VOL.   I.  4^ 


82  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

work  was  composed  in  the  sixteenth  century. 
At  other  times  we  hear  them  called  ByoU^  or 
♦*  Subjects ;" — that  is  to  say,  subjects  of  the  kmg 
of  Jehar ;  but  under  this  name,  too,  their  repu- 
tation is  no  better,  for  the  Western  Malays  use 
the  term  Jehor  as  synonymous  with  that  of  pi- 
rate or  robber.  I  had  no  conception  that  any 
of  the  tribes  bearing  the  Malay  name  were  in  so 
low  a  state  of  civilization  '  as  these  people  are. 
By  far  the  greater  number  of  them  are  bom, 
live,  and  die  in  their  miserable  canoes,  and  the 
few  who  live  occasionally  on  shoie  are  scarcely 
more  comfortably  situated.  These  are  ignorant 
of  the  culture  of  rice,  and  plant  very  few  roots, 
neither  do  they  cultivate  the  cocoa  nut,  a  plant 
which  conduces  so  much  to  the  comfort  of  the 
other  tribes  of  the  eastern  islands.  The  plantaui, 
or  banana,  from  the  rapidity  of  its  growth,  and 
the  volume  of  food  which  it  supplies,  is  the 
great  object  of  their  attention  in  an  agricultu- 
ral view.  Whether  their  habitation  be  on  land 
or  water,  fishing  is  the  great  employment  of  the 
Od(ng4aut;  and  what  Jhey  do  not  consume 
themselves,  forms  the  only  fund  from  which  they 
are  supplied  with  the  other  common  necessaries  of 
life.  In  their  general  character,  they  are  indo- 
lent, improvident,  and  defective  in  personal  clean- 
liness. Like  the  other  islanders,  however,  they 
are  neither  selfish,  cunning,  nor  mendacious.  In 
their  external  demeanour  they  are  clownish^  their, 


AKD  COGfilN   CHINA.  88 

Planners  unoeremotiiaus,  and  their  dialect  un- 
eouth ;  but,  withal,  their  behayiour  is  neither  rude 
nor  disrespectful.  Of  the  character  they  e!jchifait 
in  their  predatory  excursions,  I  am  not  oomipe^ 
tent  to  judge,  but  it  is  sufficiently  bad. 

A  more  accurate  test,  however,  of  this  people's 
state  in  society  than  can  be  conveyed  by  a  gene* 
ral  description,  is  afforded  by  a  short  sketch 
of  the  actual  expense  of  their  mode  of  life.  A 
house  costs  about  five  dx>U&rs,  and  the  best  sel- 
dom above  twenty.  A  dwelling  boat  costs  no 
mofe  than  six  dollars,  and  a  fishing  canoe  about 
four.  The  only  ^imiture,  if  there  is  any  at 
all,  is  a  bedstead  and  pillows,  worth  four  doU 
lars,  and  a  cast-iron  cooking-pot,  of  Chinese  or 
Siamese  manufactiure,  worth  about  half  a  dollar. 
With  the  art  of  weaving  these  people  are  ut* 
teily  unacquainted,  and,  as  far  as  they  are  do* 
thed  at  all,  they  are  clothed  in  foreign  manu<^ 
fiactures.  The  sarong,  or  lower  garment^  of  both 
sexes,  is  the  manufacture  of  Celebes;  it  costs 
four  dollars,  and  lasts  four  years.  The  turban» 
or  rather  handkerchief,  which  binds  the  head  of 
the  men,  is  the  manufacture  of  the  same  coun* 
try ;  it  costs  half  a  dollar,  and  lasts  at  least  as 
long  as  the  sarong.  The  vest  of  both  sexes  is 
white  doth  of  Coromandel,  or  at  least  what  has 
once  been  white.  The  principal  vegetable  food 
of  the  (Mng-laut  is  crude  sago,  which  is  not 
the  produce  of  their  own  country,  but  received 

G  2 


84  EMBASSY    TO   SI  AM 

by  them  from  certain  low  islands  on  the  north 
coast  of  Sumatra,  where  it  is  produced  in  great 
abundance.  Rice  is  looked  upon  as  a  superior 
food,  and  even  as  a  luxury ;  as  much  so,  at  least, 
as  wheat  would  be  considered  by  an  Irish  pea- 
sant. Sago  is  purchased  on  the  coast  of  Suma- 
tra, in  cakes  weighing  about  seventeen  pounds 
each,  at  the  rate  of  something  less  than  half  a 
dollar  a  picul  of  1S8^  pounds,  and  is  commonly 
consumed  by  the  Or^ng-laut,  at  the  price  of 
about  two-thirds  of  a  dollar  for  the  same  quan- 
tity. A  moderate  price  for  rice  among  the  same 
people  is  S^  dollars  per  picul ;  so  that  this  grain 
is  weight  for  weight  five  times  the  price  of  sago. 
It  is  however  considered  2^  times  more  nutri- 
tious, or  each  portion  of  rice  goes  as  far  as  2} 
portions  of  sago, — ^making  the  real  cost  of  sago, 
considered  simply  as  an  article  of  nutrition,  equal 
to  If  dollar  per  picul.  The  difference  of  price 
beyond  this  is  supposed  to  be  made  up  by  the 
superior  agreeableness  of  rice  as  an  article  of  diet 
J  have  no  doubt,  the  cheapness  of  sago,  and  the 
facility  of  obtaining  fish,  contribute  materially  to 
impede  the  progress  of  civilization  among  them. 
Did  they  not  live  in  a  state  of  great  anarchy 
and  disorder,  it  is  probable  that  with  such  food 
they  would  become  as  numerous  as  abject.  The 
^ggf^g&te  eixpenses  of  one  of  these  demi-savages, 
it  may  be  inferred  from  the  statement  now  given, 
will  not  exceed  a  dollar  and  half  monthly ;  and 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  85 

this  in  a  situation  where  the  lowest  description 
of  vegetable  food,  on  which  he  can  exist,  will 
alone  cost  him  nearly  three-fourths  of  this 
amount* 

*  It  is  proper  here  to  observe,  that  the  establishment  of 
the  European  settlements  has  produced  a  great  and  salutary 
ehange  in  the  habits  and  manners  of  such  of  these  people  as 
reside  neari  or  at  our  establishments.  The  change  which  a  few 
years  have  effected  at  Singapore  is  very  striking. 


86*  EMBASSY   TO  SIAH 


CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  from  Singapore  Passage  to  the  Coast  of  Borneo- 
Malayan  Islands  in  the  Channel. — Visit  to  Pnlo-Ubi,  and 
Description  of  it. — Numerous  islands  on  the  eastern  coast 
of  the  Gulf  of  Siam.— Island  of  Phu-kok  described — Arri- 
val in  the  roads  of  Siam. 

Feb.  25. — ^The  violence  of  the  easterly  mon- 
soon detained  us  at  Singapore  until  this  day; 
when,  the  weather  becoming  more  moderate,  we 
weighed  anchor  and  sailed  in  prosecution  of  our 
voyage.  At  night,  the  ebb-tide  failing,  we  an- 
chored off  the  coast  of  Jehor,  about  thirty  miles 
distant  from  the  town  of  that  name,  where  tlie 
Malays  established  their  Government,  when  driven 
by  the  Portuguese  from  Malacca,  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  sixteenth  century.  That  place  is  si- 
tuated ten  miles  up  a  navigable  river,  the  mouth 
of  which  is  opposite  to  the  east  end  of  the  Island 
of  Singapore.  It  has  been  long  abandoned  as 
the  seat  of  Gk)vemment,  and  is  at  present  no 
more  than  a  poor  village  of  fishermen. 

Feb.  26. — We  weighed  anchor  this  morning, 


AKD  COCHIN  CHINA.  87 

and,  in  passing  down,  spoke  the  Topaze  frigate,^ 
the  ship  which  had  an  affray  with  the  Chinese, 
in  which  some  lives  were  lost,  and  which  occa^ 
sioned  a  considerable  sensation,  both  in  England 
and  in  India.  She  had  been  but  eight  days 
from  Manilla;  which  afforded  us,  going  in  an 
opposite  direction,  no  -very  favourable  prospect  of 
a  speedy  passage. 

Feb.  27. — We  anchored  again  last  evening. 
Being  dose  to  the  shore,  Mr.  Finlayson,  Mr. 
Rutherford,  and  myself,  landed.  The  spot  was 
within  a  few  mUes  of  the  extremity  of  the 
peninsula.  Here  the  shore  was  bold,  and  the 
land  elevated ;  but  the  chain  of  mountains  which 
pervades  the  northern  part  of  the  peninsula,  has 
long  ceased,  and  the  formation  of  the  land  is 
scarcely  hilly.  The  same  deep  forest  prevails  as 
elsewhere,  and,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see,  no 
trace  of  human  habitation  was  discoverable.  On 
the  coast,  frequent  ledges  of  rock  ran  into  the 
sea,  between  which  are  small  sandy  bays,  where 
it  is  easy  to  land.  The  wood  was  so  close,  that 
we  found  it  difficult  to  penetrate ;  and  we  were 
dissuaded  from  persevering  in  the  attempt,  from 
observing  on  the  sand  the  tracks  of  hog  and 
deer,  and  of  a  leopard,  or  young  tiger.  The  rocky 
formation  is  porphyritic  homstone,  containing 
small  grained  crystals  of  felspar  of  a  pink  co* 
lour.  From  its  hardness  it  would  admit  a  fine 
polish,  and  is  probably  well  fitted  for  statuary 


88  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

and  ornamental  architecture.  The  wild  and  de- 
solate woods  of  this  part  of  the  peninsula  are 
known  to  be  inhabited  by  a  few  naked  and  wan- 
dering savages.  The  whole  coast,  from  Johor  to 
the  extremity  of  the  peninsula,  affords  good  an- 
chorage and  shelter,  and  several  situations  not 
inferior,  in  convenience  for  a  commercial  empo- 
rium, to  Singapore  itself. 

We  weighed  anchor  early  this  morning,  and 
at  eleven  o'clock  passed  Cape  Romania  and  Pe- 
dro Branca.  We  had  no  sooner  lost  the  shelter 
of  the  Malay  coast,  than  we  felt  the  full  force 
of  the  monsoon.  There  was  a  heavy  swell  of  the 
sea,  and  a  strong  southerly  current  The  course 
along  the  western  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Siam  was 
evidently  difficult  or  impracticable.  We  there- 
fore stood  across  for  the  coast  of  Borneo,  in- 
tending tp  make  our  northing  under  shelter  of 
that  island,  and  then  to  stand  across  the  China 
Sea  for  the  Point  of  Kamboja,  from  whence  an 
easy  passage  might  be  effected  to  the  head  of  the 
Gulf  of  Siam. 

Feb.  28. — The  wind  keeping  well  to  the  north, 
favoured  our  passage  to  Borneo.  At  noon,  the 
little  island  called  Victory  in  the  charts,  was  vi- 
sible from  the  mast-head,  and  at  eight  o'clock 
at  night  we  passed  close  to  windward  of  Saddle 
Island,  which  lies  in  latitude  l""  16'  north.  This 
small  island  rises  abruptly  and  precipitately  from 
the  sea  to  the  height  of  four  or  five  hundred  feet. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  89 

We  passed  witliin  three  hundred  yards  of  it^  and 
observed  the  white  surge  breaking  loud  and  high 
upon  its  rocky  coast.  Situated  as  we  were,  it 
would  have  been  more  prudent  to  have  passed 
to  leeward  of  it ;  for  any  trifling  accident  might 
have  driven  us  upon  its  coast,  and  this,  from 
the  state  of  the  weather,  must  have  been  at- 
tended with  the  total  loss  of  the  ship. 

March  1. — Early  this  morning,  the  Island  of 
Tambilan  was  visible  on  our  lee-quarter.  This  is 
inhabited  by  true  Malays,  very  poor  and  very 
inoffensive.  It  forms  a  portion  of  the  territory  of 
Jehor. 

March  S. — The  high  land  of  Borneo  was  in 
flight  yesterday  afternoon,  and  at  daybreak  this 
morning  we  found  ourselves  within  a  few  miles 
of  the  coast,  opposite  to  three  conical  mountains 
of  great  elevation.  Our  meridian  observation 
made  us  in  l""  33'  north  ;  so  that  we  were  twenty 
miles  to  windward  of  the  entrance  of  the  great 
river  of  Sambas,  between  which  and  that  of 
Pontiana  lies'  the  country  so  well  known  in  these 
parts  for  its  extensive  production  of  gold.  We 
had  no  sooner  approached  the  coast  of  Borneo, 
than  the  water  became  smooth,  the  winds  variable, 
and  there  was  no  longer  a  southerly  current. 

March  4. — High  Island,  or  Sapata,  so  adled  in 
the  maritime  charts,  and  the  most  southern  of  the 
group  denominated  the  Natunas,  was  visible  yes- 
terday, and  we  passed  this  iboming  within  a  few 


90  EMBASSY   TO   SIAH 

hundred  yards  of  a  small  island  lying  off  its  ooast 
Sapata  is  the  island  called  Sarasan  by  the  Malays; 
and  the  great  Natuna,  a  very  large  island,  they 
denominate  Bangoran.    The  name  Natuna  is  not 
known  in  their  language,  and,  it  is  probable,  was 
imposed  by  the  Portuguese.    The  Natunas,  like 
Tambilan,  are  inhabited  by  true  Malays,  subject 
to  Johor.     As  we  passed  dose  to  Sarasan,  we  had 
a  good  opportunity  of  observing  its  general  as- 
pect    It  is  about  seven  or  eight  miles  in  length, 
with  a  bold  coast,  and  it  is  high  land  throughout. 
A  few  fields  of  mountain-rice  were  discernible 
towards  the  south  end. 

Early  this  morning  we  passed  a  dangerous 
reef,  two  miles  in  length,  which  was  not  laid 
down  in  our  charts.  This  part  of  the  coast  of 
Borneo  has  not  been  much  frequented  by  Eu- 
ropean navigators.  Off  the  north  end  of  Sara^ 
san,  there  are  no  less  than  six  islands  not  deli- 
neated in  the  ordinary  diarts.  The  north-east 
monsoon  having  returned  with  considerable  fcMQpe, 
our  progress  was  very  slow. 

March  7. — On  the  morning  of  the  6th,  the  sky 
was  overcast,  and  the  wind  veering  round  to  the 
south-west,  with  much  thunder  and  rain,  we  were 
unable  to  stand  our  course ;  but  to-day  the  mon- 
soon, returning,  blew  so  favourably  as  to  enable 
us  to  stand  at  once  for  the  Cape  of  Kamboja. 

Mturch  10. — ^The  wind  continuing  favourable, 
we  crossed  the  China  Seas  with  clear,  serene,  and 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  91 

pleasant  weather,  the  thermometer  at  noon  heing 
seldom  above  seventy-nine.  At  six-  o'clock  this 
morning,  Pulo  Ubi  was  in  sight,  and  at  noon 
we  saw  the  shore  of  Kamboja,  the  lowest  land 
which  it  is  possible  to  imagine ;  for  the  trees  ap- 
pear as  if  they  were  actually  growing  out  of  the 
water;  and  this  indeed  is  no  doubt  the  fact, 
those  on  the  border  of  the  sea  probably  consist* 
ing,  as  usual  *  within  the  tropics,  of  the  rhizo- 
phora,  or  mangrove.  As  we  approached  the  land 
of  Kamboja^ — and  the  same  appearance  prevailed 
until  we  passed  Pulo  Ubi,. —  the  water  was  as 
disturbed  and  muddy  as  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Ganges,  in  the  westerly  monsoon.  This,  as  I 
afterwards  understood,  was  occasioned  by  the 
nver  of  Camao,  called  by  the  Kambojans,  from 
the  abundance  of  mud  which  it  carries  along 
with  it,  Takmao,  or  the  "black  stream."  At 
three  in  the  afternoon,  we  landed  on  Pulo  Ubi, 
and  spent  two  or  three  hours  in  rambling  over 
the  hills.  In  a  little  sheltered  cpve  and  valley/ 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  place  where  the 
ship  lay  at  anchor,  we  saw  a  single  but,  with 
some  persons  moving  round  it,  and  we  rowed 
towards  the  spot.  As  we  approached  the  shore; 
a  Uttle  elderly  mm,  with  a  long  grey  beard,  ran 
out  upon  a  pier  of  stones  cloise  to  the  landing- 
place,  ai)d  with  many  gesticulations,  but  in  a 
language  whioh  none  of  our  party  understood, 
^e^med  to  warn  us  pot  to  land.    We  payed  no 


92  EMBASSV  TO   SIAM 

attention  to  his  remonstrances,  but  landed  with- 
out hesitation.  On  observing  this,  he  came  up 
to  us  with  an  air  of  entire  confidence,  and  in- 
vited us  to  his  hut,  earnestly  pressing  us  to 
partake  of  his  simple  hospitality.  After  this 
first  meeting,  there  was  neither  shyness  nor 
distrust  displayed  by  the  poor  inhabitants  of 
Pulo  Ubi.  These  proved  to  be  eight  Cochin 
Chinese,  and  two  Chinese  of  the  Island  of  Hai- 
nan. Through  the  latter  we  made  oiurselves  in- 
telligible. One  of  the  party  only  was  a  woman, 
and  there  were  two  or  three  children,  of  whom 
she  was  the  mother.  In  the  little  valley  whidi 
surrounds  the  bay,  tliere  is  a  scanty  cultivati<»i 
of  maize,  sweet  potatoes,  and  some  coarse  escu- 
lent greens;  but  all  this  was  evidently  inade- 
quate to  the  subsistence  of  the  inhabitants,  who 
derived  their  chief  supply  from  the  charity  or 
piety  of  the  Chinese  traders,  who  are  in  the  ha- 
bit of  touching  at  the  island  to  water,  in  their 
voyages  up  and  down  the  Gulf  of  Siam.  It  is 
not  improbable  they  may  derive  occasional  as- 
sistance from  the  use  of  a  species  of  dio9carea, 
with  an  enormous  root,  which  grows  wild  in 
the  woods.  These  weigh  forty  and  fifty  pounds 
each.  The  pits  from  which  they  had  been  dug 
out,  were  seen  by  us  in  several  places  as  we 
walked  through  the  woods.  The  only  domestic 
animals  which  we  saw  were  a  few  hogs.  Some 
European  writers  have  reported,  that  the  inhabi- 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  9S 

tants  of  Pulo  Ubi  are  persons  banished  for  their 
crimes ;  but  there  seems  no  foundation  whatever 
for  this  opinion.  The  old  man,  our  first  ac- 
quaintance, turned  out  to  be  a  priest.  He  had, 
by  his  own  account,  been  twenty  years  on  the 
island ;  and  his  business  was  to  officiate  at  a 
small  temple,  dedicated  to  a  certain  deity,  called 
Ma^ho-po,  a  sort  of  Chinese  Amphitrite.  Chi- 
nese mariners  make  votive  offerings  to  this  wor- 
thy, whose  image  we  saw  in  the  temple  in  ques- 
tion, with  a  wax  taper  burning  on  each  side. 
Close  to  the  image  was  suspended  on  strings 
twenty  or  thirty  small  painted  boards,  with  in. 
scriptions  on  them; — the  offerings  of  as  many 
junks  which  had  touched  at  Pulo  Ubi  to  water 
or  take  a  fresh  departure,  in  the  course  of  the 
season. 

Pulo  Ubi  has  several  smaller  islands  lying  off 
it,  and  is  itself  about  two  miles  in  length ;  bold 
elevated  land  every  where,  the  highest  hills  ap*. 
p^aring  about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  The  thin  soil  seemed  every  where 
to  rest  upon  an  extremely  hard,  small  grained, 
grey  granite, — a  circumstance  which,  taken  to- 
gether with  the  extreme  steepness  of  the  hills, 
seems  naturally  to  account  for  the  unsuitable- 
ness  of  the  place  for  culture  and  occupation. 
The  woods  on  the  hills  of  Pulo  Ubi  are  com- 
posed of  trees  of  a  dwarfish  size,  and  there  is 
no  large  tiiober.    A  species  of  banana,  or  plan- 


94  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

tain,  the  muM  trcglodytarum,  was  frequoit  in 
the  forest.  The  only  quadruped  which  these 
woods  afford,  according  to  the  natives,  is  a  smaA 
.species  of  squirrel,  of  which  we  saw  several 
individuals.  Close  to  the  sea*side  were  ev«y 
where  to  be  seen  flying  from  tree  to  tree  num- 
bers of  white  pigeons,  with  the  end  of  the  wings 
and  tail,  to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches, 
of  a  jet  black.  This  bird  is  an  inhabitant  of 
the  coasts  of  many  of  the  smaller  islands  of  the 
Indian  Archipelago,  and  has  been  described  un- 
der the  name  of  Colomba  UttaraUs.  The  name 
Pulo  Ubi  is  Malay,  and  not  improbably  derived 
from  the  large  species  of  dioscorea,  or  yam,  to 
which  I  have  above  alluded ; — the  term  mean- 
ing, in  Malay,  literally,  the  Island  of  Yams. 
From  very  early  ages,  an  intercourse  has  ex- 
isted between  the  Kambojans  and  the  Malays; 
and  considerable  numbers  of  the  latter  are  not 
only  at  present  settled  at  Kamboja,  but  Malayan 
rovers  still  continue  to  infest  its  coast  by  their 
depredations.  The  island,  in  the  language  of 
Kamboja,  is  called  Ko  Tam-bung;  in  Cochin 
Chinese,  Kon-gui ;  and  in  Siamese,  Ko-Man ; — 
all  of  which  terms,  I  understand,  have  the  same 
signification  as  the  Malayan  name. 

We  embarked  in  the  afternoon,  and  the  na** 
tives  soon  followed  us  on  board ;  which  gave  us 
an  opportunity  of  requiting  their  kindness^  by 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  9fi 

presenting  them  with  a  little  rice,  tea,  dothea, 
and  some  money. 

March  11. — We  sailed  from  Pulo  Ubi  last 
night,  and  this  morning  passed  false  Pulo  Ubi^ 
in  the  latitude  of  8%  56;  and  longitude  104%  SS' 
east  The  land  of  Kamboja  was  still  as  low  as 
when  we  first  discovered  it,  but  the  water  was 
no  longer  muddy  and  discoloured.  We  had  now 
regular  land  and  sea  breezes,  and  the  weather  was 
remarkably  fine. 

March  12. — Having  discovered,  in  the  course 
of  this  day's  sailing,  that  the  coasts  and  islands, 
were,  as  indeed  we  expected,  very  erroneously 
laid  down  in  the  ordinary  charts,  we  resolved 
not  to  proceed  at  night,  but  come  to  an  anchor, 
which  we  did  at  ten  o'clock  in  six  fathoms. 
At  day-lM'eak  this  morning  we  found  ourselves 
surrounded  by  islands  of  various  size,  from  mere 
rocks  with  a  few  trees  upon  them,  to  those  that 
were  five  and  six  miles  in  length.  The  eastern 
coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Siam  was  probably  never 
muich  frequented  by  European  navigators,  and 
has  not,  that  I  know  of,  beep  visited  by  them 
at  all  within  the  last  century.  It  is  no  won* 
der,  therefore,  that  it  should  be  erroneously  deli- 
neated. 

At  six  in  the  morning  we  weighed  anchor, 
and  weiie  soon  in  sight  of  a  very  singular 
group  of  islands,  consisting  of  one  large  island. 


96  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

ntbout  four  miles  in  length,  encircled  by  a  ring 
of  smaller  islands,  of  which  I  counted  twenty. 
This  is  the  group  called  in  the  charts  Hon- 
co-thron;  but  correctly,  Hon-co-tre.  The  name 
is  from  the  Anam,  or  Cochin  Chinese  laii« 
guage.  At  ten  o'clock  it  fell  cahn,  and  we 
landed  on  a  small  island  close  to  us.  This, 
which  was  not  a  mile  in  circumference,  was 
covered  with  low  trees.  The  rocky  formation 
was  potstone,  with  compact  feldspar:  I  found, 
however,  a  rolled  piece  of  granite  on  the  shore, 
although  no  vestige  of  this  rock  was  <[iscoveN 
able  in  the  interior,  which  we  travelled  over. 

In  the  evening  we  again  landed  upon  another 
islet  not  far  from  the  last.  This  also  was  en- 
tirely composed  of  potstone.  On  both  these 
islets  we  found,  in  great  numbers,  the  same 
white  pigeons  which  we  saw  at  Pulo  Ubi. 
Three  sail  of  vessels  were  seen  in  the  course 
of  the  day,  which  we  took  to  be  Chinese  or 
Cochin  Chinese  junks. 

March  18. — We  came  to  an  anchor  again  last 
night,  being  still  surrounded  by  innumerable 
islands^  respecting  which,  both  our  charts  and 
directions  were  silent.  We  sailed  this  morn- 
ing in  the  direction  of  a  large  island  which 
lay  north-west  of  us. 

March  14. — ^We  anchored  close  to  the  large 
island,  and  conjectured,  from  the  number  of  fish- 
ing4x)ats  which  were  sailing  up  and  down  the 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  97 

coast,  that  it  was  inhabited.  Several  of  these 
boats  came  close  to  us  this  morning,  and  the 
people  seemed  anxious  to  pay  us  a  visit;  but, 
their  fears  being  greater  than  their  curiosity, 
they  finally  left  us,  without  venturing  to  come 
on  board.  We  were  compelled  at  length  to 
lower  one  of  our  boats,  and  on  holding  out  a 
white  flag  from  it,  a  few,  at  length,  visited  us. 
They  proved  to  be  Cochin  Chinese ;  and  through 
the  few  words  of  Siamese  which  they  knew,  they 
gave  us  to  understand,  that  if  we  landed  we 
should  receive  a  hospitable  reception. 

A  large  party  of  us  accordingly  landed  at  one 
in  the  afternoon,  purposely  unaccompanied  by 
any  part  of  the  military  escort,  that  no  alarm 
might  be  excited.  Some  of  the  natives  waited 
our  arrival  on  the  beach,  armed  -with  long  spears^ 
and,  by  their  gestures  and  vociferations,  warned 
us  to  keep  off.  We  took  no  manner  of  notice 
of  these  remonstrances,  but  leaped  on  shore, 
and  walked  up  to  them  at  once.  They  soon 
recognized  among  our  party  our  Chinese  in« 
terpreters  and  servants,  and  some  of  themselves 
being  Chinese  of  the  Island  of  Hai-nan,  all  was 
soon  confidence  and  cordiality  betwixt  us.  They 
informed  us  that  our  s  was  the  first  European 
ship  which  they  had  ever  seen;  and  we  learn* 
ed,  that  upon  our  first  appearance  they  had  sent 
their  women  and  valuables  into  the  forest.  The 
first  surprise  being  over,  they  invited  us  to  their 

VOL.   I.  H 


98  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

houses,  and  offered  us  both  food  and  betel.  We 
gained  their  favour  by  oflPering  them  small  spe- 
cimens of  English  cutlery  and  other  trifles.  I 
observed  that  the  women  and  children  crowded 
round  us  as  well  as  the  men,  and  that  the  for- 
mer betrayed  no  symptoms  of  Oriental  reserve 
or  fastidiousness.  In  their  persons,  these  peo- 
ple, of  both  sexes,  were  short,  squat,  and  ill- 
favoured.  They  paid  small  attention  to  deanli- 
ness,  either  in  their  dress  or  habitations.  They 
were  evidently  very  poor,  and,  after  they  had 
experienced  our  little  bounty,  made  no  scruple 
in  asking  for  every  little  trifle  about  our  per- 
sons that  excited  their  notice.  After  walking 
several  miles  along  the  coast,  and  looking  at 
every  thing  we  thought  worth  seeing,  we  re- 
turned on  board  in  the  evening,  two  of  the 
principal  people  accompanying  us.  These  per- 
sons were  so  well  pleased  with  their  reception, 
that  they  insisted  upon  passing  the  night  on 
board.  They  partook  heartily  of  our  fare,  and 
especially  made  free'  use  of  our  brandy  and  li- 
queurs, to  the  neglect  of  tea  and  all  other  thin 
beverages.  They  were  as  communicative  on  the 
subject  of  the  island,  as  our  imperfect  means  of 
understanding  each  other  would  admit.  This 
consisted  in  one  of  the  Chiefs  and  our  Chinese 
interpreter  writing  question  and  answer  in  the 
Chinese  character,  without  attempting  to  ex- 
change one  syllable  with  each  other  orally.   The 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  99 

Chinese  character  is,  as  is  well  known,  a  lim- 
guage  only  to  the  eye,  and  understood  by  all 
•the  nations  from  the  spot  we  were  now  in,  to 
Japan  and  Corea  eastward,  who  in  this  sort  of 
pantomime  can  understand  each  other,  howev^ 
different  their  vernacular  languages. 

The  place  which  we  had  now  visited  is  called 
by  the  Cochin  Chinese,  Fhu-kok,  and  by  the 
Siamese  Koh-dud,  or  the  **  far  island ;''  the  last 
name  having  reference  to  its  relative  distance, 
compared  to  other  islands,  from  the  coast  of 
Kamboja.  In  the  Kambojan  language  it  is  call- 
ed Koh-trol,  or  **  shuttle  island,"  which  is  evi- 
dently the  Quadrole  of  the  old  maps.  It  is  the 
largest  island  on  the  east  coast  of  the  Gulf  of 
Siam,  being  by  our  reckoning  not  less  than 
thirty-four  irdles  in  length.  It  is  commonly 
bold  high  land,  the  highest  hills  rising  to  seven 
or  dght  hundred  feet.  A  few  spots  here  and 
there  on  the  coasts  only  are  inhabited, — the  rest 
being,  as  usual,  covered  with  a  grciat  forest 
which,  we  were  told,  contained  abundance  of 
deer,  hogs,  wild  bu£Paloes,  and  oxen,  but  no  leo- 
pards or  tigers.  Its  most  valuable  produce,  how- 
ever, is  the  lignum  aloes,  or  agUa.  All  the  hilly 
countries  and  islands  on  this  part  of  the  coast 
of  the  Gulf  of  Siam  abound  in  this  production. 
We  used  every  endeavour  to  obtain  specimens 
of  the  tree  in  a  fit  state  for  botanical  descrip- 
tion, but  without   success.      The  ligni^m  aloes* 

H  2 


100  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

-  by  the  account  of  the  natives^  is  a  diseased  por- 
tion of  the  wood.  The  tree,  one  of  the  tallest 
of  the  forest,  is  sufficiently  common  ;  but  not  so 
the  individuals  in  a  diseased  state ;  and  henoe 
the  high  price  of  the  odoriferous  substance. 
They  showed  us  several  large  portions  of  the 
timber  in  its  ordinary  state,  and  presented  us  also 
.with  pieces  of  the  fragrant  wood,  recently  ex- 
tracted.* 

The  inhabitants  of-Phu-kok  were  desmbedto 
us  as  amounting  to  from  four  to  five  thousand, 
^  of  the  true  Cochin  Chinese  race,  with  the  ex- 
-ception  of  a  few  occasional  Chinese  sojourners. 
They  grow  no  species  of  com,  and  their  hus- 
bandry is  confined  to  a  few  coarse  fruits,  and 
esculent  green  vegetables,  and  farinaceous  roots. 
Of  the  last,  the  best  and  most  abundant  was  the 
Convolvulus  Batata.  They  import  their  rice  from 
Kang-kao,  which  lies  opposite,  and  is  an  abun- 
dant grain  country.  The  inhabitants  of  Phu-kok 
seemed  to  us  to  be  all  fishermen,  and  the  east- 
ern shore  of  the  island  had  the  appearance  of  a 
place  well  suited  for  their  occupation.  It  was  an 
extensive  bank,  having  frequent  overfalls.  The 
fishing-boats  were  seen  sailing,  in  considerable 
numbers,  up  and  down  the  coast.  "These  were 
managed  with  much  dexterity,  and  were  alto- 
gether the  smartest  vessels  of  the  kind  which  I 

*  Tlic  tree  is  frequent  in  tlie  woods  of  Singapore. 


AMD  COCHIN   CHINA*  101 

had  seen  in  any  part  of  India.  Their  rigging 
consisted  of  two  shoulder-of-mutton  sails,  made 
qf  a  very  white  mat^  which  had  a  neat  appear* 
ance.  The  fishery  of  tripang,  or  hedi-de-mar,  was 
conducted  near  the  shore  in  two  and  three  feet 
water.  This  was  carried  on  in  small  canoes,  in 
which  there  was  one  person  only,  who  stood  up 
in  the  boat  with  a  spear  in  his  hand,  and  struck 
the  animals  as  they  presented  themselves. .  Num* 
bers  of  persons  were  thus  employed  as  we  came- 
oflP  in  the  evening. 

March  15. — Our  guests  took  leave  of  us  this 
morning,  and  at  eight  o'clock  we  set  sail  with 
the  intention  of  going  round  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  island.  The  natives  had  indeed 
informed  us,  (and  we  afterwards  found,  from  good 
information,  their  statement  to  be  perfectly  cor- 
rect,) that  there  was  a  good  navigable  channel 
between  Fhu-kok  and  the  main ;  but  we  did  not 
think  it  safe  to  place  implicit  reliance  upon  this 
account.  We  now  sailed,  therefore,  in  a  south- 
erly direction  along  the  coast  of  Phu-kok,  and 
in  the  evening,  when  it  fell  calm,  we  anchored 
off  a  small  bay,  close  to  the  south  end  of  the 
island.  Several  fishing-boats  were  seen,  and  at 
night  the  lights  from  a  village  in  the  bay  were 
sufficiently  distinct. 

.  March  16. — At  eleven  o'clock  last  night,  a  stiif 
gale  of  wind  c^me  on  from  the  south-east,  mak* 
ing  the  island  a  lee-shore,  and  the  ship  dragged 


108  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

her  anchor.  This  obliged  us  to  get  under  weigh, 
which  we  effected  with  considerable  difBcully. 
The  heavy  swell  compelled  us  to  wear  the  ship, 
in  which  manoeuvre  the  water  shoaled  so  ra- 
pidly, as  to  put  us  to  considerable  risk  of  suf- 
fering shipwreck.  As  we  sailed  along,  we  now 
saw  that  much  of  what  we  had  hitherto  consi- 
dered as  portion  of  the  great  island,  was  a  chain 
of  islets^  twelve  in  number,  extending  from  its 
southern  extremity.  The  water,  as  we  approached 
these,  deepened  so  as  to  enable  us  to  sail  within 
two  or  three  hundred  yards  of  them,  in  twelve 
and  thirteen  fathoms.  The  gale  of  wind  which 
we  experienced  through  the  night  was  of  short 
continuance,  and  at  one  o'clock  we  had  a  dead 
calm;  this  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  landing 
upon  several  of  the  small  islets  in  question. 
The  rocky  formation  here  was  sand-stone,  with 
immense  masses  of  imbedded  conglomerate.  We 
had  no  opportunity  of  making  any  geological  re- 
marks at  Phu-kok  itself,  the  coast  where  we 
landed  consisting  every  where  of  a  long  sandy 
plain,  in  which  no  rock  was  exposed;  and  the 
hills  in  the  interior  being  every  where  distant 
several  miles,  as  well  as  rendered  difficult  of 
access  by  a  deep  forest.  At  the  small  islets, 
the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide  struck  us  to  be  re- 
markably great  for  so  low  a  latitude.  It  ap- 
peared from  the  high-water  mark  on  the  rocks, 
not  to  be  less  than  eighteen  feet;  whereas  the 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  103 

usual  rise  in  this  part  of  the  world,  within  a  few 
degrees  of  the  equator  at  least,  seldom  exceeds 
eight  or  nine  feet.  The  hotany  of  these  islands, 
proved  extremely  interesting.  Among  other 
forest  plants  we  found  the  cashew-nut  tree  (Ana- 
cardium)y  which  is  commonly  supposed  to  be 
exclusively  a  native  of  America,  in  full  beaiv 
ihg.  A  greater  quantity  ci  sea-fowl  than  usual, 
so  near  the  equator,  were  seen  upon  the  rocks 
interspersed  amongst  the  islands.  They  consist- 
ed of  gulls  (Larus)^  sea  swallows  (Sterna)^  and 
noddies  (Sterna  stolida).  Several  of  the  last^ 
with  their  usual  stupidity,  lighted  on  the  ship, 
and  suffered  themselves  to  be  taken  without 
difficulty.  All  these  small  islands  seemed  des* 
titute  of  inhabitants. 

My  poor  friend,  Mr.  Finlayson,  caught,  from 
the  severe  exertions  he  made  to-day  under  a 
burning  sun,  the  malady  which  afterwards 
proved  fatal  to  him ;  and  which,  during  the 
remainder  of  the  voyage,  unfortunately  depriv* 
ed  me  of  the  active  exercise  of  his  valuable 
talents. 

March  17. — This  morning  we  stood  on  our 
course  to  Siam,  along  the  western  side  of  the 
island  of  Phu*kok,  with  a  favourable  breeze 
from  the  east.  Just  as  we  were  making  sail,  a 
very  smart  Chinese  junk,  which  had  lain  at  an* 
chor  dose  to  us  during  the  night,  came  down 
and  spoke  us  with  perfect  confidence.    She  be- 


104  EMBASSY    TO   8IAM 

longed  to  |the  island  of  Hai-nan,  being  one  of 
the  many  junks  which  trade  between  that  place 
and  the  capital  of  Siam,  to  which  last  port  she 
was  now  bound  like  ourselves.  We  met  two 
more  junks  in  the  course  of  the  day.  At 
three  in  the  afternoon  we  had  reached  the 
northern  extremity  of  Phu-kok,  which  is  divid-^ 
ed  by  a  narrow  channel  from  another  island, 
the  first  of  a  chain  running  in  a  northerly 
direction  to  the  distance  of  seventeen  or  eigh- 
teen miles.  In  the  course  of  this  day's  sailing 
we  saw  a  few  fishing-boats.  At  dusk,  a  group 
of  islands,  seven  in  number,  caUed,  in  the  Sia- 
mese language,  Hwi-su,  distant  about  seventeen 
miles,  was  in  sight.  No  notice  whatever  is  taken 
of  this  group  in  the  ordinary  charts.  Indeed, 
the  whole  of  this  coast  is  perhaps  less  known 
to  European  navigators  than  any  portion  of  the 
globe  of  equal  magnitude  and  importance.  Our 
charts  and  maps,  indeed,  are  thickly  studded 
with  islands;  but  they  are  without  names,  and 
put  down  at  random,  all  that  is  known  re- 
garding them,  being  that  they  exist  in  great 
numbers. 

March  18. — As  every  thing  now  appeared 
clear  ahead  of  us,  we  did  not  anchor  last  night, 
as  wef  had  done  for  some  days  before,  but  pro- 
ceeded without  interruption.  The  Chinese  junk 
which  spoke  us  yesterday  morning,  was  still 
close  to  us,  although  we  had  a  seven*knot  breeze 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  105 

during  the  night*  This  afforded  us  an  oppor-^ 
tunity  of  judging  what  this  description  of  vesw 
sels  is  capable  of  doing,  when  going  with  a  fair 
wind,  as  upon  the  present  occasion.  Some  of 
them,  it  would  appear,  are  nearly  a  match  for 
an  European  vessel.  On  the  other  hand,  from 
their  flat  construction,  the  Chinese  junk  is  quite 
incapable  of  beating  against  a  foul  wind,  and 
of  course  in  the  utmost  danger  when  such  a  re- 
source is  called  for. 

March  20.— During  the  18th  and  19th  we 
were  out  of  sight  of  land,  but  to-day  close  in 
with  the  continent  in  the  latitude  of  12^  88' 
and  longitude  101  **  30'  East.  Two  ranges  of 
mountains,  of  considerable  height,  formed  the 
background  before  us,  between  which  and  the 
sea  was  an  extensive  tract  of  lower  land.  The 
mountains  which  we  now  saw,  were  those  which 
lie  to  the  northward  of  Chan-ti-bon,  one  of  the 
most  productive  and  populous  districts  of  the 
kingdom  of  Siam,  abounding  in  rice,  pepper, 
gamboge,  and  cardamums.  This  portion  of  the 
coast,  in  opposition  to  that  which  we  had  be- 
fore passed,  was  open  and  unsheltered.  One 
small  rocky  island  was  close  to  us,  and  upon 
this  a  party  landed,  while  we  waited  for  the 
sea-breeze«  •  It  was  so  surrounded  by  reefs  that, 
although  perfectly  calm,  it  was  difficult  to  find 
a  place  to  land  upon.  Its  shores  had  every^- 
where    the   appearance  of   a  place    much    fre- 


106  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

quented  by  fish— the  sea  for  miles  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood being  covered  i¥ith  spermatic  animal* 
culas.  There  were  numbers  of  sea-fowl  on  the 
rocks,  and  shoals  of  porpoises  sporting  about  the 
shore.  Some  of  the  latter  pursued  their  prey 
into  such  shallow  water,  that  we  were  en^ 
couraged  to  make  our  boatmen  wade  out,  with 
the  hope  of  intercepting  th^n  and  forcing  them 
to  run  ashore,  but  in  this  expectation  we  did 
not  succeed.  Several  fishing  stakes  were  set 
on  the  shore  of  the  island  next  to  the  conti- 
nent, and  the  fresh  footsteps  of  the  fishermen 
were  visible  in  the  sand;  but  we  saw  nobody, 
and  there  were  no  habitations.  This  island  is 
formed  of  granite  and  quartz  rock,  and  is 
about  five  miles  distant  from  the  mainland. 

March  21. — A  numerous  group  oi  islands  lay 
before  us  last  evening,  and  we  found  it  therefore 
prudent  to  come  to  ^  anchor  for  the  night 
We  weighed  at  four  this  morning,  and  at  ten 
came  up  with  the  islands  in  question.  With  the 
view  of  shortening  our  course,  we  passed  the 
channel  which  divides  them  from  a  promont<»7 
on  the  main,  caUed  by  the  Siamese,  Sam-me-san, 
and  in  our  charts,  Lyant  This  channel,  which 
is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  and  about  two 
miles  in  length,  we  passed  with  a  light,  but  a 
leading  wind,  encountering  no  dangers,  and  never 
having  less  than  four  and  a  half  fathoms  water. 
Our  boat  went  ahead  of  us  all  the  way,  sounding. 


AND   COCHIN  china;  107 

We  found  two  small  junks  lying  at  anchor  here, 
and  we  afterwards  heard  that  the  channel  was  a 
common  route  for  the  largest  vessels  of  this  de^ 
scription.  The  scene,  as  soon  as  we  entered,  was 
striking  and  picturesque.  The  shore  on  each  side 
consisted  of  a  series  of  sandy  coves,  and  the 
country  of  a  succession  of  hills,  here  and  there  bare 
of  wood,  pressing  upon  each  other  down  to  the 
sea.  No  habitations  were  to  be  seen,  except  those 
of  a  few  fishermen  on  the  coast,  and  the  interior 
seemed  to  be  an  universal  wilderness.  We  spoke 
one  small  vessel,  with  a  Siamese  crew,  two  days 
from  Bang-kok,  and  from  her  we  acquired  the 
names  of  some  of  the  principal  islands  and  head-' 
lands.  The  group  of  islands  now  passed  is  much 
frequented  by  turtle,  the  collection  of  the  eggs  of 
which  is  a  business  of  some  importance,  and  is  said 
to  bring  a  considerable  revenue  into  the  Siamese 
treasury.  We  found  the  latitude  of  Cape  L3rant 
to  be  ISr  86'  80",  which  is  ten  miles  farther  north 
than  it  is  laid  down  in  the  charts,  and  its  longi- 
tude,  by  two  good  chronometers,  101**  11'  East, 
being  sixteen  miles  farther  west  than  it  is  usually 
delineated. 

March  22.— A  great  many  islands  were  in  sight 
last  night,  and  we  had  them  this  morning  on  our 
starboard,  for  we  did  not  think  it  safe  to  proceed 
during  the  night  in  the  channel  between  them 
and  the  main.  This,  however,  we  afterwards 
learned  is  a  common  route  of  the  largest  Chinese 


108^  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM* 

junks,  and  is  perfectly  safe.  Many  of  the  largest 
islands  in  question  are  inhabited,  such  as  Ko* 
kram  and  Ko-han.  The  inhabitants  are  a  mixture 
of  Siamese  and  Cochin  Chinese,  for  the  latter 
people,  although  the  country  be  under  the  domi- 
nion of  Siam,  have  penetrated  thus  far  to  the  north. 
At  noon  we  were  in  the  latitude  of  18**  8'.  The 
high  mountains  of  Bang-pa^-soe  were  in  sight  to 
tlie  eastward,  but  no  land  ahead.  By  our  reckon- 
ing, however,  we  were  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
roads  of  Siam,  and  at  five  in  the  afternoon  we 
QBtme  in  sight  of  them,  which  we  only  ascertained 
by  discovering  three  large  Chinese  junks  lying  at 
anchor,  for  the  land  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  was 
extremely  low,  and  not  yet  visible.  At  seven 
o'clock  we  anchored  in  3f  fathoms  water,  close  to 
tlie  junks^  having  thus  performed  the  voyage 
from  the  Straits  of  Malacca  with  ease  in  twenty- 
thi:ee  days. 


Tiik     «   *1   VI »      I 


Ifont  of  the  main  Boilding  of  the  King  of  8Um^  Palaco. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Communication  of  our  Arrival  made  to  the  Court  of  Siam. 
— Entertainment  given  to  the  Mission. — Negotiation  for 
proceeding  to  the  Capital — Ship  ascends  the  River^  ap^ 
pearance  of  its  Banks. — Arrival  at  Bang-kok,  appeanuu^ 
of  the  place. — Delivery  of  the  Governor-general's  Letter. 
— Visit  to  the  Prah-klang,  or  Foreign  Minister — Delivery 
of  the  presents  for  the  King. — The  Mission  lands. — De- 
scription of  its  Residence. — Visit  to  the  Prince  Krom- 
chiat^  now  King  of  Siam. — Arrangement  of  the  Ceremo- 
nial for  our  Presentation  to  the  King. — Second  Visit  i» 
the  Foreign  Minister. — The  Mission  presented  to  the 
King. — Description  of  the  Ceremony. —Inspection  of  the 
White  Elephants,  Sec, — The  Mission  receives  a  visits  an^ 
is  entertained  by  the   Foreign  Minister. 

March  24. — As  soon  as  we  had  come  to  an 
anchor,    we    prepared    a    letter    for    the  Pxah- 


110  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

Idang)*  or  minister  \irho  conducts  the  affairs  of 
strangers.  In  this  we  briefly  informed  him  of  our 
arrival,  the  number  of  our  party,  and  such  other 
particulars  of  the  same  nature^  as  we  were  given 
to  understand  would  be  expected.  This  was  trans- 
mitted, early  yesterday  morning,  by  one  of  the 
officers  of  the  ship  to  Fak-nam,f  the  first  sta- 
tion in  ascending  the  river.  The  officer  re- 
turned this  morning  with  a  civil  message  from 
the  Chief  of  Pak-nam,  accompanied  by  a  present 
of  fruit,  and  he  brought  with  him  a  pilot  to 
conduct  us  over  the  bar. 

March  25. — At  seven  o'clock  this  morning  we 
weighed  anchor,  and  attempted  to  cross  the  bar  ; 
but  when  about  half-way  over,  the  ship  struck 
in  the  soft  mud,  in  which,  as  the  tide  fell,  she 
sunk  four  feet.  We  had,  at  the  same  time,  not 
above  four  feet  water.  As  the  evening  tide  made, 
she  floated,  and  we  crossed  the  bar  without  sus- 
taining any  injury.  A  strong  and  favourable 
breeze  soon  carried  us  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Menam,  a  distance  of  not  less  than  ten  miles 
from  the  outer  edge  of  the  bar,  ploughing  al- 
most all  the  way  through  the  thin  ooze ;  and  at 
seven  o'clock  at  night  we  anchored  off  the  village 
of  Pak-nam,  about  two  miles  and  a  half  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  upon  its  left  bank. 

*  Literally^  Lord  or  Master  of  the  Warehouses, 
t  The  word  means  mouth  of  the  river^  or  rather  water ;  it  u» 
applied  to  the  debimcheur  of  aaj  river. 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  Ill 

March  26. — A  Portuguese  interpreter,  dis- 
patched from  the  Court,  came  on  board  this 
morning.  He  brought  a  message  from  the  Chief 
of  Fak-nam,  the  purport  of  which  was,  that  he 
had  received  instructions  from  the  Court  to  en^ 
tertain  us,  and  that  a  barge  had  been  sent  down 
to  bring  us  to  the  Capital,  but  that  before  the 
ship  proceeded  it  would  be  necessary  to  land  our 
guns,  according  to  invariable  usage  in  such  cases. 
We  returned  a  dvil  answer,  and  sent  the  chief  a 
small  present,  taking  this  occasion  to  remonstrate 
against  the  landing  of  our  guns,  as  well  as  to  sig* 
nify  to  him  that  one  boat  was  totally  inadequate 
to  the  accommodation  of  so  large  a  party  as  ours. 
In  the  forenoon  his  nephew  came  on  board,  to 
wait  upon  us.  He  stated  that  the  orders  of  the 
governor  on  the  subject  of  landing  the  cannon  of 
foreign  ships  were  peremptory,  and  could  not  be 
dispensed  with,  but  that  a  reference  would  be 
made  to  the  Court  for  instructions.  On  the  sub^* 
ject  of  the  barge,  it  was  explained  that  the 
numbers  of  our  party  were  not  known,  or  more 
accommodation  would  have  been  furnished.  This 
Was  not  true,  for  we  had  stated  the  exact  num- 
ber of  the  party  in  the  letter  to  the  Prah-klang, 
and  the  circumstance  of  sending  a  single  boat 
only,  was  evidently  an  early  attempt  to  underrate 
the  Mission  and  the  authority  by  which  it  wad 
sent.  A  temperate  resistance  therefore,  ^however 
unpleasant,  became  necessary. 


im  EMBASSY   TO    SI  AM 

Our  visitor  had  brought  an  invitation  to  our 
party  to  land  in  the  evening,  and  partake  of  an 
entertainment  which  the  chief  had  prepared  for 
us.      This,  after  some  hesitation,   was  accepted, 
and  at  the  landing-place  we  were  met  by  the  Go* 
vemofs  nephew,  who  escorted  us  to  the  chiefs 
house.    A  crowd  of  men,  women,  and  children, 
were  collected  out  of  curiosity,  the  greatest  share 
of  which    seemed    to   be  directed   toward^   out 
Indian    servants,    whose   neat,    gay,   and   dean 
attire,  formed  a  striking  contrast  to  their  own 
rude  and  slovenly  semi-nudity.     After  passing  a 
short   way  through    mean  lanes  crowded   with 
huts,  we  came  upon  the  dwelling  of  his  Excel- 
lency the  Grovemor,  formed  of  the  same  mean 
and  perishable  materials  as  the  rest.     We  were 
ushered  into  a  large  apartment,  raised  a  few  feet 
from  the  ground,  on  a  platform  of  split  bamboos, 
which    formed   the    floor.      The    thatch    within 
was  ill  concealed  by  broken  and  soiled  Chinese 
paper-hangingSy  and  from  the  roof  was  suspended 
a  motley  collection  of  old  Dutch  chandeliers  of 
miserable  glass,  and  Siamese  and  Chinese  lamps, 
covered  with  dust,  with  cobwebs,  and  with  the 
smoke  of  oil,  incense,  and  tobacco.     The  Cover- 
nor  civilly  met  us  at  the  door,>  and  shook  liands 
with  us  very  heartily  in  the  European  fashion. 
Chaii'S  were  placed  for  our  accommodation.     This 
chief  was  a  man  about  forty-five  years  of  age, 
of  rugged  features,  but  cheerful  manners,  and 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  113 

he  seemed  desirous  to  please.  His  nephew,  who 
had  ushered  us  in,*  and  his  secretary,  sat  upon 
a  carpet  before  him.  A  messenger,  who  had  jiisi 
arrived  from  the  Court,  and  who  was  deputed 
to  conduct  iis  thither,  was  also  present.  The 
name,  or  rather  the  title,  of  this  person,  with 
whom  the  Mission  had  afterwards  a  good  deal  of 
intercourse,  was  Luang  kochai-asa-hak,  formerly 
Nakhoda  Ali.  He  was  one  of  those  Mohamme- 
dan adventurers  whose  ancestors  had  come  several 
ages  ago  from  the  coast  of  Coromandel.  He 
had  visited  Queda,  Penang,  and  Calcutta,  and 
spoke  the  Malayan  language  tolerably,  for  which 
reason  it  was  that  he  was  selected  to  attend  us^. 
In  the  centre  of  the  apartment  we  found  a  table 
laid  out  in  the  European  fashion,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Portuguese  interpreters,  with 
plates,  knives,  forks,  silver  spoons,  and  some  toler^ 
able  English  glass-ware.  It  was  loaded  with 
viands,  such  as  pcnrk,  fo.wls,  ducks,  egg,  and  rice, 
and  with  abundance  of  fruit,  particularly  man« 
goes,  oranges,  and  lichis,  all  of  which  were  iii 
season. 

A  curtain,  which  was  suspended  across  one 
end  of  the  apartment,  attracted  our  notice.  We 
were  told,  to  our  surprise,  that  behind  it  lay  in 
state  the  body  of  the  late  chief  of  Pak-nam. 
This  person  was  brother  to  the  present  chief, 
and  the  father  of  the  young  person  who  had 
visited  us'  in  the  forenopn.     This  last,  indeed, 

VOL.   I.  I 


114  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

had  then  informed  iis  that  his  father  had  died 
five  months  ago;  that  his  body  was  lying  em- 
balmed at  Pak-nam,  and  that  his  funeral  would 
take  place  on  the  24th  day  of  the  present 
moon;  but  we  had  certainly  no  idea  that  we 
were  to  be  favoured  with  the  presence  of  the 
deceased  during  the  repast  to  which  we  had 
been  invited.  Mr.  Finlayson  and  Mr.  Ruther- 
furd,  when  they  landed  the  following  morning, 
their  curiosity  being  strongly  excited  on  the  sub- 
ject of  the  body  which  was  lying  in  state,  ven- 
tured  to  make  some  inquiry  concat)ing  it  Their 
questions  were  by  no  means  taken  amiss  by  the 
son,  to  whom  they  were  addressed,  but  considered 
rather  complimentary;  and  he  invited  them 
without  ceremony  to  view  the  body.  It  waS 
lying  in  a  coffin,  which  was  covered  with  tinsel 
and  white  doth,  and  the  lid  of  which  when 
removed  exhibited  the  corpse  wrapped  up  in  a 
great  many  folds  of  cloth,  like  an  Egjrptian 
mummy,  apparently  quite  dry,  and  covered  with 
such  a  profusion  of  aromatics,  that  there  was 
nothing  offensive  about  it, 

The  chief  alone  sat  down  at  table  with  us, 
but  without  partaking  of  our  fare.  He  was  assi« 
duous  in  pressing  us  to  the  good  things  which 
were  placed  before  us.  My  interpreter  explained 
to  me,  that  he  requested  us  to  **  eat  hearUly  and 
not  be  abashed'' — a  customary  form  of  compli- 
ment, it  appears,  among  the  Siamese,  in  address- 


AND  COCHIM   CHIXA.  115 

ing  a  guest.  No  questions  respecting  the  objects 
of  the  Mission  were  put  to  us  during  the  enter- 
tainment, and  I  considered  the  visit  as  a  matter 
of  mere  form  and  etiquette,  but  in  this  I  was 
much  deceived ;  for  the  repast  was  no  sooner 
over,  than  question  followed  question  with  great 
vivacity.  We  were  first  bluntly  asked  what  was 
the  object  of  the  Mission.  We  answered  in  ge- 
neral terms  that  the  English  and  Siamese  nations 
were  ndghbours,  and  that  on  our  part  we  were 
desirous  that  a  friendly  and  frequent  intercourse 
should  subsist  between  us,  and  that  we  were  de- 
puted to  request  such  an  intercourse.  This  did 
not  satisfy  the  diief ;  he  urged  us  over  and  over 
to  state  what  particular  request  or  demands  we 
had  to  make  of  the  Court  upon  the  present  oo- 
casion.  We  declined  giving  him  the  satisfaction 
he  required;  observing,  that  in  proper  time  and 
place  we  should  explain  ourselves  fully.  We 
were  next  requested  to  state  the  quality  and 
amount  of  the  presents  brought  for  the  IQng, 
and  a  secretary  placed  himself  behind  the  chief 
to  take  notes  of  what  was  said  on  this  subject-— 
one  apparently  of  the  first  interest.  We  evaded 
^ving  any  answer,  except  in  very  general  terms* 
but  were  cross-questioned  with  dexterity  and  per^ 
severance.  I  had  noticed  that  among  the  pre- 
sents there  were  some  fire-arms.  The  chief 
begged  to  know  their  number.  I  said  a  few 
hundreds.     He  begged  me  to  conjecture  some 

I  2 


116  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

approximation  to  the  actual  number,  I  added, 
probably  three  or  four  hundred.  The  answer 
was,  *'be  good  enough  to  say  either  the  one  or 
the  other."  I  endeavoured  to  divert  the  chiefs 
attention  from  the  detail  of  muslins,  broadcloths, 
crystal,  looking-glasses,  and  such  matters,  by  caU« 
ing  his  attention  to  an  English  horse,  which  was 
one  of  the  presents.  He  immediately  requested 
to  know  his  height,  his  age,  his  colour,'  the 
Iragth  of  his  tail,  and  finally,  what  fortunate 
or  unfortunate  marks  he  had  about  him«  We 
put  an  'Cnd  to  all  this  importunity,  by  inform- 
irig  the  Governor,  that  as  soon  as  we  returned 
to. the  ship,  we  would  direct  a  derk  to  make 
out  a  list  of  the  presents  for  his  satisfaction. 
"  This  conversation  afforded  an  early,  but  a  good 
specimen  of  the  indelicacy  and  rapadty  which 
we  afterwards  found  so  characteristic  of  the 
Siamese  Court  and  its  officers,  upon  every  ques^ 
tion  of  a  similar  nature. 

After  the  discussion  respecting  the  presents, 
the  chief  reminded  us  of  the  compliment  which 
his  Siamese  Majesty  had  paid  the  Mission,  in 
so  promptly  dispatching  an  accommodation^boat 
to  convey  us  to  Bang-kok ;  and  he  entreated 
us  to  make  no  difficulty  about  accepting  this 
gracious  mark  of  royal  attention,  while  he  be^ 
isoitght  us  also  to  comply  with  the  established 
usage  in  landing  the  gims  of  the  ship.     We 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  117 

repeated  what  we  had  said  before,  of  the  total 
inadequacy  of  a  single  boat  to  accommodate  our 
large  party,  which  consisted  of  seventy-four  per- 
sons. With  respect  to  landing  the  cannon,  we 
stated  that  a  Portuguese  man-of-war  had,  two 
years  before,  been  permitted  to  visit  the  capital, 
and  that  a  Mission  from  the  British  Government 
had  a  right  to  be  treated  with  equal  favour. 
Much  pains  were  taken  to  convince  us,  that  it 
•would  be  proper  to  comply  with  the  wishes  of 
the  Court,  but  we  persevered  in  our  objections. 
With  this  discussion  our  visit  ended.  It  was  a 
striking  contrast  to  European  usage,  that  the 
whole  of  this  demi-official'  conversation  passed 
in  the  presence  and  hearing  of  a  great  crowd 
of  the  lower  orders,  who  occupied  the  entire 
area  of  the  court,  opposite  to  the  place  where 
we  sat.  The  people  indeed  pressed  up  to  the 
,very  door  of  the  saloon.  The  chiefs  by  no 
means  checked  their  curiosity,  and  on  their  part 
they  listened  to  what  passed  with  respectful  at^ 
tention. 

What  we  saw  in  our  visit  to  Pak-nam,  was 
not  calculated  to  impress  us  with  a  very  exalted 
opinion  of  the  prepress  of  *the  Siamese  nation  in 
the  arts  which  conduce  to  the  comforts  or  reason- 
able enjoyments  of  life.  The  cottage  of  an  Eng- 
lish peasant,  not  on  the  brink  of  a  workhouse, 
possesses  more  real  comfort  than  did  the  mansion 


118  £MBASSY   TO   SIAM 

of  the  Gk)vemor  of  Pak-nam,  who,  as  we  were 
told,  exercised  an  arbitrary  authority  over  50,000 
people, 

March  28. — As  soon  as  I  had  returned  to  the 
ship  after  my  visit  to  Pak-nam,  I  addressed  a  let- 
ter to  the  Prah-klang,  recapitulating  what  I  had 
urged  to  the  chief  of  that  place,  on  the  subject 
of  our  conveyance  to  the  capital  and  the  landing 
of  our  guns.    Yesterday  no  answer  was  received, 
but  this  morning  Kodiiai-asa-hak,  who,  in  the  in- 
terval, had  been  at  Bang-kok,  came  on  board, 
to  inform  us  that  the  Court  had  given  us  per- 
mission to  ascend  the  river  with  our  cannon,  or, 
in  case  we  prefixed  going  in  boats  supplied  by 
the  Court,    that  a  sufficient  number  would  be 
sent  down  in  a  few  days.     We  adopted  the  plan 
of  going  up  in  the  ship,  as  the  most  independ- 
'  ent,  speedy,  and  commodious ;  and  at  ten  o'clock 
we  began  to  ascend  tiie  river  against  the  tide, 
but  with  a  strong  breese  in  our  favour.     The 
liver  at  its  mouth  and  up  to  Pak-nam  is  about 
a  mile  wide,  but  shortly  after  diminishes  to  one^ 
liaJf  of  this  width, — a  breadth  which,  with  few 
exceptions,  it  preserves  all  the  way  to  Bang- 
kok.     Opposite  to  Pak-nam  tiiere  is  a  sand-bank, 
bare  at  low- water,*  and  a  few  miles  beyond  it  the 

*  Oar  oontesl  with  the  Burmans  «o  dlAraned  ihe  Siaiaese, 
that  during  its  progress  they  fortified  Pak-nam  with  the  sand- 
bank mentioned  in  the  text.  On  these  works  there  are  said  to 
be  mounted  about  200  pieces  of  heavy  ordnance,  some  of  which 


AKB  COCHIN  CHINA.  119 

ruins  of  a  small  brick  fort,  built  by  the  Dutch^ 
about  a  century  and  a  half  ago,  when  they  car<- 
ried  on  a  trade  with  Siam.  This  last,  by  the  enr 
croachment  of  the  river,  is  now  within  the  stream, 
and  covered  at  high-water.  These  two,  and  they 
are  easily  avoided,  constitute  the  only  dangers  of 
the  M^iam,  from  its  mouth  to  the  capital.  Af- 
ter passing  them,  a  ship  may  range  from  side  to 
inde  of  the  river,  with  from  seven  to  ten  fa- 
thorns  water,  approaching  so  near  to  the  banks 
diat  her  yards  may  literally  overhang  them.  At 
one  o'dock  we  reached  a  couple  of  forts,  or  re^ 
doubts,  of  Qoasonry, — one  on  each  side  of  the 
river, — which  is  here  considerably  contracted* 
The  neighbourhood  is  occupied  by  a  colony  of 
Uie  people  of  Fegue  and  Lao,  refugees  from  the 
territoiy  disputed  between  the  Burmans  and  Sia- 
mese. A  flag  was  hoisted  from  both  forts,  imd 
we  were  serenaded  by  a  Peguan  band  <^  music 
as  we  passed.  A  well-dressed  chief,  in  the  Bur- 
man  or  Fegue  costume,  came  on  board  here, 
bringing  us  two  boat  loads  of  fruits  and  other 
refreshment. 

Close  to  the  river,  and  at  least   for  twdve 

are  good  English  guns^  but  the  greater  Dumber  brass-cannon, 
cast  at  Bang-koky  and  of  die  worst  description.  In  the  hands 
of  a  people  of  anj  courage  or  military  skilly  these  fortification^ 
would  reader  the  access  to  the  capital  impregnable.  Sudi, 
howeyer,  is  the  ignorance  and  pusillanimity  of  the  Siamese^  that, 
in  all  likelihood,  they  would  prove  no  serious  impediment  to  an 
attack  by  European  sapping. 


ISO  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

miles  up,  the  land  appears  to  be  unfit  for  cul- 
ture, owing  to  the  saltness  of  the  water,  which 
occasionally  overflows  it.  All  this  tract  is  occu- 
pied by  rhizophoras,  and  by  the  cocos-nypa,  the 
leaf  of  which  is  so  abundantly  used  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  tropical  India  as  thatch.  Beyond  this 
again,  and  all  the  way  to  the  capital,  the  banks 
of  the  river  are  more  elevated,  and  the  coun- 
try as  far  as  we  could  observe  it,  presented  every 
where  a  rich  extent  of  cultivation,  consisting  of 
rice-fields,  interspersed  with  numerous  villages, 
surrounded  by  orchards  of  palm  and  fruit-trees. 
The  rice  stubble  was  on  the  ground,  for  the  crop 
had  been  reaped  two  months  before,  and  among 
it  were  grazing  numerous  herds  of  buffaloes,  the 
only  description  of  cattle  which  were  to  be  seen. 
This  appearance  of  fertility  and  industry  formed 
a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  waste  of  rocks,  moun- 
tains, and  impenetrable  and  unprofitable  forests, 
to  which  we  had  been  accustomed  for  the  last 
three  months. 

At  four  o'clock  we  came  to  an  anchor  for  a 
couple  of  hours,  waiting  for  the  flood-tide,  and 
took  this  opportunity  to  land.  The  .fields  af- 
forded a  great  number  of  birds  of  different  de- 
scriptions, and  we  were  successful  in  adding 
several  specimens  to  our  collection.  The  na- 
tives, wherever  we  met  them,  received  us  with 
kindness,  and  betrayed  no  symptoms  of  distrust 


I 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  121 

or  timidity.  As  soon  as  the  flood-tide  had  made, 
we  weighed,  and  at  twelve  o'clock  at  night  reach- 
^  the  town  of  Bang-kok. 

March  29. — The  morning  presented  to  us  a 
very  novel  spectacle — the  capital  of  Siam,  situ- 
ated on  hoth  sides  of  the  Menam.  Numerous 
temples  of  Buddha,  with  tall  spires  attached  to 
them,  frequently  glittering  with  gilding,  vrere 
conspicuous  among  the  mean  huts  and  hovels  of 
the  natives,  throughout  which  were  interspersed 
a  profusion  of  palms,  ordinary  fruit-trees,  and 
the  sacred  flg  (ficujf  religiosa).  On  each  side 
of  the  river  there  was  a  row  of  floating  habita- 
tions, resting  on  rafts  of  bamboos,  moored  to  the 
shore.  These  appeared  the  neatest  and  best  de- 
scription of  dwellings;  they  were  occupied  by 
good  Chinese  shops.  Close  to  these  aquatic  habi- 
tations were  anchored  the  largest  description  of 
native  vess^,  among  which  were  many  junks 
of  great; size,  just  arrived  from  China.  The  face 
of  the  river '  presented  a  busy  scene,  from  the 
number  of  boats  and  canoes  of  every  size  and 
description  which  were  passing  to  and  fro.  The 
number  of  th&e  struck  us  as  very  great  at  the 
time,  fof  we  were  not  aware  that  there  are  few 
or  no  rdads  at  Bang-kok,  and  that  the  river  and 
canals  form  the  common  highways,  not  only  for 
goods,  but  for  passengers  of  every  description. 
Many  of  the  boats  were  shops  ccxitaining  ear- 


128  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

thenware,  Uachang^*  dried  fisb»  and  fresh  pork. 
Venders  of  these  several  commodities  were  hawk- 
ing and  cr3ring  them  as  in  an  European  town. 
Among  those  who  plied  on  the  river,  there  was 
a  large  proportion  of  women,  and  of  the  priests 
of  Buddha  ;  the  latter  readily  distinguished  hy 
their  shaved^  and  bare  heads,  and  their  yellow 
vestments.  This  was  the  hour  in  which  they 
are  accustomed  to  go  in  quest  of  alms,  which 
accounted  for  the  great  number  of  them  which 
we  saw. 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  a  boat  was  secsi 
coming  alongside  with  two  persons  of  distinction 
in  her..  These  were  the  son  and  nephew  of  die 
Minister,  lads  not  above  fourteen  years  of  age, 
who  were  sent  on  board  to  compliment  us  on  our 
arrival.  They  brought  us  a  present  of  fruit  and 
fine  tea,  and  communicated  a  request  ixom  the 
Minister,  that  the  ship  would  drop  down  a  few 
hundred  yards,  and  <^posite  to  his  own  house, 
where  a  deputation  would  be  sent  on  board  to 
receive  the  letter  of  the  Gov^nor-general.  The 
son  of  the  Minister  was  a  spri^tly  and  intelli- 
gent  lad,  but  seemed  to  have  been  grei^tly  in- 
dulged. They  were  served  with  coffee  and  sweet- 
meats,  and  after  this  repast  chewed  betel^  and 
smoked  tobacco  profusely,  so  as  to  give  us  ra- 

*  A  foetid  condiment  in  very  general  use  in  the  countries 
beyond  the  Gknges,  and  generally  composed  of  bruised  slurimps 
and  other  small  fish. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  183 

ther  an  unfavourable  impresfsion  of  the  educa- 
tion and  hshits  of  a  young  Siamese  nobl^nan. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  a  secretary  came 
on  board  well  attended.  He  had  his  note-book 
and  his  pencil  in  his  hand,  and  the  object  of  his 
visit  was  to  examine  the  English  horse,  which 
was  <»ie  of  the  presents,  and  to  take  minutes 
for  the  information  of  his  Majesty,  from  whom^ 
and  not  the  Minister,  he  took  care  to  infonn 
us,  he  was  directly  sent.  His  Majesty,  it  ap- 
pears, had  heard  of  the  horse,  and  not  being  able 
to  restrain  his  curiosity,  had  sent  this  person  for 
the  express  piupose  of  drawing  up  a  formal  de- 
scription of  him. 

In  the  evening,  according  to  the  intimation 
which  had  been  given,  a  deputation  came  on 
board  to  receive  the  letter  of  the  Governor-ge- 
neral. The  principal  member  of  it  was  Pia^ipat 
kosa,  the  deputy  of  the  Fweign  Minister,  a  fine- 
looking  old  man,  above  seventy  years  of  age,  of 
frank  and  pleasing  manners.  Siamese  and  Euro- 
pean notions  on  the  subject  of  fordgn  misrions 
differ  essentially.  Among  the  Siamese,  the  prin- 
cipal honours  are  paid  to  the  letter  which  is 
brought,  and  not  to  the  envoy  who  brings  it, 
and  who  is  considered  in  little  better  light  than 
tbat  of  an  honourable  messenger.  In  delivering 
the  letter  of  the  Governor-general,  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  advert  to  this  circumstance,  and  to 
see  liiat  every  proper  ceremony  was  attended  to. 


124  EMBASSr   TO   SI  AM 

The  chief  of  the  deputation  began  by  infonn- 
ing  us,  that  according  to  Siamese  etiquette,  let^ 
ters  from  foreign  States  must  be  delivered  to 
the  oflBcers  of  Government  before  presentation  to 
His  Majesty,  for  the  purpose  of  being  authenti- 
cated and  translated.  We  requested  to  know  if 
a  copy  would  not  be  sufficient.  We  were  told, 
in  reply,  that  the  letter  itself  must  be  seen,  that 
it  might  be  ascertained  that  all  necessary  forms 
had  been  complied  with.  These  forms  have 
especial  reference  to  the  shape  and  quality  of 
the  paper,  and  envelope,  titles,  and  such  like 
matters.  We  then  stated,  that  we  expected  the 
letter  would  be  returned  to  us  previous  to  our 
audience,  in  order  that  we  might  have  the  ho- 
nour of  presenting  it  personally  to  the  King. 
We  were  informed  that  this  was  contrary  to 
usage,  but  a  pledge  was  given  that  the  letter 
should  be  produced  at  the  audience,  and  a  Sia- 
mese translation  of  it  read  in  our  presence.  The 
Govemor-general's  letter  was  now  produced,  and 
taken  by  the  old  chief  in  a  gold  vase  brought 
for  the  purpose..  It  was  received  by  the  escort 
on  the  quarter-deck  under  a  salute,  and  handed 
into  the  boat,  where  it  was  deposited  under  a 
state  umbrella. 

Ko-chai-asa-hak,  who  formed  one  of  the  depu* 
tation,  stayed  behind  until  the  other  members 
had  gone  away.  His  object  was  to  deliver  to 
us  a  message  from  the  Minister,   requesting  I 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  125 

would  favour  him,  in  the  evening,  with  a  pri- 
vate interview.  I  agreed  to  this/ with  some 
hesitation ;  and  Captain  Dangerfield  and  I  land- 
ed, accordingly,  at  six  in  the  evening,- and  pro* 
ceeded  to  the  Minister's  house,  immediately  on 
the  river  side.  In  compliment  to  us,  he  met 
us  at  the  door,  offering  us  hi&  hand  in  the  Eu- 
ropean fashion.  He  seated  himself  upon  a  siilk 
cushion,  and  pointed  to  one  opposite,  which 
Captain  Dangerfield  and  myself  took  posses- 
sion of.  None  of  his  attendants  or  family  came 
within  several  yards  of  him,  but  lay  prostrate 
on  their  knees  and  elbows  in  an  attitude  par- 
ticularly undignified  and  servile.  The  hall  in 
which  we  were  received  was  neat  and  well- 
furnished  beyond  our  expectation.  The  win- 
dow-curtuns  consisted  of  a  handsome  English 
chintz.  The  room  was  lighted  by  a  pair  of 
good  cut-glass  English  chandeliers,  and  by  se- 
veral handsome  Chinese  lanterns. 

Suri-wrung-kosa,  for  this  was  the  Foreign 
Minister's  name^  was  a  man  about  thirty-eight 
years  of  age,  rather  a  heavy  figure,  inclining  to 
be  corpulent,  and  of  a  complexion  dark  for  a 
Siamese.  His  features  were  expressive  of  good 
sense,  but  there  was  an  air  of  suUenness  and 
reserve  in  them  not  calculated  to  gain  confi- 
d^ice.  His  person  was  without  ornaments,  and, 
indeed,  it  may  be  said,  nearly  without  dress; 
for  he  wore  nothingi  saving  a  piece  of  crimson 


126  EMBASSY  TO  >8IAM. 

silk,  which  was  wrapped  round  his  loins.  Al- 
together, whether  in  person  or  manner,  he  had 
very  much  the  appearance  of  a  frugal  Hindoo 
of  the  mercantile  cast,  in  good  circumstances. 
His  questions,  upon  this  occasion,  were  sensible 
and  pertinent  throughout,  and  evinced  none  of 
the  troublesome  importunity  which  I  experi- 
enced  from  the  Chief  of  Pak-nam.  His  prin- 
cipal inquiries  were  directed  to  the  objects  of 
the  Mission;  and  he  seemed  satisfied  with  the 
explanations  which  were  given.  He  requested 
us,  as  we  had  made  a  long  voyage,  to  repose 
ourselves  for  a  few  days,  when  we  should  be 
presented  to  the  King.  It  would,  however,  he 
added,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  place,  be 
requisite  that  we  should  be  previously  intro* 
duced  to  the  Prince  Kromchiat,  the  eldest  son 
of  the  King,  who  superintended  the  foreign  and 
commercial  department.  Our  conversation  was 
carried  on  in  Malay,  through  the  medium  of 
Ko-chai-asa-hak ;  for  our  interpreters,  although 
they  accompanied  us,  were  not  allowed  to  act 
Before  we  took  our  departure,  a  very  neat 
dessert  of  choice  fruits,  sweetmeats,  and  tea, 
were  served  up  to  us. 

The  report  made  by  the  secretary,  respecting 
the  English  horse,  had  so  strongly  excited  the 
curiosity  of  His  Siamese  Majesty,  that  he  was 
unable  to  repress  it  until,  the  regular  delivery 
of  the  presents;  and  a  polite  message  was  sent 


AND  COCJIIN   CQ^IKA.  187 

to  request  that  he  might  be  allowed  to  land. 
One  of  the  boats  employed  to  convey  elephants* 
¥riith  a  train  of  attendants,  was  sent  to  receive 
him»  and  he  was  safely  landed  last  evening ;  the 
first  of  his  race,  I  am  sure,  that  ever  reached 
the  shores  of  Siam.  He  was  a  handsome  tho- 
rough-bred  entire  horse,  about  fifteen  liands  high. 
Such  an  animal,  in  a  country  where  horses  are 
rare,  and  the  few  that  exist  mere  ponies,  was 
necessarily  an  object  of  much  curiosity. 

March  81. — In  the  morning,  Seignor  De  Sil- 
veira,  a  gentleman  who  had  been  reidding  at 
Siam  as  Portuguese  Consul  during  the  last  two 
years,  sent  his  assistant,  or  secretary,  to  wait 
upon  us ;  excusing  himself  from  coming  in  per- 
son, as  it  was  contrary  to  Siamese  etiquette  for 
a  person  in  his  situation  to  visit  us  before  we 
had  been  honoured  with  an  audience  of  the 
King. 

We  should  now,  after  a  long  confinement  on 
board  of  ship,  have  beeii  glad  to  have  gone 
abroad,  and  gratified  ourselves  with  an  inspec- 
tion of  the  many  novel  objects  which  seemed 
to  offer  themselves,  but  this  was  contrary  to 
etiquette.  We  were  not  indeed  forbidden  to 
go  about,  but  it  was  stated  to  us,  that  to  do 
so,  before  a  public  audience  had  placed  us  under 
the  immediate  protection  of  the  Court,  might 
expose  us  to  be  treated  with  rudeness  by  the 
populace. 


128  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

April  1. — ^The  presents  for  the  King  were 
landed  this  morning,  at  the  particular  request 
of  the  Court.  The  pretext  for  this,  was  to  af- 
ford '  an  opportunity  of  examining  and  register- 
ing them  before  they  were  presented  at  the  au- 
dience, but  I  am  afraid  the  real  motive  was  no 
other  than  an  anxious  desire  to  be  put  in  im- 
mediate possession.  A  trifling  circumstance, 
which  took  place  in  delivering  them,  afforded 
a  singular  Example  of  indelicacy  on  the  part; 
of  the  officers  of  the  Siamese  Government 
Among  a  great  many  pieces  of  British  muslin, 
which  constituted  an  article  of  the  presents,  it 
was  alleged  that  there  was  a  short  delivery  of 
four,  as  the  numbers  did  not  correspond  with 
the  list  given  in  at  Fak-nam.  This  ^erioM 
defalcation  was  communicated  to  me  by  a 
formal  message,,  and  a  hope  expressed  that  the 
deficiency  would  be  made  up.  At  the  saiiie 
time,  no  notice  was  taken  of  two  pieces  of  iGne 
Genoa  velvet,  which  were  delivered  beyond  thcf 
quantity:  .expressed  in  the  list,  although  of  ten- 
times  the  value  of  the  muslins !  As  soon  as 
our  clerk  brought  this  last  circumstance  to  the 
notice  of  the  messengers,  not  another  word  vtas 
said  about  the  alleged  defalcation  in  the  muslins ! 

In  the  course  of  the  morning,  two  of  the 
Court  interpreters  called  upon  us ;  the  one  a 
Christian  and  the  other  a  Mohammedan.  They^ 
dealt  very  freely  with  one  another's  character,- 


AND   COCHIN   CBINA.  129 

and  each  assured  us,  in  his  turn,  that  the  other 
was  totally  unworthy  of  confidence. 

April  2. — Our  party  landed  last  night»  and 
took  possession  of  the  dwelling  allotted  to  us^. 
It  was  a  new  house,  of  very  coarse  masonry, 
with  a  tiled  roof,  and  consisting  of  four  lower 
and  as  many  upper  apartments,  all  small  and 
inconvenient.  A  house  of  a  similar  size  and 
appearance  was  supplied,  a  few  days  afterwards, 
for  the  accommodation  of  such  of  our  party 
as  could  not,  upon  the  present  occasion,  find 
room.  The  Prah-klang  had  furnished  our  apart- 
ments after  the  Siamese  taste ;  hut  so  little  to 
ours,  that  we  soon  discovered  the  necessity  of 
landing  our  own  furniture,  and  by  this  means 
made  oiu^elves  as  comfortable  as  our  situation 
would  permit.  Our  new  dwelling  was  within 
a  few  yards  of  the  river,  of  which,  as  well  as 
of  the  most  populous  part  of  the  town,  it  af- 
forded an  extensive  view  to  the  front,  while 
behind  it  overlooked  the  court-yard  of  the  Prah- 
klang's  house  and  his  chamber  of  audience,  so 
that,  without  exercising  an  impertinent  curiosity, 
we  were  afforded  an  opportunity  of  witnessing, 
from  time  to  time,  a  good  deal  of  what  passed. 
I  had  a  message  in  the  morning,  to  request  that 
I  would  favour  the  Prah-klang  with  another 
visit.  I  declined  doing  so,  as  he  had  not  re- 
turned the  first  visit  paid  to  him;  although  he 
explained  that  his  not  doing  so  was  in  compli- 

VOL.  I.  K 


ISO  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

ance  with  the  etiquette  of  the  Court,  which  for- 
bade all  open  intercourse  with  foreign  agents, 
until  publicly  recognized. 

April  8. — The  ceremony  of  our  presentation 
to  the  Prince  Krom-chiat  was  fixed  for  this 
night,  and,  as  had  been  previously  arranged,  a 
twelve-oared  barge  came  at  eight  in  the  even- 
ing to  convey  us.  Mr.  Rutherfurd  alone  ac- 
companied me,  the  other  gentlemen  being  in- 
disposed and  unable  to  attend.  The  Prince's 
palace  is  situated  a  little  beyond  that  of  the 
King,  about  two  miles  up  the  river.  Upon 
our  arrival,  we  were  received  in  an  anteroom 
by  Pia-pipat-kosa,  the  aged  officer  whom  I  have 
described  as  coming  on  board  to  receive  the 
Grovemor-general's  letter.  We  were  not  long 
detained  here,  but  soon  summoned  to  the 
Prince's  presence,  by  a  message,  conveyed  to 
us  in  a  few  words  of  broken  English,  by 
the  Intendant  of  the  port,  a  native  Christian, 
whom  I  had  not  before  seen.  We  ascended 
the  hall  of  audience  by  a  flight  of  two  or 
three  awkward  steps.  Fronting  the  door  of 
this  apartment,  was  a  large  wooden  skreen,  to 
preserve  the  privacy  of  the  interior.  As  soon 
as  we  had  passed  this  skreen,  we  had  a  view  of 
the  Prince,  sitting  in  full  court,  and  offering  a 
spectacle  rather  singular  and  imposing.  The 
hall,  which  appeared  about  eighty  feet  long,  and 
of  a  well-proportioned  breadth,  was  covered  with 


AND   COCHIN    CHINA.  ISl 

a  profusion  of  gilding  and  vermilion.  At  the 
upper  end  of  it  there  was  a  handsome  altar- 
^ece^  which,  we  were  informed,  contained  a  small 
golden  image  of  Gautama,  but  it  was  concealed 
from  our  view  by  a  crimson  satin  curtain.  To 
our  left  ^hand,  and  about  the  middle  of  the  room, 
there  was  an  elevated  pulpit,  and  from  this  we 
were  told  that  the  Talapoins  chant  their  hymns, 
and  deliver  their  moral  discourses,  when  the  Prince 
is  disposed  to  receive  instruction,  which  frequently 
happens,  for  he  has  the  reputation  of  being  very 
devout.  The  haU  was  decorated  with  European 
lustres  of  cut-glass,  with  European  and  Chinese 
mirrors,  and  with  a  profusion  of  Chinese  lan- 
terns. The  Prince,  a  heavy  and  corpulent  figure, 
about  thirty-eight  years  of  age,  but  having  the 
appearance  of  fifty,  sat  on  a  mat  towards  the 
upper  part  of  the  room,  leaning  against  a  pillar, 
which  was  one  of  a  row  that  divided  the  hdl 
by  its  whole  length.  His  countenance  was  sen- 
sible and  good-natured ;  but,  destitute  as  he  was 
of  becoming  attire,  he  had  but  a  mean  and  un- 
dignified appearance.  The  courtiers  kept  at  a 
great  distance,  crouching  to  the  very  ground,  with 
their  hands  clasped  before  them.  Among  these 
were  several  Mohammedans  of  the  sect  of  Ali, 
descendants  of  emigrants  from  the  Coromandel 
coast.  These  people,  who  from  education  and 
circumstances  are  naturally  subtle  and  intriguing, 
have  considerable  influence  in  the  foreign  de- 

K  2 


1S2  KMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

partment  of  the  Siamese  administration.  Among 
the  courtiers,  the  Prah-klang  alone  was  a  little 
in  advance,  but  prostrate  like  the  rest.  Mr.  Ru- 
therfurd  and  I  sat  down  upon  a  carpet  which 
was  pointed  out  to  us,  between  the  Prince  and 
his  courtiers.  Near  us  we  found  the  presents 
of  the  Governor-general  to  the  Prince.  We 
were  no  sooner  seated  than  the  Christian  Inten- 
dant  of  the  Port  directed  us,  in  a  toae  of  au- 
thority bordering  on  rudeness,  to  make  the  cus- 
tomary obeisance.  I  fi^lt  under  the  necessity  of 
rebuking  him,  by  observing,  that  unless  he  could 
express  himself  with  more  propriety  and  deco- 
rum, he  must  not  presume  to  address  us  at  all. 
This  had  the  desired  effect,  for  we  were  not 
again  importuned  by  him  during  the  rest  of  the 
evening. 

It  had  been  provided  that  our  interpreters  should 
be  admitted,  but  this  was  a  promise  which  was  by 
no  means  intended  to  be  kept.  To  be  admitted 
to  the  presence  of  the  Prince,  was  considered  too 
great  an  honour  for  persons  of  their  condition, 
and  besides  a  very  inconvenient  restraint  upon 
the  conversation  which  would  ensue.  Accord- 
ingly, when  they  attempted  to  follow  us  into 
the  hall,  they  were  jostled  by  the  attendants  and 
forced  to  withdraw.  I  even  found  that  Ko- 
chai-asa-hak  was  not  of  sufficient  rank  to  address 
the  Prince  directly.  Another  Mohammedan  of 
superior  rank,  who  was  a  little  in  advance  for  this 


AN13   COCHIN   CHINA.  18S 

purpose,  received  the  Prince's  words,  and  Ko- 
chai-asa-hak,  who  lay  crouched  behind  us,  ren- 
dered  them  to  me  in  the  Malay  language.  I 
was  first  asked  if  peace  or  war  prevailed  in  Hin- 
doostan,  and  then  followed  a  number  of  ques- 
tions, which  were  personal  towards  the  Gover- 
nor-general,—such  as  inquiries  after  his  health, 
how  long  he  had  governed  India,  what  was  His 
Excellency's  age,  and  whether  or  not  he  was  bro- 
ther to  the  King  of  England  ?  When  these  in- 
quiries were  satisfactorily  answered,  the  Prince 
observed,  **  I  have  heard  of  his  reputation  for 
justice  and  wisdom,  from  the  merchants,  of  all 
nations,  who  have  of  late  years  resorted  to  this 
country." 

The  Prince  after  this  referred  to  a  subject  of 
less  dignity,  but  one  which  interested  him  more, 
— the  fate  of  a  ship,  which,  about  fourteen 
months  before,  he  had  sent  on  a  commerdul 
speculation  to  Bengal.  This  was  the  vessel  which 
we  had  seen  at  Calcutta,  Penang,  and  Singapore, 
and  which  had  left  the  latter  place  before  our- 
selves, although  she  had  not  yet  arrived.  He 
asked  whether  we  had  seen  her,  when  she  might 
be  expected,  and  whether  or  not  she  had  an  Eu- 
ropean pilot  on  board.  After  this  last  question, 
he  wished  to  know  whether  we  thought  Euro- 
pean or  Indian  mariners  most  skilful.  The  an- 
swer was  not  difficult;  and  he  explained,  in  a 
tone  of  compliment,  "  When  I  speak  of  Euro- 


134  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

peans  in  general,  I  do  not  mean  the  English,  for 
their  superiority  over  all  other  people,  in  this  re- 
spect, is  well  known."  One  question  touching 
the  subject  now  introduced  was  calculated  to  ex- 
cite  a  smile.  The  Prince  desired  to  know  whe- 
ther, during  his  residence  at  Calcutta,  the  com- 
mander of  the  Siamese  ship  had  dressed  in  the 
English  fashion,  and  conformed  to  the  manners 
and  customs  of  Europeans.  The  individual  from 
whom  this  compliance  with  foreign  manners  was 
expected,  was  an  unwieldly  old  Mohammedan 
of  sixty,  and  of  most  uncomproinising  Oriental 
habits. 

The  next  question  put,  touched  slightly  on  the 
subject  of  European  politics,  and  the  Prince  was 
especially  solicitous  to  know,  whether  the  British 
and  Portuguese  were  at  present  at  peace.  It  was 
readily  answered,  that  the  English  and  Portuguese 
«ations  had  been  friends  and  allies  for  many  ages, 
and  that  there  was  every  probability  of  their  con- 
tinuing so.  The  Siamese  naturally  form  an  undue 
estimate  of  the  power  of  the  Portuguese  nation, 
from  having  at  all  times  seen  and  heard  more  of 
them  than  of  any  other  European  people ;  and 
this  accounts  for  the  present  questions. 

We  were  asked  after  this,  what  objects  we  had 
in  view  after  quitting  Siam  ?  This  question  af- 
forded an  opportunity  of  explaining  the  real  ob- 
jects of  the  Mission.  The  Prince  observed  upon 
this,  in  a  strain  of  compliment,  **  It  is  wise  in  the 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  186 

Goveraor-rgeaeral  of  India,  to  seek  friendship  and 
commerce  with  distant  nations." 

Besides  these,  many  trifling  and  miimportant 
questions  were  also  put — such  as  the  ages  of  the 
different  gentlemen  composing  the  Mission,  the 
length  and  nature  of  their  services,  the  number  of 
JSuropean  and  Indian  languages,  which  they  had 
acquired,  &c.  The  audience  lasted  nearly  two 
hours,  and  was  not  over  until  between  eleven  and 
twelve  o'clock  at  night.  These  late  hours,  as  we 
afterwards  found,  are  the  favourite  ones  amongst 
the  Siamese  for  the  transaction  of  business.  Dur- 
ing this  visit,  no  repast  was  served  to  us ;  but  we 
had  no  sooner  reached  home,  than  we  found  eight 
large  tubs  of  sweetmeats,  sent  to  us  as  a  present 
by  the  Prince. 

AprU  5. — The  8th  was  appointed  by  the  King 
for  granting  us  an  audience,  and  the  ceremonial  of 
our  introduction  was,  in  a  good  measure,  arranged 
to-day.  It  was  settled  that  a  barge  should  be 
sent,  to  convey  us  from  our  residence  to  the  land- 
ing-place opposite  to  the  palace,  and  that  from 
thence  we  should  be  conveyed  in  palanquins  or 
litters.  I  had  wished  to  stipulate  for  elephants ; 
but  we  found  that  the  use  of  these,  so  general  in 
all  other  parts  of  the  country,  had  been  long  dis- 
continued at  the  modem  capital,  or,  at  least,  in- 
terdicted to  all  but  a  few  of  the  chief  officers  of 
Government.  To  ride  on  horseback,  we  found, 
was  not  considered  respectable.     We  experienced, 


136  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

in  the  discassion  of  this  question,  a  striking  ex- 
ample of  the  singular  and  extravagant  national 
vanity  of  the  Siamese.  This  people,  of  half-naked 
and  enslaved  barbarians,  have  the  hardihood  to 
consider  themselves  the  first  nation  in  the  world, 
and  to  view  the  performance  of  any  servile  office 
to  a  stranger,  as  an  act  of  degradation.  We  had  a 
hundred  examples  of  this  during  our  stay  at  Siam ; 
and  upon  the  present  occasion,  it  was  not  without 
the  greatest  difficulty,  and  the  utmost  reluctance 
on  the  part  of  the  chiefs,  that  they  were  at  last 
brought  to  consent  to  allow  us  a  few  carriers  to 
convey  our  litters. 

I  had  apprehended  much  embarrassment  about 
the  nature  of  the  obeisance  which  would  be  re- 
quired of  us  at  our  presentation ;  but,  upon  the 
whole,  this  matter  was  arranged  without  any  ex- 
traordinary difficulty.  The  Siamese  officers,  <mi 
their  part,  had  great  apprehensions  that  we  should 
give  offence  by  persisting  in  following  our  own 
customs  in  disparagement  of  their's.  It  was  finally 
determined,  that  upon  appearing  in  the  presence, 
we  should  make  a  bow  in  the  European  fashion, 
seat  ourselves  in  the  place  usually  assigned  to 
foreign  missions,  make  an  obeisance  to  His  Ma- 
jesty, when  seated,  by  raising  the  two  joined 
hands  to  the  forehead,  but,  above  all  things,  take 
care  not  to  exhibit  our  feet,  or  any  portion  of  the 
lower  part  of  the  body,  to  the  sacred  view  of  his 
Siamese  Majesty. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  137 

AprU  7. — I  had  yesterday  evening  an  urgent 
ecnnmiinication  from  the  Frah-klang,  intreating 
I  would  wave  ceremony,  and  meet  him  at  his 
house,  as  he  had  matters  of  considerable  im^ 
portance  to  communicate.  I  was  extremely  un- 
willing to  throw  any  unnecessary  obstacle  in  the 
way  of  the  Mission,  in  the  present  stage  of  its 
progress ;  and  therefore  assented  to  his  wish.  I 
visited  him  this  morning,  in  company  with  Mr. 
Finlayson.  His  desire  was  to  discover,  previous 
to  the  audience,  what  objects  of  Siamese  ambition 
would  be  conceded  on  our  parts,  in  return  for 
such  commercial  advantages  as  might  be  .granted 
to  the  British  nation  by  the  Siamese.  With  this 
view  he  asked  pointedly,  whether,  if  a  treaty 
were  made  with  the  Governor-general  of  India, 
Siamese  vessels  would  be  permitted  to  purchase 
fire-arms  and  ammunition  freely  at  British  ports  ? 
The  reply  to  this  question  was,  that  if  the  Siamese 
were  at  peace  with  the  friends  and  neighbours  of 
the  British  nation,  they  would  certainly  be  per- 
mitted to  purchase  fire-arms  and  ammunition  at 
our  ports,  but  not  otherwise.  This  pointed  too 
plainly  at  the  Burmans,  and  the  interpreter  hesi- 
tated to  explain  it;— informing  me,  in  an  under 
tone,  that,  according  to  Siamese  notions,  it  was 
considered  uncivil  to  make  any  allusion  to  the  na- 
tional enemy;*  an  observation  which  shows  the 
rancorous  and  irreconcilable  temper  with  which 
those  two  nations  view  each  other.    This  demand 


138  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

of  supplying  them  with  fire-anns,  scarcely  com- 
patible with  a  strict  neutrality,  was  that  on  which 
the  Siamese  set  the  greatest  value  throughout  the 
negotiation,  and  I  have  to  regret  that  I  did  not 
feel  myself  authorized  to  yield  to  it  The  Minis- 
ter began  to  discourse  familiarly  on  the  subject  of 
trade,  respecting  which  he  evinced  much  shrewd^ 
ness  and  intelligence ;  but  his  views  were  those 
of  a  keen  trader,  and  not  of  a  statesman.  He 
complained  that  he  had  not  found  the  trading 
adventures  made  to  Bengal  profitable ;  and  it  was 
no  wonder,  for  the  voyages  had  occupied  eighteen 
months,  and  the  goods  had  been  consigned  to  na- 
tive agents  of  indifferent  character  at  Calcutta. 
He  then  dwelt  upon  the  variety  of  productions 
which  Siam  afforded  suited  for  foreign  trade,  and 
said,  that  the  culture  of  coffee  had  been  begun  in 
consequence  of  the  encouragement  which  the 
Americans  had  given  him  to  grow  this  article. 
Before  I  took  leave  of  him,  he  again  reverted  to 
the  favourite  subject  of  our  supplying  fire-arms, 
to  which  I  gave  the  same  answer  as  before. 

We  were  informed  this  forenoon,  whether 
truly  or  not  I  could  not  determine,  that  the  Chi- 
nese had  been  very  busy  in  misrepresenting  the 
objects  of  the  mission.  They  were  stated  to  say, 
that  the  English  came  now  with  smooth  words, 
pretending  to  want  trade  only— ^that  in  a  little 
time  they  would  ask  for  a  factory — then  for  leave 
to  build  a  wall  round  it— that  on  this  wall  they 


ASD  COCHIl^  CHINA.  1S9 

would  soon  plant  cannon ;  and  finally,  that  they 
would  seize  upon  the  country,  as  they  had  done 
upon  many  similar  occasions.  It  was  farther 
added,  that  as  the  English  had  no  wars  now 
on  hand  in  Hindoostan,  they  had  a  large  dispo- 
sable army  that  wanted  employment.  It  is  not 
to  be  denied,  but  that  the  strange  history  of  our 
Indian  aggrandizement  must  always  afford  a  sub- 
ject of  jealousy  to  the  neighbouring  nations,  and 
ground  to  misrepresent  even  our  most  laudable 
views  and  enterprises. 

April  8. — The  ceremony  of  our  introduction 
to  the  King  having  been  fixed  upon  for  this  day, 
we  left  our  dwelling  at  half-past  eight  in  the 
morning  for  the  palace.  A  twelve-oared  barge, 
with  the  rowers  dressed  in  scarlet  uniforms,  was 
furnished  by  the  Court,  for  the  conveyance  of  the 
gentlemen  of  the  mission  ;  another  for  our  Indian 
attendants,  about  twenty  in  number ;  and  the  se- 
poys of  the  escort  were  conveyed  in  »the  ship's 
launch.  I^t  was  made  a  particular  request,  that 
our  servants,  but  especially  the  sepoys  of  the 
escort,  should  form  part  of  the  procession.  About 
nine  o'clock,  we  landed  under  the  walls  of  the  pa- 
lace, where  we  found  an  immense  concourse  of 
people  waiting  to  view  the  spectacle.  The  accom- 
modation for  conveying  us  to  the  palace  con- 
sisted of  net  hammocks,  suspended  from  pedes, 
fumbhed  with  an.  embroidered  carpet,  and,  ac- 
cording to  the  custom  of  the  country,  borne  by 


140  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

two  men  only.  The  management  of  these  un- 
stable vehicles  was  a  matter  of  some  difficulty, 
and  our  awkwardness  became  a  subject  of  some 
amusement  to  the  crowd.  The  escort,  after  salut- 
ing us  at  the  landing-place,  fell  in  and  formed 
part  of  the  procession.  After  passing  the  first 
gate,  we  came  to  a  very  extensive  market,  crowd- 
ed in  every  part  with  the  populace.  This  led 
directly  to  the  second  gate,  where  a  street  of 
Siamese  soldiers  in  single  file  was  formed  to  re- 
ceive us.  These  were  of  a  most  grotesque  ap- 
pearance, their  costume  being  neither  Asiatic  nor 
European,  but  a  strange  mixture  of  both.  Their 
uniforms  consisted  of  a  loose  jacket  of  coarse 
scarlet  broaddoth,  buttoned  in  front;  a  pair  of 
small  loose  trowsers  barely  reaching  to  the  knee ; 
and  a  hat  with  a  small  round  crown'  and  broad 
brim,  which  was  coated  with  red  paint  or  var- 
nish, and  composed  of  rhinoceros  hide,  a  sub- 
stance which  is  sabre-proof.  Their  arms  con- 
sisted of  muskets  and  bayonets,  coated,  like  their 
hats,  with  a  thick  red  varnish.  Some  of  the 
muskets  were  without  ramrods,  and  altc^ther 
in  a  very  poor  state  in  reg^d  to  efficiency. 

At  the  second  gateway  we  dismounted  from 
our  litters,  and  left  the  escort,  which  was  not 
permitted  tb  go  farther.  We  were  also  com- 
pelled at  this  place  to  part  with  our  side-anns, 
— no  person  whatever,  we.  were  told,  being  per- 
mitted to  come  armed  within  the  immediate  pre- 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  141 

cincts  of  the  royal  residence.  Passing  through 
this  gate,  we  went  along  an  avenue  having  a  line 
of  sheds  on  hoth  sides,  under  each  of  which  was 
a  cannon  of  enormous  size.  In  this  avenue  also 
a  street  of  Siamese  military,  similar  to  those  just 
described,  was  formed  to  receive  us.  Turning  a 
little  aside  from  this  avenue,  we  were  conducted 
into  an  immense  hall,  which  seemed  to  be  not 
less  than  eighty  or  ninety  feet  long,  and  forty  or 
fifty  broad.  This,  I  believe,  was  the  principal 
hall  of  justice;  but  it  did  not  seem  to  be  much 
frequented,  for  pigeons,  swallows,  and  sparrows, 
had  nested  in  the  roof — and  were  now .  flying 
about  without  fear  or  interruption,  as  it  is  a 
religious  maxim  not  to  disturb  them.  Close  to 
this  building,  ten  elephants,  caparisoned,  were 
drawn  out;  the  first  we  had  seen  since  our 
arrival. 

Carpets  were  spread  for  us,  and  we  were  re- 
quested to  wait  a  summons  into  the  royal  pre- 
sence. We  were  not  detained  above  twenty 
minutes  when  the  summons  arrived,  and  we 
proceeded  to  the  hall  of  audience.  This  portion 
of  the  royal  inclosure  was,  like  the  rest  that  we 
had  passed,  filled  with  a  crowd  of  people  who 
were  curious  and  clamorous,  but  not  rude.  A 
number  of  ofiicers,  with  white  wands,  attended 
to  keep  off  the  crowd;  and  two  ofiicers,  after 
the  manner  of  heralds,  preceded  us.  We  now 
reached  the  third  and  last  gate,  which  contains 


142  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

the  principal  palace,  a  building  with  a  tall  spire, 
and  roofed  with  tin ;  the  hall  of  audience,  dis- 
tinct from  the  palace ;  and  an  extensive  temple 
of  Buddha.  We  were  here  requested  to  take  off 
our  shoes,  and  to  leave  behind  us  our  Indian 
attendants.  None  of  our  party  whatever,  indeed, 
were  permitted  to  go  beyond  this  spot,  except 
the  four  British  officers  of  the  mission.  I  had 
previously  stipulated  that  our  interpreters,  al- 
though not  admitted  into  the  presence,  should 
be  within  hearing ;  but  in  the  hurry  of  the  mo- 
ment they  were  jostled,  and  hindered  from  fol- 
lowing. As  soon  as  we  had  entered  the  gate, 
we  found  a  band  of  music,  consisting  of  not  less 
than  a  hundred  persons,  drawn  up  to  form  a 
street  for  our  reception.  The  instruments  con- 
sisted of  gongs,  drums,  brass  flutes,  and  flagolets. 
Opposite  to  the  door  of  the  hall  of  audience 
there  was  an  immense  Chinese  mirror,  of  many 
parts,  which  formed  a  screen,  concealing  the  in- 
terior of  the  Court  from  our  view.  We  had 
no  sooner  arrived  at  this  spot  than  a  loud  flourish 
of  wind  insfhiments  was  heard,  accompanied  by 
a  wild  shout  or  yell,  which  announced,  as  we 
afterwards  found,  the  arrival  of  his  Majesty. 
We  passed  the  screen  to  the  right  side,  and,  as 
had  been  agreed  upon,  taking  ofl*  our  hats,  made 
a  respectful  bow  in  the  European  manner.  Every 
foot  of  the  great  hall  which  we  had  now  entered 
was  literally  so  crowded  with  prostrate  courtiers. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  143 

that  it  was  difficult  to  move  without  the  risk 
of  treading  upon  some  officer  of  state.  Prece^ 
dence  is  decided,  upon  such  occasions,  by  rela- 
tive vicinity  to  the  throne;  the  princes  being 
near  the  foot  of  it,  the  principal  officers  of  Go- 
vernment next  to  them,  and  thus  in  succession 
down  to  the  lowest  officer  who  is  admitted  into 
the  presence.  We  seated  ourselves  a  little  in 
front  of  the  screen,  and  made  three  obeisances 
to  the  throne,  in  unison  with  the  courtiers.  This 
obeisance  consisted  in  raising  the  joined  hands 
to  the  head  three  times,  and  at  each  touching 
the  forehead.  To  have  completed  the  Siamese 
obeisance,  it  would  have  been  necessary  to  have 
bent  the  body  to  the  ground,  and  touched  the 
earth  with  the  forehead  at  each  prostration.  I 
thought  the  place  assigned  to  us,  although  not 
a  very  distinguished  one,  the  highest  it  was  in- 
t^ided  to  concede;  but  we  had  no  sooner  made 
our  obeisances  than  we  were  requested  to  ad* 
vance,  and  were  finally  settled  about  half-way 
towards  the  throne.  The  assigning  to  us  the 
first  place,  and  our  advance  afterwards  to  a  more 
honourable  one,  was  evidently  an  artifice  of  our 
conductors  to  exact  a  greater  number  of  obei* 
sances  than  we  had  pledged  ourselves  to  make ; 
for  when  we  were  seated  the  second  time,  the 
whole  Court  made  three  additional  obeisances,  in 
which  we  were  compelled  to  join,  to  avoid  the 
imputation  of  rudeness. 


144  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

The  hall  of  audience  appeared  a  well-propor- 
tioned and  spacious  saloon,  of  about  eighty  feet 
in  length,  perhaps  half  this  in  breadth,  and  thirty 
feet  in  height.  Two  rows,  each  of  ten  handsome 
wooden  pillars,  formed  an  avenue  from  the  door 
to  the  throne,  which  was  situated  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  hall.  The  walls  and  ceiling  were 
painted  of  a  bright  vermilion;  the  cornices  of 
the  former  being  gilded,  and  the  latter  thickly 
spangled  throughout  with  stars  in  rich  gilding. 
Between  the  pillars  we  observed  several  good 
lustres  of  English  cut-glass.  "  The  apartment 
would  have  been  altogether  in  good  taste,  but 
for  the  appearance,  against  the  pillars,  of  some 
miserable  lamps  of  tin-plate,  which  had  been 
imported  from  Batavia,  and  which  were  in  all 
likelihood  prized  only  because  they  were  foreign. 

The  throne  and  its  appendages  occupied  the 
whole  of  the  upper  end  of  the  hall.  The  first 
was  gilded  all  over,  and  about  fifteen  feet  high. 
It  had  much  the  shape  and  look  of  a  handsome 
pidpit.  A  pair  of  curtains,  of  gold  tissue  upon 
a  yellow  ground,  concealed  the  whole  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  room,  except  the  throne;  and 
they  were  intended  to  be  drawn  over  this  also, 
except  when  used.  In  front  of  the  throne,  and 
rising  from  the  floor,  were  to  be  seen  a  number 
of  gUded  umbrellas  of  various  sizes.  These  coii* 
sisted  of  a  series  of  canopies,  decreasing  in  size 
upwards,  and  sometimes  amounting  to  as  many 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  145 

as  seventeen  tiers.  The  King,  as  he  appeared 
seated  on  his  throne,  had  more  the  app^urance 
of  a  statue  in  a  niche,  than  of  a  living  being. 
He  wore  a  loose  gown  of  gold  tissue,  with  very 
wide  sleeves.  His  head  was  bare,  for  he  wore 
neither  crown  nor  any  other  ornament  on  it. 
Close  to  him  was  a  golden  baton,  or  sceptre. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  hall  of  audi^. 
ence,  the  prostrate  attitude  of  the  courtiers,  the 
situation  of  the  King,  and  the  silence  which 
prevailed,  presented  a  very  imposing  spectacle, 
and  reminded  us  much  more  of  a  temple  crowd- 
ed with  votaries  engaged  in  the  performance  of 
some  solemn  rite  of  religion,  than  the  audience* 
chamber  of  a  temporal  monarch. 

The  King  seemed  a  man  between  fifty  and 
sixty  years  of  age,  rather  short  in  person,  and 
disposed  to  corpulency.  His  features  were  very 
ordinary,  and  appeared  to  bespeak  the  known 
indolence  and  imbecility  of  his  character;  but 
upon  this  subject  it  was  not  easy  to  form  any 
correct  opinion,  owing  to  the  distance  we  were 
at  from  the  throne,  and  the  sort  of  chiaro  scuro 
cast  upon  it,  evidently  for  eflPect. 
.  To  the  left  of  the  throne  we  saw  exhibited 
the  portable  part  of  the  presents  from  the  Go- 
vernor-general;  a  secretary  proceeded  to  read  a 
list  of  them ;  and  I  make  no  doubt  they  were 
represented  as  tribute,  or  oflfering,  although  of 
this  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  proof.     The  letter 

VOL.  I.  L 


146,  EMBASSY  TO   8IAM 

of  the  Governor-general  was  neither  read  nor 
exhibited,  notwithstanding  the  distinct  pledge 
which  had  been  given  to  that  efiect. 

The  words  which  His  Siamese  Majesty  con- 
descended to  address  to  us,  were  delivered  in 
a  grave,  measured,  and  oracular  manner.  One 
of  the  first  officers  of  state  delivered  them  to  a 
person  of  inferior  rank,  and  this  person  to  Ko- 
chai-sahak,  who  was  behind  us,  and  explained 
them  in  the  Malay  language.  The  questions  put, 
as  they  were  rendered  to  us,  w»e  as  follows: 
"  The  Govemor-general  of  India  (literally,  in 
Siamese,  The  Lord,  or  Governor,  of  Bengal)  has 
sent  you  to  Siam — what  is  your  business?"  A 
short  explanation  of  the  objects  of  the  mission 
was  given  in  reply.  "  Have  you  been  sent 
with  the  knowledge  of  the  King  of  England?" 
It  was  here  explained,  that,  from  the  great  dis- 
tance  of  England,  the  political  intercourse  with 
the  distant  nations  of  the  East  was  commonly 
entrusted  to  the  management  of  the  Govemor- 
general  of  India.  "  Is  the  Grovemor-general  of 
India  brother  to  the  King  of  England?"  To 
this  question  it  was  replied,  that  the  GovemOT- 
general  of  India  had  been  the  personal  friend 
of  his  sovereign  from  early  life,  but  that  he 
was  not  his  brother.  The  following  questions 
>  were  successively  put :  **  What  dijfferenee  is 
there  in  the  ages  of  the   King  and  GovermK- 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  147 

general  ?*'— «  Was  the  Govemor-general  of  India 
in  good  health  when  you  left  Bengal  ?" — "  Where 
do  you  intend  to  go,  after  leaving  Siam?" — 
**  Is  peace  your  object  in  all  the  countries  you 
mean  to  visit  ?" — "  Do  you  intend  to  travel  by 
land  or  water,  from  Sai-gun  to  Turan  ?"— "  Is  it 
your  intention  to  visit  Hufe,  the  capital  of  Cochin 
China?"  After  receiving  replife^  to  these  dif* 
ferent  questions.  His  Majesty  concluded  with  the 
following  sentence :  "  I  am  glad  to  see  an  envoy 
here  from  the  Govemor-general  of  India.  What- 
ever you  have  to  say,  communicate  to  the 
minister,  Suri*wung-kosa.  What  we  chiefly  want 
from  you  are  fire-arms." 

His  Majesty  had  no  sooner  pronounced  these 
last  words,  than  we  heard  a  loud  stroke,  as  if 
given  by  a  wand  against  a  piece  of  wainscoting ; 
upon  which  the  curtains  on  each  side  of  the 
throne,  moved  by  some  concealed  agency,  closed 
upon  it.  This  was  followed  by  the  same  flourish 
of  wind  instruments,  and  the  same  wild  shout 
which  accompanied  our  entrance;  and  the  cour- 
tiers, falling  upon  their  faces  to  the  ground,  made 
six  successive  prostrations.  We  made  three  obei- 
sances, sitting  upright,  as  had  been  agreed  upon. 

As  soon  as  the  curtain  was  drawn  upon  His 
Majesty,  the  courtiers,  for  the  first  time,  sat 
upright,  and  we  were  requested  to  be  at  our 
ease, — freely  to  look  round  us,  and  mdmire  the 

L  2 


118  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

splendour  and  magnificence  of  the  Couvt^ — such 
being  nearly  the  words  made  use  of  by  the  inter- 
preter in  making  this  communication  to  us. 

During  the  audience,  a  heavy  shower  had 
fallen,  and  it  was  still  raining.  His  Majesty  took 
this  opportunity  of  presenting  us  each  with  a 
small  umbrella,  and  sent  a  message  to  desire  that 
we  would  view'  the  curiosities  of  the  palace  at 
our  leisure.  When  we  arrived  at  the  threshold 
of  the  hall  of  audience,  we  perceived  the  court- 
yard and  the  roads  extremely  wet  and  dirty  from 
the  fall  of  rain.  We  naturally  demanded  our 
shoes,  which  we  had  left  at  the  last  gate.  This 
was  a  favour  which  could  not  be  yielded,  and  we 
were  informed  that  the  first  princes  of  the  blood 
could  not  wear  shoes  within  the  sacred  enclosure 
in  which  we  now  were.  It  would  have  been 
impolitic  to  have  evinced  ill-humour,  or  attempted 
remonstrance ;  and  therefore  we  feigned  a  cheer- 
ful compliance  with  this  inconvenient  usage,  and 
proceeded  to  gratify  our  curiosity. 

The  greatest  of  the  curiosities  to  which  our 
attention  was  directed  were  the  white  elephants, 
well  known  in  Eiu-ope  to  be  objects  of  venera- 
tion,  if  not  of  worship,  in  aU  the  countries  where 
the  religion  of  Buddha  prevails.  The  present 
King  has  no  less  than  six  of  these,  a  larger  num- 
ber than  ever  was  possessed  by  any  Siamese 
monarch;*  and  this  circumstance  is  considered 
peculiarly  auspicious  to  his  reign.     Four  of  them 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  149 

were  shown  to  us.  They  approached  much 
nearer  to  a  true  white  colour  than  I  had  expected : 
they  had,  indeed,  all  of  them  more  or .  less  of 
a  flesh-coloured  tinge;  but  this  arose  from  the 
exposure  of  the  skin,  owing  to  the  small  quan- 
tity of  hair  with  which  the  elephant  is  naturally 
covered.  They  showed  no  signs  of  disease,  debi- 
lity, or  imperfection;  and  as  to  size,  they  were 
of  the  ordinary  stature,  the  smallest  being  not 
less  than  six  feet  six  inches  high.  Upon  in- 
quiring into  their  history,  we  found  that  they 
w^re  all  either  from  the  kingdom  of  Lao  or 
Kamboja,  and  none  from  Siam  itself,  nor  from 
the  Malay  countries  tributary  to  i*,  which  last, 
indeed,  had  never  been  known  to  afford  a  white 
elephant. 

The  rareness  of  the  white  elephant  is,  no  doubt, 
the  origin  of  the  consideration  in  which  it  is  held. 
The  countries  in  which  it  is  found,  and  in  which, 
indeed,  the  elephant  in  general  exists  in  greatest 
perfection,  and  is  most  regarded,  are  those  in 
which  the  worship  of  Buddh  and  the  doctrine 
of  the  metempsychosis  prevail.  It  was  natural, 
therefore,  to  imagine  that  the  body  of  so  rare  an 
object  as  a  white  elephant  must  be  the  tempo- 
rary habitation  of  the  soul  of  s6me  mighty  per- 
sonage in  its  progress  to  perfection.  *  This  is  the 
current  belief,  and  accordingly  every  white  ele- 
phant has  the  rank  and  title  of  a  king,  with  an 
appropriate  name  expressing  this  dignity — such  as 


150  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

the  "  pure  king,"  the  "  wonderful  king,"  and  so 
forth.  One  of  the  Jesuits,  writing  upon  this 
subject,  informs  us  with  some  naivete^  that  his 
Majesty  of  Siam  does  not  ride  the  white  elephant, 
because  he,  the  white  elephant,  is  as  great  a  king 
as  himself! 

Each  of  those  which  we  saw  had  a  separate 
stable,  and  no  less  than  ten  keepers  to  wait  upon 
it.  The  tusks  of  the  males,  for  there  were  some 
of  both  sexes,  were  ornamented  with  gold  rings. 
On  the  head  they  had  all  a  gold  chain  net,  and 
on  the  back  a  small  embroidered  velvet  cushion. 

Notwithstanding  the  veneration  with  which 
the  white  elephants  are  considered  in  some  re- 
spects, it  does  not  seem  to  be  carried  so  far  in 
Siam  as  to  emancipate  them  from  occasional  cor- 
rection. Two  of  them  were  described  as  so 
vicious,  that  it  was  considered  unsafe  to  exhibit 
them.  A  keeper  pricked  the  foot  of  one,  in  our 
presence,  with  a  sharp  iron  until  blood  came, 
although  his  majesty's  only  offence  was  stealing 
a  bunch  of  bananas ;  or  rather,  snatching  it  before 
he  had  received  permission ! 

In  the  stables  of  the  white  elephants,  we  were 
shown  two  monkies,  whose  presence,  the  keepers 
insisted,  pteselred  their  royal  charges  from  sick- 
ness. These  were  of  a  perfectly  pure  white  colour, 
of  considerable  size,  and  of  the  tribe  of  monkies 
with  long  tails.  They  were  in  perfect  health,  and 
had  been  long  caUght ;  but  we  were  advised  not 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  151 

to  play  with  them,  as  they  were  of  a  sullen  and 
mischievous  disposition.  These  were  both  taken 
in  the  forest  of  Pisiluk,  about  ten  days'  journey 
up  the  Menam. 

From  the  white  elephants  we  were  taken  to  the 
crowd  of  their  brethren  which  had  the  ill  luck 
to  be  bom  black,  and  were  therefore  doomed  to 
toil,  or  harsh  usage.  They  did  not  appear  to  us 
to  be  remarkable  either  for  size  or  beauty ;  but 
some  of  our  Indian  servants,  who  were  better 
judges  than  ourselves,  considered  them  as  possess- 
ing, in  an  eminent  degree,  all  those  points  which 
are  admired  by  amateurs,  and  which  distinguish 
the  noblest  race  of  this  animal. 

We  were  struck  with  the  great  number  which 
were  partly  white,  principally  about  the  head  and 
trunk.  One  of  these,  which  was  kept  in  a  separate 
stable,  had  the  whole  head  and  trunk  white :  it 
was  eight  feet  high,  and  in  point  of  symmetry 
quite  perfect.  This,  like  some  of  the  white  ele- 
phants, was  caught  in  the  forests  of  Lao.  The 
elephant  usually  rode  by  his  Majesty  was  exhi- 
bited among  the  rest ;  it  was  tall  and  very  docile, 
but  not  remarkable  for  beauty. 

A  glance  at  his  Siamese  Majesty's  stud  of  horses 
was  quite  sufficient  to  satisfy  our  curiosity*  It 
consisted  of  a  few  ponies  imported  from  the 
Eastern  Islands,  and  of  a  small  breed  of  horses, 
smd  to  be  brought  from  the  Chinese  province  of 
Yu-nan.    There  were  a  few  horses  from  Western 


152  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

India,  old  and  miserable.  One  of  these,  we  were 
informed^  had  been  presented  by  Mr.  Light,  the 
first  Governor  of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island. 

As  we  passed  along,  we  were  requested  to 
examine  the  large  cannon  which  we  had  seen  on 
entering.  They  consisted  of  seven  or  eight  pieces 
lying  on  beds^  and  were  mere  objects  of  curiosity. 
Some  of  them  were  eighteen  feet  long,  the  walls 
of  enormous  thickness,  but  the  calibre  not  exceed- 
ing nine  inches.  They  appeared  to  have  been 
perfectly  well  cast.  Each  had  an  inscription  upon 
it,  inlaid  in  silver,  which,  as  we  were  told,  de- 
scribed its  charge  of  powder,  but,  from  what  we 
could  understand,  in  very  exaggerated  terms. 
These  guns  bore  no  comparison  in  point  of  size  to 
some  of  those  cast  by  the  Mohammedan  princes  of 
Hindostan,  and  neither  in  size  nor  workmanship, 
to  several  which  we  afterwards  saw  in  Cochin 
China. 

We  were  now  conducted  to  the  great  temple 
of  Gautama.  This  consisted,  like  all  other  Sia- 
mese temples,  of  an  immense  square  indosure, 
and  contained  one  principal  temple,  with  several 
inferior  ones.  There  was  a  colonnade  and  covered 
passage  all  round,  and  here  the  walls  were  covered 
with  Siamese  paper,  the  paintings  upon  which 
represented  the  Adventures  of  Rama^  a  favourite 
subject  with  the  Buddhist  nations.  The  principal 
temple  was  a  spacious  square  chamber,  at  one 
end  of  which  was  a  kind  of  altar,  about  eight 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  153 

feet  high,  containing  a  number  of  gilded  figures 
of  Buddh,  in  the  sitting  posture  in  which  he  is 
most  commonly  represented.  In  the  middle  of 
these  gilded  figures  was  one  of  the  same  deity,  of 
a  green-coloured  stone,  and  about  eighteen  inches 
high.  This,  our  conductors  assured  us,  was  made 
of  emerald ;  but  the  material  had  not  the, least  ap- 
pearance either  of  that  or  any  other  gem,  being, 
although  highly  polished,  dull  and  opaque.  It 
was  not  within  reach  of  examination,  but  it  is  not 
improbable  that  it  was  a  light-coloured  malachite, 
imported  from  China. 

Our  examination  of  this  temple  was  but  cur- 
sory, and  I  shall  not  attempt  any  detailed  account 
of  it,  as  we  had  afterwards  much  better  oppor- 
tunities afibrded  us  of  examining  and  describing 
other  Siamese  temples  of  the  same  character,  but 
upon  a  much  larger  scale.  I  ought,  however,  to 
observe  that  the  first  appearance  of  a  Siamese 
temple  made  a  forcible  impression  upon  us.  It 
was  impossible  to  see  the  extent  of  the  buildings, 
and  the  laboriousness  and  costliness  of  the  work- 
mianship  and  materials,  without  feeling  that  we 
were  amongst  a  numerous  people,  who  had  made 
considerable  advances  in  civilization,  and  who 
were  ruled  by  a  despotic  government  and  a  super- 
stitious priesthood. 

After  having  thus  viewed  such  of  the  royal 
curiosities  as  were  exhibited  to  us,  we  were  led 
back  to  the  hall  where  we  had  first  rested,  before 


154  EMBASSY   TO   8IAM 

our  presentation.  There  was  here  prepared  for 
us  a  repast,  consisting  of  abundance  of  dried 
fruits  and  Siamese  confectionary,  served  up  with 
great  neatness  and  propriety. 

After  partaking  of  this  repast,  we  bent  our  way 
back,  receiving  the  same  compliments  and  marks 
of  attention  as  when  we  entered,  and  we  reached 
home  about  noon,  so  that  the  whole  affair  did  not 
occupy  above  three  hours  and  a  half. 

We  had  scarcely  arrived  at  home  when  officers 
came  to  us  from  the  King  with  a  dvil  message, 
bringing  a  large  supply  of  Siamese  confectionary, 
and  from  twenty  to  thirty  tubs  of  Chinese  dried 
fruits  and  sweetmeats.  By  the  same  opportunity, 
we  were  informed  that  the  Minister,  Suri-wung* 
kosa,  would  visit  us  in  the  course  of  the  after- 
noon, having  received  directions  to  furnish  us 
with  an  entertainment  at  our  own  house,  and 
there  to  do  the  honours  of  the  feast. 

This  visit  afforded  an  opportunity  of  observing 
one  of  the  most  singular  and  whimsical  prejudices 
of  the  Siamese.  This  people  have  an.  extreme 
horror  of  permitting  any  thing  to  pass  over  the 
head,  or  having  the  head  touched,  or  in  short 
bringing  themselves  into  any  situation  in  which 
their  persons  are  liable  to  be  brought  into  a  situa- 
tion of  physical  inferiority  to  that  of  others,  such 
as  going  under  a  bridge,  or  entering  the  lower 
apartment  of  a  house  when  the  upper  one  is 
inhabited.    For  this  sufficient  reason,  their  houses 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  155 

are  all^of  one  story.  The  dwelling  which  we  oc- 
cupied, however,  had  been  intended  for  a  ware- 
house, and  consisted,  as  already  mentioned,  of 
two  stories^  while  there  was  no  access  to  the  upper 
apartments  except  by  an  awkward  stair  and  trap- 
door, from  the  corresponding  lower  ones.  This 
occasioned  a  serious  dilemma  to  the  minister. 
A  man  of  his  rank  and  condition,  it  was  gravely 
insisted  upon,  could  not  subject  himself  to  have 
strangers  walk  over  his  head,  without  suffering 
seriously  in  public  estimation. 

To  get  over  this  weighty  objection,  a  ladder 
was  at  last  erected  against  the  side  of  the  house, 
by  which  his  Excellency,  although  neither  a  light 
nor  active  figure  suited  for  such  enterprises, 
safely  effected  his  ascent  about  three  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon.  The  native  Christians,  of  Portu- 
guese descent,  had  prepared  an  abundant  entCT- 
tainment  after  the  European  manner,  which  was 
now  served  up.  The  minister  sat  at  table,  but 
without  eating.  His  son  and  nephew,  the  youths 
whom  I  have  before  mentioned,  also  sat  down, 
and  partook  heartily  of  the  good  things  which 
were  placed  before  them.  No  oriental  antipa- 
thies were  discoverable  in  the  selection  of  the 
viands.  Pork,  beef,  venison,  and  poultry,  were 
served  up  in  profusion,  and  there  was  certainly 
nothing  to  indicate  that  we  were  in  a  country 
where  the  destruction  of  animal  life  is  viewed 
with  horror,  and  punished  as  a  crime.    The  fact 


156  EMBASSY   TO    SIAM 

is^  that  in  practice  the  Siamese  eat  whatever  ani- 
mal food  is  presented  to  them  without  scruple, 
and  discreetly  put  no  questions,  being  quite  sa- 
tisfied, as  they  openly  avow,  if  the  blood  be  not 
upon  their  own  heads. 

The  minister  put  several  questions  of  a  pub- 
lic nature  to  us  while  we  sat  at  table.  He  asked. 
If  an  account  of  the  present  mission  would  be 
transmitted  to  the  King  of  England  ?  I  replied 
to  this,  Tliat  circumstantial  accounts  of  every 
transaction  of  the  Indian  Government  were  re- 
gularly transmitted  to  England.  Upon  hearing 
this  explanation,  he  asked  pointedly.  Whether  the 
King  of  England,  when  he  heard  the  result  of 
the  present  mission,  would  address  a  letter  to 
the  King  of  Siam?  I  replied.  That  his  Ma- 
jesty the  King  of  England  had  generally  dele- 
gated his  authority  to  the  Governor-general  of 
India,  but  that,  if  it  were  particularly  wished 
for  by  the  King  of  Siam,  I  made  no  question 
but  a  letter  would  be  immediately  addressed  to 
him.  There  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  these  and 
the  similar  questions  put  during  the  audience, 
were  dictated  by  the  pride  of  the  Siamese  Govern- 
ment, which  was  evidently  reluctant  to  maintain 
an  equal  intercourse  with  the  delegated  Govern- 
ment of  India,  aAd  courted  a  direct  one  with 
the  Sovereign.  With  respect  to  the  East  India 
Company,  it  is  absolutely  unknown  as  such  by 
the  princes  of  the  further  East,  who  could  not, 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  157 

were  it  right  to  attempt  an  explanation,  be  made 
capable  of  comprehending  the  delegation  of  a 
vast  political  power  to  a  body  of  merchants. 
Even  the  natives  of  Hindustan,  who  frequently 
lise  the  English  word  "  Company/'  attach  no 
other  meaning  to  it  than  the  governing  power, 
or  supreme  political  authority  as  exercised  by  the 
English. 

In  reference  to  the  reception  which  we  had  re- 
ceived in  the  morning,  Suri-wung-kosa  observed. 
That  he  trusted  we  were  now  well  pleased  that 
we  had  visited  Siam,  after  the  reception  which 
his  Majesty  had  given  us  in  the  morning ;  and 
he  added,  **  You  are  about  to  visit  other  coun- 
tries, and  from  the  reception  you  get  there,  you 
will  have  an  opportunity  of  appreciating  the  ho- 
nours which  have  been  conferred  upon  you  by 
the  Court  of  Siam."  The  minister  now  begged 
to  inform  us  that  his  Majesty  would  in  future, 
discharge  the  expenses  of  the  mission ;  and  a 
silver  bowl,  containing  240  ticals,*  was,  with  con- 
siderable ostentation,  placed  upon  the  table,  and  I 
was  requested  to  accept  of  this  money,  as  .a 
month's  allowance  for  our  whole  party.  The  pal- 
triness of  this  sum,  which  was  scarcely  adequate 
to  forty-eight  hours'  ordinary  consumption  of  the 
persons  attached  to  the  mission,  I  am  convinced 
never  struck  the  Siamese   officers: — I  have  no 

*  The  tical  is  worth  about  half-a-crown. 


158  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

doubt,  on  the  contrary,  that  they  thought  they 
were  acquitting  themselves  handsomely, — such  is 
the  sordid  and  pitiful  manner  in  which  the  Go- 
vernment is  accustomed  to  reward  its  own  offi- 
cers, even  those  exercising  the  highest  trusts  ;  and 
such,  in  a  word,  is  the  real  poverty  both  of  Go- 
vernment and  people !  I  endeavoured  to  explain 
that  we  were  all  amply  and  liberally  remunerated 
by  our  own  Government,  and  that  it  was  for- 
bidden to  persons  in  public  employment  to  ac- 
cept of  money  from  strangers,  or  for  the  dis- 
charge of  a  public  duty.  It  was  necessary,  how- 
ever, in  the  sequel,  to  accept  of  his  Siamese 
Majesty's  bounty,  in  compliance  with  immemo- 
rial usage,  and  to  prevent  giving  umbrage;  for 
a  gift  by  his  Majesty,  whatever  .  its  amount  or 
nature,  is  considered  to  confer  so  great  an  ho- 
nour upon  the  person  who  receives  it,  that  to 
reject  it  would  be  viewed  by  his  subjects  as  little 
better  thim  an  act  of  sacrilege. 

The  demeanour  of  Suri-wung-kosa  during  this 
visit,  was  not  peculiarly  prepossessing.  His  man- 
ner was  cold,  without  being  well-bred  or  digni- 
fied. To  the  inferior  persons  who  accompanied 
him,  he  was  coarse  and  familiar.  These  indivi- 
duals consisted  chiefly  of  Christians  and  Moham- 
medans, whose  situation  was  not  very  enviable; 
for  the  first,  consisting  of  the  Portuguese  inter- 
preters, and   even    the  Intendant   of   the   port, 


AND   COCHIK   CHINA. 


159 


waited  upon  us  at  table  as  footmen,  and  the  last 
were  compelled,  to  feign  to  relish  his  Excellency's 
bad  jokes  respecting  their  prejudice  against  pork 
and  wine,  which  he  pressed  them  to  partake  of. 


Wliitr  Moi^ey  in  the  Elrphant  atablfs. 


Siamese  Temple. 

CHAPTER  V. 

Mission  visited  bj  the  Portuguese  Consul. — Rapacity  of  the 
Court. — Visit  to  the  Portuguese  Consul. — Visit  to  Siamese 
Temples. — Number  and  Variety  of  the  Votaries. — Visit  to 
the  town  of  Bang-kok. — Buddhist  Temple. — Hindu  Temple. 
— Ancient  Ruins.  —  Commencement  of  the  Negotiation. — 
Relics  of  Gautama. — Despatches  sent  by  the  Mission  acroet 
the  Peninsula. — Visit  to  the  Prince  Krom^chiat.— Opinion 
entertained  by  the  Siamese  respecting  our  Indian  Conquests. 
—  Funeral  of  a  Siamese. — Excursion  to  the  Neighbourhood 
of  Bang-kok. — Religious  Regard  of  the  Siamese  for  Ani- 
mal Life.  —  Splendid  Temple  constructing  by  tlie  Prince 
Krom-chiat. — Negotiation  renewed. — King's  Character  and 
Employments. — Annual  Ceremony  of  the  King*s  holding  the 
Plough.  —  Punishment  of  a  Christian  Interpreter. — ^ArriYal 
of  a  Portuguese  and  an  English  Merchant  Vessel. 

April  9. — We  received  this  morning  a  visit 
from  Mr.  De  Silveiro.    This  gentleman  had  come 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  161 

to  Siam  about  two  years  before,  with  the  title 
of  Consul  from  the  Viceroy  of  Gk)a.  The  Sia- 
mese Government  had  given  him  a  small  piece 
of  ground  to  build  a  factory  upon,  and  he  had 
also  commenced  the  building  of  a  large  ship. 
Mr.  de  Silveiro,  whom  we  frequently  saw  during 
our  residence  in  Siam,  was  a  native  of  the  Bra* 
zils.  He  spoke  French  and  English  with  facility, 
and  made  many  communications  to  us  with  frank-^ 
ness,  from  the  respectable  stock  of  local  informa- 
tion which  he  had  already  collected. 

In  the  evening  Ko-chai-sahak  called,  and  took 
care  to  remind  us  that  we  had  dropped  some 
hints  respecting  certain  small  presents  which  we 
intended  to  present  to  the  King  and  the  Prince 
Krom-chiat.  These  consisted  of  some  specta- 
cles, and  a  few  specimens  of  English  cutlery. 
Such  was  the  anxiety  even  for  these  trifles,  that 
the  officers  of  Grovemment  had  not  the  deco- 
rum to  wait  until  they  were  regularly  offi^red. 
In  this  visit,  Ko-chai-sahak  made  various  attempts 
to  extract  from  us  the  objiect  of  our  visit  to  Co- 
dain  China;  but,  above  all,  to  ascertain  the  na-^ 
ture  and  value  of  the  presents  intended  for  that 
Court.  He  received  no  satisfaction  upon  these 
points ;  not  because  concealment  was  of  any  ad- 
vantage to  us,  but  because  explanation  was  not 
due  to  a  conduct  that  was  obviously  indelicate 
and  improper. 

April  10.— I  had  a  message  from  the  Prah- 

VOI-.   !•  M 


162  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

klang  to  know  which  of  the  princes  or  chief 
officers  of  Govanment  we  wished  to  visit ;  and 
hints  at  the  same  time  were  thrown  out,  with  a 
view  of  ascertaining  what  presents  we  intended 
to  offer  to  each.  I  replied,  that  I  would  widt 
upon  any  of  the  princes  whom  he  would  point 
out  as  proper  to  visit ;  but  considering  the  hints 
respecting  presents  indecorous,  I  took  no  notice 
of  them.  It  was  evident,  however,  that  our  visits 
were  chiefly  requested  on  account  of  the  presents 
expected,  and  that  our  acquaintance  was  not  con- 
sidered of  any  value  without  them.  There  were, 
at  this  time,  two  parties  at  the  Court  of  Siam: 
at  the  head  of  one  of  which,  was  the  Prince 
Krom-chiat  and  the  then  Prah-klang;  and  at 
that  of  the  other,  the  Prince  Chao-fa,*  the  eldest 
legitimate  son  of  the  King,  and  his  maternal  un- 
cles. The  Prah-klang,  therefore,  was  perhaps 
glad,  on  this  occasion,  to  avail  himself  of  any  ex- 
cuse to  prevent  an  intercourse  between'  us  and 
)iis  rivals. 

April  11. — The  Chinese  festival  of  Lanterns 
commenced  to-day,  an  occasion  which  seems  to  be 
equally  respected  by  the  Siamese.  No  business 
whatever  was  transacted,  and  the  time  was  de- 
voted to  amusements,  to  religious  ceremonies,  to 
feasting,  and  to  making  presents  to  the  Talapoins. 
At  night  the  Chinese  vessels  in  the  river  were 

*  Literally,  Lord  of  the  heavens,  or  aky. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  16S 

decked  with  lanterns^  presenting  a  fanciful  and 
striking  appearance.  The .  Siamese  call  this  fes- 
tival Sung-kran,  which  is  prohahly  the  corruption 
of  some  Sanscrit  or  Bali  term. 

In  the  afternoon  we  returned  the  visit  of  Mr» 
de  Silveiro,  at  the  Portuguese  factory,  which  was 
about  two  miles  farther  down  the  river  than  our 
own  dwelling.  The  Menam  exhibited  a  scene  of 
considerable  activity,  and  afforded  evidence  of  the 
exkt^ice  of  a  respectable  trade.  We  counted 
seventy  junks,  large  and  small,  engaged  in  foreign 
trade.  There  were  five  or  six  of  the  largest  de- 
scription on  the  stocks,  and,  besides  these,  there 
was  a  numerous  small  craft  engaged  in  the  in- 
ternal trade,  as  well  as  many  rafts  conveying  mer- 
chandize. Mr.  Silveiro  showed  u&  the  ship  which 
he  was  building,  and  which  was  a  vessel  of  be- 
tween three  and  four  hundred  tons  burthen, 
aitirely  of  Siamese  teak. 

April  12. — We  were  now  at  full  liberty  to  go 
abroad,  and,  in  consequence,  this  morning  passed 
several  hours  in  examining  some  Siamese  temples. 
A  temple,  or  monastery — for  they  are  nearly  in- 
separable, called  in  the  language  of  the  country, 
Wat  or  Wata, — is  always  a  large  square  enclo- 
sure, consisting  Of  the  following  parts— a  place 
of  worship,  with  the  images  of  Gautama,  an  ex* 
teiwve  area,  a  library,  and  the  dwellings  of  the 
Talapoins*  The  largest  temple  which  we  visited 
pn  this  occasion  is  called,  in  Siamese,  Prah-chet- 

M  2 


164  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM' 

tiip-pon,  or  the  **  temple  of  the  people/'  because 
accessible  to  every  one.  A  sketch  of  this  build- 
ing will  suffice  to  convey  a  notion  of  all  Sia- 
mese temples.  Each  side  of  the  wall  which  sur- 
rounds it  measures  a  hundred  Siamese  fathoms, 
or  six  hundred  and  fifty  English  feet.  The  cen- 
tral building  is  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
and  contains  a  single  sitting  figure  of  Buddha, 
of  gigantic  proportions.  The  walls  of  the  fane 
are  hung  with  painted  paper,  containing  mytho- 
logical representations,  and  the  gilding,  carving, 
and  other  decorations  are  highly  laboured. 

Around  this  central  temple,  and  upon  a  ter- 
race, was  a  series  of  small  pyramidal  pagodas 
surmounted  by  a  spire.  Each  of  these  contained 
a  stone  not  unlike  in  form  to  a  bishop's  ndtre ; 
on  which  very  solid  ground  it  was,  that  some 
of  the  early  Roman  missionaries  fancied  that 
Christianity  and  prelacy  must  have  been  esta- 
Uished  in  Siam  in  remote  times.  These  stones 
are  considered  essential  to  every  temple,  but  no 
pne  can  tell  either  their  origin  or  object. 

Surrounding  the  main  temple,  and  after  the 
intervention  of  an  area  of  considerable  extent, 
there  was  a  triple  square-formed  range  of  biiild^ 
ings,  each  row  of  which  was  c&nnected  with  the 
other  at  the  angles.  Each  of  these  angles  again 
consisted  of  three  distinct  temples,  one  belong- 
ing to  each  row,  so  as  to  make  the  whole  amount 
to  twelve  in  number.    They  were  connected  with 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  165 

each  other  by  long  galleries  of  about  half  their 
own  height.  Several  of  the  twelve  fanes  now 
aUuded  to  contained  gigantic  statues  of  Gau- 
tama, and  the  galleries  an  endless  series  of  images 
of  the  same  deity,  smaller,  but  all  much  above  the 
human  size. 

The  first  of  the  distinct  fanes  of  this  portion 
of  the  building  to  which  we  were  introduced, 
contained  a  figure  of  Buddha  in  an  erect  posture, 
of  the  enormous  height  of  five  fathoms  and  a  half 
Siamese,  which  is  equal  to  thirty-five  feet  and 
three  quarters^  English.  The  breadth  of  the 
image  at  the  shoulders  was  six  cubits,  and  the 
length  of  each  foot  two  cubits  and  two  inches. 
This  idol  was  principally  composed  of  brass,  but 
some  portion  of  the  drapery  was  of  wood — a  cir- 
cumstance, however,  which  we  should  not  have 
discovered,  without  being  told  of  it,  for  the 
figure  is  richly  gilt  all  over,  so  as  completely  to 
conceal  the  nature  of  the  materials  of  which  it 
is  composed.  In  the  wall  of  the  chamber  which 
contained  this  image  was  a  stone  tablet,  with  an 
inscription  in  the  mixed  Bali  and  Siamese  cha^ 
racter.  This  was  explained  to  us  by  the  chief 
lay-attendant ;  and  its  purport  was,  that  the  tem« 
pie  was  built  in  the  year  2338,  of  the  sacred  era 
of  the  Siamese,  corresponding  with  the  year 
1795.  The  most  curious  portion  of  the  inscrip^ 
tion  is  the  estimate  which  it  gives  of  the  cost 
of  the  whole  temple.    The  single  item  of  dear* 


166  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

ing  the  ground  on  which  it  stands,  and  making 
provision  for  the  original  occupants,  who  were 
turned  out,  is  reckoned  at  16,400  ticals,  and 
the  total  charge  is  stated  to  have  amounted  to 
465,440  ticals.  These  sums  in  sterling  money, 
valuing  the  tical  at  2«.  6d,  are  equivalent  to 
58,180/.  A  second  chamber  exhibited  Gautama 
jsitting  under  a  fig-tree  (Jicus  reUgiosa).  The 
tree,  with  its  branches,  leaves,  and  fruit,  were 
tolerably  well  imitated.  It  was  of  considerable 
height.  The  paper-hangings  of  this  chamber  te> 
presented  the  war  of  the  Ramayana. 

A  third  chamber  represented  the  god,  with 
two  votaries,  or  disciples,  in  an  attitude  of  sup- 
plication before  him.  The  figures  of  Gautama, 
in  these  two  last  chambers,  represented  him  in 
the  usual  sitting  attitude,  with  the  legs  crossed, 
and  the  s<4es  of  the  feet  turned  up. 

In  a  fourth  chamber  he  is  represented  sitting 
on  a  secluded  mountain.  At  his  feet  are  an 
dephant  presenting  a  cup  of  water,  and  an  ape 
offering  him  a  honeycomb  from  the  branch  of  a 
tree.  The  figures  of  these  animals  are  of  Imiss, 
and  not  gilded,— being,  indeed,  the  only  ones 
that  are  not  so,  throughout  the  temple.  The 
walls  of  this  chamber  contain  representations  of 
the  Hindoo  creation,  and  full-sissed  figures  of 
natives  of  Lao,  Pegue,  China,  Tartary,  Hindus- 
tan, and  Persia.  The  objects  thus  represented, 
we  were  told,  were  considered  matters  of  indif- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  l67 

ference,  as  they  were  purely  ornamental,  and  not 
of  a  religious  character.  There  appeared,  indeed, 
no  question  respecting  this  point ;  for  the  wall 
of  the  same  chamber  was  also  decorated  with 
several  Chinese  copies  of  French  and  English 
pints,  by  no  mean$  according  with  the  character 
of  the  building — such,  for  example,  as  the  por- 
trait of  an  English  lady — ^*  la  pensive  Anglaise  T 

A  £fth  chamber  contained  Gautama,  again  sit- 
ting under  a  fig-tree,  upon  the  coils  of  a  seven* 
headed  and  hooded  snake,  the  heads  forming  a 
canopy  over  him.  This  idol,  induding  the  pe- 
destal, or,  in  other  words,  the  coils  of  the  snake, 
measured  twenty-four  feet  high.  The  represent 
tutions  on  the  walls  here,  exhibited  sketches  of 
the  modem  city  of  Bang-kok.  The  river  is 
shown,  with  Chinese  junks  and  European  ship- 
ping; and  among  the  most  prominent  figures 
are  several  Europeans,  in  the  grotesque  costume 
of  the  end  of  the  seventeenth  and  beginning  of 
the  eighteenth  centuries. 

In  a  sixth  chamber,  the  god  is  represented 
with  five  votaries  before  him,  and  a  minister 
at  his  feet  publishing  his  orders.  Here  the  pa* 
per-hangings  represented  Gautama  preaching- to 
the  assembled  deities  of  the  Hindoo  Pantheon. 

The  long  galleries  which  connected  these 
chambers  were  occupied,  without  interruption, 
with  the  images  of  Gautama, — all  in  a  sitting 
attitude,  ranged  in  regular  order,  and  of  an  uni* 


168  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

form  size  in  each  gallery.  The  area,  whidi  in^ 
tervenes  between  this  <^tral  temple  and  the 
quadrangular  range,  contains  at  each  comer  a 
tall  pyramid  of  masonry,  with  an  iron  trident 
at  its  apex.  These,  although  I  am  not  ac- 
quainted with  their  intention,  seem  to  be  inse- 
parable from  every  Siamese  temple. 

Between  the  quadrangular  portion  of  the 
building  now  described,  and  the  outer  waU,  is 
an  extensive  area,  in  which  are  several  scattered 
and  detached  buildings.  The  first  of  these  which 
we  entered  was  a  long  arcade,  which  contained 
no  images;  but  on  the  walls  of  which  were 
daubed  many  human  figures,  thrown  into  at- 
titudes the  most  whimsical,  distorted,  and  un- 
natural that  can  well  be  conceived.  Under 
these  figures  were  inscriptions  in  the  vernacu- 
lar language,  giving  directions  how  to  assume 
the  attitudes  in  question,  and  recommending 
them  as  infallible  remedies  for  the  cure  of  cer- 
tain diseases.  In  many  of  the  cases  which  we 
saw,  the  remedy,  if  practicable,  would  certainly 
be  worse  than  the  disease,  whatever  that  might 
be. 

We  were  next  conducted  to  certain  dark  and 
gloomy  galleries,  corresponding  in  number  and 
position  with  the  sides  of  the  quadrangle.  These 
contained  a  great  number  of  fiigures  of  Buddha, 
remarkable  for  the  variety  of  attitudes  in  which 
they  were  exhibited,  when  compared  to  the  ge- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  169 

nerai  uniformity  which  prevails  on  this  subject. 
A  few  were  in  the  usual  sitting  posture,  a  great 
many  were  standing;  some  were  upon  their 
knees,  with  the  body  thrown  backward;  and 
some  were  reclining  at  full  length,  supported  by 
pillows  and  cushions.  One  figure  of  Gautama, 
but  one  only,  was  exhibited  as  dead,  in  a  wooden 
coffin,  the  lid  and  front  side  of  which  were  left 
open,  and  a  votary  was  seen  embracing  the  feet. 

The  chapel  was  the  next  object  shown.  This 
was  an  oblong  square  building,  which  contain* 
ed  a  large  figure  of  Gautama,  with  a  smaUw 
one  on  each  side,  and  two  pulpits  very  richly 
carved  and  gilded.  Close  to  the  chapel,  but 
distinct  from  it,  was  the  library,  which  seem- 
ed to  be  viewed  as  the  most  sacred  portion  of 
the  whole  building.  This  alone  was  in  the 
immediate  charge  of  the  priests,  of  whom  we 
scarcely  saw  one  in  the  body  of  the  temple. 
They  hesitated  to  admit  us  into  the  interior; 
but  we  offered,  of  our  own  accord,  to  pull  off 
our  shoes  before  entering— and  this  little  civi- 
lity induced  them  to  open  the  doors  at  once, 
without  insisting  upon  any  inconvenient  cere- 
mony on  our  part.  The  library  was  as  rich  in 
decoration,  as  carving,  gilding,  and  bright  ver- 
milion could  make  it;  and  this  was  not  con- 
fined to  the  inside  only,  but  extended  also  to 
parts  exposed  to  the  weather.  The  platform 
on  which  it  j^tood,  however,  was   composed  of 


170  EMBASSY   TO   SIAlf 

rough  planks  ill-joined,  and  8o  was  the  flight 
of  stairs  which  formed  the  ascent  to  it — these 
parts  affording  a  contrast  truly  barbarian,  with 
the  building  itself.  The  centre  of  the  library 
contained  a  sort  of  ark,  or  sanctuary,  composed 
of  a  dome  surmounted  by  a  spire.  The  work- 
manship  of  this  was  rich  and  elaborate  beyond 
the  rest.  The  doors  were  thrown  open  to  per- 
mit us  to  inspect  from  a  distance  the  sacred 
vcdumes^  which,  we  were  told,  were  fifty  in 
number.  To  gratify  our  curiosity,  one  was 
taken  out;  it  consisted,  like  all  other  books 
of  the  same  description  in  this  country,  of 
long  narrow  slips  of  palm-leaf,  filed  at  both 
ends  on  a  cord.  The  writing,  which  was  in 
the  Bali,  or  religious  character,  seemed  to  be 
neatly  executed.  The  edges  of  the  volume  were 
richly  gilded,  and  the  manuscript  had  in  all  re- 
spects a  neat  and  handsome  appearance. 

Between  the  library  and  chapel  there  was  a 
small  pond,  which  contained  a  considerable^  quan- 
tity of  fiidh,  and  a  single  alligator,  which  the 
priests  were  in  the  habit  of  feeding. 

One  or  more  tall  spires  would  appear  to  be  a 
necessary  and  inseparable  portion  of  every  Siam- 
ese temple.  The  area  which  I  am  now  descri- 
bing contained  no  less  than  twenty-one— a  group; 
consisting  of  one  large  and  four  small  ones,  being 
distributed  at  each  comer  of  the  square.  Be* 
^des  thoi^,  there  was  one  remarkable  spire  close 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  171 

to  one  of  the  gateways;  this  measured  ninety- 
seven  feet  to  a  side  at  the  base,  which  was  square^ 
and  its  height  was  described  to  us  to  be  one 
hundred  and  sixty-two  English  feet.  These  spires 
are  called,  by  the  Siamese,  Prah-ch^-di,  and  are 
the  same  which  are  known  in  Ceylon  by  the  name 
of  a  Dagoba. 

Towards  each  of  the  four  gateways  of  the  en-j 
closure,  are  a  pair  of  monstrous  and  gigantic  stcU 
tues,  representing  warders.  This  is  an  enume-^ 
ration  of  all  that  is  contained  within  the  walls 
of  the  temple;  the  entrances  to  which  are  by 
four  arched  gateways,  of  laboured  architecture, 
each  surmounted  by  the  favourite  spire. 

After  passing  the  walls  of  the  temple,  we  still 
meet  several  detached  objects  connected  with  the 
establishment.  The  principal  of  these  are  the 
cells  of  the  Talapoins ;  for  every  Siamese  temple 
is  not  only  a  place  of  worship,  but  also  a  mo- 
nastery. The  ciells  of  the  monastery  now  de* 
gcribed  were  wooden  structures,  raised  on  pillars, 
and  extending  in  a  regular  range  along  one  whole 
face  of  the  square. 

As  we  passed  towards  these,  and  dose  to  one  of 
the  gates  of  the  temple,  we  perceived  a  hand- 
some belfry,  and  near  to  it  an  enormous  urn,  full 
twenty  feet  high,  formed  of  brick  and  mortar. 
Here  are  deposited  the  ashes  of  all  the  high- 
priests  of  this  temple.  There  is  no  door  or 
other  entry  to  it;  and  an  aperture  must  there* 


172  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

fore  be  made  whenever  there  is  occasion  to  make 
a  fresh  deposit  Not  far  from  this  spot  we  saw 
the  chief-priest»  seemingly  no  pattern  of  humility 
or  moderation.  He  was  conveyed  in  a  crimson 
silk  litter  by  inferior  priests,  and  had  over  him 
a  yellow  umbrella,  an  emblem  of  high  honour 
and  distinction.  We  would  willingly  have  held 
some  conversation  with  this  dignitary,  and  sent 
him  a  message  to  that  effect,  but  he  did  not 
seem  to  be  desirous  of  our  acquaintance. 

The  temple  which  we  had  now  visited  con- 
tained, as  we'^were  informed,  no  less  than  fifteen 
hundred  images,  large  and  small,  four  hundred 
of  which  were  of  gigantic  proportions.  This 
statement  is  most  probably  an  exaggeration ;  but 
certainly,  situated  as  we  were,  I  can  safely  say 
they  were  too  numerous  for  us  to  count.  The 
number  of  regular  Talapoins  attached  to  the 
temple,  or,  as  we  should  express  it,  on  the  foun- 
dation, we  were  told  was  five  hundred,  and  the 
number  of  novidates,  or  pupils,  seven  hundred 
and  fifty. 

Having  recrossed  the  river,  we  visited  another 
temple,  much  smaller  than  the  one  now  descri- 
bed, but  neater  and  in  better  order :  its  general 
plan  resembled  the  last.  There  was  a  quadran- 
gular wall,  with  four  gates ;  a  wide  area,  con* 
taining  the  chapel,  library,  and  other  detached 
buildings,  with  the  sacred  spires  or  Prah-ch^- 
dis,  9  single  quadrangular  range  of  buildings ; 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  *         178 

and  finally,  after  the  intervention  of  a  small 
area,  one  great,  central  temple.  In  this  case,  the 
quadrangular  range  was  a  colonnade,  open  towards 
the  temple ;  and,  as  we  had  an  opportunity  our>« 
selves  of  ascertaining,  for  we  counted  them,  con« 
tained  one  hundred  and  twenty  sitting  figures 
of  Gautama,  all  gilt,  and  of  gigantic  propor- 
tions. The  central  temple  contained  three  great 
figures  of  Gautama.  Among  its  ornaments  were 
some  English  and  Chinese  mirrors,  several  of  them 
in  handsome  gold-burnished  frames.  There  were 
also  several  lustres  of  cut-glass  of  English  manu- 
facture. During  our  visit,  two  large  and  costly 
Chinese  mirrors  arrived  at  the  temple,  as  a 
present  from  the  King.  They  were  in  standing 
frames,  and  on  pedestals,  and  intended  as  screens 
to  be  placed  before  the  principal  idols.  The 
workmen  began  to  put  them  up  while  we  were 
present. 

All  around  the  inner  temple,  there  were  hand- 
some earthen  jars,  with  some  plants  of  the  In- 
dian lotus  {Nelumbo  ImUca)  growing  in  each; 
which  had  a  very  pretty  effect.  The  area  be- 
tween it  and  the  colonnade  was  paved  with  slabs^ 
of  Chinese  granite. 

All  the  temples  of  Siam  are  constructed  of 
brick  and  mortar ;  the  roof  is  made  of  timber, 
covered  with  red  tiles; — and  all  the  principal 
structures  are  of  a  square  form,  with  gable- 
ends.     The  arch    and    dome  seem   nearly   un- 


174         '  EMBASSY    TO   8IAM 

known  to  Siamese  architecture.    All  the  build- 
ings are  of  one  story  only,  in  consequence  of 
the  prejudice  to  which  I  have  already  alluded, 
< — the  strange  horror  which    ev^ry   man  enter* 
tains,  confining  the  expression  to  its  literal  sense, 
of  suffering  his  neighbour  to  pass  over  his  head. 
That  portion  of  the  building  which  is  of  masonry, 
is  thickly  coated  over  with  plaster,    in  which 
there  is  no  dearth  of  rude  ornament,  but  the 
materials  are  coarse,  and  this  part  of  the  work- 
manship is  not  skilfully  finished.    The  greatest 
skill,  labour,  and  expense^   are  bestowed   upon 
that  portion  of  the  buildings  which  is  of  wood, 
in    which    are    comprehended    the    gaUe-eitds, 
eaves,  doors,   window-frames,  and  shutters,  and 
the  whole  inside  of  the  roof.     These  are  paint- 
ed, varnished,  gilt,  and  carved  in  the  most  pro- 
fuse and  laborious  manner — ali  this  decorati<m 
being  equally  bestowed  upon  what  is  exposed 
to  the  open  air,  as  upon  what  is  under  cover. 
Of  the  images,  the  greater  number  were  a  coni- 
position  of  mortar  and  plaster ;  but,  whether  of 
this  coarser  material  or  of  metal,  they  were  in- 
variably and  throughout  ridily  gilt. 

With  all  this  labour  and  expense,  a  Siamese 
temple  seems  far  from  being  calculated  to  ex- 
cite those  feelings  of  revanence  and  sc^mnity 
which  should  belong  to  a  place  of  worship. 
The  want  of  magnitude  in  any  one  part,  the 
want  of   height   every   where,  and    the    meiui 


AKD  COCHIN  CHINA.  175 

and  perishable  nature  of  some  portion  of  the 
materials^  with  the  gaudy  meretridousness  of 
others,  lire  far  from  being  calculated,  accord- 
ing  to  European  notions,  to  exdte  sentiments 
either  of  respect  or  veneration.  Although,  per- 
haps, not  less  costly  and  more  ostentatious,  they 
are  greatly  inferior  in  grandeur,  and  even  in 
taste,  to  the  Hindoo  and  Mohammedan  monu^ 
ments  of  Western  India,  as  well  as  to  the  an- 
dent  monuments  of  Java,  consecrated  to  the 
9ame  form  of  worship  as  themselves. 

This  character  of  the  temples  of  Siam  may 
be  accounted  for  without  difficulty.  The  allu- 
vial tract  bf  the  Menam  affords  no  materials  for 
a  substantial  and  durable  architecture ;  and  thus 
what  would  have  been  expended  on  solid  ma^ 
terials,  is  wasted  upon  gilding,  carving,  and 
otiber  temporary  embellishments.  The  frame  of 
sodety,  perhaps,  greatly  contributes  to  the  same 
effect  Every  temple  is  built  and  endowed  by 
some  one  in  power,  from  personal  motives  of 
piety  or  ostentation.  He  can  leave  behind  him, 
from  the  character  of  the  Government,  no  se- 
cure funds  for  the  maintenance  of  the  establish- 
ment, and  no  successor  capable  of  supporting 
it  The  absence  of  a  liereditary  priesthood  in- 
terested in  maintaining  the  honour  and  character 
of  particular  temples,  most  probably  conduces 
to  the  same  result  The  motives,  therefore,  to 
construct    lasting     monuments    do    not    exist. 


176  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

There  are  scarcely,  I  am  told,  aoy  ancient 
monuments  in  Siam,  notwithstanding  the  reli* 
gious  zeal,  which  is  evidently  predominant. 
Several  of  the  temples  of  Bang-kok,  although 
the  place  is  little  more  than  forty  years  old, 
are  already  in  a  state  of  decay  and  neglect; 
and  many  of  the  splendid  temples  of  the  old 
capital,  described  to  us  by  the  European  writers 
of  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  are  at 
present  abandoned  and  in  a  state  of  ruin,  the 
principal  images  having  been  transported  to  the 
present  seat  of  Government* 

During  the  visit  which  I  have  just  described, 
all  the  temples,  but  particularly  the  larger  one, 
were,  on  account  of  the  holidays,  crowded  with 
visitors,  and  this  incident  afforded  us  a  striking 
picture  of  the  manners  and  habits  of  the  people. 
The  votaries  were  of  all  ages  and  sexes,  and  the 
women  were  not  less  numerous  than  the  men. 
The  bulk  were  Siamese,  but  there  were  also  Co- 
chin Chinese,  Cambojans,  people  of  Loo  and  Fe^ 
gue,  and  a  great  number  of  Chinese,  Instead  of 
the  gravity  and  decorum  which  might  have  been 
looked  for  in  a  temple,  the  demeanour  of  the 


*  Another  cause,  beyond  those  referred  to  in  the  text^  is, 
that  the  great  religious  merit  consists  in  bnildinff  a  temple; 
whereas,  there  is  little  or  none  in  repairing  or  keeping  it  up. 
This  accounts,  in  a  great  measure,  both  for  the  great  number  of 
temples  which  exist,  and  the  want  of  durability  in  their  ma- 
terials* 


/MKt3K-  Y:<vj:^:j.s-^ . 


^MA.ury::-:!^    r/iAn, 


AND   COCHIN    CHINA.  ,      177 

visitors  was  noisy,  clamorous,  and  playful.  They 
were  at  one  moment  prostrate  before  the  idols, 
and  at  another  engaged  in  some  frolic,  or  singing 
an  idle  song.  One  man,  for  example,  coolly  light- 
ed his  segar  at  an  incense-rod  which  a  devotee  had 
just  placed  as  an  offering  before  one  of  the  idols, 
and  another  deliberately  sat  down  before  an  image 
and  played  a  merry  air  on  a  flageolet,  while  many 
were  engaged  at  the  same  shrine  in  performing 
their  devotions. 

The  women  mixed  in  the  crowd,  unveiled,  as 
indeed  they  always  are,  and  were  neither  shy  nor 
timid ;  on  the  contrary,  there  was  considerable 
familiarity  between  the  sexes;  and  our  conduc* 
tors,  Mohammedans,  hinted  to  us,  although  I  can* 
not  pretend  to  say  with  how  much  truth,  that  the 
temples  were  frequent  places  of  assignation.  All 
this  levity  certainly  formed  a  very  striking  con- 
trast to  the  decent  and  reverencial  devotion  of  a 
Christian,  or  even  of  a  Mohammedan  people,  and 
struck  us  with  surprise. 

The  women  were  the  most  decorous  in  the  per- 
formance of  their  religious  duties,  and  also  the 
most  assiduous.  They  went  about  sprinkling  the 
images  with  perfumes,  and  making  offerings  to 
them.  The  oblations  were  of  various  descriptions 
— such  as  lighted  incense-rods;  fresh  lotus,  and 
other  flowers;  chaplets  of  artificial  flowers,  and 
cloths  of  various  descriptions.  There  were,  in- 
deed, few  of  the  many  idols  which  I  have  mcn- 

VOL.   I.  N 


178  £MBAi»SY   TO   SIAM 

tioned^  that  were  not  decked  with  a  scarf  of  alk 
or  cotton  cloth»  commonly  of  a  yellow  colour,  the 
offering  of  some  votary.  The  Chinese,  on  their 
part,  burned  sacrificial  paper,  and  hung  up,  as 
▼otive  offerings,  from  the  roofs  of  the  temples, 
banners  of  cloth  or  paper  with  Chinese  inscrip- 
tions upon  them. 

No  officiating  priests  were  to  be  seen  ;  and,  in 
truth,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  there  was  not 
a  Talapoin  within  the  precincts  of  the  temple,  ex- 
cept the  few  whom  we  met  in  the  library,  and 
these  were  distant  from  the  crowd,  and  appeared 
to  take  no  share  whatever  in  what  was  passing. 

I  should  mention,  that  those  who  frequented 
the  temple  were  not  confined  to  the  lower  classes. 
One  group  of  well-dressed  females  was  pointed 
out  to  us,  consisting  of  above  thirty  pearsons. 
These  were  one  of  the  concubines,  and  an  infant- 
child  of  the  Prince  Krom-chiat,  with  their  atten- 
dants. The  infant,  apparently  not  above  three 
years  of  age,  appeared  to  have  been  well-tutojed, 
for  he  went  through  his  prostrations  with  great 
composure  before  the  principal  image  in  the  cen- 
tral temple.  Several  of  the  followers  were  young 
and  handsome;  and  we  were  somewhat  surprised, 
at  hearing  our  conductors  request  us  to  point  out 
any  amongst  them  that  we  might  desire  to  form  a 
matrimonial  connexion  with  during  our  stay  in 
Siam. 

Our  appearance  in  the  crowd  excited  a  degree 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  179 

of  cariosity,  which  stopped  short  only  of  nideness* 
— We  were  followed  wherever  we  went.  Our 
presence  was  soQietimes  announced  by  shouts, 
and  a  hundred  idle  questions  were  put  to  us, 
which  either  our  interpreters  would  not  explain 
to  us,  or  we  had  no  time  or  inclination  to  answer. 
A  strong  inclination  was  also  felt  to  ascertam,  by 
personal  examination,  the  quality  and  texture  of 
our  dress,  and  the  nature  and  use  of  the  trinkets 
which  we  had  about  our  persons.  In  all  this,  the 
ludicrous  importance  and  vanity  of  the  Siamese 
character  was  conspicuous,  even  among  the  lowest 
persons  whom  we  encountered. 

April  13. — ^We  made  an  excursion  this  morn- 
ing through  the  town  of  Bang-kok.  The  ground 
on  which  it  is  built  is  a  rich  tract  of  alluvial 
land,  low,  but  not  marshy,  and  intersected  by 
numerous  winding  creeks  and  canals.  We  cross- 
ed the  river,  from  our  dwelling,  towards  the 
palace,  which  lies  along  the  western  bank  of  the 
river.  A  kind  of  canal  surrounds  it,  and  this, 
which  was  navigable,  and  communicated  with 
the  river,  we  entered  in  our  boats  at  the  southern 
angle  of  the  fortification,  passing  under  the  wallsr 
which  had  some  mean  bastions,  with  small  embra-- 
sures,  but  no  cannon.  Tlie  canal  was  crowded 
with  merchant-boats,  loaded  with  rice,  salt,  cotton, 
dried  fish,  oil,  dye-woods,  &c.  As  we  passed 
along,  there  was  pointed  out  to  us,  on  our  right- 
hand,  the  residence  of  the  fugitive  prince  who,^ 

N  2 


180  EMBASSY   TO    81AM 

under  countenance  of  the  Siamese  Government, 
lays  claim  to  the  throne  of  Kamboja:  it  was  a 
very  poor  dwelling,  indeed. 

In  our  progress,  we  had  to  pass  under  a  bridge, 
which,  after  the  profusion  of  expense  which  we 
had  lately  witnessed  in  the  temples,  afforded  a 
surprising  example  of  the  stupid  inattention  of 
a  despotic  Government  and  a  superstitious  peo- 
ple to  all  objects  of  public  convenience  and 
utility.  The  value  of  a  very  few  of  the  brass 
images  which  we  saw  yesterday,  woidd  have  been 
sufficient  to  build  a  noble  bridge  at  this  place, 
where  it  was  so  much  required;  but  the  one 
which  we  now  saw,  consisted  of  a  single  plank, 
and  was  elevated  to  the  giddy  height  of  at  least 
thirty  feet.  The  passengers,  for  safety,  took  hold 
of  each  other's  hand  as  they  passed  along  it.  Out 
of  politeness  to  us,  and  in  deference  to  the  pre- 
judice which  I  have  already  alluded  to,  that 
makes  it  a  dishonour  to  have  others  pass  over 
pur  heads,  those  who  intended  to  go  over,  halted 
until  our  boat  had  gone  through. 

After  passing  on  between  two  and  three  miles 
behind  the  palace,  we  came  to  a  spacious  temple, 
which  was  commenced  by  the  present  King  about 
two  years  before,  and  was  not  yet  finished.  This 
was  of  the  same  general  form  as  those  I  have 
already  described,  but  in  costliness  and  magnifi- 
cence far  excelled  them.  The  doors  and  window- 
shutters,  and   the  capitals   and  pedestals  of  the 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  181 

wooden  columns,  were  curiously  and  laboriously 
carved  almost  throughout,  exhibiting  figures  of 
flowers,  trees,  and  animals :  this  carved  work  was 
again  richly  gilt.  The  central  temple,  which,  in 
this  case,  was  raised  on  a  very  elevated  terrace, 
consisted  but  of  one  chamber,  or  fane,  measuring 
fifty-eight  and  a  half  English  feet  in  height, 
seventy -one  and  a  half  in  length,  with  a  breadth 
equal  to  the  height.  A  single  brass  statue  of 
Gautama  occupies  this  noble  chaniber,  for  such 
it  unquestionably  is.  The  image,  exclusive  of 
the  pedestal,  measures,  in  its  sitting  posture, 
twenty-nine  and  a  quarter  feet :  from  the  point 
of  one  knee  to  that  of  the  other  is  twenty-two 
feet  nine  inches.  This  was  an  ancient  statue^ 
lately  brought  down  the  river,  from  the  town 
of  Sokotai,  by  order  of  the  King.  The  minor 
images  in  the  gallery  of  the  quadrangular  inclo- 
sure  of  .this  temple  were  one  hundred  and  sixty 
in  number,  all  of  plaster,  and  most  of  them  in 
an  unfinished  state. 

At  the  temple  we  found  that  the  festivities 
of  the  season  Were  celebrating  with  deafening 
tumult  and  discord.  The  principal  chamber  was 
crowded  with  people,  and  a  noisy  band  of  music 
was  playing  before  the  idol.  In  the  same  situa- 
tion there  was  a  set  of  comedians,  who  excited 
the  mirth  of  the  crowd  by  their  extravagant  and 
ludicrous  buffoonery. 

The  Prah-cha-di,  or  "  tall  thin  spire,"  with  a 


182  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

broad  base,  appears  to  be  a  favourite  emblem  of 
the  Buddhist  religion.  Accordingly  we  noticed 
that  the  whole  loose  earth  of  the  area  of  the 
temple  now  visited,  was  here  and  there  raised 
into  little  temporary  conical  mounds,  on  the  top 
of  each  of  which  a  rod  was  fixed,  containing  a 
slip  of  paper,  on  which  was  written  the  name  of 
the  votary  who  had  taken  the  trouble  of  erecting 
it.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  frequently  ob- 
served floating  along  the  river  and  canals,  on  the 
stems  of  banana-trees,  numerous  little  mimic  tem- 
ples, which  contained  similar  mounds  of  sand  or 
earth  with  those  I  have  just  described. 

Close  to  this  temple  of  Gautama  our  conductors 
showed  us  a  Hindoo  place  of  worship — a  novelty 
in  this  part  of  the  world,  and  therefore  calculated 
to  excite  our  curiosity.  There  were  three  temples 
within  one  inclosure,  each  consisting  of  a  long 
brick  building,  with  an  ordinary  tiled  roof.  Ac- 
cess to  them  was  from  one  end,  while  the  altar 
and  images  were  at  the  opposite  one.  They  were 
dreary  and  comfortless-looking  places,  destitute  of 
all  ornament,  and  their  poverty  and  simplicity  af- 
forded a  remarkable  contrast  to  the  wealth  and 
magnificence  of  the  Buddhist  establishment  m 
their  neighbourhood.  There  was  no  mistaking 
the  religion  which  had  the  countenance^  and  pro- 
tection of  the  State.  One  of  the  three  buildings 
contained  fifteen  large  handsome  images,  all  in  a 
standing  posture,  of  brass,  with  their  crowns,  amu- 


AKD  COCHIN  CHINA.  183 

lets,  and  drapery  gilded*  The  most  distinguished 
was  a  figure  of  Mahadewa»  nine  feet  high.  There 
were  several  smaller  ones  of  the  same  deity,  with 
figures  of  Prawati,  Padmi,  and  Vishnu,  and  one 
statue  of  Brahma.  A  second  building  appeared 
to  be  dedicated  to  Ganesa,  whose  statue  was  the 
most  conspicuous.  Here  were  also  four  statues  of 
Mahadewa.  The  third  building  appeared  to  be 
dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  Linga,  of  which 
there  was  a  large  gilded  figure  in  the  centre  of 
the  altar,  surrounded  by  forty  or  fifty  small  brass 
images — such  as  those  of  Siwa,  Ganesa,  Naraina, 
Hanuman,  the  Bull  Nandi,  &c.  &c.  We  were 
told  that  all  these  images  had  been  brought,  at 
different  times,  from  Western  India. 

There  was  no  one  in  attendance  at  the  temples, 
but  the  priests  attached  to  it  lived  at  no  great  dis- 
tance, and  one  of  them  came  at  our  request.  He 
was  an  elderly  person,  of  slender  form,  and  still 
retained  much  of  the  peculiar  features  of  the  Hin- 
doo. He  had  a  white  scarf  over  his  shoulders, 
and,  in  opposition  to  the  cropped  heads  of  the 
Siamese,  he  wore  his  long  hair  tied  in  a  knot  be- 
hind. He  informed  us,  through  our  interpreter, 
that  he  was  a  Brahmin,  and  the  fifth  m  descent 
from  his  ancestor  who  had  first  settled  in  Siam, 
aqd  who,  according  to  his  statement,  came  from 
the  sacred  Island  of  Ramiseram,  between  Cey- 
lon and  the  Main.  He  was  gratified  at  the  slen- 
der acquaintance  which  we  displayed  respecting 


184  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

the  Hindoo  religion,  and  took  a  pleasure  in  con- 
tinuing the  conversation  with  us  on  this  subject. 

Not  far  from  this  temple  were  erected  two 
enormous  wooden -posts,  or  pillars,  joined  at  the 
top  by  a  cross-beam.  Each  of  these  pillars  was 
certainly  not  less  than  seventy  feet  high,  and 
in  size  equal  to  the  main-mast  of  a  ship  of  four 
or  five  hundred  tons.  Certain  ceremonies  of  the 
Buddhist  worship,  the  nature  of  which  I  could 
not  ascertain,  are  annually  performed  at  this  spot. 

Tlie  tide  having  retired  and  left  the  creek,  by 
which  we  had  reached  the  temples  which  we  now 
visited,  dry,  our  boats  were  previously  sent  round 
to  a  convenient  wharf,  higher  up  the  main  river, 
and  we  walked  to  where  they  were.  This  led  us 
to  a  yery  extensive  bazaar,  paved  throughout  with 
brick,  and  with  a  row  of  very  good  shops  on  each 
side,  chiefly  in  the  occupation  of  the  Chinese. 
Among  the  articles  exposed  for  sale,  were  large 
quantities  of  Chinese  crapes,  which  are  much 
worn  by  the  Siamese  women,  principally  in  the 
form  of  scarfs.  These  shops  also  contained  consi- 
derable quantities  of  Indian  printed  goodsj  and 
English  chintz  and  broadcloths. 

Quitting  the  bazaar,  we  passed  under  the  walls 
of  the  Fort  or  Palace.  This  has  no  ditch,  the  cur- 
tain no  embrasures;  and  the  bastions,  although 
having  embrasures,  are  without  cannon.  As  a 
place  of  strength  it  is  too  contemptible  to  deserve 
any  notice. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  185 

As  we  passed  along^  the  gunpowder  manu- 
factory, which  is  extensive,  and  the  public  prison, 
where  the  Burman  captives  are  confined,  were 
pointed  out  to  us.  We  could  not  ask,  however, 
to  inspect  these,  for  fear  of  exciting  suspicion. 

April  16. — We  were  now  at  perfect  liberty  to 
go  about  the  town  as  we  pleased, — a  privilege  of 
which  we  availed  ourselves,  by  making  frequent 
excursions  on  the  river.  In  one  of  these,  in  the 
course  of  this  forenoon,  I  passed  the  ruins  of 
the  old  Portuguese  fort.  These  lie  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  river.  The  dilapidated  brick  walls 
are  now  patched  up,  and  within  it  is  the  palace  of 
Krom-a-lfiang,  one  of  the  principal  ministers  of 
the  Siamese  Government,  and  a  great  favourite  of 
the  King.  Opposite  to  it  was  situated  the  fort 
occupied  by  the  French,  at  the  close  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  in  the  extraordinary  attempt 
made  by  Lotiis  XIV.  for  the  civil  and  religious 
conquest  of  Siam.  Farther  up  the  river,  on  its 
right  bank,  we  came  to  the  extensive  ruins  of 
the  palace  of  the  Chinese  King,  whose  power 
was  overthrown  by  the  father  of  the  reigning 
monarch.  Although  this  event  took  place  only 
forty  years  before,  the  ruins  might  be  supposed, 
from  their  appearance,  to  be  centuries  old. 

April  17. — The  occurrence  of  the  holidays, 
the  loved  procrastination  of  the  Siamese  in  every 
thing,  and,  I  have  no  doubt,  also  the  reluctance 
of  the  Court  to  enter  upon  the  subject,  delayed 


186  EMBASSY   TO   SIABf 

the  commencement  of  the  n^otiation  until  yes- 
terday, when  we  had  our  first  conference  with 
the  Prah-klang.  This,  as  well  as  all  the  suc- 
ceeding ones,  took  place  at  the  Minister's  house, 
and  always  between  the  hours  of  eight  and  ten 
at  night,  the  customary  time  for  transacting  all 
public  affairs  in  Siam.  The  Minister  stated  that 
the  King  perfectly  understood  the  nature  of  the 
request  made  by  the  Governor-general  of  India, 
but  he  wished  us  specifically  to  state  the  ex- 
tent of  the  demands  which  we  had  to  make. 
The  answer  to  this  was,  that  the  wishes  of  the 
Governor-general  of  India,  generally,  were  to 
see  the  imposts  upon  European  commerce  at 
Siam  lightened,  and  the  intercourse  rendered, 
in  all  respects,  so^  free  and  fair  as  to  make  it 
agreeable  to  both  parties. 

This  sentiment  was  by  no  means  conform- 
able to  the  wishes  of  the  Siamese  negotiator, 
and  he  immediately  gave  the  conversation  an- 
other direction.  He  said,  that  undoubtedly  the 
more  English  ships  that  visited  Siam  the  better; 
and  he  was  so  anxious  upon  the  subject,  that  he 
wished  for  a  specific  engagement,  that  not  less 
than  four  should  come  yearly.  I  said,  that  it 
would  be  difficult  to  specify  any  particular  num- 
ber ;  but  I  was  thoroughly  convinced  that  many 
more  than  the  number  to  which  he  alluded  would 
come,  if  the  intercourse  was  put  upon  a  fair  and 
easy  footing. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  187 

In  ju8tifieati<m  of  the  demand  now  made,  the 
Prah-klang  observed,  that  two  years  ago  the 
Siamese  had  made  a  commercial  treaty  with  the 
Portuguese,  and  reduced  the  import  duties  from 
eight  to  six  per  cent.  No  Portuguese  ships, 
however,  had  come  to  Siam  since;  and  it  was 
therefore  a  matter  of  some  scandal  to  the 
Siamese  Government,  that  it  had  made  a  treaty, 
as  it  ware,  about  nothing.  I  explained,  that  the 
Siamese  were  not  unaware  of  the  commerdal 
resources  of  the  English  nation,  and  that  there 
could  be  no  possible  risk  on  this  account. 

The  Prah-klang  now  stated  that  a  letter  would 
be  prepared,  in  reply  to  that  of  the  (Jovemor- 
general  of  India,  in  which  it  would  be  stated, 
that  the  concessions  granted  to  the  English  com- 
merce in  Siam  had  been  fully  explained  in  per- 
son to  his  agent,  and  he  trusted  this  would 
answer  every  purpose — an  observation  which 
showed  at  once  the  reluctance  which  the  Court 
felt  to  enter  into  any  specific  arrangements,  or 
fetter  itself  by  a  written  treaty.  1  answered, 
that  matters  of  this  nature,  according  to  our  cus- 
toms, would  not'  be  considered  satisfactory  unless 
committed  to  writing.  The  answer  to  this  was:— - 
**  The  (Jovemor-general,  in  his  letter  to  the  King, 
has  stated  that  you  are  his  representative,  and 
therefore  whatever  is  told  to  you  is  the  same 
thing  as  if  told  to  himself."  I,  of  course,  per- 
severed in  my  objection;  and  he  concluded  by 


188  KMBASSV   TO   SlAJl 

saying,  that  such  a  written  document  as   I  re- 
quired would  be  furnished. 

After  the  public  discussion  was  over,  the 
Minister  entered  freely  into  a  great  deal  of  pri- 
vate conversation.  The  subjects  introduced  upon 
such  occasions  had  always  some  personal  and  in- 
terested object  in  view.  He  mentioned  that  the 
Island  of  Ceylon  now  belonged  to  the  English, 
and  that  it  was  full  of  relics  of  Gautama ;  add- 
ing, that  there  was  one,  relic  in  particular  highly 
venerated  by  the  Siamese,  a  certain  elephant's 
tooth,  which  his  Majesty  the  King  of  Siam  was 
extremely  desirous  to  be  put  in  possession  of 
through  the  good  offices  of  the  Govemor-ge- 
neral.  I  replied,  that  as  the  relic  in  question 
was  also  venerated  in  Ceylon,  and  in  the  cus- 
tody of  the  Cingalese  priests,  this  would  be 
impracticable ;  as  it  was  an  invariable  rule  with 
the  British,  wherever  they  were  masters,  never 
to  violate  the  religious  feelings  of  the  native  in- 
habitants. 

The  Prah-klang  observed,  that  the  relic  in 
question  had  two  years  ago  been  shown  to 
some  Siamese  priests  by  an  English  gentleman 
at  Candy,  and  of  whose  learning,  on  subjects 
connected  with  their  own  religion,  as  well  as 
politeness,  they  spoke  in  high  terms.  This,  I 
believe,  was  the  late  Sir  John  Doyle,  at  the  time 
Commissioner  of  the  Candian  Provinces. 

The  Prah-klang,  and  those  who  sat  with  him. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINx\.  189 

perceiving  that  we  took  aii  interest  in  the  sub- 
ject of  the  Siamese  religion,  put  a  number  of 
questions  to  us  respecting  it.  He  said,  that  a 
country  called  Magada  was  the  birth-place  of 
Gautama — asked  whether  it  was  a  British  pos- 
session— ^how  far  it  was  from  Calcutta— whether 
there  were  any  worshippers  of  Gautama  in  the 
country — whether  the  present  language  of  the 
people  was  Pali,  and  whether  there  were  any 
relics  of  the  god.  He  was  also  particularly  anxi- 
ous to  ascertain  whether  the  British  Government 
would  permit  Siamese  pilgrims  to  visit  Magada. 
I  need  scarcely  add,  that  the  country  alluded  to 
is  the  British  province  of  Bahar,  and  more  espe- 
cially that  portion  of  it  called  Buddha  Gya. 
We  were  enabled  to  give  satisfactory  answers  to 
most  of  these  questions,  and  with  respect  to  the 
last,  in  particular,  I  gave  an  assurance  that  every 
facility  would  be  afforded. 

About  this  time  the  Prah-klang  sent  us  word 
that  a  dispatch-boat  was  about  to  be  sent  to 
Ligor,  from  whence  there  was  an  easy  commu- 
iiication  with  Queda  and  Penang.  We  availed 
ourselves  of  this  opportunity  to  forward  letters 
to  Bengal  and  England,  which  we  found  after- 
wards had  arrived  safely. 

^pril  18. — We  had  last  night  an  audience  of 
the  Prince  KrOm-chiat.  The  avowed  object  of 
it  was  to  renew  the  public  discussion ;  but  the 
subject  was  never  once  touched  upon,  and  was 


190  E3IBASSY   TO  SlAM 

in  all  probability  purposely  evaded.  We  had» 
however,  a  great  deal  of  desultory  conversation 
upon  a  variety  of  topics,  the  most  striking  parts 
of  which  I  shall  now  relate. 

We  reached  his  Royal  Highness's  palace  about 
half-past  eight  o'clock  at  night,  and  were  de- 
tained at  least  an  hour  in  the  anteroom  before 
we  were  introduced,  for  his  Highness  was  en- 
gaged in  his  devotions.  During  the  whole  of 
this  time,  indeed,  we  heard  the  voices  of  a  crowd 
of  Talapoins,  chanting  prayers,  or  Buddhist 
hymns,  in  a  loud,  dfawling,  and  monotonous 
tone.  When  they  had  done,  they  departed, 
without  waiting  for  the  audience,  and  passed 
through  the  anteroom  where .  we  sat,  without 
taking  the  slightest  notice  of  us  or  of  any  one 
else,  for  it  is  their  duty  to  feign  the  most  ab- 
solute indifference  towards  every  temporal  con- 
cern. 

This  was  a  jnivate  audience,  and  the  Prince 
was  surrounded  only  by  a  few  of  his  personal 
friends.  The  int^preters,  upon  this  occasion, 
were  allowed  to  enter.  The  Prince  began  by 
making  civil  inquiries  after  our  healths,  and  the 
nature  of  our  occupations  and  amusements  since 
our  arrival  in  Slam,  and  was  particularly  desir- 
ous to  have  our  opinion  of  the  temples  which 
we  had  visited,  in  comparison  with  similar  build- 
ings in  other  countries.     He  had  heard  of  our 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  191 

conversation  with  the  Prah-klang  respecting  Cey- 
Ion,  and  renewed  it.  With  the  assbtance  of 
Mr.  Finlayson^  who'  had  resided  several  years 
on  that  island,  satisfactory  answers  were  given 
to  many  of  his  uiquiries.  He  asked  if  the  whole 
island  of  Ceylon  belonged  to  the  English,  and. 
then,  whether  it  was  subject  to  the  authority 
of  the  Governor-general  of  India.  To  this  last 
question  it  was  answered,  that  Ceylon  had  a 
governor  of  its  own,  not  subject  to  the  autho* 
rity  of  the  Governor-general,  and  that  it  was 
the  only  part  of  our  Indian  dominions  so  cir« 
cumstanced.  He  observed,  that  no  doubt  the 
King  of  England  had  made  this  distinction  be- 
cause Ceylon  was  hol/y  ground !  He  asked  whe^ 
ther  the  Governor  of  Ceylon  was  equal  in  rank 
to  the  Governor-general — what  was  the  amount 
of  the  revenue  of  Ceylon,  and  whether  it  was 
remitted  to  England.  It  was  explained,  that 
the  revenue  of  Ceylon,  although  considerable, 
was  inadequate  to  the  maintenance  of  the  island, 
and  that  it  was  necessary  to  remit  large  sums 
from  England  for  this  purpose.  He  immedi- 
ately said,  '*  If  this  be  the  case,  it  can  be  of  no 
use  to  you;  and  for  what  purpose  was  it  con- 
quered and  is  it  now  retained?*'  We  endea- 
voured to  explain,  that  during  the  wars  in 
which  we  were  lately  engaged  with  our  Euro- 
pean enemies  who  occupied  the  coast  of  the  is- 


198  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

land,  they  harassed  our  commerce  from  its  pcHls, 
and  therefore,  in  self-defence,  there  was  a  neces- 
sity for  taking  possession  of  it. 

Our  power  and  our  conquests  in  the  East,  of 
whatever  nature  and  description,  never  fail  to 
excite  the  alarm  and  jealousy  of  the  nations  of 
India,  and  hence  the  origin  of  such  questions 
as  the  pi'esent.  In  several  conversations  which 
we  held  with  the  Siamese  chiefs,  they  display^ 
ed  a  degree  of  knowledge  and  acuteness  on 
the  subject  of  our  Indian  power,  which  were 
scarcely  to  be  looked  for  in  their  situation.  A 
striking  exatnple  of  this  was  afforded,  in  a  con- 
versation vi'hich  a  gentleman,  attached  to  the 
mission,  held  with  the  Prah-klang.  The  gen- 
tleman in  question  described  our  nation  as  now 
at  peace  with  all  the  world,  but,  perhaps  a  little 
indiscreetly,  dwelt  upon  the  strength  and  num- 
bers of  our  navy.  The  Siamese  chief  coolly 
observed,  "  If  you  are  at  peace  with  all  the 
world,  why  do  you  keep  up  so  great  a  navy  as 
that  which  you  now  describe  ?" 

The  Prince,  after  his  questions  respecting 
Ceylon,  turned  the  conversation  to  a  subject 
of  a  different  nature.  He  inquired  what  pro- 
fession Mr.  Finlayson  followed.  It  was  answer- 
ed  that  he  was  a  physician  and  a  naturalist. 
He  then  asked  whether  he  had  studied  medicine 
for  amusement  or  for  utility ;  how  many  diseases 
the  human  frame  was  liable  to ;  if  Mr.  Finlay- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  193 

son  knew  all  their  names,  and  could  cure  them 
all ;  how  many  races  of  men  there  existed  in  the 
world;  with  a  number  of  questions  of  the  same 
nature.  He  said  that  he  had  heard  that  the 
English  were  acquainted  with  an  antidote  against 
the  smallpox.  In  answer  to  this,  we  took  con«* 
siderable  pains  in  explaining  the  discovery  of 
the  cow-pox  and  its  value.  His  Highness 
wished  to  know  whether  the  Governor-general 
of  India  would,  if  requested,  send  a  skilful  per-^ 
son  to  Siam,  to  instruct  the  Siamese  in  the  use 
of  this  antidote.  . 

During  this  conversation,  the  behaviour  of  the 
Prince  to  those  about  him  was  affable,  and  even 
familiar.  Among  them  were  several  Shias,  or 
Mohammedans  of  thc^  sect  of  Ali,  whom  he 
condescended  to  rally,  by  asking  us  whether,  in 
any  part  of  Hindustan,  there  were  practised 
such  fantastic  and  extravagant  ceremonies  as 
those  observed  by  the  Mohammedans  residing 
in  Siam  during  the  festival  of  the  Mohorrum. 
The  impression  which  his  conversation  through- 
out the  night  made  upon  us  yas  favourable^ 
and  he  seemed  certainly  to  maintain  the  cha« 
racter  assigned  to  him  in  public  estimation,  of 
being  the  most  intelligent  of  all  the  princes 
and  chiefs  of  the  Siamese  Court.  The  Portu-^ 
guese  Consul  afterwards  told  me  an  anecdote 
respecting  him,  which  showed  that  he  was  not 
insensible   to  deeds  of  high   renown,  or   unacr 

VOL.  I.  Q 


194  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

quainted  with  the  great  events  which  had  re- 
cently passed  in  Europe.  Mr.  De  Silvein» 
Stated  that  the  Prince  had  frequently  ex- 
pressed to  him  his  admiration  of  the  great 
achievements  of  the  Emperor  Napoleon;  and 
that  he  had  at  last  offered  him  a  handsome 
sum  of  money,  if  he  would  translate  from  the 
French  into  the  Portuguese  language  a  hist<M-y 
of  his  wars,  for  the  purpose  of  being  rendered 
into  Siamese  through  the  Christian  interpreters. 
Our  audience  lasted  until  near  twelve  o'clock 
at  night. 

jipril  20. — We  had  heard  much  of  the  sin- 
gular ceremonies  practised  at  the  funeral  of  a 
Siamese,  and  yesterday  a  party  of  us  passed  the 
principal  portion  of  th^  forenoon  in  witnessing 
the  forms  of  one.  The  bodies  of  Siamese  of  all 
ranks  are  with,  few  exceptions  burned  upon  a 
funeral  pile,  and  the  spot  chosen  for  this  pur- 
pose is  always  the  court  of  one  of  the  temples. 
Some  of  the  temples  are  more  frequented  with 
this  view  than  others ;  and  we  were  assured  lliat 
if  we  went  to  the  temple  called  Tan-le-na,  on 
ihe  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  some  way  down 
the  stream,  we  might  be  quite  certain  of  sering 
funeral  rites  performed  between  the  hours  of 
twelve  and  three.  We  accordingly  proceeded 
thither  yesterday,  and  airived  on  the  spot  at 
about  twelve  Q'dock.  The  ceremonies  of  a  fu- 
neral were  just  about  to  ocxnmaice.    The  body. 


ANB  COCHIN   CHINA.  195 

in  a  coffin  which  rested  upon  a  bier,  was  lying 
under  some  fig-trees,  of  which  there  were  num-^ 
bers  in  the  court  or  gardens  surrounding  the 
temple.  These  are  highly  venerated  by  the  Sia- 
mese, who  hold  it  to  be  as  great  a  sacrilege  to 
lop  off  one  of  their  branches,  as  to  slay  one  of 
the  nobler  animals,  also  a  high  offence  against 
religion.  Yet  in  Siam  the  sacred  fig  is  not  a 
handsome^  spreading,  or  shady  tree,  "  the  bene- 
fit of  it,"  as  Knox  says  of  the  same  tree  in 
Ceylon,  "  consisting  principally  in  the  holiness 
of  it." 

The  coffin  and  bier  together  were  at  least  seven 
feet  high,  and,  instead  of  having  a  dismal  funereal 
look,  had  a  gay  and  lightsome  air.  The  bier 
was  covered  ^ith  white  cloth,  and  the  coffin  itself 
with  a  gold  tissue  on  a  red  ground,  while  its  lid 
was  decorated  with  tinsel  ornaments.  Over  the 
coffin  there  was  a  canopy  of  white  cloth,  oma* 
mented  all  round  with  festoons  of  fresh  je^amine 
flowers.  Both  bief  and  coffin,  besides  these  oma« 
ments,  were  decorated  with  cornices  of  ftesh 
plantain  stem  fancifully  carved. 

The  different  parts  of  the  ceremony  were  ushef- 
ed  in  by  the  discordant  music  of  a  brasis  flageolet^ 
a  gong,  and  two  drums.  The  first  part  of  the 
ceremony  in  order  was  the  reading  of  prayers 
This  was  done  by  a  priest  of  twenty-three  or 
twenty-four  years. of  age^  from  a  pulpit  Und^r  a 
wooden  shed  in  the  court-yard.     The  prayers 

o  2 


196  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

were  in  the  Bali  language,  and  read  from  slips  of 
palm-leaf.  A  small  circle  of  persons,  chiefly  fe- 
males, sat  on  a  platform  underneath  the  pulpit, 
with  a  taper  before  each.  They  were  neither 
serious  nor  attentive,  and  most  probably  did  not 
understand  one  word  of  what  was  said.  The 
prayers  lasted  about  half  an  hour. 

While  this  part  of  the  ceremony  was  going 
forward,  the  court  of  the  temple  was  crowded 
with  Talapoins  of  all  ages,  who,  however,  paid  no 
attention  to  the  solemnities  which  were  passing 
within  a  few  yards  of  them.  On  the  contrary, 
they  escaped  from  them,  and  flocked  round  oiu* 
party,  exhibiting  a  degree  of  curiosity,  familiarity, 
and  confidence  beyond  any  thing  we  had  yet 
witnessed,  or  rather  any  thing  we  had  yet  been 
subjected  to.  There  was,  however,  no  absolute 
rudeness,  or,  at  least,  no  apparent  intention  of 
giving  <^ence. 

After  the  ceremony  of  reading  prayers,  the 
priests  were  called  upon  to  act  their  part  To  the 
head  of  the  coffin  there  was  attached  a  piece  of 
white  cloth,  at  least  twenty  feet  long,  of  which 
they  laid  hold,  ranging  themselves  on  each  side. 
In  this  situation  they  muttered  three  short  pray- 
ers. This  being  over,  the  coffin  and  bier  were 
dismantled,  and  the  doth  which  covered  them  dis- 
tributed as  presents  among  the  Talapoins. 

The  next  part  of  the  ceremony  was  that  of 
washing  the  body.    This  was  performed  by  one 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  197 

of  the  secular  attendants  of  the  temple,  whose 
fee  for  each  funeral  is  one  tical.  Upon  the  pre^ 
Mnt  occasion  he  certainly  earned  it  well,  for  the 
hody  had  heen  kept  for  four  days,  with  the  ther- 
mometer often  above  ninety-six,  and  was  therefore 
in  a  most  offensive  state. 

The  deceased  had  been  a  man  about  sixty 
years  of  age,  and  considerably  above  the  lowest 
rank  in  life.  His  sons,  daughters,  and  relatives, 
attended  the  funeral,  and  indeed  took  an  active 
share  in  the  performance  of  the  different  rites. 
Their  demeanour  was  grave  and  decent ;  but  no 
symptom  of  grief  escaped  from  any  of  them,  with 
the  exception  of  one  individual,  who  might  well 
be  called  the  chief  mourner*  This  was  a  young 
woman,  about  eighteen  or  twenty  years  of  age, 
and,  as  we  were  told,  the  favourite  daughter  of 
the  deceased.  She  was  in  mourning, — ^that  is,  had 
her  head  shaved,  and  was  dressed  iru  white.  She 
sat  down  before  the  bier,  and,  at  sight  of  the 
hody,  began  weeping  and  sobbing  bitterly,  and 
appeared  to  be  in  real  distress. 

The  bier,  with  a  layer  of  wet  earth  laid  upon 
it,  upon  which  was  placed  a  heap  of  dried  fuel, 
constituted  the  funeral  pile.  This  circumstance 
distinguished  the  funeral  from  a  more  ordinary 
one;  for  on  common  occasions  the  bodies  are 
simply  burned  upon  a  low  earthen  terrace,  which 
was  dose  at  hand,  and  on  which  were  still  lying 
several  heaps  of  vulgar  and  neglected  ashes* 


}98  EMBASSY  TO   6IAM 

The  pile  being  thus  prepared,  the  body  was 
replaced  in  the  coffin,  and  carried  three  sucoessive 
times  round  it,  borne  by  the  sons  and  sons-in- 
law  of  the  deceased,  and  followed  by  the  £a^ 
vourite  daughter*  uttering  loud  lamaitations.  It 
was  then  deposited  upon  the  pile.  A  number  ot 
wax  tapers  and  little  incense  rods  were  now  dis- 
tributed to  the  by-stiuiders.  A  priest,  ejaculating 
a  prayer,  set  the  first  fire  to  the  pile,  and  was  fol- 
lowed by  the  rest,  and  among  others,  by  our- 
selves, for  we  had  been  offered  tapers,  and  par- 
ticularly requested  to  join  in  the  ceremony.  As 
soon  as  the  first  flame  had  ascended,  the  daughter 
began  to  distribute  small  pieces  of  money  to  scmie 
beggars  who  were  present,  and  who  consisted 
chiefly  of  elderly  women,  dressed  in  white,  who 
reside  in  the  temple,  and  who  perform  menial 
services  for  the  priests.  The  male  relations  of 
the  deceased  at  the  same  time  went  through  a 
most  fantastic  ceremony.  They  tied  their  clothes 
in  a  bundle,  and  standing  on  each  side  of  the 
pile  tossed  them  over  it  six  successive  times, 
taking  great  care  not  to  allow  them  to  fall  to 
the  ground.  The  object  of  this  formality  we 
could  not  learn,  nor  was  it,  probably,  capable 
of  any  rational  explanation.  This  ended  the 
ceremony — ^the  relations,  however,  continuing  by 
the  pile  until  the  body  was  consumed. 

April  82, — Continuing  our  excursions  through 
the  town  and, its  vicinity,  we  made  a  very  long 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  199 

one  yesterday,  which  occupied  us  six  hours. 
After  ascending  the  river,  for  a  short  way,  we 
entered  a  large  branch  called  Ban-kok  Yai,  nearly 
opposite  to  the  palace,  and  on  the  right  bank. 
We  proceeded  upon  this  in  a  westerly  course,  for 
about  two  miles,  and  then  entered  a  smaller  rami- 
fication,  which  connects  the  three  great  branches 
of  the  Me-nam  with  each  other.  This  last, 
which  runs  in  a  southerly  direction,  is  known 
by  the  name  of  Bang  Luang.  On  the  principal 
branch  there  was  the  appearance  of  a  brisk  inter- 
nal trade,  for  this  is  the  principal  channel  by 
which  salt,  teak,  and  Sapan-wood  are  brought  to 
the  capital. 

The  first  singular  object  that  struck  us  in  as- 
cending the  principal  branch,  was  a  pair  of  neat 
wooden  pillars  painted  white,  one  being  on  each 
side  of  the  stream.  Upon  arriving  near  these, 
our  conductor,  who  was  a  Mohammedan,  ob- 
served. That  beyond  these  posts  one  might  "  sin" 
without  danger,  but  that  all  within  them  was 
sacred.  He  meant  by  this  that  the  space  within 
the  pillars  in  question,  was  considered  as  an  asy- 
lum for  the  lower  animals,  but  that  beyond  them 
they  might  be  slain  with  impunity.  In  truth,  it 
is  not  only  forbidden  to  kill  the  larger  animals 
within  a  certain  distance  of  the  King's  palace, 
but  it  is  even  forbidden  to  fish  in  the  river,  with- 
in  the  boundaries  which  are  marked  by  the  pillars 
which  we  now  saw. 


200  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

.  We  proceeded  in  all  about  five  miles,  having 
on  each  side  of  us  a  low  rich  country,  universally 
cultivated,  and  thickly  inhabited.  In  our  route, 
we  counted  no  less  than  twenty-two  temples; 
some  very  large,  and  all  of  considerable  size. 
Our  visit  terminated  at  that  which  was  con- 
structing by  the  Prince  Krom-chiat,  and  which 
he  had  called  "  Wat-chan-tong,"  or,  "  the  tem- 
ple of  the  golden  sandal  tree."  This,  for  style 
and  neatness,  far  exceeded  the  temples  which  we 
had  before  visited.  It  was  still  in  an  unfinished 
state,  thus  exhibiting  to  us,  in  an  interesting  man- 
ner, the  progress  of  the  different  parts  of  the 
work.  The  casting  of  the  principal  image  was 
the  first  thing  that  attracted  our  notice.  The 
different  portions  of  it  were  lying  about  under 
an  extensive  shed,  preparatory  to  being  joined. 
The  metal  of  which  it  was  composed,  was  an 
alloy  of  tin,  zinc,  and  copper,  without  much 
regard  to  proportions,  which,  indeed,  would  have 
been  a  matter  of  some  difficulty ;  for  we  were 
informed,  that  when  an  image  of  this  descrip- 
tion is  founding,  it  is  the  practice  of  the  pious 
to  contribute  to  it,  and  that  no  contribution, 
however  trifling  or  incongruous,  is  rejected.  The 
metal  was,  of  course,  a  mere  case  about  two  inches 
in  thickness.  The  casts,  as  they  came  from  the 
moulds,  were  very  imperfect,  and  there  was  a 
great  deal  of  patchwork,  occasioned  by  filling  up 
crevices.     These  defects  would  be  of  little  con- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  201 

sequence  when  the  work  was  completed,  as  the 
whole  image  would  be  covered  over,  as  in  other 
cases,  with  a  rich  coat  of  gilding.  The  image 
was  to  be  a  sitting  one,  and  from  one  knee  to 
the  other  measured  ten  feet,  which  would  have 
made  it  equal  in  size  to  a  standing  figure  of 
about  twenty-two  feet» 

The  plan  of  the  temple  was  generally  similar 
to  that  of  others,  and  consisted  of  a  quadran- 
gular enclosure.  The  central  temple  which  was 
intended  for  the  reception  of  the  principal  image, 
composed  but  a  single  apartment,  and  f(H*med  a 
noble  and  spacious  room.  The  pedestal  for  the 
image  was  already  constructed,  and  was  extremely 
handsome,  being  cased  all  over  with  Chinese 
marble,  upon  which  was  carved  in  relief  devices 
of  plants  and  animals.  The  roof  of  the  temple 
had  a  singular,  but  not  unhandsome  appearance^ 
being  covered  with  green  tiles,  which  colour  we 
were  told  was  communicated  to  them  by  a  kind 
of  varnish.  The  usual  area,  or  court  of  the  tem- 
ple, in  this  case  was  a  neat  garden,  planted  with 
ornamental  and  fruit-trees.  The  dwellings  of 
the  priests  were  altogether  in  a  new  style — ^for, 
instead  of  the  wooden  cells  which  accommodated 
the  Talapoins  at  other  temples,  these  were  con- 
structed of  brick  and  mortar,  and  neatly  tiled 
and  whitewashed.  Their  individual  appearance 
pat  us,  in  fact,  in  mind  of  neat  English  cot- 
tages, in  ^ite  of  the  situation  and  the  opposite 


202  EMBASSY  TO   SI  AM 

character  of  their  tenants.  They  amounted  to 
fifty  in  number,  and  were  confined  to  one  side  of 
the  square.  At  each  end  of  the  row  there  was 
a  building  mudi  more  spacious  than  the  rest 
These  were  the  houses  of  the  prior  and  abbot; 
for  in  a  monastery  of  Talapoins  there  are  dig- 
nities corresponding  to  these  titles.  This  temple, 
I  have  no  doubt,  owed  its  existence  and  superior 
splendour  to  the  wealth  acquired  by  the  Prince 
in  his  superintendance  of  the  extensive  foreign 
trade,  which  Siam  has  lately  been  conducting. 
We  went  into  the  prior's  house  by  invitation. 
He  received  us  with  politeness,  but  the  pride 
of  his  order  would  not  allow  him  to  pay  us 
much  personal  attention.  He  however  directed 
a  dessert  of  fruits  to  be  placed  before  us.  Here 
we  saw  a  number  of  priests  assembled,  and  en- 
gaged in  their  studies.  For  this  purpose  they 
were  seated  upon  the  ground,  each  with  his 
book  before  him  placed  on  a  neat  reading-desk. 
Every  thing  exhibited  an  appearance  of  clean- 
liness, comfort,  and  abundance.  We  were  permit- 
ted to  go  over  the  different  apartments  with- 
out any  difficulty.  Some  portion  of  the  orna- 
ments of  that  of  the  prior  himself,  struck  us  as 
odd,  if  not  out  of  place.  These  were  stiffs  Chinese 
copies  of  English  pictures  in  gilt  frames.  One, 
for  example,  exhibited  a  fox  chase,  another  the 
charms  of  a  country  life,  and  the  third  and  fourth 
were   portraits   of  celebrated  English   beauties. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  80S 

Many  of  these  are  copies  of  our  best  prints, 
and  the  Chinese,  by  extraordinary  cheapness  of 
price,  have  contrived  to  disseminate  them  widely. 
In  Siam  they  are  very  frequent,  and  I  have 
no  doubt  a  traveller  would  also  discover  them 
in  the  heart  of  Kamboja,  Lao,  or  Chinese  Tar- 
tary.  We  may  see  from  this  example,  that  in 
the  intercourse  of  nations,  it  is  impossible  to 
discover  beforehand,  whether  or  not  the  pro- 
ductions of  one  be  suited  to  the  taste  of  the 
other,  until  the  price  be  rendered  low  enough 
to  meet  the  consumer's  means  of  purchasing. 

Sitting  amongst  the  priests,  we  observed  a  man 
of  intelligent  appearance,  and  about  forty  years 
of  age,  in  a  secular  habit.  Our  conductor  in- 
formed us  that  he  was  a  person  of  great  learn- 
ing, and  that  in  his  younger  days  he  had  been 
a  priest ;  but  falling  desperately  in  love  with  a 
young  woman  in  the  neighbourhood,  he  had 
quitted  holy  orders  to  marry  her ;  and  although 
courted  for  his  acquirements,  and  requested  to 
resume  the  monastic  life,  he  had  ever  since  re* 
fused  to  quit  his  family.  He  was  now  employed 
in  instructing  some  of  the  young  priests.  He 
entered  freely  into  conversation  with  us,  readily 
answered  such  questions  as  we  put  to  him,  and 
supplied  us,  on,  the  spot,  with  a  short  vocabulary 
of  the  Bali  language.  With  all  his  frankness^ 
however,  he  was  extremely  desirous  to  be  as- 
sured   that  we  had  a  sufficient  respect  for  his 


204  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

religion,  and  not  satisfied  with  our  assertions  to 
this  effect,  he  would  have  us  attest  our  sincerity 
by  making  an  obeisance  to  an  image  of  Buddha, 
which  was  in  the  apartment  where  we  were 
sitting. 

On  our  return  home,  we  visited  a  temple,  which 
contained  a  relic  of  Gktutama.    This  was  the  im- 
pression of  a  foot,  or  as  such  relics  are  called  by 
the  Sianoese,  a  Prah-bat,  or  ''holy  foot''    This  was 
deposited  in  a  small  temple  on  the   top  of  an 
artificial  mount,  which  lay  behind  an  ordinary 
Buddhist  temple.    The  mount  was  of  masonry, 
and  of  a  quadrangular  form.     The  extent  of  each 
face  was  about  twenty-seven  paces,  and  the  hei^t 
of  the  whole  about  twenty-two,  exclusive  of  the 
little  temple  which  contained  the  relic.    Under- 
neath it  were  many  dark  and  winding  passages, 
in  imitation  of  caverns;    for  the  object  of  this 
monument  was  to  represent  one  of  those  moun- 
tains to  which  Gautama  in  his  life-time  had  re- 
tired as  an  ascetic.    The  doors  of  the  little  temple 
were  shut,  and  owing  to  the  accidental  absence  of 
the  keeper,  but  not  to  any  reluctance  to  exhibit 
it,  we  had  no  opportunity  of  examining  the  relic. 
April  as. — We  had  a  conference  with  the  mi- 
nister last  night,  which  lasted  from  nine  to  twelve 
o'clock.     On  this  occasion,  I  explained  at  length 
the  nature  of  the  commercial  arrangements  which 
we  were  anxious  to  make,  and  for  this  purpose 
took  with  me  notes  for  a  treaty,  which  provided 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA,  205 

generally  for  a  free  and  fair  trade ;  for  the  deter- 
mination of  the  export  and  import  duties,  and  of 
all  fees  and  charges ;  providing  at  the  same  time 
security  for  the  persons  and  properties  of  British 
subjects  resorting  to  Siam.  The  Portuguese  hav- 
ing obtained  permission  for  the  residence -of  a 
commercial  agent,  and  a  promise  to  a  similar  effect 
having,  as  was  understood,  been  made  to  the 
Americans,  we  hinted  at  a  like  arrangement  for 
the  British  Government.  In  general,  no  negative 
was  put  upon  these  various  requisitions  at  the 
time,  with  the  exception  of  that  which  provided 
security  for  the  person  and  properties  of  British 
subjects.  In  answer  to  this  proposition,  the  Prah* 
klang  distinctly  stated,  that  the  King  of  Siam 
would  make  no  alteration  in  the  established  laws 
of  the  country  in  favour  of  strangers.  This  in- 
deed  was  a  point  which  could  not  be  insisted 
upon.  If  the  subjects  of  a  free  and  civilized 
government  resort  to  a  barbarous  and  despotic 
country,  there  is  no  remedy  but  submission  to 
its  laws,  however  absurd  or  arbitrary,  so  impos- 
sible is  it  in  all  respects  to  reconcile  the  fair  and 
equal  commerce  of  nations  in  opposite  states  of 
civilization  with  the  freedom  of  conduct  which 
must  be  supposed  vested  in  every  independent 
government,  whatever  its  nature.  It  could  scarce- 
ly be  hoped,  although  it  has  sometimes  happened, 
that  an  arbitrary  government  should  concede  to 
strangers  a  degree  of  liberty  and  security  which 


S06  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

it  denied  to  its  own  subjects.  Before  parting,  it 
was  agreed  upon  that  the  conference  should  be 
renewed  on  the  following  night. 

April  24. — I  had  a  sudden  and  unexpected  visit 
this  morning  from  the  Prah-klang,  who  came,  as 
upon  the  former  occasion,  by  scrambling  over  the 
gable-end  of  the  house  into  the  corridor.  I 
thought  this  visit  was  intended  to  prevent  or 
anticipate  the  conference  which  w^  agreed  upon 
in  the  evening,  but  he  came  with  very  different 
views.  He  told  us  that  he  had  come  for  the  pur- 
pose of  requesting  assistance  in  recovering  two 
pairs  of  ordinary  glass  lamps,  which  he  allied 
had  been  offered  to  the  King  by  an  individual 
bekmging  to  the  mission-ship,  but  afterwards  sold 
to  some  one  else.  He  said  that  his  Majesty  had 
set  his  heart  on  the  lamps,  that  he  was  highly  in- 
dignant at  any  one  else  presuming  to  purchase 
them,  and  that  he  had  threatened  half  his  cour- 
tiers with  corporal  punishment  on  account  of  his 
disappointment.  I  promised  to  inquire  into  the 
transaction,  but  could  not  help  informing  him 
that  amongst  us,  the  person  who  gave  the  best 
price  for  a  commodity  was  generally  considered 
as  establishing  the  first  claim  to  it. 

In  the  evening  I  had  an  apology  from  the 
minister,  and  a  request  that  the  conference  might 
be  put  off  to  another  time.  The  excuse  made  was 
a  singular  one,  that  his  fatber-in-laW,  or  at  least, 
one  of  the  numerous  persons  who  stood  in  tliat 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  207 

relation  to  him,  had  broken  a  favourite  mirror,  at 
which  the  minister  was  in  such  distress  that  he 
was  utterly  incapable  of  attending  to  public  busi- 
ness. 

April  26. — We  were  awakened  in  the  night  by 
the  cries  of  some  one  suffering  corporal  punish- 
ment in  the  court-yard  of  the  Prah-klang's  house, 
immediately  under  our  windows,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing we  heard  that  this  was  the  Christian  interpret 
ter,  attached  to  the  mission-ship.  He  had  failed 
to  report  the  sale  of  the  four  lamps,  of  which  the 
King  had  become  so  unaccountably  enamoured, 
and  this  was  the  offence  for  which  he  had  received 
castigation.  He  called  upon  us  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  and  when  we  expressed  our  sympathy 
for  the  unmerited  cha^isement  he  had  received, 
he  only  answered,  that  "  he  and  the  other  Chris* 
tians  had  nothing  but  patience  to  support  them 
in  the  country  where  their  lot  had  been  cast." 
These  men  are,  notwithstanding,  the  descendants 
of  the  Portuguese  conquerors  of  India,  and»  pos^. 
sibly,  some  of  them  may  have  in  their  veins  the 
blood  of  a  Di  Gama,  or  an  Albuquerque;  men 
whose  very  names  made  the  monarchs  of  the  East 
tremble. 

April  87. — This  was  a  day  of  some  celebrity 
in  the  Siamese  calendar,  being  that  on  which  the 
kings  of  Siam,  in  former  times,  were  wont  to  hold 
the  plough,  like  the  Emperors  of  China,  either  as 
a  religious  ceremony,  or  as  an  example  of  agricul- 


208  EMBAS&Y   TO   SIAM 

tural  industry  to  their  subjects.  This  rite  lias 
long  fallen  into  disuse,  and  given  place  to  one 
which,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  is  of  less  dignity. 
The  ceremony  took  place  about  two  miles  from 
Bang-kok,  and,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  we  were  not 
apprised  of  it  in  time  enough  to  be  present.  A 
Siamese,  however,  who  had  often  witnessed  it, 
gave  me  the  following  description : — ^A  person  is 
chosen,  for  this  occasion,  to  represent  the  King. 
This  monarch  of  a  day  is  known  by  the  name 
of  Piya-Pun-li-teb,  or  King  of  the  Husbandm^i. 
He  stands  in  the  midst  of  a  rice-field,  on  one 
foot  only,  it  being  incumbent  on  him  to  con- 
tinue in  this  uneasy  attitude  during  the  time 
that  a  common  peasant  takes  in  ploughing  once 
round  him  in  a  circle.  Dropping  the  other  foot, 
until  the  circle  is  completed,  is  looked  upon  as  a 
most  unlucky  omen ;  and  the  penalty  to  *'  the 
King  of  the  Husbandmen"  is  said  to  be  not 
only  the  loss  of  his  ephemeral  dignity,  but  also 
of  his  permanent  rank,  whatever  that  may  be, 
with  what  is  more  serious — ^the  confiscation  of 
his  property.  The  nominal  authority  of  this 
person  lasts  from  morning  to  night.  During 
the  whole  of  this  day  the  shops  are  shut;  no- 
thing is  allowed  to  be  bought  or  sold ;  and  wbat^ 
ever  is  disposed  of,  in  contravention  of  this  inter- 
dict, is  forfeited,  and  becomes  the  perquisite  of 
the  King  of  the  Husbandmen. 

Another  ceremony,  we  were  told,  accompanies 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  S09 

the  ploughing.  Specimens  of  all  the  principal 
fruits  of  the  earth  are  collected  together  in  a 
field,  and  an  ox  is  turned  loose  amongst  them» 
and  the  particular  product  which  he  selects  to 
feed  upon,  is,  on  the  authority  of  this  experi- 
ment, to  be  considered  as  the  scarcest  fruit  of 
the  ensuing  season,  and  therefore  entitled  to  the 
especial  care  of  the  husbandman. 

The  circumstance  which  led  to  the  punish- 
ment of  the  Christian  intei^reter  was  fully  ex- 
plained to  us  this  mornmg,  and  was  such  as  to 
exhibit  the  Siamese  Monarch  and  his  Court  in 
a  very  ludicrous  if  not  disgusting  light.  Suri- 
wung-kosa,  the  Prah-klang,  had  shown  his  Ma- 
jesty nine  pairs  of  small  globe  lamps  which  were 
offered  for  sale,  and  of  which  his  Majesty  ap- 
proved; but  it  so  happened,  that  before  the  bar- 
gain  was  finally  concluded,  two  pairs  had  been 
disposed  of  to  some  other  person.  The  King 
missed  the  lamps,  flew  into  an  ungovernable  pas- 
uon  at  his  disappointment,  and  threatened  the 
Ministers  all  round  with  the  bastinado  if  they 
were  not  produced.  Our  acquaintance,  the  Frah- 
klang,  was  to  have  had  for  his  share  a  hundred 
blows;  and  the  King  informed  him,  in  good 
earnest,  that  his  being  a  relation  (which  he  was) 
should  not  screen  him.  In  fact,  we  were  told, 
that  he  finally  escaped  only  by  keeping  out  of 
the  way  until  the  royal  anger  had  abated.  The 
Ministers  thought  proper  to  consider  Mr.  Silveira, 

VOL.    I.  p 


810  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

the  Portuguese  Consul,  who  was  under  pecuniary 
obligations  to  the  Court,  as  implicated  in  the 
transaction.  He  was  aoooordingly  sent  for,  put 
under  an  arrest,  and  treated  with  indignity ;  one 
of  the  Ministers  informing  him  that  he  was  liable 
to  corporal  punishment.  All  Bang-kok  was  in 
a  state  of  agitation  for  two  days  respecting  these 
lamps,  the  intrinsic  value  of  which  might  be  about 
four  pounds  sterling!  They  were  at  last  disco- 
vered in  the  possession  of  an  old  woman,  who 
hastened  to  the  Palace  and  offered  them  as  a 
present,  pretending  that  it  was  with  this  inten- 
tion she  had  purchased  them. 

The  monarch,  who  was  liable  to  these  gusts 
of  anger,  was  the  unbounded  lord  of  the  lives 
end  fortunes  of  perhaps  not  less  than  five  mil* 
lions  of  people.  It  is  but  justice  to-  him,  how- 
ever, to  observe,  that  the  country  prospered  un* 
der  his  administration — that  he  was  rarely  guilty 
of  acts  of  atrocity,  and  that  upon  the  whole  he 
was  admitted  to  be  one  of  the  mildest  soverdgns 
that  had  ruled  Siam  for  at  least  a  century  and 
a  half. 

April  29. — At  rather  an  unseasonable  hour 
last  night,  a  messenger  came  to  us  from  the 
King.  He  had  with  him  a  puppet  near  three 
feet  high,  not  ill  executed,  and  purporting  to 
represent  an  European.  The  object  of  the  mes- 
sage was  the  singular  request,  that  any  of  us 
who  were  skilled  in  such   matters,  would  give 


AND   COCHIN    CHINA.  £11 

the  necessary  directkMis  for  having  the  figure 
attired^  so  as  to  represent  the  late  Emperor  Na- 
poleon ;  or  if  this  was  a  matter  of  difficulty^ 
that  the  puppet  might  be  put  into  the  costume 
of  a  young  Englishman,  ^our  tailon  and  two 
sho^nakers  accordingly  made  their  appeai;ai}ce 
this  morning,  with  a  supply  <^  cloth,  velvet* 
gold  lace,  and  leather;  and  as  an  Indian  tailor 
was  one  of  our  attendants,  he  received  directions 
for  carrying  his  Majesty's  wishes  into  efiect. 
The  King  of  Siam.  has  a  taste  for  such  amuse- 
ments as  these,  and  is  besides  a  very  pious  Prince, 
Every  day  he  is  said  to  gild  with  his  own  hands 
a  small  image  of  Gautama,  which  he  presents  as 
an  offering  to  some  temple,  thus  at  once  com- 
bining the  indulgence  of  a  favourite  passion  with 
a  religious  duty.  In  every  matter  of  moment 
he  is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  his  ministers,  but 
upon  certain  small  occasions,  he  now  and  then, 
and  somewhat  outrageously  too,  asserts  his  pre- 
rogative, if  not  his  dignity ;  as,  for  example,  in 
such  an  affair  as  that  of  the  four  glass  lamps. 

May  1. — A  Portuguese  brig  arrived  to-day 
from  Macao,  and  brought  an  account  of  the 
favourable  termination  of  the  quarrel  which  we 
had  with  the  Chinese  authorities  at  Canton,  in 
consequence  of  the  affair  of  the  Topaze  frigate. 
This  transaction  was  already  well  known  in  Siam, 
and  the  Prah-klang  had  put  several  questions  re- 
specting it  to  some  of  our  gentlemen. 

p  2 


£12  EMBASSY  TO   8IAM 

May  2. — ^We  received  to-day  accounts  of  the 
arrival  of  the  English  brig  Phoenix,  from  Cal- 
cutta. This  vessel  brought  us  public  and  private 
letters,  and  files  of  English  and  Indian  news- 
papers. We  felt  secure  from  all  violence,  and 
therefore  could  read  with  indifference,  or  with 
a  smile,  the  assurance  which  one  of  the  Calcutta 
editors  gave  his  readers,  on  the  authority  **  of 
authentic  letters  kindly  handed  to  him,*'  that 
"  the  King  of  Siam  was  to  seize  our  persons, 
until  the  Raja  of  Queda,  who  had  taken  refuge 
at  Penang,  was  delivered  up  to  him.*' 


A  PRAHCHini.  OR  SACRED  RPIRE. 


8PIRB  OP  THK  TEHPLB  CALLED  WATA-NAOA. 


AMD  COCBIM  CHINA.  219 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Nc^ociatiQn  pat  off^  owing  to  his  Majesty's  changing  his  Re-^ 
sidence. — ^Acquaintance  made  with  a  Siamese  Priest.^-Ar- 
riral  of  a  Ship  bdonging  to  the  King  of  Siam  from  Ben- 
gal*— Anecdote  illustrative  of  the  Character  of  the  Siamese 
Government. — Visit  to  a  singular  Temple. — Renewal  of  the 
Negodation. — Arrival  of  Ambassadors  from  Cochin  China, 
and  their  Reception. — Second  Visit  to  the  Siamese  Priest, 
and  Conversation. — Practice  of  kidnapping  Strangers^  and 
selling  them  in  Siam  for  Slaves. — Death  of  a  Princess  from 
Cholera  Morbus. — Visit  from  some  Brahmins,  and  an  account 
of  them. — Account  of  a  Siamese  Ceremony. — A  Conference 
with  the  Prah-klang,  or  Foreign  Minister. — Siamese  Letter- 
writing. — Visit  from  a  Chief  of  Lao. — Setting  in  of  the 
South- West  Monsoon.— Siamese  Reptiles.— Arrival  of  an 
American  Ship. — Another  Conference. — Cochin  Chinese  Am- 
bassadors visit  the  Prah-klang. — Visit  to  the  Catholic  Bishop 
of  Siam>  and  Conversation  with  him. — Another  Conference 
with  the  Minister. — Pinal  Conference  with  the  Prah-klang. — 
Answer  to  the  Letter  of  the  Governor-general,  and  Commer^ 
cial  Engagements. 

May  5. — The  negociation  was  now  again  in- 
terrupted, and  the  important  cause  alleged  was 
the  King's  changing  his  residence  from  one  por- 
tion of  the  palace  to  another,  a  matter  which  was 


214  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

said  to  give  occupation  day  and  night  to  all  his 
ministers.  The  benediction  of  the  Talapoins  was 
necessary  to  the  King's  new  residence,  and  a  few 
days  ago  we  were  told  that  several  thousands  were 
assembled  to  bestow  it,  who,  in  return  for  prayers, 
were  well  fed,  and  presented  with  new  garments. 
The  right  bank  of  the  Menam,  where  our 
residence  was,  had  only  a  narrow  strip  of  dwellings 
along  the  river-side.  Behind  these,  the  country, 
which  is  extremely  fertile,  is  intersected  with 
narrow  and  inconvenient  foot-paths,  and  frequent 
canals,  over  which  there  are  no  other  bridges  than 
single  narrow  planks  or  trunks  of  trees.  There 
is  no  cultivation  of  grain  to  be  seen  any  where 
near  Bang-kok,  but  the  whole  of  the  land  in 
question  is  occupied  by  fine  orchards — ^for  the 
culture  of  fruit-trees  seems  to  be  the  most  advan- 
tageous that  can  be  followed  so  near  the  capital. 
Among  these  orchards  here  and  there  occur  a 
temple.  For  want  of  a  more  convenient  prome- 
nade, several  of  our  party  were  in  the  habit  of 
strolling  over  this  quarter  in  the  evening.  In  one 
of  these  excursions,  I  found  an  agceeable  and  in- 
structive acquaintance,  in  the  person  of  the  chief 
priest  of  a  new  temple,  which  the  Prah-klang  was 
constructing.  I  had  several  interviews  with  the 
same  person  afterwards,  atid  invariably  found  him 
kind  in  his  manners,  and  cheerful  in  his  behaviour. 
In  point  of  intelligence,  he  was  greatly  superior 
to  any  other  Siamese  with  whom  I  had  conversed; 


A17D  COCHIN   CHINA.  215 

and  he  was  always  ready  to  communicate  his  know- 
ledge without  reserve  or  ostentation.  In  my  first 
viait,  we  entered  freely  into  conversation  respect- 
ing the  history  and  tenets  of  his  religion.  In  the 
course  of  it,  he  informed  me  that  the  Buddhists 
gladly  received  converts,  but  did  not  go  about 
seeking  for  them;  and  he  mentioned  that  four 
prosdytes  had  been  recently  made  from  among 
the  Christian  inhabitants  of  Bang-kok,  and  many 
more  from  the  Mohammedan  population.  He  ex* 
hifaited  to  us  the  library  of  the  temple,  which 
was  seaningly  composed  of  about  a  hundred  hand-- 
some  volumes.  Several  of  these  were  prpduced 
for  our  inspection.  They  consisted,  like  those  I 
Jiad  before  seen,  of  smooth  slips  of  palm -leaf, 
about  two  inches  broad,  and  a  foot  and  a  half 
long,  filed  at  both  ends,  on  a  silken  cord.  They 
were  aQ  gilt  at  the  edges,  and  some  of  them  hand- 
somely illuminated.  Upon  this,  as  on  all  future 
occasions,  we  were  presented  by  this  respectable 
individual  ivith  tea  and  betel. 

Matf  6. — ^The  arrival  of  his  Majesty's  ship,  which 
had  been  to  Calcutta,  was  announced  two  days  ago. 
She  took  eighteen  months  to  perform  this  voy- 
age. The  Frah-klang  estimates  the  loss  which 
the  King  would  sustein  from  this  adventure  at 
three  piculs  of  silver,  or  twenty-four  thousand 
ticals ;  and  it  is  most  probable  that  the  Siamese 
will  not  soon  again  attempt  a  project  so  much 
beyond  their  skill  and  strength  as  a  voyage  to 


216  EBIBASSV  TO  51A9£ 

Bengal.  The  Siamese  ship  left  Singapore  ten 
days  before  we  did.  Attempting  a  direct  passage 
up  the  Giilf^  she  was  tossed  to  and  fix)  for  six 
weeks  at  the  entrance  of  the  Straits  of  Malacca, 
and  finally  falling  to  leeward,  she  ran  aground 
near  the  Dutch  settlement  of  Rhio.  Here  the 
local  ofiicers  of  the  Dutch  Government  took  the 
opportunity  of  settling  an  old  account  with  the 
Siamese  Government,  by  making  the  commander 
pay  a  balance  said  to  be  due,  on  account  of  certain 
arbitrary  transactions  of  the  latter  at  Bang-kok> 
relating  to  three  Dutch  ships  which  had  come  to 
Siam  in  1884  for  cargoes  of  salt,  for  the  supply 
of  Java  in  a  season  of  scarcity. 

Every  day  brought  to  light  some  new  occur- 
rence calculated  to  display  the  ceaseless  jealousy 
and  suspicious  character  of  the  Siamese  Govern- 
ment. A  government  so  arbitrary  and  unjust,  can 
place  no  reasonable  reliance  upon  its  own  subjects, 
and  seems  to  be  in  perpetual  dread  that  they  are 
to  be  excited  to  insurrection  or  rebellion  by  the 
example  of  strangers.  This  is  unquestionably  the 
true  explanation  of  the  hectic  alarm  and  distrust 
which  it  entertains  of  all  foreigners.  One  of  the 
interpreters  of  the  Mission  reported  to-day  the 
circumstances  of  a  conversation  which  he  held 
the  day  before  wit;li  one  of  the  brothers  of  the 
Prah-klang,  who  was  much  in  the  minister's  con- 
fidence. This  person  said,  that  ^^the  English 
were  a  dangerous  people  to  have  any  connexion 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  217 

with,  for  that  they  were  not  only  the  ablest; 
but  the  most  ambitious  of  the  European  nations 
who  frequented  the  East."  The  Interpreter  an- 
swered, that  it  was  impossible  the  English  could 
have  any  ambitious  views  on  Siam,  "  for  what," 
said  he,  **  could  they,  who  have  so  mach  already, 
and  are  accustomed  to  convenient  countries,  do 
with  such  a  one  as  yours,  in  which  there  are  nei- 
ther roads  nor  bridges,  and  where  you  are  ankle- 
deep  in  mire  at  every  step.  The  reply,  according 
to  the  Interpreter's  report  was,  "Do  not  speak  so; 
these  people  are  clever  and  active,  and  the  coun- 
try would  not  be  long  in  their  possession,  before 
they  made  it  such  that  you  might  sleep  in  the 
streets  and  rice-fields."  It  may  be  necessary  to 
mention  that  the  person  who  made  this  commu- 
nication was  by  birth  a  Siamese,  and  by  disposi- 
tion very  talkative  and  communicative. 

May  7.— We  rowed  several  miles  up  the  river 
yesterday  morning.  On  the  right  bank,  and  op- 
posite to  the  most  northerly  angle  of  the  palace- 
walls,  there  are  a  great  number  of  long  sheds, 
under  which  are  placed  the  war-boats,  and  the 
King's  barges  of  state.  One  of  the  latter  descrip- 
tion, I  am  told,  is  a  great  curiosity,  on  account  of 
its  enormous  length ; — its  being  hollowed  out  of 
the  single  trunk  of  a  tree,  and  the  richness  of  the 
gilding  and  carving  by  which  it  is  ornamented. 
We  had  no  opportunity,  however,  of  gratifying 
our  curiosity,  by  inspecting  "  the  royal  navy,"  for 


218  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

the  tide  was  low^  and  an  intervening  bank  of 
deep  mud  prevented  our  approach. 

The  town,  with  its  floating  houses,  continues 
along  both  banks  of  the  river  as  far  as  we  could 
see ;  and  such  of  the  Siamese  who  now  accom- 
panied  us  as  had  visited  the  old  capital,  stated 
that  both  sides  of  the  river  were  well-peopled 
all  the  way  to  that  place.  The  distance  cannot  be 
less  than  sixty  miles. 

In  returning  home  we  visited  the  temple,  called 
by  the  Siamese  Watnak,  or  in  Pali  Wata^-naga, 
or  ^^  the  temple  of  the  snake,"  which  has  a  singular 
spire  and  belfry  attached  to  it.  This  remarkable 
object  is,  within,  of  ordinary  masonry,  but  exter^ 
nally  exhibits  an  odd  and  fantastic  species  of.  Mo* 
saic;  being  ovarlaid  throughout  with  pieces  of 
small  china-ware  of  every  hue  and  colour.  The 
figures  carved  upon  this  motley  fabric  consisted 
of  many  snakes  of  monstrous  size,  from  which 
it  takes  its  name, — of  figures  of  elephants,  of  lions, 
and  of  monstrous  human  forms,  male  and  female. 

The  temple  to  which  this  belfry  is  attached 
had  nothing  remarkable  about  it.  The  central 
fane  contained  a  great  figure  of  Gautama  in  brass, 
with  a  group  of  disciples  at  his  feet,  all  gilded 
in  the  usual  manner.  The  priests  who  ushered 
us  in  would  have  us  pull  off  our  shoes,  but  this 
we  declined  to  do,  as  the  same  demand  had  not 
formerly  been  made  by  persons  of  more  respect- 
ability.   What  we  saw  on  entering  was  not  cal- 


AIS^D   COCHIN   OBIKA.  219 

culated  to  excite  our  peculiar  respect.  Several 
Talapoins  were  lying  fast  asleep  and  stretched 
on  the  floor  before  the  altar,  and  a  priest  and  a 
lajnxian  were  playing  chess  dose  to  the  feet  of 
the  God;  whilst  a  crowd  of  idle  fellows,  both 
lay  and  clerical,  were  looking  on.  The  players 
stopped  to  explain  to  us  the  nature  of  the  game, 
which  is  nearly  the  same  as  our  own,  the  powers 
of  the  pieces  being,  however,  more  restricted. 
The  same  curiosity  was  displayed  to-day,  as  upon 
all  former  occasions,  when  we  came  into  contact 
with  large  numbers  of  the  people,  but  there  was 
no  rudeness  nor  ill-humour. 

May  8. — I  succeeded,  after  many  difficulties,  in 
renewing  the  conference,  and  last  night  had  a 
long  discussion  with  the  minister.  This  chief  had 
within  the  last  few  days  been  raised  to  the  perma- 
n«it  post  of  Prah-klang,  in  which  he  had  before 
only  officiated,  and  now  obtained  the  name  and 
title  of  Suri-wung-kosa,  instead  of  Suri-wung- 
muntri,  which  he  had  formerly  bom6.  Every 
advance  in  rank  or  station  is  in  a  similar  manner 
marked  by  some  alteration  in  the  titl6. 

From  what  I  had  observed  of  th^'  temper  and 
character  df  the  Siamese  Government,  and  par- 
ticularly th^  specimen  of  their  conduct  towards 
the  Portuguese  Consul,  which  had  come  under 
our  observation  since  the  last  conference,  the  pru- 
dence of  forbearing  from  urging  the  proposal  for 
a  resident  British  agent  became  obvious,  although. 


S20  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

indeed^  such  an  appointment  had  been  first  sug* 
gested  by  the  Siamese  themselves,  the  year  before, 
to  an  English  merchant  of  Singapore,  who  was 
the  bearer  of  letters  from  the  Resident  of  that 
place,  as  well  as  from  tlie  Governor  of  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island.  No  direct  negative  was  now 
put  upon  it,  but  there  was,  notwithstanding,  an 
evident  reluctance  to  it ;  and  I  therefore  resolved 
to  drop  the  subject  altogether,  lest  it  might  in- 
terfere with  objects  which  promised  to  be  more 
attainable.  There  is  no  question,  at  the  same 
time,  but  that  such  an  officer  is  extremely  de- 
sirable, and  will  ultimately  afford  the  only  means 
of  giving  security,  respectability,  and  extension 
to  our  commercial  interest  at  Siam.  In  the  pre- 
sent state  of  our  acquaintance  with  the  Siamese, 
however,  such  an  appointment  might  lead  to 
difficulties.  An  indignity  offered  on  their  part 
could  not  be  overlooked — a  quarrel  might  be  the 
consequence,  and  such  a  quarrel  might  involve, 
in  spite  of  ourselves,  a  breach  of  that  neutral 
policy  which  we  have  long  made  it  a  rule  to  pur- 
sue in  reference  to  the  continental  nations  beyond 
the  Ganges  * 

A  Siamese  translation  of  the  sketch  of  the 
treaty  which  I  proposed,  had  been  furnished  to 
the  Prah-klang  since  the  last  conference,  and 
the  Siamese    Court    was,   of  course,  now  fully 

*  This  passage  was  written  before  the  Barmese  war. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA,  221 

aware  of  the  nature  and  extent  of  our  demands. 
No  objections  were  made  to  the  greater  number 
of  the  detailed  arrangements  which  we  proposed, 
but  a  very  decided  one  to  a  free  and  unre- 
strained trade.  The  Prah-klang  insisted  upon 
the  King's  right  of  preemption,  stating  that  it 
was  a  prerogative  which  had  existed  from  time 
immemorial,  and  could  not  be  surrendered.  He 
well  knew,  that  as  long  as  this  was  maintained, 
all  the  minor  arrangements  might  readily  be 
defeated.  The  mode  of  carrying  on  the  foreign 
trade  at  Siam,  is,  in  short,  this:  when  a  ship 
arrives,  the  officers  of  Government,  under  pre- 
text of  serving  the  King,  select  a  large  share 
of  the  most  vendible  pai-t  of  the  goods,  and 
put  their  own  price  upon  them*  No  private 
merchant,  under  penalty  of  heavy  fine,  or  severe 
corporal  punishment,  is  allowed  to  make  an  ofier 
for  the  goods  until  the  agents  of  the  Court  are 
satisfied.  A  large  portion,  and  often  the  whole,  of 
the  export  cargo  is  supplied  to  the  foreign  mer- 
chant upon  the  same  principle.  The  officers  of  Go- 
vernment purchase  the  commodities  at  the  lowest 
market  rate,  and  sell  them  to  the  exporter  at  an 
arbitrary  valuation.  The  resident  Chinese  alone, 
from  their  numbers  and  influence,  have  got  over 
this  difficulty,  and  of  course  are  carrying  on  a 
very  large  and  valuable  commerce.  This  perni- 
cious and  ruinous  practice  is  the  only  real  obstacle 
to  the  European  trade  in  Siam,  for  neither  the 


822  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

duties  oil  mercfaandixe  or  tonnage  are  excessiTe, 
propnty  is  sufficiently  secure,  and  tlie  country  is 
fertile,  abounding  in  productions  suited  for  foreign 
trade  beyond  any  other  with  which  I  am  a& 
quainted.  A  stout  resistance  was  made  to  the 
exercise  of  this  right,  and  the  freedom  from  offi* 
cial  interference  whidli  existed,  not  only  at  all 
our  own  Indian  ports,  but  in  China.  an4  elsewboe^ 
was  particularly  urged.  I  addressed  myself,  how- 
ever, to  a  party  deeply  intererted  in  maintaining 
the  present  order  of  things — ^to  the  individuals, 
in  short,  whose  emoluments  arose  from  the  very 
source  of  corruption  which  was  complained  of, 
and  who  were  not  therefore  likely  to  be  convineed 
by  any  arguments.  The  injustice  of  the  principle 
was  too  apparent  to  be  openly  maintained,  and 
the  Frah-klang  only  attempted  to  palliate  it  by 
ui^ing  the  moderation  with  which  it  was  eqcer* 
dsed,  and  the  security  which  the  int»ference  of 
Government  afforded  to  the  foreign  merchant  ia 
jrealizing  his  returns. 

At  this  interview  the  Prah-klang  asked  whether 
the  British  Government  would  enter  into  a.  con- 
tract with  that  of  Siam,  for  the  supply  of  salt  for 
Bengal ;  a  commodity,  he  said,,  which  Siam  afibrdr 
ed,  of  an  excellent  quality  and  in  great  abundance. 
He  observed  that  the  King  of  Siam  would  oon* 
tract  at  once  to  supply  400,000  piculs,  or  about 
24,000  tons,  and  a  larger  quantity  afterwards,  if 
required.     I  was  unprepared  for  the  discussion  of 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  S23 

this  point  at  the  time,  but  resolved  to  renew  it  at 
a  future  interview,  hoping  that  some  advantage 
might  be  drawn  from  it. 

May  9.— On  the  28th  or  29th  of  April,  the 
arrival,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maiam,  of  anlBmbassy 
from  the  new  King  of  Cochin  China  was  an- 
noimeed.  The  Siamese  Court  received  this  mis- 
sion with  much  respect  and  attention*  Great  pre- 
parations were  made  all  the  way  from  Fak-nam 
to  the  capital  for  its  accommodation  and  recep- 
tion, which  were  in  all  respects  as  magnificent  as 
the  Court  could  contrive.  The  Ambassadors  were 
feasted  on  the  way,  seraiaded  with  Siamese  music, 
and  amused  with  gymnastic  and  tiieatrical  exhi^ 
bitions/ wherever  they  rested.  The  preparatic»is 
took  so  long  a  time  that  it  was  only  last  night  that 
the  Mission  arrived  at  Bang-kok.  About  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  procession  passed,  and 
we  had  a  full  and  near  view  of  it  from  our  win- 
dows. It  'had  certainly  a  very  gay  and  imposing 
appearance.  There  were  not  less  than  twelve  or 
thirteen  gilded  barges,  each  rowed,  or  rather  pad- 
dled, by  from  twenty-five  to  fifty  boatmen,  who 
were  uniformly  dressed  in  scarlet,  and  who  pulled 
with  great  animation,  keeping  time  to  a  Siamese 
song.  This  equipage  was  entirely  furnished  by 
the  Siamese  Grovemment ;  for  the  three  small 
junks  in  which  the  Embassy  had  arrived,  were 
still  at  the  entrance  of  the  river.  The  Cochin 
Chinese  Ambassadors  took  up  their  residence  on 


224  EMBASSY  TO   SIA&i 

the  opposite  side  of  the  Menam  to  us,  and  within 
the  enclosure  of  the  Palace. 

I  had  some  days  ago  sent  the  Mission-ship  down 
the  river,  with  directions,  if  possible,  to  cross  the 
bar,  that  no  delay  might  take  place  in  quitting 
Siam,  as  soon  as  the  negociation  should  be  brought 
to  a  dose.  Both  the  commander  and  Siamese  pi- 
lots reported,  upon  this  occasion,  that  it  would 
not  be  practicable  to  get  over  the  bar  with  less 
than  thirteen  and  a  half  feet  water,  and  that  at 
present,  at  the  highest  flood-tide,  there  was  not 
above  twelve.  This  proved,  in  our  situation,'  a 
serious  disappointment;  for  the  delay  which  it 
occasioned,  threatened  to  defeat  some  of  the  sub- 
sequent objects  of  the  Mission,  and,  what  was 
still  worse,  to  bring  us  in  the  mean  time  into  an 
unpleasant  state  of  collision  with  the  Siamese 
authorities. 

May  12. — ^The  Cochin  Chinese  Ambassadors 
were  yesterday  presented  to  the  King.  They 
were  received,  I  am  told,  without  much  cere- 
mony,— the  intercourse  being  considered  of  so 
friendly  and  familiar  a  nature,  as  not  to  call  for 
extraordinary  formalities. 

We  were  now  permitted  to  go  abroad  freely, 
and  at  all  hours,  but  our  visits  never  extended 
beyond  a  few  miles  of  the  town.  The  jea- 
lousy of  the  Siamese  Government  was  suffici- 
ently apparent,  and  every  precaution  was  neces^ 
sary  to  prevent  its  taking  alarm;  a  matter  indeed, 


AND  COCHIN   CHIKA4  aS5 

which,  after  ajil^  was  nearly  impossible.  I  once 
made  a  proposition  to  visit  the  old  capital,  which 
would  have  shown  us  a  good  deal  of  a  country 
not  for  many  years  visited  by  Europeans;  but 
it  was  received  with  so  much  coldness  that  I 
took  care  not  to  renew  it. 

Frequent  engagements  to  renew  the  conference 
were  as  often  put  off,  and  for  several  days  to 
come  the  Prah-klang  had  an  apology  in  the  af- 
fair of  his  eldest  son's  tonsure,  one  of  the  most 
important  events  in  the  life  of  a  Siamese. 

May  14. — I  paid  another  visit  to  the  old 
Prior  of  the  Prah-klang's  monastery.  He  was 
extremely  communicative  on  every  subject  re- 
specting morals  or  religion,  but  upon  matters 
of  a  temporal  nature  he  refused  to  speak,  show- 
ing above  all  a  strong  reluctance  to  touch  upon 
any  thing  that  was  in  the  remotest  degree  of  a 
political  character.  For  example,  he  would  make 
no  communication  whatever  on  the  subject  of 
the  dvil  history  of  the  country.  In  the  course 
of  the  conversation  he  repeated  to  us  the  ten 
commandments  of  the  Buddhist  system  of  morals. 
The  fifth  of  these  says,  '^  You  shall  not  drink 
wine  or  the  juice  of  the  palm."  The  old  man 
thought  this  a  fitting  occasion  to  address  a  lec- 
ture to  us,  and,  pausing,  he  besought  us,  as  we 
valued  our  happiness,  to  desist  from  drinking 
wine,  for  that  the  punishment  of  that  crime  in 
another  state  of  existence  was  to  have  a  stream 

VOL.   I.  Q 


226  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

of  mdted  copper  perpetually  poured  down  the 
throat ! .  We  assiured  him  of  our  moderation,  but 
this  did  not  satisfy  him;  for  he  seemed-  to  con- 
sider the  most  trifling  violation  of  the  precept 
as  scarcely  a  less  offence  than  the  sin  of  drunken- 
ness itself. 

In  reference  to  the  commandment  which  for- 
bids the  destruction  of  animal  life»  we  brought 
to  his  notice  the  practice  of  the  Jains  of  India^ 
who  often  wore  a  doth  over  the  mouth,  to 
prevent  even  the  accidental  ingress  of  insects — 
who  always  looked  before  they  trod  the  ground, 
and  who  made  it  a  practice  to  strain  the  water 
before  drinking — all  out  of  tenderness  for  ani- 
mal  life.  He  seemed  to  consider  all  this  as 
highly  meritorious,  and  said  it  was  a  degree  of 
piety  which  the  priests  of  Siam  had  not  attained, 
and  that  they  might  reasonably  be  ashamed  of 
their  inferiority. 

Returning  home  after  it  was  dusk,  we  met 
two  persons  conversing  together  in  the  Javanese 
language.  Its  accents,  in  this  remote  place,  ex- 
cited our  curiosity,  and  we  entered  into  a  con- 
versation with  the  strangers.  One  of  them  re- 
cognized  me  as  an  old  acquaintance,  and  described 
himself  as  one  of  a  party,  consisting  of  seven 
young  men  and  six  young  women,  who  bad 
been  kidnapped  at  Samarang,  in  Java,  about 
three  years  before,  by  the  Commander  of  a  Chi- 
nese junk,  and  sold  as  slaves  to  the  Siamese. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  287 

The  Siamese  Government  has  encouraged  this 
nefarious  practice.  I.  am  told,  that  of  late  years 
upwards  of  four  hundred  young  t)hine$e  have 
been  kidnapped  by  their  countrymen^  and  brought 
to  Slam,  and  sold  as  slaves.  Notwithstanding 
the  vigilance  which  prevails  on  this  subject  in 
our  own  ports,  the  King  of  Siam's  ship  con« 
trived  to  carry  off  from  Calcutta,  and  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island,  five  young  African  negroes. 
They  were  presented  as  curiosities  to  the  Prince 
Krom-chiat  and  the  Prah-klang,  and  we  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  seeing  several  of  them. 

May  15. — The  epidemic  cholera  morbus  which, 
two  years  ago,  committed  dreadful  ravages  in 
Siam  and  the  neighbouring  countries,  broke  out 
afresh  at  Bang*kok,  with  considerable  activity 
about  this  period.  About  twelve  o'clock  last 
night  I  was  awakened  by  a  message  from  the 
Palace,  informing  me  that  one  of  the  Prin- 
cesses, sister  to  the  King,  was  attacked  by  the 
epidemic,  and  requesting  that  Mr.  Finlayson 
might  prescribe  for  her.  Although  at  the  time 
suffering  severely  from  the  effects  of  the  malady, 
which  afterwards  proved  fatal  to  him,  Mr.  Fin- 
layscm  wait  without  hesitation.  He  was  not, 
however,  permitted  to  see  his  patient,  but  kept 
waiting  in  the  Palace  of  the  Prince  Kromrchiat 
for  upwards  of  three  hours,  with  the  View  of 
obtaining  an  opinion  upon  the  symptoms  and 
progress  of  her  complaint,  as  they  Were  reported 

Q  2 


28S  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

by  her  attendants.  The  Prince  kept  him  com- 
pany all  the  time.  His  conyersation  was  chiefly 
upon  medical  questions ;  and»  according  to  Mr. 
Finlayson's  account,  he  put  many  extraordinary 
ones. 

The  Princess  died  a  few  hours  after  Mr.  Pin- 
kyson  left  the  Palace.  She  was  a  young  wo- 
man of  about  sixteen  years  of  age,  and  uuk 
married.  The  event  seemed  to  create  much 
affliction  among  her  relatives.  The  more  joyous 
parts  of  the  festivities  now  going  on  at  tfat 
Prah-klang's  house,  were  in  consequence,  for  a 
time,  interrupted.  Not  knowing  of  her  death, 
and  thinking  it  an  act  of  civility,  I  sent  a 
messenger  to  inquire  after  her  health.  The 
person  to  whom  it  was  delivered,  the  brollter 
of  the  Prah-klang,  returned  for  answer,  that 
the  subject  was  one  which  he  dared  not  even 
speak  of.  AU  the  other  Siamese  to  whom  I 
introduced  the  subject,  spoke'  of  it  in  the  same 
mysterious  manner,  as  if  persons  of  the  royal 
blood  were  exempted  from  the  common  law  of 
mortality,  or  that  at  least  it  did  not  belong  to 
the  vulgar  to  imagine  otherwise. 

May  16.— The  Prah-klang  sent  to  wait  upon 
us  this  mornipg  the  Brahmins  who  were  acting 
as  astrologers  at  the  ceremony  of  his  son's  ton- 
Sure.  Among  these  was  the  person  with  whom 
I  had  formerly  conversed  at  the  Hindu  temple ; 
but  the  principal  man,  and  the  chief  of  all  the 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  229 

Hindus  at  Bang-kok,  was  a  person  whose  name, 
or  rather,  I  suppose,  title,  was  Prah-maha-raja* 
iLTO-putra-guru.  The  first  of  these  words  means 
Lord,  and  is  the  common  appellative  of  the 
priests  of  Buddha  in  Siam ;  and  the  two  last, 
which  are  Sanskrit,  ''  the  son  of  the  spiritual 
guide;''  for  his  father,  by  the  account  he  ren- 
dered to  us,  was  the  first  of  his  family  that  came 
to  Siam  about  seventy  years  ago.  Putra-guru 
was  a  taU  slender  old  man,  with  much  of  the 
Hindu  form  of  features,  although  bom  of  a 
Siamese  mother.  The  account  he  gave  of  him- 
^self,  and  of  the  rest  of  the  Hindus  of  Bang-kok, 
was,  that  their  forefathers  were  all  emigrants 
from  the  jsacred  isle  of  Kamiseram ;  that  they 
came  without  their  families,  and  intermarried 
with  the  women  of  the  country ;  that  they  were 
all  of  the  two  first  Hindu  classes,  or  priests  and 
soldiers,  and  of  the  sect  of  Siwa.  We  had  an 
opportunity  of  observing,  upon  the  present  oc- 
casion, that  they  painted  the  forehead  according 
to  the  type  of  that  sect,  and  that  they  wore  the 
cord  which  marks  the  higher  orders  of  the  Hin- 
dus. They  told  us  that  they  had  lost  the  use 
of  the  vernacular  language  of  their  forefathers, 
but  that  they  had  writings  amongst  them  in  the 
Sanskrit  language,  and  in  the  provincial  charac*^ 
ter  of  their  original  country.  They  honour 
Buddha  not  as  a  God,  but  as  a  saint  of  great 
reputation.    Their  learning  appears  to  be  small. 


S80  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

and  they  live  upon  the  reputation  of  their  astro- 
logical knowledge,  being  constantly  consulted  by 
the  Court,  and  by  persons  of  rank,  to  give  prog- 
nostications ;  for  astrology,  as  an  art,  is  forbidden 
to  the  Talapoins.  I  am  not  aware  that  they 
possess  any  astrcHiomical  knowledge,  although  it 
was  from  the  predecessors  of  these  people  that 
La  Loubere  obtained  the  first  Indian  astrono- 
mical tables  brought  to  Europe,  and  which  after- 
wards excited  so  great  a  sHare  of  curiosity. 

Some  questions  put  to  our  visitors  upon  the 
present  occasion,  respecting  the  origin  of  the 
Hindu  images  we  saw  in  the  temple,  eluci- 
dated a  point  of  some  consequence  in  the  his- 
tory of  Hindu  emigration.  They  stated  that 
the  images  in  question  were  brought  to  Siam 
from  Western  India  in  the  year  765  of  the 
vulgar  era  of  the  Siamese,  which  corresponds 
with  the  year  1406  of  our  time.  This  fact,  if 
correct,  proves  that  an  intercourse  subsisted  be- 
tween Western  India  and  Siam  a  full  century 
before  Europeans  had  found  their  way  to  the 
latter  country. 

We  made  the  Brahmins,  before  parting,  a  pre- 
sent of  some  white  Indian  cloth,  which  is  their 
only  wear,  and  upon  which  they  set  a  high 
value.  They  thanked  us,  and  were  about  to 
depart;  but  recollecting  themselves  they  return- 
ed, and  said,  that  if  we  had  no  objections  they 
would  make  a  short  prayer  for  us  on  the  spot, 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  281 

as  the  country  was  threatened  with  a  visitation 
of  sickness.  They  accordingly  seated  themselves 
once  more,  and  chanted  a  hrief  prayer  for  our 
health  and  prosperity,  and  then  retired,  appa- 
rently satisfied  with  having  performed  their  duty, 
and  discharged  their  obligation  for  the  present 
which  had  been  made  to  them. 

May  17. — The  ceremonies  attending  the  ton- 
sore  of  the  Prah-klang's  eldest  son,  which  com- 
menced on  the  13th,  ended  only  to-day.  The 
whole  took  place  immediately  under  our  windows, 
and  we  had  an  opportunity,  at  all  hours,  of  ob- 
serving what  was  going  forward.  These  festivi- 
ties appear  to  me  to  afford  both  an  interesting  and 
striking  picture  of  the  religion,  manners,  and 
opinions  of  the  Siamese,  and  I  shall  therefore  offer 
a  sketch  of  them.  The  Brahmins,  acting  as  astro- 
logers, had  divined  that  the  fortunate  day  and 
hour  for  commencing  the  ceremonies  were  the 
9th  of  the  dark  half  of  the  moon,  and  the  3d 
watch  of  the  day.  The  ceremony  began  with  a 
feast,  and  as  the  guests  sat  down,  the  music, 
consisting  of  two  full  bands  of  not  less  than 
fourteen  or  fifteen  musicians,  struck  up.  About 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  yoiing  chief 
made  his  appearance,  and  although  thirteen  or 
fourteen  years,  of  age,  he  was  carried  upon  the 
shoulders  of  an  attendant.  He  was  gorgeously 
dedked  out  with  a  load-  of  gold  and  jewels.  Seven 
Brahmins  dressed  in  white  preceded  him,  and  led 


232  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

him  to  a  seat  in  the  centre  of  the  open  8aloon»  the 
same  in  which  the  Prah-klang  was  accustomed  to 
receive  ourselves  when  we  visited  hhn.     A  crowd 
of  Talapoins  had  by  this  time  assembled.     These 
keeping  at  a  distance  from  the  guests  who  were 
still  feasting,  as  well  as  from  the  proeessicm,  be- 
gan to  chant  prayers  or  hymns  in  a  loud  but  not 
harmonious  strain.     This  lasted   for  two  hours. 
Several    heaps   of  yellow    cloth   in  ready-made 
dresses,  were  displayed  upon  the  floor,  and  from 
these  a  dress  was  distributed  to  each  TalapoiD, 
as  soon  as  the  prayers  were  over.     They  received 
■and  put  them  on  on  the  spot  without  any  ac- 
knowledgment, for  this  is  beneath  the  dignity  of 
a  priest  of  Gautama,  however  high  the  rank  of 
the  donor,  or  valuable  the  gift.     Slender  atten* 
tion   was    paid  to   the    prayers.      Most   of  the 
auditors  were  eating,  and  some  were  smiling  or 
laughing,  others  yawning.     These  prayers  being 
in  the  Bali  language,  must  haye  been  unintelli- 
gible  to  most  of  them;  but  independently  of  this, 
the  Siamese  laity  make  a  complete  surrender  of  all 
spiritual  concerns  to  the  Talapoins,  being  of  <^i- 
nion  that  when  they  pay  them  sufficiently  well, 
they  discharge  every  necessary  religious  duty,  and 
it  may  be  presumed  most  of  their  moral  obliga- 
tions also.     During  all  this  time  the  music  con- 
tinued playing,  the  musicians  seemingly  striving 
with  each  other,  not  for  melody,  but  for  noise. 
At  night  the  saloon  was  brilliantly  and  even 


AlU)  COCHIN  CHINA.  2S8 

tastefuUy  lighted  up,  for  this  is  aii  art  which  the 
Siamese  understand  very  well.  At  one  end  of  it 
there  was  a  fancy  altar-piece,  decorated  with  co- 
loured lamps,  and  artificial  and  natural  flowers. 
On  the  top  of  it  was  displayed  the  Prah-klang's 
library  of  saered  books,  consisting  of  thirty  or 
forty  very  handsome  volumes.  In  the  court- 
yard, and  before  the  saloon,  a  pulpit  was  erected, 
having  over  it  a  canopy  of  white  muslin.  From 
this  the  priests  delivered  discourses  almost  all 
night,  relieving  each  other  at  intervals.  Songs, 
some  of  them,  as  we  were  told,  of  a  licentious  and 
indecent  character,  were  occasionally  introduced; 
but  what  gave  most  satisfaction  were  the  jests  and 
mimicry  of  a  professed  buffoon,  who  set  the  com* 
pany  in  a  roar.  This  singular  medley  of  feasting, 
praying,  singing,  and  buflfoonery,  went  on  with 
little  interruption,  leaving  only  a  few  hours  in  the 
morning  for  the  inmates  of  the  house  to  repose. 
From  the  third  day,  indeed,  the  more  joyful  parts 
ci  the  ceremony  were  in  some  measure  interrupt- 
ed, owing  to  the  death  of  the  princess  already 
maitioned.  From  that  time  there  were  no  more 
songs  or  buffoonery,  and  the  gymnastic  and  dra- 
matic exhibitions  which  were  promised  were  not 
exhibited. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day  of  the 
ceremony  the  actual  tonsure  of  the  head  took 
place.  On  this  occasion  the  Brahmins,  as  before, 
bad   predicted    the  fortunate  moment.      They 


2S4  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

ushered  the  young  man,  still  on  the  shoulders 
of  an  attendant,  but  dressed  in  a  suit  of  white, 
into  the  saloon.  The  Talapoins  repeated  hymns, 
and  the  tonsure  was  effected  by  the  hands  of  two 
Siamese  of  considerable  rank,  as  no  person  of  an 
inferior  condition  could  presume  to  touch  so 
sacred  and  inviolable  a  part  of  the  young  chief 
as  his  head,  without  dishonouring  him.  After 
this  operation,  which  consisted  in  shaving  the 
whole  head,  he  was  placed  under  a  canopy  erect- 
ed in  the  court-yard,  and  here  a  quantity  of 
water  was  poured  over  him.  He  was  then 
dressed  in  a  new  suit,  and  furnished  with  a 
sword.  Thus  habited  he  walked  back  to  the 
«aloon  -without  being  carried ;  all  this  part  of 
the  ceremony  being  intended  to  express  his  eman- 
cipation from  childhood,  and  his  entering  upon 
the  condition  of  manhood.  The  Prince  Kromi^ 
chiat  honoured  this  part  of  the  ceremony  with 
his  presence. 

After  the  ceremony  was  so  far  concluded,  a 
vast  quantity  of  ready-dressed  food  was  served 
to  persons  of  all  descriptions  and  denominations; 
the  better  sort  of  people  feasting  within  the  sa- 
loon, and  the  crowd  in  the  court-yard.  The 
Talapoins  alone,  to  whom  it  is  unlawful  to  eat 
out  of  their  monasteries,  had  between  thirty  and 
forty  huge  Chinese  jars  of  dressed  victuals  and 
sweetmeats,  apparently  containing  a  meal  for  se^ 
veral  thousand  persons,  sent  to  them.     We  could 


AND    COCHIN   CHINA.  285 

discover  no  vestige  of  religious  antipathy,  on  the 
part  of  the  motley  guests,  who  consisted  of  lay 
Siamese,  Kambojans,  Chinese,  Christians,  Moham-^ 
medans,  and  Brahmins.  The  latter  not  only  eat 
food  dressed  by  Siamese  cooks,  but  made  a  hearty 
meal  m  the  same  apartment  where  the  other 
guests  were  consuming  beef,  eggs,  and  such  other 
articles  as  their  forefathers  would  have  deemed 
an  abomination.  But  the  Hindus,  like  other 
men,  notwithstanding  their  stubborn  pretensions, 
yield  in  this,  as  in  many  other  things,  to  the 
force  of  necessity,  and  learn  the  wisdom  of  ac- 
commodating themselves  to  their  situation. 

May  18.*-Ye8terday  being  the  fifth  and  last 
day  of  the  ceremony,  the  Prah-klang,  in  compli- 
ment to  us,  gave  an  entertainment,  and  the  Por- 
tuguese  Consul,  with  his  secretary,  and  the  com- 
manders and  officers  of  the  English  vessels  in  the 
river,  were  invited  to  meet  us.  The  party  con- 
sisted  of  fourteen  Europeans,  most  probably  the 
greatest  assemblage  which  had  met  together  in 
Siam  since  the  visitation  of  the  French,  180  years 
before.  The  dinner  was  in  the  European  fashion, 
the  Christian  interpreters  acting  as  footmen,  and 
the  Christian  Inteiidant  of  the  Port  as  maitre^ 
d^hotely  for  the  Siamese*  chiefs  are  reckless  how 
they  use  or  abuse  these  poor  people.  The  table 
was  abundantly  furnished  with  viands,  dressed  in 
a  di^nly  way,  not  offensive  to  the  European  pa- 
late, as  is  most  commonly  the  case  with  Indian 


1^86  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

cookery.  Among  the  viands  there  were  heef^ 
venison,  and  abundance  of  poultry.  The  Prah- 
klang,  observing  that  we  were  somewhat  surprised 
at  this,  smiled,  and  begged  us  to  put  no  questions, 
but  eat  heartily,  and  that  this  was  the  principle 
upon  which  he  himself  acted  in  similar  cases. 
During  the  entertainment  he  sat  near  us,  doing 
the  honours  of  the  feast,  without  however  par- 
taking of  it.  His  son  and  nephew  sat  down  as 
upon  a  former  occasion,  and  eat  heartily  and  in- 
discriminately of  every  description  of  animal  food, 
refraining  scrupulously,  however,  from  wine.  The 
Prah-klang,  who,  from  the  frequent  resort  of  Eu- 
ropean and  American  vessels  of  late  years,  has 
acquired  some  knowledge  of  our  customs,  pro^ 
posed  to  us  to  drink  the  following  toasts,  in  the 
order  in  which  I  now  mention  them.  "  The  King 
of  Siam,"  «  the  King  of  England,"  "  the  King 
of  Portugal,"  "the  Prince  Kroma-chiat,"  •*  the 
Governor-general  of  India,"  and  **  the  Viceroy 
of  Goa."  He  noticed  that  we  did  not  drink  the 
health  of  the  King  of  Siam  with  three  cheers,  as 
he  had  observed  Europeans  and  Americans  do  on 
similar  occasions.  It  was  explained  that  this  tu- 
multuous mark  of  consideration  was  omitted  out 
of  respect  to  his  grief  for  the  melancholy  event 
which  had  recently  taken  place  in  the  Palace. 
He  replied  with  vivacity,  and  in  the  true  strain 
of  an  Eastern  courtier,  '*  If  this  house  should  fall 
on  my  head,  let  no  mark  of  respect  to  the  King 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  2S7 

(literally  the  owner  of  heads)  be  omitted,  for  the 
greatest  misfortune  befalling  me  or  any  one  else, 
is  not  to  be  put  in  comparison  with  the  most 
trifling  honour  which  is  due  to  my  King."  We 
got  up  from  the  entertainment  between  eight 
and  nine  o'clock,  serenaded  by  a  Siamese  band  of 
music  as  we  departed. 

May  19.— Upon  the  occasion  of  ayoung  man's 
tonsure^  friends  and  relations  are  in  the  practice 
of  making  presents.  The  Prince  Kroma-chiat 
had  given  the  young  chief  five  catties  of  silver, 
or  400  ticals,  and  I  took  the  opportunity  of  pre» 
senting  him  with  seven  or  560  ticals,  in  the  name 
of  the  Marquis  of  Hastings. 

The  conference  was  renewed  to-day  at  twelve 
o'clock.  I  urged  the  necessity  of  unrestricted 
trade,  and  the  advantage  which  would  accrue 
£rom  foregoing  the  claim  of  preemption.  The 
Prah-klang  feigned  to  be  of  my  opinion,  but  said, 
that  after  due  deliberation,  he  and  the  rest  of 
the  ministers  had  decided,  that  the  proposal  im- 
plied so  great  an  innovation  upon  the  established 
customs  of  the  country,  that  they  dare  not  la&u 
tion  it  to  the  King,  and  that  I  must  propose  it 
personally,  at  an  audience,  which  would  be  grant-* 
ed  in  a  few  days  for  this  purpose.  I  was  much 
surprised  at  this  unexpected  offer,  and  although 
its  sincejity  was  suspicious,  I  gladly  closed  with  it. 

The  subject  of  supplying  salt  to  Bengal  was 
introduced,  and  I  stated  the  terms  upon  which 


2S8  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

it  could  be  admitted,  consistently  with  the  fiscal 
regulations  of  the  Indian  Government.  The 
subject  excited  a  strong  interest — Chinese  ac- 
countants and  sanpans  Avere  put  in  requisition, 
and  the  necessary  calculations  were  made  on  the 
spot.  It  was  declared  as  the  result,  that  no  profit 
could  be  made  by  these  speculations,  and  the  pro^ 
ject  was  tlierefore  abandoned.  An  open  trade  in 
this  article  with  the  Bengal  provinces,  would  pro- 
bably  add  great  facilities  to  the  establishment  of 
an  extensive  intercourse  between  theip  and  Siam ; 
for  salt,  which  is  {H^oduced  in  such  excellence 
and  abundance  in  the  latter  country,  must  always 
form  a  great  part  of  the  cargoes  exported  to 
other  Indian  countries,  where  there  is  a  scarcity 
of  that  commodity.  It  is  chiefly  by  means  of  it 
that  Siam  maintains,  at  present,  so  considerable  a 
traffic  with  Palembang,  the  Straits  of  Malacca, 
and  other  portions  of  the  Malay  country. 

At  this  meeting  the  Prah-klang  requested  me, 
as  a  favour,  to  afford  my  assistance  in  I'endering 
an  intelligible  translation  into  Siamese,  through 
the  Malay  language  of  a  letter  which  he  had 
received  from  one  of  the  secretaries  of  the  In- 
dian Gk)vemment.  I  undertook  this,  and  as  so<m) 
as  I  had  reached  home  Mras  waited  upon  by  the 
Christian  Intendant  of  the  Fort,  accompanied  by 
three  Siamese  secretaries.  It  was  an  extremely 
difficult  matter  to  satisfy  them.  They  cavilled 
at  and  discussed  every  sentence  as  my  Malayan 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  289 

interpreter  proceeded.  When  they  came  to  the 
conclusion  of  the  letter,  they  pointed  out  some 
broken  lines  in  the  original,  of  which  they  desir- 
ed a  literal  translation.  This  was  nothing  more 
or  less  than  the  European  complimentary  fornv 
which  precedes  the  subscription.  No  possible 
translation  could  have  been  given  of  this,  which 
the  vanity  of  the  Siamese  would  not  have  con- 
strued into  an  acknowledgment  of  inferiority  on 
the  part  of  the  writer  and  his  Gtovemment. 
Eastern  ideas  may  be  rendered,  without  diffi- 
culty, into  the  copious  and  flexible  languages  of 
Europe;  but  to  render  the  peculiar  idioms  and 
formalities  of  the  languages  of  Europe  into  the 
meagre  and  obdurate  dialects  of  India  is  alto- 
gether impracticable,  except  when  we  write  with 
an  express  view  to  future  translation,  which  is 
the  safest  course  to  pursue  in  our  intercourse 
with  the  Eastern  nations.  When,  about  two 
years  before  our  arrival,  the  Governor  of  Macao' 
addressed  a  letter  to  the  King  of  Siam,  he  ex- 
pressed the  deep  regret  which  he  felt  at  not 
being  able  to  repair  in  person  to  Siam,  that  there 
he  might  have  "the  honour  of  kissing  his  Ma- 
jesty's royal  hand."  If  the  Governor  of  Macao 
had  reaUy  been  at  Siam,  he  would  not  have 
been  permitted  to  approach  within  twenty  yards 
of  the  King's  person.  His  proposal,  therefore, 
which  was  intended  for  respect  and  civility,  was 
considered  by  the  Siamese   as  highly  offensive. 


240  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

and  was  expunged  by  the  n^inisters  before  they 
woidd  venture  to  explain  the  contents  of  the 
letta*  to  the  King. 

In  the  afternoon  I  had  a  visit  from  a  natiye 
chief;  a  circumstance  which  did  not  often  take 
place,  for  our  vicinity  to  the  Prah-klang's  house, 
and  the  fear  of  exciting  the  jealousy  of  the  Go- 
vernment, prevented  many  persons  from  calling 
upon  us,  who  were  otherwise  well  disposed  to 
do  so.  The  manners  of  this  individual,  who  was 
a  native  of  Lao,  were  singular.  When  he  enter- 
ed the  room,  I  begged  him  to  be  seated;  but 
before  complying,  he  made  three  obeisances  to- 
wards the  palace,  then  three  towards  the  residence 
of  the  Prah-klang,  and  three  more  to  the  company 
before  him.  His  conversation  was  frank  and  in- 
teDigent,  and  he  appeared  well-informed  respect- 
ing his  own  country,  which  foYms  so  interesting 
and  considerable,  but  to  Europeans  so  little 
known,  a  portion  of  the  present  Siamese  Empire. 

May  20. — Within  the  last  two  or  three  days 
the  rains,  which  had  hitherto  been  moderate,  set 
in  with  great  violence.  It  blew  fresh  every  day 
from  the  south-west,  and  this  description  of 
weather  lasted  until  the  beginning  of  July,  a  pe- 
riod of  about  six  weeks,  constituting  the  only 
tempestuous  season  in  the  Gulf  of  Siam,  which  is 
fortunately  free  from  the  violent  equinoctial  gales, 
which  are  a  scourge  to  many  other  portions  of 
the  Indian  seas.    These  heavy  rains  tempered  the 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  241 

weather,  which  had  been  before  sultry  and  op- 
pressive, the  thermometer  in  the  shade  rising  al- 
most  every    day  to  ninety-five  and  ninety-six 
between  the  hours  of  twelve  and  four  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon.    These  advantages,  however,  were 
counterbalanced  by  inconveniences  of  a  different 
description.      Our    ill-constructed  house    leaked 
every,  where,  and  the  rains  brought  from  their 
hiding-places    swarms   of    insects   and    reptiles. 
Among  the  most  troublesome  of  the  latter,  was 
the    Gecko,  or  Tokai  of  the  Malays,  correctly 
pronounced  T^kke,  a  large  species  of  lizard  from 
six  to  nine  inches  long,  marked  with  red  and 
green  spots,  and  frequent  tubercles.*     These  are 
much  more  frequent  in   Siam  than  in  Java  or 
any  other  country  of  the  Indian  Archipelago,  and 
in    the  evening  deafened  us  with  their  singular, 
loud,  and  monotonous  cry.     Snakes  of  difierent 
descriptions  were  also  very  numerous,  and  some 
of  them  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet  long.     These 
last  were  Pythons,  erroneously  called  Boa  Con- 
strictor.    One  of  this  description,  about  eleven 
feet,  long,    was    taken  alive  last  night  in  our 
kitchen  during  a  heavy  fall  of  rain.     It  had  come 
to  prey  upon  some  fowls,  and  was  very  active. 
Although  severely  beaten  over  the  head,  it  re- 
covered, and  after  a  month's  confinement,  effected 
its  escape  from  a  large  chest,  in  which  it  was  kept, 

*  lie  Oecko  de  Siam^  Cuvier. 
VOL.  I.  B 


242  EMBASSY    TO    SI  AM 

although  the  lid  was  pressed  down  by  several 
large  stones.  Two  more  were  seen  on  board  the 
vessels  in  the  river,  and  one  of  them,  about  four- 
teen feet  long,  killed.  How  they  got  into  these 
situations  it  is  not  very  easy  to  understand,  but 
it  is  most  probable  they  crept  up  the  cable. 

In  the  forenoon,  the  commander  of  the  Ame- 
rican ship,  Aurora,  arrived  in  Bang-kok,  having 
left  his  vessel  off  the  bar  of  the  river.  He  stated 
that  he  had  come  for  a  small  quantity  of  sugar  to 
fill  up  his  cargo,  and  unacquainted  with  the  modes 
of  transacting  business  in  Slam,  and  the  difficul- 
ties he  had  to  encounter,  he  promised  himself 
that  he  would  be  detained  no  more  than  four  or 
five  days,  as  would  be  the  case  in  an  American  or 
European  port. 

May  21. — The  reappearance  of  the  epidemic 
cholera  spread  great  alarm  amongst  the  people, 
a  mattef*  which  was  apparent  enough  from  the 
precautions  which  they  took  against  its  attacks. 
The  King,  under  some  superstitious  imagination, 
which  I  am  unable  to  explain,  directed  the  people 
to  keep  at  home,  and  abstain  from  all  work  for 
seven  days.  The  temples  at  this  time  were  more 
frequented  than  usual,  and  numbers  of  persons 
were  to  be  seen  wearing  shreds  of  white  cotton 
yarn  round  the  neck  as  amulets,  whilst  others 
endeavoured  to  recommend  themselves  to  the 
good  will  of  the  gods  by  purchasing  fowls  and 
other  animals  from   strangers,   with  a   view   of 


AND    COCHIN   CHINA.  243 

giving  them  their  liberty  and  saving  them  from 
slaughter.  The  secular  superintendent  of  the 
great  temple,  which  was  the  first  we  visited, 
called  upon  us  in  the  comrse  of  the  day,  and  said 
that  he  had  no  fear  of  the  cholera  morbus^  as  he 
made  frequent  prostrations  before  the  idols,  and 
wore  a  skein  of  cotton  thread  round  his  neck  as 
a  charm.  As  he  spoke,  he  pointed  to  this  potent 
amulet ! 

I  had  another  long  conference  last  night  with 
the  Prah-klang.  Thanmun,  an  officer  of  some 
rank,  was  present,  and  took  an  active  share  in 
the  conversation.  The  commander  of  the  Ame- 
rican ship  came  in  while  the  discussion  was  going 
forward.  The  Prah-klang  seeing  him,  introduced 
the  subject  of  the  American  trade,  and  said, 
"  These  people  bring  us  what  we  are  most  anxious 
to  receive,  plenty  of  fu*e-arms  and  ready  money, 
and  take  away  large  cargoes  of  sugar,  and  other 
produce  of  the  country.**  He  added,  although 
evidently  without  any  ground  for  the  assertion, 
that  he  expected  this  year  eight  or  ten  of  their 
ships.  The  Siamese  Government  had  indeed  found 
the  American  trade  hitherto  a  very  lucrative  mat- 
ter, because  they  had  made  their  own  terms  with 
the  few  vessels  which  had  visited  the  place ;  but 
the  advantages  were  all  on  one  side,  and  the 
Prah-klang  was  disappointed  as  to  the  return  of 
the  Americans,  for  few  or  none  have  visited 
Siam  since. 

R  S 


244  EMBASSY    TO    SIAM 

At  this  conference,  the  subject  of  the  invasion 
of  the  Malay  state  of  Quedah  by  the  Siamese, 
and  the  flight  of  the  Bajah  to  Prince  of  Wales's 
Island,  which  I  had  hitherto  carefully  avoided, 
that  it  might  interfere  as  little  as  possible  with 
the  principal  object  of  the  Mission,  was  at  length 
introduced.    The  Siamese  negociators  stated,  that 
they  knew  nothing  more   of  this  matter,  than 
that  the  Rajah  of  Quedah,  a  tributary  of  Siam, 
had  abandoned  his  own  country,  and  fled  to  a 
foreign  one  for  protection.    They  said,  that  in- 
stead of  seeking  an  asylum  at  Prince  of  Wales's 
Island,  he  should  have  come  to  the  capital,  and 
represented  his  grievances  to  the  King,  and  they 
added,  that  if  he  would  still  come,  ample  justice 
would  be  done  to  hiin.     They  proceeded  to  enu- 
merate the  offences  with  which  the  Malay  Prince 
was  charged  by  the  Siamese  Governor  of  Ligor, 
the  officer  who  superintends  the  affairs  of  all  the 
Malayan  tributaries.    They  stated  that  this  officer 
had  received  an  order  from  the  Court  to  invade 
the  Burman  territories ;  that  for  this  purpose,  he 
had  assembled  an  army,   and  making  the  usual 
demand   for   contributions    from    the   Rajah   of 
Quedah,  the  latter  had  contumaciously   refused 
them;  the  consequence  of  which  was,  that  the 
Siamese  chief  had  marched  upon  Quedah  to  en- 
force his  demand.     I  endeavoured  to  extenuate 
the  conduct  of  the  Malay  chief,  dwelling  upon 
the  poverty  of  his  country,  and  the  frequent  ex- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  245 

actions  by  which  it  was  harassed  by  the  Rajah  of 
Ligor.  I  now  felt  myself  obliged  to  bring  to  the  no- 
tice of  the  negodators  the  overbearing  and  intem- 
perate letters  which  the  latter  Chief  had  addressed 
to  the  Governor  of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island; 
for  this  individual,  as  before  stated,  had  written 
with  great  presumption,  claiming  the  instant  sur- 
render of  the  Rajah  of  Quedah's  person,  and 
threatening  with  punishment  whoever  should  ven- 
ture to  detain  him.  They  feigned  entire  igno- 
rance of  this  last  circumstance;  but  on  my  re- 
turn home,  I  sent  them  copies  of  the  original  cor- 
respondence. 

I  hinted  at  various  proposals  for  our  mediation 
in  restoring  the  Rajah  of  Quedah  to  his  prin- 
cipality ;  but  the  only  alternative  which  would 
be  admitted  was  this  Prince's  repairing  to  the 
Court  in  person,  and  submitting  his  cause  to 
the  justice  of  the  King.  From  what  passed  at 
this  conference,  there  could  be  no  question,  in- 
deed, but  his  having  sought  an  asylum  at  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island  had  wounded  the  Siamese  pride 
exceedingly,  and  given  rise  to  much  irritation. 

It  was  remarkable  that  neither  at  this,  or  any 
subsequent  conference,  was  our  right  in  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island,  or  the  right  of  the  Rajali  of 
Quedah  to  dismember  his  fief,  questioned.  This 
possession  was  obtained  by  us  in  a  period  of 
great  weakness  and  anarchy  on  the  part  of  the 
Siamese  Government,   and   when   its    tributary 


246  £MBASSY   TO   SIAM 

States  had  rendered  themselves  nearly  independ- 
ent. Six-and-thurty  years  undisputed  occupancy 
may  be  considered  as  having  given  us  a  strong 
prescriptive  claim  to  it;  but  still  the  Siamese 
Court  could  not  be  unaware  of  our  defective 
title,  or. of  the  legal  incapacity  of  the  Malayan 
chief,  then  as  now  a  tributary,  to  alienate  a  por- 
tion of  his  territory.  Its  silence,  therefOTe,  could 
only  be  accounted  for  by  its  fears,  which  pru- 
dently induced  it  to  abstain  from  making  a  claim 
which  it  had  not  the  power  to  enforce.  This 
is  corroborated  by  what  took  place  afterwards, 
with  respect  to  the  quit-rent  which  had  been 
paid  for  the  island  to  the  Meiay  prince.  The 
Siamese,  upon  taking  possession  of  Quedah,  laid 
claim  to  this;  but,  upon  its  being  once  disallowed, 
it  was  never  afterwards  renewed. 

The  Prah-klang  gave,  last  night,  a  formal  au- 
dience to  the  Cochin  Chinese  Ambassadors.  As 
always  happened  upon  such  occasions,  we  saw  the 
whole  ceremony  from  our  windows.  The  Am- 
bassadors landed  at  the  wharf  near  our  house,  be- 
tween nine  and  ten  o'clock  at  night,  and  walked 
up  the  short  avenue  to  the  Prah-kkng's  house, 
which  was  lined  on  both  sides  with  torches  in 
compliment  to  them.  The  present,  consisting  of 
two  large  cases  of  silk,  went  before ;  then  came 
the  Ambassadors,  four  in  number,  moving  with 
that  slow,  measured,  and  solemn  step  which  with 
us  is  confined  to  funeral  processions,  but  which 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  247 

the  Chinese^  and  the  nations  who  imitate  them, 
consider  so  peculiarly  dignified  upon  all  occasions. 
They  were  themselves  dressed  in  long  silk  robes, 
and  wore  caps  of  ceremony.  They  were  preceded 
by  four  men,  each  carrying  a  sword  in  one  hand, 
and  a  flambeau  in  the  other.  These  persons  wore 
a  frock  of  scarlet  broad-doth,  and  had  caps  on 
their  heads  with  a  plume  of  cock*s  feathers  at  the 
top.  They  were,  in  fact,  the  first  specimens  that 
we  had  seen  of  Cochin  Chinese  soldiers.  The 
Prah-klang  received  his  visitors  with  much  for- 
mality. He  sat  on  a  velvet  cushion  at  the  upper 
end  of  the  hall,  surrounded  by  all  the  inferior 
chiefs  of  his  department.  The  Ambassadors  on 
their  part  seemed,  as  far  as  could  be  observed,  to 
conduct  themselves  with  dignity.  The  first  Am- 
bassador, as  soon  as  he  entered,  demanded  with  a 
motion  of  his  hand  the  place  intended  for  him ; 
and  when  it  was  pointed  out,  assumed  it,  after 
making  a  slight  bow  to  the  Prah-klang,  which 
the  latter  did  not  return.  The  others  followed  his 
example.  There  were  no  prostrations  after  the 
Siamese  fashion,  nor  even  such  as  a  Cochin  Chi- 
nese would  have  performed  to  a  superior  of  his 
own  nation. 

May  28. — In  one  of  my  excursions  yesterday, 
being  near  the  residence  of  the  Catholic  Bishop  of 
Siam,  I  took  the  opportunity  of  paying  him  a 
visit.  The  extreme  jealousy  with  which  all  stran- 
gers, and  especially  Europeans,  are  watched  in 


248  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

Siam,  had  rendered  this,  on  my  part,  a  matt^* 
of  difficulty ;  lior  was  it  at  any  time  possible  for 
the  Bishop  to  visit  us,  so  guarded  was  the  conduct 
which  he  found  it  necessary^  upon  all  such  occa- 
sions, to  observe.  I  had  a  long  and  interesting 
conversation  with  this  dignitary,  who  is  a  native 
of  Avignon,  and  whose  titular  dignity  is  Bishop 
of  Sozopolis.  He  had  lived  either  in  Siam  or 
Cochin  China  for  the  long  period  of  thirty-four 
years,  having  left  France  the  year  before  the  Re^ 
volution ;  of  the  wonderful  scenes  of  which,  as 
well  as  the  changes  to  which  they  have  given  rise, 
he  scarcely  knew  any  thing  but  by  rumour.  He 
had  passed  his  long  sojourn  in  a  singular  manner 
for  an  educated  European,  and,  above  all,  for  a 
sprightly  Frenchman,  which  the  Bishop  still  was, 
notwithstanding  that  he  bordered  on  sixty,  and 
had  passed  the  prime  of  life  under  circumstances 
apparently  so  depressing.  He  has  lived  for  years 
together  without  an  European  within  a  thousand 
miles  of  him — without  scarcely  ever  hearing  the 
accents  of  his  native  language ;  and  finally,  among 
a  race  of  barbarians,  who  treat  the  followers  of 
the  religion  of  which  he  is  the  pastor,  with  con- 
tumely. 

M.  Sozopolis  is  of  the  order  of  Dominicans, 
and  the  successor  of  the  first  Bishop  appointed  for 
Siam  by  the  See  of  Rome,  as  early  as  the  year 
16599  and  who  arrived  in  the  country  about  three 
years  thereafter.     His  spiritual  authority  extends 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  249 

over  all  the  Catholic  Christians  of  Siam  and  the 
Malay  peninsula.  Those  of  Siam  alone  amount 
to  three  thousand,  of  whom  a  thousand  are  at 
the  capital.  These  are  the  whole  fruits  of  a  hun- 
dred and  sixty  years'  labour,  not  to  mention  the 
earlier  efforts  of  the  Portuguese,  and  the  oc*ea- 
sional  assistance  of  the  Jesuits. 

The  Bishop  informed  us  that  there  were  ihree 
Christian  churches  in  the  town  of  Bang-kok— * 
Santa-Cruz,  Santa-Anna,  and  Santa-Asomption. 
The  last  is  a  new  church  close  to  the  residence  of 
the  Bishop,  and  which,  for  want  of  funds,  is  not 
yet  finished.  We  now  visited  it ;  it  had  a  sorry 
appearance  indeed,  in  comparison  to  the  gorgeous 
temples  of  the  heathen.  At  the  old  capital,  I 
am  told,  is  still  standing  the  chapel  which  was 
built  by  the  Greek  adventurer,  Constantine  Phaul- 
con.  It  is  said  to  be  a  handsome  piece  of  archi- 
tecture, and  the  Siamese,  being  of  this  opinion, 
have  converted  it  into  a  temple  of  Buddh. 

The  person  whom  the  Bishop  sent  with  us  to 
point  out  the  new  church  was  a  native  Christian 
priest,  who  had  lived  long  in  the  Malay  countries, 
and  spoke  the  language  with  perfect  fluency.  The 
restraint  of  an  interpreter  being  removed,  he  spoke 
upon  various  points  with  great  freedom.  He 
praised  the  facility  with  which  converts  were 
made  at  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  and  assured  us 
that  in  Siam  the  Christian  priests  seldom  or  ever 
made  a  proselyte,  for  the  Siamese  were  a  very 


250  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

untractable  people  in  this  respect  We  wished  to 
know  what  objections  the  Siamese  had  against  the 
Catholic  religion.  His  reply  was,  "  They  consider 
it  too  difficult  and  troublesome  a  road  to  Hea- 
ven,"— an  observation  which  perfectly  agrees  with 
the  religious  apathy  and  loose  morality  of  the 
Siamese. 

On  our  return  from  the  visit  to  the  new  church 
we  renewed  our  conversation  with  the  Bishop,  and 
asked  whether  the  accounts  we  had  received  c^ 
several  Christians  having  adopted  the  Buddhist 
religion  and  become  Talapoins,  were  correct.  He 
assured  us  that  the  statement  we  had  received 
was  much  exaggerated,  and  that  he  knew  but  of 
one  example  of  a  Christian  becoming  a  Talapoin, 
which  was  that  of  a  dissipated  youth,  who  had 
fallen  upon  this  easy  means  of  evading  the  de- 
mands of  his  Christian  creditors.  The  Bishop 
drew  an  animated  picture  of  the  Siamese  charac- 
ter. He  said  that  they  were  firmly  of  opinion 
that  they  w^e  the  first  people  on  earth,  and  that 
they  treated  with  ridicule  the  notion  of  having 
any  equal,  especially  among  European  nations. 
This,  however,  he  observed,  did  not  prevent  them 
from  entertaining,  in  secret,  very  serious  appre- 
hensions of  the  power  of  the  English.  As  to  the 
French,  he  said,  they  were  not  known  to  the 
Siamese  of  the  present  day;  and  that  the  con- 
nexion which  once  subsisted,  was  now  remember- 
ed only  as  a  tale  of  other  times. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  251 

May  25. — I  had  another  long  conference  last 
night  with  the  Prah-ldang,  the  results  of  which,  I 
am  sorry  to  say,  were  far  from  satisfactory.  When 
the  English  ship  in  the  river  had  fii^t  arrived,  an 
assurance  was  given  that  the  import  duty  would 
be  reduced  from  eight  to  six  per  cent,  and  that  she 
should  be  allowed  to  dispose  of  her  cargo  freely, 
without  any  of  the  usual  interference  on  the  part 
of  the  officers  of  Government.  This  arrangement 
having  been  most  completely  evaded,  and  in  a 
manner  the  most  irksome  and  disingenuous,  it  be- 
came necessary  to  bring  the  matter  to  the  notice 
of  the  Minister.  In  explanation,  it  was  pretended 
that  the  reduction  of  duties  should  take  place  only 
when  the  English  ships  frequenting  Siam  should 
amount  to  five  in  number,  as  first  stated.  As  to 
the  unrestricted  trade,  it  was  constantly  insisted 
upon  that  this  was  granted,  but  that  the  goods 
were  so  high  in  price  that  no  one  would  buy. 
The  fact  was^  as  I  had  been  well  informed,  that 
a  secret  order  had  been  issued  by  the  Prah-klang, 
forbidding  all  persons  to  hold  any  dealings  with 
the  English  vessel,  under  pain  of  fine  or  corporal 
punishment.  The  determinatibn,  indeed,  of  the 
party  who  profited  by  it  to  maintain  their  mono- 
poly was  resolutely  taken,  and  it  seemed  almost  in 
vain  to  struggle  against  it.  On  this  question  they 
finally  informed  us,  that  the  reply  to  the  letter  of 
the  Govemor-general  would  be  ready  for  delivery 
on  the  26th. 


252  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  conference  was 
taken  up  in  discussing  the  affair  of  Quedah.  The 
Prah-klang  said  that  the  'Governor  of  Ligor  had 
been  ordered  to  Court  to  render  an  account  of  his 
proceedings  in  that  country.  He  observed,  how- 
ever, that  a  dispatch  had  been  received  from  him 
yesterday,  and  that  all  seemed  to  be  well,  as  he 
represented  the  country  in  a  state  of  perfect  tran- 
quillity, and  a  friendly  intercourse  going  on  with 
Priiice  of  Wales's  Island.  He  insisted,  at  the  same 
time,  that  it  was  still  necessary  for  the  Rajah  of 
Quedah  to  appear  at  the  Court  to  vindicate  him- 
self. The  words  which  he  made  use  of,  as  trans- 
lated to  me,  were  nearly  as  follow.  "  The  Gro- 
vemor  of  Ligor  and  the  Rajah  of  Quedah  are 
alike  slaves  of  the  King  of  Siam ;  and  if  a  dis- 
pute arise  between  them,  they  must  both  repair 
to  the  Court  to  have  the  matter  settled.  The 
King  of  Quedah  is  not  a  child,  he  knows  the 
customs  of  the  kingdom,  and  if  he  wishes  to 
be  restored  to  his  country,  he  must  understand 
the  necessity  of  appearing  in  the  presence." 
Considering  the  threatening  language  which  the 
Chief  of  Ligor  had  used  towards  the  Gover- 
nor of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island  when  he  de- 
manded the  delivery  of  the  King  of  Quedah's 
person,  I  thought  it  my  duty  to  make  a  firm 
and  distinct  reply  to  this  observation ;  and 
stated,  that  if  the  King  of  Quedah  were  of 
his  own   free  will  disposed    to   ctome   to   Siam, 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA. 

the  British  Government  would  put  no  obstacle 
in  his  way;  but  that  if  otherwise,  no  power 
should  remove  him,  since  he  had  thrown  him- 
self upon  our  hospitality.  The  Prah-klang  ask- 
ed whether  if  the  King  of  Siam  addressed  a 
letter  to  the  Governor-general,  requesting  him 
to  seize  the  King  of  Quedah,  and  send  him 
forcibly  to  Siam,  such  request  would  be  com- 
plied with.  I  readily  assured  him  that  it  would 
not;  and  farther  explained  that  such  request 
would  not  be  considered  friendly,  as  it  would 
necessarily  imply  a  belief  that  we  were  capable 
of  violating  the  laws  of  hospitality,  by  deliver- 
ing up  an  old  friend  who  had  sought  an  asy- 
lum amongst  us. 

The  point  of  getting  possession  of  the  per- 
son of  the  Rajah  of  Quedah  seemed  one  upon 
which  the  Siamese  Court  was  fully  bent,  and 
in  which  they  believed  their  honour  or  charac- 
ter implicated.  The  restoration  of  this  prince 
bdng  a  point  of  considerable  moment  to  us,  I 
proposed,  as  an  easy  means  of  settling  the  quarrel 
between  him  sCnd  the  Rajah  of  Ligor,  the  send- 
ing of  a  Siamese  commissioner,  superior  in  rank 
to  both  parties,  to  the  spot,  to  inquire  into  and 
adjust  the  afiair.  This  proposition,  which  the 
Siamese  imagined  would  have  brought  their  au- 
thority within  the  influence  of  our  power,  owing 
to  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Quedah  territories 
to  ours,  was  without  hes]ta;tion  rejected.      The 


254)  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

Prah-klang  feigned  to  understand  that  the  pro- 
posal amounted  to  sending  a  Siamese  commis- 
sioner into  the  British  territories  there  to  make 
the  inquiry;  and  he  said,  that  he  was  con- 
vinced that  if  two  tributaries  of  the  British 
Government  were  to  quarrel,  and  one  of  them 
were  to  fly  to  a  foreign  power  for  protection, 
we  should  never  think  of  deputing  a  ocmimis- 
sioner  into  the  territory  of  such  foreign  power 
to  investigate  the  quarrel ;  but  on  the  contrary, 
that  we  should  direct  the  parties  to  repair  to 
the  seat  of  Gtovemment,  for  the  purpose  of  hav- 
ing the  matter  adjusted.  I  explained  the  real 
nature  of  the  proposal  which  I  had  made,  but 
the  Frah-klang  still  insisted  that  it  was  contrary 
to  the  customs  of  the  country,  and  that  the 
King  wished  to  look  into  all  matters  of  this 
kind  "  with  his  own  eyes,"  which  was  the  ex- 
pression he  made  use  of. 

The  Prah-klang,  after  this,  inquired  whether 
the  King  of  Quedah  exercised  sovereign  autho- 
rity over  his  own  followers,  who  had  fled  along 
with  him  to  Prince  of  Wales's  Island.  The 
reply  to  this  was,  that  no  foreigner  whatever 
could  exercise  such  an  authority  within  a  Bri- 
tish settlement,  as  all  were  equally  under  the 
protection,  and  equally  am^iable  to  the  local 
laws.  The  Siamese  Minister  observed,  that  such 
a  state  of  things  must  be  extremely  inconve- 
nient to  the    Rajah   of  Quedah,   and    that  he 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  255 

wondered  how  he  continued  to  reside  at  Prince 
of  Wales's  Island,  instead  of  coming  to  seek 
redress  from  the  King.  In  a  letter  which  I 
had  sent  a  few  nights  ago  from  the  Rajah  of 
Quedah,  this  prince  had  thrown  himself  upon 
the  mercy  of  the  King  of  Siam,  and  petitioned 
for  his  restoration  to  the  throne  as  an  act  of 
grace.  The  Prah-klang,  in  reference  to  it,  now 
observed :  **  The  Rajah  of  Quedah  himself  has 
acknowledged  his  fault,  and  therefore  why  does 
he  not  repair  at  once  to  the  Court  and  ask  for- 
giveness ?" 

The  language  which  I  was  compelled  to  use 
at  this  interview  was  such  as  a  Siamese  Minis- 
ter could  not  have  been  much  accustomed  to 
listen  to,  and  such,  of  course,  as  must  have  been 
offensive  to  his  pride.  The  reception  given  by 
our  Government  to  the  King  of  Quedah,  and 
our  refusal  to  deliver  him  up,  wounded  the 
vanity  of  the  Siamese;  and  there  can  be  no 
doubt  but  that  this  had  throughout  a  prejudicial 
influence  upon  the  main  objects  of  the  Mission, 
although  these,  indeed,  might  not  have  been 
attainable  without  such  obstacle. 

May  27. — Ko-chai-sahak  waited  upon  us  yes- 
terday, bringing  with  him,  for  our  satisfaction, 
a^  copy  of  the  dispatch  from  the  Governor  of 
Ligor,  referred  to  in  the  conference  of  the 
S4th.  The  following  is  nearly  a  literal  trans- 
lation of  this  specimen  of  Siamese  diplomacy. 


256  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

which  appears  to  have  been  got  up  with  con- 
siderable art. 

'^  The  army  of  Quedah  is  now  at  rest,  and 
there  is  no  misunderstanding  with  the  people 
of  Penang.  The  (Tovemor  of  that  place  has 
given,  according  to  former  custom,  two  small 
vessels  of  war,  to  guard  the  coasts  against  pi* 
rates.  The  commander  of  one  of  these  vessels 
came  to  me,  and  a  friendly  intercourse  took  place 
between  us.  The  Governor  of  Penang  and  the 
English  are  satisfied  that  the  Siamese  army  in- 
tend them  no  mischief,  and  tlie  Gk>vemor  allows 
the  Siamese  to  frequent  the  island  as  hereto- 
fore. The  commander  of  one  of  the  vessels  of 
war  above  alluded  to,  retiuned  a  second  time 
with  three  English  officers  of  consideration  along 
with  him.  These  stated,  that  two  vessels,  loaded 
with  rice,  had  brought  a  letter  from  the  Go- 
vernor of  Bengal  to  the  Grovemor  of  Penang, 
directing  him  to  consider  Quedah  as  a  tributary 
of  Siam,  and  prohibiting  him  from  interfering. 

**  The  people  of  the  island  Langkawi  having 
rebelled,  the  army  went  thither,  beat  them,  and 
obtained  possession.  I  sent  news  of  this  to  Pe- 
nang, accusing  the  King  of  Quedah  of  having 
stirred  up  the  Malays  of  Langkawi  to  rebellion. 
The  Governor  of  Penang  replied,  saying,  that 
the  English  would  not  encourage  the  Rajah  of 
Quedah,  contrary  to  the  interests  of  the  Great 
King,  and  that  they  woqld  by  no  means  inter- 


AKO   COCHIN   CHINA.  257 

fere  in  the  affairs  of  Langkawi  or  the  other  de- 
pendencies of  Quedah,  nor  permit  the  King  of 
Quedah  to  send  out  stores  or  ammunition  to 
assist  the  rebels  of  Langkawi. 

^^  The  different  traders  who  come  to  Quedah 
represent  the  country  now  as  in  a  state  of  greater 
prosperity  than  at*  any  former  period,  and  they 
describe  the  people  of  Penang  as  saying  among 
themselves  that  small  boats,  with  four  or  five 
men,  can  now  go  over  to  Quedah  with  safety, 
for  there  is  no  longer  any  fear  of  pirates.  News 
from  the  same  place  also  states,  that  the  Tangku 
Abdullah,  son  of  the  Rajah  of  Quedah,  took  a 
Malay  woman  and  offered  her  for  sale  as  a 
slave.  The  woman  made  her  complaint  in  the 
court  of  justice.  The  Governor  of  Penang  re» 
plied,  ^  that  if  the  Prince  did  so  again,  he  should 
be  considered  an  offender.*  A  great  number  of 
the  slaves  of  the  King  of  Quedah  have  be- 
come free  since  they  came  to  Pulo  Penang. 
The  King  had  punished  some  slaves.  This 
came  to  the  knowledge  of  the  Governor,  who 
sent  word  to  the  King  to  say,  ^  That  he  had 
sought  protection  under  the  English  flag,  and 
that  he  must  submit  to  the  customs  of  the 
English,  which  did  not  admit  of  individuals 
taking  the  law  into  their  own  hands,  and  that 
if  he  had  any  grievance,  he  must  seek  redress  in 
a  court  of  justice.*- 

The  evident  object  of  sending  this  letter  to 

VOL.  I.  8 


258  EMBASSY  TO   SIAU 

US,  was  to  convince  us  that  every  thing  was 
right,  and  that  perhaps  we'  were  no  losers  in 
having  the  Siamese  for  our  neighbours  instead  of 
the  Malays. 

Last  night,  at  the  usual  hour,  I  had  another 
and  my  final  public  interview  with  the  Prali- 
klang,    which  was   as  unsatisfactory  as  any  of 
those  which  preceded  it.     One  of  the  principal 
objects  of  it  was,  to  read  to  me  a  draft  of  the 
reply  intended  to  the  letter  of  the  Governor- 
general.      With    their    wonted    procrastinati(»i» 
however,  the  draft  was  not  ready,  but  was  pro- 
mised to  be  produced  during  the  course  of  the 
day.     I  took  this  last  opportunity  of  recapitu- 
lating  the  arguments   which   I   had    already  so 
often  made   use  of  in  favour  of  an  unshackled 
trade;  but  as  I  was  by  this   time  fully  aware 
of  the  strong  interest  which   militated   agidnst 
them,  I  was  not  surprised  that  they  were  re- 
peated to  little  purpose.       I   dwelt  particularly 
upon  the  favourable  treatment  which    Siamese 
vessels  had   received   in  our  ports.      This   waa 
acknowledged,  and  nothing  very  reasonable  could 
be  said  against  what  was  urged,  the  constant 
answer  being  the  difficulty  of  changing  the  long 
established  usages  of    the  country.      The  pro- 
posal of  introducing  us  to  a  second  audience  of 
the  King  was  now  altogether  abandoned,  with- 
out any  cause  being  assigned  for  it;  but  I  have 
reason  to  believe  that  the  Prah-klang  and  his 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  259 

party  apprehended,  that  from  the  fi?eedom  of 
the  communications  which  had .  ah-eady  been 
made  on  the  subject  of  the  affiur  of  Quedah, 
the  interview  tmight  have  been  attended  with 
disclosures  unfavourable  to  their  own  peculiar 
views. 

Mixy^  28. — At  three  o'clock  yesterday  afternoon, 
messengers  came  to  inform  us,  that  a  draft  of  the 
letter  to  the  (Jovernor-general  was  now  ready  for 
our  inspection.  I  proceeded  accordingly  to  the 
house  of  the  Prah-klang.  The  Chief  was  himself 
absent,  under  pretext  of  indisposition;  but  his 
deputy,  Pia  Pipat-kosa,  the  venerable  old  Chief* 
who  had  come  on  board  to  receive  the  letter 
of  the  Gk>vemor-general,  but  who  had  not  been 
present  at  any  of  the  former  conferences,  re- 
ceived us  in -his ;. stead.  ..Along,  with  him  was 
Pia  Raja  Chula,  the  head,  of  the  Mohammedan 
settlers,  who  had  also  not  been  present  at  any 
of  the  former  conferences.  Two  drafts  of  let- 
ters, in  answer  to  that  of  the  Governor-general, 
were  exhibited.  One  of  these  was  in  the  name 
of  the  Prah-klang,  and  addressed  directly  to  the 
Governor-general;  and  the  other  was  from  his 
deputy,  addressed  to  the  Secretary  to  Govern- 
ment.  The  purport  of  both  was  the  same,  and 
the  cause  of  preparing  the  two  was  to  afibrd 
us  an  opportunity  of  selecting  whichever  we 
might  prefer.  A  direct  address  from,  the  King 
to  the  G^vemor-general  had  beai  declared  con- 

s  2 


260  EMBASSY   TO   SIAH 

trary  to  the  etiquette  of  the  Court ;  and  on  the 
other  hand,  I  had  caused  it  to  be  made  known, 
at  an  early  period,  that  no  direct  address  bom 
a  Minister  to  the  Governor-general  would  be  re- 
ceived. The  great  object  which  the  Prah-klang, 
although  but  a  Minister  of  inferior  rank,  had  in 
view,  was  to  place  himself  upon  an  equality  of 
station  with  the  Governor-general  of  India.  This 
pretension  was  of  course  to  be  discouraged ;  and 
the  draft  which  was  in  his  name  was  at  once 
rejected,  and  the  other  approved.  The  preten- 
sions which  were  thus  set  up  were  indeed  suffi- 
ciently absurd,  and  yet  certainly  less  ridiculous 
than  those  made  by  the  Burman  Ministers,  who, 
when  preparing  the  draft  of  a  letter  to  the  Go- 
vernor-general in  1810,  wished  to  style  the  Eong 
of  England  a  tributary  of  his  Burman  Majesty ! 

A  third  document  was  then  exhibited,  which 
was  a  letter  from  Pia  Raja  Chula,  the  Super- 
intendent of  the  Customs,  addressed  to  myself; 
and  this  contained  such  concessions  to  our  trade 
as  the  Siamese  Court  had  resolved  to  grant  It 
stipulated  for  an  unlimited  admission  of  British 
ships  into  the  port  of  Bang-kok,  and  for  the 
reduction  of  the  present  import  duty  of  eight 
per  cent,  to  six,  as  soon  as  the  annual  number 
of  vessels  arriving  should  amount  to  five.  The 
document  in  its  present  form,  I  concluded,  was 
an  ultimatum,  and  I  had  no: intention  of  offer- 
ing any  objection  to  it ;  but  the  Siamese  officers 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  261 

having  requested  to  know  whether  I  had  any 
alteration  to  propose,  I  requested  that  the  sti- 
pulation for  the  reduction  of  duties  might  not 
be  contingent  upon  the  number  of  ships  arriving, 
but  unconditional.  This  proposition,  very  unex- 
pectedly on  my  part,  gave  rise  to  a  discussion  of 
two  hours*  continuance.  They  earnestly  request- 
ed that  I  would  be  satisfied  with  a  verbal  as- 
surance to  the  effect  which  I  required ;  but  this, 
with  the  knowledge  which  I  now  had  of  Siamese 
assurances,  as  well  as  the  character  of  the  proposal 
itself,  I  necessarily  declined. 

The  person  who  took  the  most  active  share  in 
this  day's  conversation,  was  Pia  Raja  Chula,  the. 
chief  of  the  Mohammedan  settlers,  from  the  west 
of  India.  This  class  of  persons,  possessing  a  large 
share  of  the  characteristic  disposition  of  the  na- 
tives of  Hindustan  for  intrigue,  have  considerable 
influence,  and  in  our  affair  it  was  certainly  ex- 
ercised prejudicially.  They  subsist  upon  "the  per- 
quisites and  plunder  of  the  foreign  trade ;  and  to 
have  placed  this  upon  a  fair  and  equitable  footings 
would  have  deprived  them  of  a  considerable  share 
of  their  emoluments.  Their  friendship,  therefore, 
was  not  to  be  expected. 

June  6. — The  letter  of  the  Governor-general 
was  ready  on  the  third  instant,  but  I  heard  no- 
thing of  the  commercial  document  until  last 
night,  when  it  was  reported  to  me  to  be  ready, 
and  I  had  another  interview  with  the  Siamese 


262  EMBASSY   TO   8IAM 

chiefs  for  the  purpose  of  hearing  it  read.  It 
was  translated  passage  by  passage  by  oitr  own 
interpreter,  and  I  was  surprised  to  find  the 
whole  document  much  altered.  It  now  stipu- 
lated for  no  reduction  of  duties  in  any  case, 
but  instead  of  it  there  was  an  express  stipula* 
tion  for  that  free  and  unrestrained  trade  whidi 
I  had  all  along  struggled  for.  I  of  course  ao^ 
cepted  this  document  at  once,  without  offmng 
any  comment  upon  it. 

June  7. — In  the  course  of  this  forenoon,  our 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  handsome  and  gay 
procession  passing  down  the  river  towards  one  of 
the  temples:  it  consisted  of  four  magnificent 
gilded  barges,  each  pulled  by  twenty-four  rowers 
in  scarlet  dresses.  The  vessels  were  decked  with 
royal  umbrellas  and  banners,  pointing  out  that 
they  had  come  from  the  Palace ;  and  from  the 
gay  appearance  of  the  procession,  we  expected  to 
hear  of  some  Prince  or  Princess  going  upon  an 
excursion  of  pleasure.  We  were  therefore  sur- 
prised to.  find,  that  the  boats  conveyed  the  sordes 
of  the  body  of  the  Princess,  who  had  died  on 
the  15th  of  the  epidemic  cholera^  and  of  which 
a  party  of  her  friends  were  proceeding  in  charge, 
for  the  purpose  of  having  them  consumed  on  a 
funeral  pile  at  one  of  the  temples. 

June  9. — Ever  since  the  arrival  of  the  Cochin 
Chinese  Ambassadors,  I  was  anxious  to  form  an 
acquaintance  with  them,  believing  that  this  niight 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA. 

possibly  be  of  use  as  an  introduction  when  we 
should  arrive  in  their  country.  £very  thing  that 
bears  a  political  character,  however,  it  must  be 
again  repeated,  is  received  in  Siam  with  so  jea- 
lous a  suspicion,  that  I  was  aware  that  to  succeed 
in  this  was  a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty.  Both 
the  British  and  Cochin  Chinese  Missions  were, 
in  fact,  strictly  watched.  Yesterday  I  sent  one 
of  our  interpreters  to  make  some  preparatory  in- 
quiries at  the  residence  of  the  Cochin  Chinese 
Envoys.  He  found  it  surrounded  by  Siamese 
guards,  and  inaccessible.  His  inquiries  were  an- 
swered with  rudeness  or  incivility,  and  he  was 
in  some  danger  of  being  taken  into  custody  as 
a  spy.  It  was  necessary,  therefore,  at  once  to 
desist  from  all  farther  attempts.  The  Portuguese 
Consul  informed  me,  that  he  had  requested  per- 
mission of  the  Prah-klang  to  pay  a  visit  to  the 
Cochin  Chinese  Ambassadors,  .and  that  he  had 
received  a  pointed  refusal. 

June  12. — The  Cochin  Chinese  Ambassadors 
left  Bang-kok  yesterday  afternoon,  on  their  re- 
turn to  their  own  country.  We  saw  them  drop 
down  the  river  quietly  in  the  small  junks  which 
had  conveyed  them  to  Siam,  and  no  ceremony 
whatever  attended  their  departure. 

In  tlie  course  of  the  evening,  the  reply  to  the 
Grovernor-general's  letter,  and  the  commercial  do- 
cument, were  finally  brought  to  us.  In  compli- 
ment to  them,  a  ladder  was  put  up  against  the 


264  EMBASSY  TO  SiAM 

end  of  the  house,  and  in  this  manner  they  were 
conveyed  to  the  apartment  where  we  received 
thera.  The  originals  of  both  were  in  the  Siamese 
language,  but  they  were  accompanied  by  Portu- 
guese translations,  which  last  only  were  open  for 
inspection, — the  former  being  inclosed  in  silk  en- 
velopes, duly  sealed,  and  deposited  in  large  red 
lacquered  bowls,  according  to  the  custom  of  the 
country.  A  request  to  have  copies  of  the  ori- 
ginals in  Siamese  was  refused,  most  probably 
under  an  apprehension  that  on  examination  this 
might  give  rise  to  some  unpleasant  discussion 
respecting  the  phraseology  made  use  of.  It  was 
necessary  to  open  the  silk  envelopes  to  ascertain 
the  true  contents  of  the  original  letters.  This 
was  accordingly  done,  and  translations  having 
been  effected,  I  had  the  mortification  to  discover 
that  the  pledge  of  unrestrained  trade,  or,  as  it 
was  expressed  in  the  original  draft,  "free  per- 
mission to  British  merchants  to  buy  and  sell  with 
the  merchants  of  Siam,**  was  entirely  omitted,  and 
an  ominous  one  of  assistance  from  the  Superin- 
tendent of  Customs  substituted  for  it.  After  the 
struggles  I  had  already  made,  I  felt  that  farther 
remonstrance  would  be  useless,  and  might  even, 
in  the  present  state  of  things,  be  productive  of 
such  additional  irritation,  as  might  prejudice  our 
future  prospects.  Under  this  impression,  I  for- 
bore from  noticing  the  deception  which  had  been 
practised  in  the  terms  which  it  well  merited. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  265 

The  answer  to  the  letter  of  the  Governor-ge- 
naraU  as  translated  through  the  medium  of  the 
Malay,  was  as  follows : — 

''  The  letter  of  Pay  a  PipatrRacha  iQalat  Kosa/ 
second  Prah-klang  at  the  Court  of  Prah  Maha 
Nakon  Si-Ayuthia,  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Go- 
vernment g£  Bengal,  makes  known  to  him  that 
the  Governor  of  Bengal  sent  a  letter  by  Mr,  Craw- 
furd,  the  subject  of  which  was  to.  explain  that 
England  has  heen  at  peace  with  all  the  nations 
of  Europe  for  a  long  time,  and  that  the  Governor 
of  Bengal*  is  anxious  to  be  in  friendship  with 
the  kingdom  of  Siam,  and  to  increase  it  beyond 
the  friendship  of  other  times ;  and  farther,  that  he 
wishes  that  the  merchants  of  Siam  should  trade  to 
English  ports,  whether  in  Europe  or  in  other  parts 
of  the  world ;  and  that  the  English  should  hf^ve 
the  same  liberty  to  frequent  this  kingdom ;  and 
moreover,  that  as  the  imposts  on  trade  in  Siam 
are  high,  he  requests  the  King  of  Siam  would 
make  them  lighter,  to  the  end  that  by  this  means 
English  merchants  might  be  encouraged  to  ex- 
tend their  trade  in  Siam.  Mr.  Crawfurd  having 
come  as  the  Envoy  from  the  Governor  of  Bengal 
to  offer  presents  to  his  Majesty,  and  representing 
the  person  of  the  Governor  of  Bengal,  &c.  the 

*  In  the  original,  the  Governor-general  is  styled  Chao  Moang 
Bangkala,  which  may  be  translated  Lord  of  the  kingdom  or  prin* 
cq»lity  of  BengaL  ThiA  title,  Chao  Muang»  is  applied  by  th« 
Siamese  to  the  governors  of  great  provinces,  as  well  as  to  the 
dependent  princes  of  Lao. 


266  EMBASSY   TO  glAM 

Chao  Pia  Prah-klang,  first  Minister  in  this  de- 
partmenty  gave  him  all  assistance,  and  introduced 
him  to  his  Majesty's  presence,  with  the  letter  and 
offerings  of  the  Governor  of  Bengal,  and  explained 
the  contents  of  the  said  letter  fully  to  his  Mi^ty. 
His  Majesty  on  this  caused  it  to  be  distinctly 
made  known  to  his  grandees  of  every  rank,  that 
the  Governor  of  Bengal,  with  good-wiU,  had 
chosen  Mr.  Crawfurd  to  convey  offer%ng9  to  his 
Majesty,  having  a  desire  to  strengthen  the  ex- 
isting friendship,  and  farther  to  increase  it ;  and, 
in  consequence  of  that,  that  merchants  might  be 
encouraged  to  resort  with  their  ships  to  the  king* 
dom.  His  Majesty  was  much  gratified  at  all 
this;  and,  in  regard  to  the  imposts  upon  trade, 
Mr.  Crawfurd  was  directed  by  his  Majesty  to 
confer  with  the  principal  officers  connected  with 
this  department,  according  to  custom.  His  Ma* 
jesty  has  ordered  the  officers  in  charge  of  the 
royal  magazines  to  return  presents  to  the  Gro* 
vemor  of  Bengal  as  follows : — ^Ten  elephants' 
teeth,  weighing  two  piculs  ;  eagle-wood,  two  pi- 
culs ;  benzoin,  two  piculs ;  cardamums,  of  one 
sort,  one  picul ;  of  another,  three  piculs ;  tin, 
fifteen  piculs;  pepper,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
piculs ;  sugar,  one  hundred  piculs ;  and  gamboge, 
five  piculs.  These  presents  have  been  delivered 
to  Mr.  Crawfurd. 

Written  on  Tuesday,  in  the  seventh  month, 
on  the  eight  day  of  the  bright  half  of  the  Moon, 
in  the  year  of  the  Horse.     (26th  May,  1822.) 


AND  COCHIN    CHINA.  867 

The  commercial  document  was  as  follows : — 
"  The  Governor  of  Bengal  commanded  Mr. 
Crawfurd  to  come  to  Siam,  to  open  a  way  to 
friendship  and  commerce,  and  to  request  permis- 
sion for  English  ships  to  trade  to  this  capital, 
buying  and  selling  with  the  merchants  of  Siam, 
and  paying  duties  as  heretofore.  The  Pia  Prah- 
klang,  by  authority  of  his  Majesty,  directs  me,  in 
consequence,  to  express  his  satisfaction  at  the 
eoatents  of  the  letter  of  the  Governor  of  Bengdl, 
and  to  address  a  letter  to  Mr.  Crawfurd  in  the 
form  of  an  agreement,  to  say,  that  if  English 
merchant-ships  come  to  the  port  of  the  capital, 
upon  their  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  they 
shall  be  searched  by  the  Governor  of  Pak-nam, 
and  their  small  arms  and  cannon  landed  according 
to  former  custom,  and  then  that  the  ships  shall 
be  conducted  to  the  capital.  As  soon  as  they 
are  anchored,  the  Superintendent  of  Customs  shall 
afford  all  assistance  in  buying  and  selling  with 
the  merchants  of  Siam,  and  the  duties  and  charges 
shall  not  be  more  than  heretofore,  nor  afterwards 
be  raised.  Let  the  English  merchants  come  to 
Siam  to  sell  and  buy  in  comformity  to  this  agree- 
ment." 

This  letter  of  agreement  is  written  on  Thurs- 
day, in  the  seventh  month,  the  second  day  of  the 
dark  half  of  the  Moon,  in  the  year  of  the  Horse. 
(10th  June,  1822.) 


268  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 


CHAPTER  VII. 

ObBtades  to  European  Trade  in  Siam. — Not  applicable  to 
that  of  the  Chinese. — Ordination  of  Siamese  Prieat8.*-*The 
wild  race  denominated  Ka. — A  Servant  belonging  to  the 
Mission  drowned — Consecration  of  an  image  of  Ghintama. 
—Son  of  the  Minister  initiated  into  the  Priesthood. — ^Visit 
from  a  Portuguese  Christian. — Visit  to  the  Prab-klang. — ^Visit 
from  a  French  Priest. — ^Anecdote  of  a  late  King  of  Siam. — 
Visit  to  the  Prince  Krom-chiat. — Departure  from  Bang-kok. 
— Land  in  dropping  down  the  River. — Colony  of  Peguans. 
— Mouth  of  the  River  and  its  neighbourhood  infSested  bj 
Musquitos. — Ship  crosses  the  Bar  of  the  River. — Descrip- 
tion of  it. — Arrival  at  the  Sichang  Islands — Incidents  there. 

June  21. — Our  business  in  Siam  having  now 
been  brought  to  a  conclusion,  we  should  have 
been  happy  to  have  embraced  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity of  quitting  the  country, — as  well  to  avoid 
the  risk  of  any  collision  with  the  Siamese,  as  to 
avail  ourselves  of  the  most  favourable  season  for 
the  prosecution  of  the  remainder  of  our  under- 
taking,—but  unfortunately  the  result  of  another 
examination  of  the  bar  of  the  River  was  unfa- 
vourable, and  it  was  declared  that  there  was  not 
yet  water  enough  to  enable  the  ship  to  pass  out. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  269 

The  American  ship  sailed  about  this  time,  after 
h&ng  detained  near  six  weeks ;  and  the  com- 
mander, although  he  required  but  a  small  quan- 
tity of  sugar  to  make  up  his  cargo,  and  had 
paid  for  it  in  ready  money,  was  subjected  to 
much  vexation  and  imposition.  The  English 
vessel  from  Calcutta  was  treated  in  the  same 
manner.  The  Chinese,  in  fact,  are  the  only  fo- 
reigners whose  trade  is  upon  a  fair  footing :  they 
are  allowed  to  buy  and  seU  without  any  inoon* 
venient  restriction;  and  fourteen  or  fifteen  of 
their  junks,  which  had  itrrived  from  Penang  and 
Singapore  long  after  the  English  and  American 
vessels,  had  already  disposed  of  their  cargoes, 
although  these  included  at  least  a  hundred  thou- 
sand Spanish  dollars'  worth  of  opium,  an  article 
takick  is  contraband. 

We  had  last  night  a  violent  thunder-storm, 
with  a  heavy  fall  of  rain.  A  celebrated  gang- 
robber,  whose  apprehension  had  cost  the  Siamese 
Government  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and  who 
was  placed  in  charge  of  the  Prah-klang,  took 
this  opportunity  to  effect  his  escape.  The  mode 
in  which  he  accomplished  this,  afforded  some  in- 
sight into  the  character  of  the  servants  of  the 
Siamese  Government.  The  robber  seduced  the 
whole  guard,  and  walked  off  with  them, — thus 
not  only  effecting  his  own  escape,  but  taking 
with  him  an  armed  and  organized  body  of  depre- 
dators. 


270  EMBASSY   TO   SIAK 

June  26. — It  was  now  the  eighdi  month  of 
the  Siamese  year,  which  is  that  set  aside  for  the 
ceremony  of  the  ordination  of  the  TalapQin& 
The  Siamese  were  seen  everywhere  busily  en- 
gaged in  this  important  concern, — ^for  such  it  is, 
whether  viewed  as  a  civil  or  religious  institution. 
To  defray  the  expense  of  ordaining  a  priest,  is 
considered  on  the  part  of  the  wealthy  as  aa  act 
of  piety ;  and  every  person  who  is  able,  is  at 
the  expense  of  ordaining  one  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  his  means.  The  Prah-klang  on  the  pre* 
sent  occasion  ordained  seven ;  which  afforded  us 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  part  of  the  ceremonies. 
The  principal  wife  of  the  Minister,  and  her  hand* 
maids,  had  for  many  days  before  been  busily 
employed  in  dyeing  of  a  yellow  colour,  and  mak- 
ing up,  great  quantities  of  dresses  to  be  present-- 
ed  to  the  Talapoins.  Yesterday  afternoon  a  num- 
ber of  priests  made  their  appearance,  to  whom 
these  dresses  were  distributed.  The  seven  Nen^ 
or  noviciates,  presented  themselves  at  the  same 
time  for  ordination,  with  their  heads  newly 
shaved.  .White  scarfs  (upon  this  occasion,  of 
Bengal  silver-flowered  muslin)  were  thrown  over 
their  shoulders,  and  prayers  and  hymns  were 
chanted  at  great  length.  These  last  did  not  ap« 
pear  to  us  to  differ  from  the  usual  ones,  ex- 
cept in  this  particular,  that  their  monotony  was 
frequently  interrupted  by  loud  and  most  barbar- 
ous  yells,  which  we  did  not   hear  upon  other. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  271 

occasions.  The  principal  portions  of  the  cerer 
mony  were,  however,  performed  at  the  Prah* 
klang's  new  temple,  and  these  we  did  not  wit- 
ness because  the  whole  females  of  the  ChiePs 
family  were  present ;  and  we  thought  it  on  this 
account  a  matter  of  delicacy  to  absent  ourselves, 
although  indeed,  in  points  of  this  nature,  the  Sia^ 
mese  are  not  over-scrupulous. 

Among  the  young  priests  ordained  by  the  Prah« 
klang  on  this  occasion  was  a  Javanese  youth,  one 
of  the  individuals  who  had  been  kidnapped,  as 
I  have  already  mentioned.  I  had  met  this  per* 
son,  a  few  nights  before,  near  the  temple  of  the 
Prah-klang,  after  he  had  made  up  his  mind  to 
diange  his  religion.  He  was  a  native  of  the 
interior  of  Java,  and  had  all  the  docility,  sim^ 
plidty,  and  carelessness  which  are  so  character- 
istic of  the  primitive  inhabitants  of  that  island. 
I  inquired  into  the  motives  of  his  change  of 
religion.  Without  adverting  at  all  to  the  prin- 
ciples of  the  faith  he  had  abandoned,  or  the 
new  one  he  had  adopted,  and  about  which  he 
neither  knew  nor  cared  any  thing,  he  proceeded 
at  coice  with  considerable  vivacity  to  a  detail  of 
the  temporal  immunities  and  advantages  of  the 
Siamese  priesthood — such  as  respect  from  the 
people,  fine  clothes,  abundance  of  food^  and, 
above  all,  a  total  exemption  from  labour.  One 
of  my  interpreters,  a  staunch  Mohammedan,  up- 
braided him  for  his  apostasy  ;  but  he  got  nothing 


272  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

for  his  pains  from  the  apostate  but  to  be  laughed 
at  for  his  own  scruples. 

June  29*— I  had  brought  to  me  to-day  an  in- 
dividual of  the  wild  race  called  Ka.  This  people 
inhabit  the  mountainous  country  lying  between 
Lfao  and  Kamboja,  and  still  preserve  their  rude 
independence.  The  Siamese  make  no  scruple  in 
kidnapping  them  whenever  they  can  find  an  op- 
portunity. In  consequence  of  this  practice,  a 
good  number  of  them  are  to  be  found  in  a  state 
of  slavery  at  the  capital.  My  present  visitor 
had  been  taken  about  three  years  before.  His 
features  differed  strikingly  from  those  of  a  Siam- 
ese, and  so  did  that  of  others  of  his  nation  who 
had  been  pointed  out  to  me  in  my  walks.  In 
intelligence  I  found  him  greatly  superior  to  what 
might  reasonably  have  been  expected. 

July  8. — ^Notwithstanding  the  discouraging  re* 
ports  which  had  been  made  respecting  the  state 
of  the  bar  of  the  River,  we  resolved  to  attempt 
to  cross  it  with  the  next  spring-tides;  and  were 
now  busy  in  making  preparations  with  this  in- 
tention. 

Our  baker,  a  Chinese,  with  one  of  his  coun- 
trymen, was  drowned  last  night  by  the  upsetting 
of  a  boat  within  a  few  yards  of  the  bank  of 
the  River,  and  opposite  to  our  dwelling.  It 
was  a  bright  moonlight  night,  and  assistance  was 
immediately  rendered, — ^for  both  the  Siamese  and 
Chinese,  unlike  the  natives  of  Hindustan,   are 


AND   COCHIN   CHIKA.  273 

Tery  prompt  upon  such  occasions, — ^but  it  was 
ineffectual.  The  bodies  were  picked  up  this  af- 
temoon,  about  five  miles  down  the  stream,  and 
immediately  burned  by  the  Siamese,  according 
to  custom  upon  such  occasions.  It  is,  after  all, 
surprising  to  find  how  few  serious  accidents  take 
place  on  the  Menam :  the  face  of  which  is  covered 
with  boats  night  and  day,  some  of  them  the 
veriest  cockle*shells  that  can  be  imagined,  and 
ofteii  managed  by  old  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren. Numbers  of  them  are  upset,  but  commonly 
without  any  fatal  consequences. 

Juhf  8. — The  Prah-klang  suddenly  made  his 
appearance  yesterday  morning,  in  a  sort  of  work- 
shop close  under  our  windows,  where  the  wood- 
work for  his  new  temple  was  preparing.  The 
carpenters,  as  it  happened,  were  asleep,  or  smok- 
ing segars,  when  they  should  have  been  at  work. 
Six  of  them  received  the  punishment  of  the 
bamboo  on  the  spot,  under  the  personal  direc- 
tion of  this  minister  of  state.  These  symp- 
toms of  patriarchal  government,  however,  are  by 
no  means  so  frequent  in  Siam  as  we  afterwards 
found  them  in  Cochin  China. 

In  the  evening,  the  Prah-klang  was  busy  con- 
secrating a  new  image  of  Gautama.  The  idol, 
which  was  of  brass,  and  gilded,  was  placed  in 
the  centre  of  the  saloon  which  I  have  so  often 
mentioned,  and  had  a  silk  doth  of  gold  tissue 
thrown   over    it.      A   band   of   Talapoins   sur- 

VOL.   I.  T 


274  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

rounded  it,  repeating  their  orisons.  At  certain 
passages  of  these,  a  crowd  of  boys  and  young 
men  in  the  court-yard  raised  horrid  shouts,  seem- 
ingly, to  all  appearance,  more  suited  to  raise 
an  evil  spirit  than  to  invoke  a  god,  as  was  thdr 
ostensible  object.  To  aid  them  in  these  ydls, 
they  forced  their  hands  into  their  sides,  making 
all  the  while  hideous  grimaces.  Fart  of  the 
ceremony  consisted  in  the  priests  passing  round 
from  one  to  another  a  flaming  torch,  each  waving 
it  twice  or  thrice  over  his  head  before  deliver- 
ing it  to  his  neighbour. 

The  eldest  son  of  the  Prah-klang,  the  youth 
whose  tonsure  1  lately  described,  assumed,  within 
the  last  few  days,  the  yellow  garment  of  the 
priesthood,  in  the  character  of  a  Nen^  or  novi- 
ciate, in  confcn'mity  to  the  almost  universal  prac- 
tice of  the  Siamese,  of  whatever  rank.  This 
morning,  between  six  and  seven  o'clock,  we  saw 
him,  for  the  first  time,  going  forth  to  beg,  in  his 
new  character.  He  had  a  large  scrip  upon  his 
back;  but  as  he  was  a  delicate  and  weakly  lad, 
a  servant  followed  him,  to  carry  it  occasionally. 
Fifteen  or  twenty  women,  retainers  of  the  Mi- 
nister, threw  themselves  in  his  way  as  he  was 
going  out,  and  bestowed  charity  upon  him,  in 
the  shape  of  boiled  rice  and  fruit  His  father 
and  mother  appeared  at  the  same  time,  and  now 
made  him  an  obeisance,   for  which,    in  confor- 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  875 

mity  with  the  sacred  character,  he  made  no  ac- 
knowledgment. 

Juh/  10. — I  had,  in  the  course  of  this  fore- 
noon, a  visit  from  a  person  of  singular  modesty 
and  intelligence,  Pascal  Ribeiro  de  Alvergaiias, 
the  descendant   of  a  Portuguese   Christian    of 
Kamboja.     This  gentleman  holds  a  high  Siamese 
title,    and    a  post  of   considerable    importance. 
Considering    bis   means  and    situation,  bis    ac- 
quirements were  remarkable;   fex*  he  not  only 
spoke  and  wrote  the  Siamese,   Kambojan,  and 
Portuguese    languages   with    fadlity,   but    also 
spoke  and  wrote   Latin  with  considerable   pro- 
jMiety.    We  found,  indeed,  a  smattering  of  Latin 
very  frequent  among  the  Portuguese  interpreters 
at  Bang-kok,  but  Senor  Ribeiro  was  the  only 
indiyidual  who  made  any  pretence  to  speak  it 
with  accuracy.     He  informed  us,  that  he  was  the 
descendant  of  a  person  of  the  same  name  whd 
settled  in  Kamboja  in  the  year  1685.     His  lady's 
genealogy,  however,  interested  u«  more  than  his 
own.    She  was  the  lineal  descendant  of  an  Eng- 
lishman of  the  name  of  Charks  Lister,  a  mer- 
chant, who  settled  in  Kamboja  in  the  year  1701, 
and  who  had  acquired  some  reputation  at  the 
Court,  by  making  pretence  to  a  knowledge  in 
medicine.     Charles  Lister  had  come  immediately 
from  Madras,  and  brought  with  him  his  sister. 
This  lady  espoused  a  Portuguese  of  Kamboja, 

T  2 


276  EMBASSY  TO   SIAH 

by  whom  she  had  a  son,  who  took  her  own 
name.  Her  grandson  of  this  naqae  also,  in  the 
revolutions  of  the  kingdom  of  Kamboja,  found 
his  way  to  Siani ;  and  here,  like  his  great  uncle, 
practising  the  healing  art,  rose  to  the  station 
of  Maha-pet,  or  first  physician  to  the  King. 
The  son  of  this  individual,  Cajittous  Lister,  is 
at  present  the  physician,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  minister  and  confidential  adviser  of  the  pre- 
sent King  of  Kamboja.*  His  sister  is  the  wife 
of  the  subject  of  this  short  notice.  Senor  Ribeiro 
favoured  us  with  the  most  authentic  and  satis- 
factory account  which  we  had  yet  obtained  of 
the  late  revolution  and  present  state  of  Kamboja. 

July  12. — I  addressed  a  letter  to-day  to  the 
Minister,  informing  him  of  our  approaching  de- 
piarture,  apd  containing  expressions  of  general 
good-will.  I  received  a  verbal  message  in  return, 
with  a  request  for  an  interview. 

July  13. — I  called  at  the  house  of  the  Minister 
this  afternoon,  and  had  a  long  conference  with 
him.  He  said  he  had  a  message  to  deliver  to 
me  from  the  King,  and  pointed  out  to  three 
cbank  shells  which  lay  before  him.  These,  as  is 
well  known,  are  sounded  by  the  officiating  Brah- 
mins in  performing  the  ritual  of  Hindu  wor- 
ship   in    the    temples   of   Hindustan,   and   the 


*  As  Resident  .of  Singapore^  I  afterwards  maintained  a  cor- 
respondence with  this  individual. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  277 

Buddhists  also  employ  them  for  religious  pur- 
poses. Ordinary  ones  are  of  little  or  no  value ; 
but  when  nature  produces  a  lusu^y  by  inverting 
the  usual  order  of  the  spiral  convolutions  of  the 
shell)  they  are  in  great  request,  being  valued, 
according  to  their  size  or  beauty,  at  from  one 
to  two  hundred  pounds  sterling  a-piece.  One 
of  the  shells  exhibited  by  the  Minister  was  of 
this  description,  and  had  been  presented  to  the 
King  by  the  Rajah  of  Ligor.  Over  and  above 
its  own  supposed  value,  it  was  richly  set  with 
pearls  and  rubies.  In  Siam  no  subject  is  allowed 
to  be  possessed  of  one  of  these  shells.  They  are 
not  employed  in  the  common  ceremonies  of  the 
Buddhist  worship,  but  upon  solemn  occasions  only, 
when  they  are  filled  with  water,  over  which  cer- 
tain incantations  being  repeated,  the  element  is 
considered  holy,  and  thought  to  confer  a  blessing 
upon  whomsoever  it  is  sprinkled.  The  object  of 
exhibiting  the  shells  upon  the  present  occasion, 
was,  to  point  out  the  difference  between  them, 
and  to  beg  that  I  would  request  one  of  the  pre- 
cious ones  from  the  Governor-general  for  the  King* 
The  subject  of  our  commerce,  and  the  dispute 
respecting  Quedah,  were  introduced  in  the  course 
of  the  visit.  Respecting  the  former,  the  Prah- 
klang  plainly  stated,  that  what  the  Court  most  re- 
quired in  an  intercourse  with  the  English  were 
fire-arms ;  and  on  the  latter  subject  he  said,  that 
the  Grovernor  of  Ligor  would  soon  be   at  the 


S78  EMBASSY    TO  61AM 

capital,  and  that  all  matters  should  be  amicably 
arranged.  At  parting,  the  Minista*  wished  us  a 
safe  journey,  and  with  the  characteristic  aversion 
of  a  Siamese  for  the  sea,  asked  if  we  were  not 
afraid  of  so  long  a  voyage.  I  replied,  that  such 
of  us  as  were  sickly,  hoped  to  gain  benefit  by  the 
change  of  climate,  and  by  the  sea  air.  He  smiled 
at  this  remark,  and  appeared  quite  incredulous,— « 
observing,  that  the  Siamese  wid  English  must 
differ  widdy  in  this  respect,  for  that  even  a  few 
days  of  a  sea  voyage  made  a  Siamese  miserable, 
altering  bis  appearance  to  such  a  degree  that  his 
acquaintances  could  scarcdy  recognize  him ! 

In  the  evening,  the  Christian  bishop  sent  one 
of  the  priests  of  the  establishnikent  to  pay  us  a 
visit.  This  was  it  French  gentleman  who  had 
recently  arrived  at  Bang-^kok,  from  Prince  oi 
Wales's  Island,  by  a  Joiuney  across  the  peninsula. 
He  made  the  bishop's  apologies  for  not  visiting  .us 
in  person, — taking  pains  to  explaiB,  on  his  bdialf, 
the  extreme  circumspection  which  the  character 
of  the  Siamese  Government  rendered  indispensable 
in  his  situation.  We  had  indeed  ourselves  seen 
quite  enough,  to  render  these  explanati<ms  on  the 
part  of  the  bishop  superfluous.  Our  visitor  ^i- 
forced  his  explanations,  by  recounting  to  us  the 
story  of  the  punishment  inflicted  upon  the  Cbris^ 
tian  priests  in  Siam,  about  forty  years  before,  and 
which,  as  I,  have  heard  it  told  more  at  length 
from  others,  is  as  follows.     Fia  Metak,  the  advoi- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  279 

turer  of  Chinese  parentage,  who  mounted  the 
throne  of  Siam  upon  the  expulsion  of  the  Burman 
invaders,  was  partially  deranged  for  some  years 
before  he  lost  his  throne  and  life.  He  had  be- 
come fanatical,  and  entirely  devoted  to  the  priests 
of  Gautama,  to  whom  his  charities  were  unbound- 
ed. In  cHie  of  his  religious  frenzies,  he  took  it 
into  his  head,  that  by  still  more  intense  devotion 
than  he  had  hitherto  practised,  he  might  attain 
the  supernatural  gift  of  flying,  and  by  this  means 
be  enabled  to  ascend  direct  to  Heaven,  as  if  it 
were  by  a  sort  of  short  cut,  or,  as  it  was  explained 
to  me,  in  the  easy  and  rapid  manner  in  which  a 
bird  soars  to  the  sky.  He  sent  for  the  priests  of 
Gautama,  who  declared  the  project  to  be.  quite 
feasible.  The  bishop  and  other  Christian  clergy 
were  then  sent  for  and  asked  their  opinions. 
They  had  the  temerity  to  attempt  to  reason  his 
Majesty  out  of  the  delusion  with  w^hich  he  was 
possessed,  by  explaining  that  flying  was  incompa- 
tible with  the  physical  form  of  the  human  body. 
For  this  small  piece  of  philosophy,  and  also  for 
certain  opinions  oflered  about  the  same  time,  con- 
cerning the  unlawfulness  of  polygamy,  deemed 
heretical  in  Siam,  the  bishop  and  his  clergy  re- 
ceived each  a  hundred  blows  of  the  bamboo,  and 
were  banished  from  the  kingdom. 

Jnfy  15. — Every  thing  being  prepared  for  our 
departure,  we  embarked  at  five  o'clock  last  even- 
ing.   Just  as  we  were  going  on  board,  we  received 


280  EMBASSY   TO   8IAM 

a  message  from  the  Prince  Krom-chiat,  expressing 
an  earnest  desire  for  a  farewell  interview.  Al- 
though such  a  visit  was  rather  inconvenient,  I 
resolved  to  comply,  and  accordingly  waitj^  upon 
him  in  the  course  of  the  night,  accompanied  hy 
Mr.  Rutherford.  He  received  us  very  courteously, 
and  seemed  anxious  to  make  a  favourable  impres- 
sion upon  us  at  parting.  He  began  by  informing 
us  that  he  had  a  message  to  deliver  to  us  from  the 
King.  The  purport  of  the  message  in  question 
was,  that  his  Majesty  expressed  his  regret  that  he 
was  not  able  to  give  us  an  audience  of  leave, 
owing  to  the  great  distress  he  was  in,  occasioned 
by  the  deaths  which  had  recently  taken  place  in 
his  faiQily, — thus  alluding  to  the  loss  of  his  sister, 
his  brother-in-law  and  favourite,  and  the  high- 
priest  ;  but  the  Prince  added,  that  the  friendly 
sentiments  which  his  Majesty  entertained  towards 
the  English,  would  hereafter  be  proved  by  the 
protection  he  should  afford  to  all  the  merchants 
of  our  nation  who  should  visit  his  country.  The 
Prince  then  proceeded  to  offer  assurances  of  his 
own  friendly  sentiments,  and  condescended  to  say 
that  he  would  direct  prayers  to  be  offered  few 
our  safe  voyage.  He  dwelt  at  length  upon  his 
anxiety  to  prosecute  a  trade  with  the  British 
possessions,  and  referred  to  the  circumstance  of 
his  having  twice  sent  the  King's  ship  to  Calcutta 
with  this  view.  These  voyages  however,  he  said, 
were  unsuccessful,  owing  to  the  great  distance 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  281 

of  Bengal  and  the  unskilfulness  of  the  Siamese 
mariners.  After  an  audience  of  about  an  hour 
and  a  half,  we  took  leave. 

Jufy  16. — Yesterday  forenoon  the  ship  was  un- 
moored,  and  we  dropped  down  a  few  hundred 
yJEU'ds  only.  In  the  evening  an  officer  came  on 
board  from  the  Prah-klang,  with  a  message  and 
a  present  of  fruits  and  vegetables.  The  officers 
of  police  or  customs  also  visited  us,  in  order  to 
take  a  census  of  the  ship's  crew  and  followers  of 
the  Mission,  with  the  view  of  ascertaining  that 
we  carried  away  none  of  the  inhabitants  of  the 
country — a  matter  respecting  which  the  Siamese 
Government,  viewing  as  it  does  the  population 
of  the  country  as  its  own  private  property,  is 
especially  jealous  and  tenacious.  It  ought  here 
to  be  mentioned,  that  no  description  of  charge 
whatsoever  was  made  against  the  ship — her  bear- 
ing a  foreign  embassy  being  considered  to  exempt 
her  from  all  the  numerous  charges  incident  to  a 
merchant-vessel. 

As  soon  as  it  was  daylight  this  morning,  and 
we  could  steer  dear  of  the  Chinese  junks  and 
other  craft  in  the  River,  we  again  dropped  down, 
and,  passing  along  many  fine  and  highly  culti- 
vated reaches  of  the  Menam,  anchored  at  noon 
at  the  village  of  Klong-toe,  the  same  spot  where 
we  had  anchored  on  our  voyage  up.  Here  the 
banks  of  the  river,  to  the  depth  of  several  hun- 
dred yards,  were  occupied  by  villages,  and  by  a 


882  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

belt  of  orchards  and  gardaas.  The  lower  ground 
behind  these  again  presented  a  wide  extent  oi 
rice-lands.  Shortly  after  anchoring,  we  landed 
on. a  shooting  excursion,  but  were  not  successful 
The  country  indeed  now  was  nearly  inundated 
and  impassable.  The  peasantry,  often  up  to  their 
middle  in  water,  were  engaged  in  preparing  the 
ground  for  the  ensuing  crop.  The  Chief  of  the 
village  informed  us,  that  he  expected  a  return 
of  forty-fold  for  the  seed  which  he  sowed,  and 
that  he  would  consider  thirty  but  an  indifferent 
crop. 

In  the  course  of  our  visit  to  the  shore,  we 
came  accidentally  upon  a  village  temple,  near  to 
which  there  were  about  half-a-dozen  priests.  This 
was  an  oblong  building  of  brick  and  mprtar,  com- 
posed of  a  double  colonnade  all  round,  support- 
ing an  ordinary  tiled  roof.  At  one  end  of  it 
there  was  an  altar  crowded  with  gilded  images 
of  Gautama  and  his  disciples.  It  may  be  pre- 
sumed that  either  these  were  of  little  or  no  value, 
or  that  the  crime  of  Sacrilege  is  not  common  in 
Siam,  for  the  temple  was  open  all  round,  and 
there  was  no  one  watching  or  in  attendance.  In 
the  course  of  the  present  excursion,  as  well  in- 
deed as  upon  all  other  occasions  when  we  went 
amongst  tihe  peasantry,  we  met  with  nothing 
but  good^nature,  and,  as  far  as  regarded  our  per- 
sons and  property,  felt  the  same  confidence  and 


AKD  COCHIN   CHINA.  88S 

security,  in  rambling  through  the  villages,  that 
we  should  have  done  in  the  most  milized  coun- 
try in  Europe. 

J^  17. — We  weighed  again  this  morning,  and. 
at  nine  o'clock  arrived  off  the  Pegue  forts.  As 
the  idiip  dropped  slowly  down,  a  party  went  on 
shore  and  examined  the  fort  which  is  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  River.  This  was  a  square 
building  of  masonry,  slightly  constructed  with- 
out a  ditch,  bastion,  or  any  other  defence,  save 
the  bare  rampart  or  wall.  1  felt  surprised,  in 
going  up,  to  hear  that  this  and  the  opposite 
fort,  which  had  the  appearance  of  places  of  some 
consequence,  should  be  intrusted  tp  refugees  from 
Pegue ;  but  a  nearer  acquaintance  explained  the 
matter.  Both  forts  are  completely  dismantled, 
theb  cannon  had  some  years  before  been  car- 
ried off  to  the  captal,  and  even  the  gates  bad- 
been  removed.  In  the  oaie  which  we  .ex- 
amined, the  peasantry  of  the  neighbourhood 
were  employed  in  converting  its  area  into  a 
rice^fieid.  This  particular  part  of  the  Menam, 
if  adequately  fortified,  might,  no  doubt,  be 
made  sufficiently  strong,  for  it  does  not  seem 
above  850  yards  broad.  This  is,  however, 
what  cannot  happen  in  the  hands  of  the  Sia- 
mese, either  here  or  at  any  other  part  of  the 
river;  and  their  capital,  as  now  situated,  must 
always  be  exposed  to  destruction  by  the  sudden 


284  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

invasion  of  any  active  enemy.*  Refugees  from 
Pegue  seeking  protection,  under  the  Siamese 
Government,  from  the  excesses  of  the  Burmans, 
are  the  only  inhabitants  of  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  these  forts,  where  they  have  been 
planted  by  the  Grovernment  in  the  manner  of 
a  colony.  We  could  easily  distinguish  this  race 
from  the  Siamese,  by  the  long  hair  of  the  women, 
and  the  painted,  or  rather  tatooed,  limbs  of  the 
men.  This  latter  practice  is  sometimes  carried  to 
a  great  degree  of  extravagance.  One  person 
of  some  consideration  whom  we  met,  had,  for 
example,  not  only  his  legs  and  thighs  tattooed, 
but  an  inscription  tatooed,  across  his  breast,  in 
the  Pegue  or  Mon  character,  every  letter  of 
which  was  at  least  an  inch  long.  In  the  little 
intercourse  we  had  with  these  people,  we  found 
them  cheerful  and  communicative,  and  seemingly 
anxious  to  be  upon  good  terms  with  us. 

Jtdy  18.— After  dropping  down  the  river  slowly 
all  night,  we  found  ourselves,  at  about  six  o'docl^ 
in  the  morning,  opposite  the  village  of  Pak-nam, 
and  at  noon  anchored  beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
Menam.  The  view  of  the  sea,  which  now  pre- 
sented itself,  and  of  the  high  mountains  to  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Bay,  formed  a  cheering  and 
enlivening  prospect,  after  our  four  months'  con- 
finement to   the   Siamese   capital,  with  all    the 

*  These    forts    were    repaired,    and  cannon    mounted    on 
thenij  after  the  commencement  of  our  contest  with  the  Burmese. 


AN1>  COCHIN  CHINA.  285 

irksome  restraints  incident  to  the  relation  in 
which  we  stood  with  the  despotic  and  suspi- 
cious Government  of  Siam. 

The  village  of  Pak-nani,  which  I   have  just 
mentioned,  is  about  two  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  River,  on  its  left  bank — a  long,  straggling, 
and  poor  place.     It  is  not,  I  am  told,  unhealthy, 
which   is  surprising,    for   the  situation  is'  low, 
swampy,  and  comfortless.     The  swarms  of  mus- 
quitoes  which  infest  it  are  prodigious,  and  render 
it  intolerable  to  strangers.      This  plague  must 
even  render  it  miserable  to  the  inhabiCants  them- 
selves;    the  very  lowest  orders  of  whom  are  com- 
pelled to  use  musquito  curtains,  and  cannot  get 
a  moment's  rest  without  them.     Our  own  expe- 
rience of  them,  in  the  course  of  last  night,  more 
than  realized  the   accounts  which  we  had  read 
of  them  in  the  travels  of  voyagers  to  Siam,  and 
which  we  before  considered  as  exaggerated.     In 
going   up  the  River,  a  fresh  north-east  monsoon 
had  blown,  and  we  then  felt  no  inconvenience 
whatever  from  these  insects,    but  the  opposite 
monsoon  now  prevailed ;  and  when  it  fell  calm, 
about  six  o'clock  yesterday  evening,  they  came 
on  board  in  such  swarms,  that  we  were  compelled 
to  betake  ourselves  to  the  protection  of  boots, 
gloves,  fans,  and  finally  our  musquito  curtains. 
They  appeared  to  be  not  only  more  numerous, 
but  more  venomous  than  the  oldest  of  us  had 
experienced  in  any  other  part  of  India. 


286  EMBA88Y  TO   SIAM 

Jnl/f/  19* — The  Christian  interpreter,  Bastian, 
came  on  board  this  morning  with  a  message 
from  the  Chief  of  Pak-nam,  expressing  his  regret 
that  we  had  not  stopped  at  his  residence  and 
afforded  him  an  opportunity  of  paying  us  at- 
tention. It  is  but  justice  to  this  person  to  ob- 
serve, that;^e  had  been  constantly  polite  to  every 
individual  of  our  party  with  whom  he  had  any 
intercourse,  since  our  first  arrived  in  the  country. 

J%ty  25. — ^About  nine  o'clock  last  night,  we 
crossed  the  bar  of  the  River,  having  taken  no 
less  than  seven  days  in  warping  the  ship  over 
a  mud  flat,  ten  miles  in  extent.  The  outer  edge 
of  this  flat  is  sandy  and  of  harder  materials 
than  the  inner  part,  being  little  more  than  two 
hundred  yardi^  broad.  The  rest  of  the  flat  is  so 
soft^  that  when  the  ship  grounded  during  the 
jebb,  she  often  sunk  five  feet  in  thcf  mud  and 
clay  which  supported  her  upright,  so  that 
we  were  subjected  neither  to  risk  nor  incon- 
v^iienee.  The  highest  water  on  the  bar  of  the 
Menam  in  the  hot  months,  from  February  to 
September,  is  about  thirteen  and  a  half  feet; 
aitd*  i  in  the  remaining  four  months,  some- 
what more  than  fourteen  feet— a  difference  pro- 
bably produced  by  the  accumulation  of  water  at 
the  head  of  the  bay,  after  the  south-west  mon- 
soon, and  by  the  heavy  floods  of  the  rainy  season. 
The  extensive  mud  flat  and  bar  of  the  Menam 
are  serious  obstacles  to  its  navigation,  and,  on  this 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  287 

account,  foreign  trade  ought  perhaps  to  be  con- 
fined to  vessels  not  exceeding  two  hundred  or 
two  hundred  and  fifty  tons  burthen.     In  all  other 
respects,  the  River  is  extremely  safe  and  com- 
modious.    Its  mouth  is  no  sooner  approached, 
than  it  deepens  gradually ;  and  at  Pak-nam,  two 
miles  up,  there  are  six  and  seven  fathoms  water. 
This  depth  even  increases  as  you  ascend,  and  at 
Bang-kok  Is  not  less  than  nine  fathoms.     The 
only  danger  is,  or  rather  was,  a   sand-bank  off 
Pak-nam,  bare  at  low  water.     On  this  a  fort  or 
battery  has  been  erected  since  we  left  the  coun- 
try, which  afibrds  at  all  times  a  distinct  beacon. 
The  channel  of  the  River  is  at  the  same  time  so 
equal,  that  a  ship  may  range  from  one  side  to 
another — approaching  the  banks  so  closely,  that 
her  yards  may  literdly  overhang  them.   The  navi- 
gation is  said  to  be  equally  safe  all  the  way  to  the 
old  capital. 

Jtdy  26.— Two  of  the  Christian  interpreters 
came  on  board  this  morning,  with  an  answer  to  a 
letter  which  I  had  brought  to  the  Prah-klang 
from  the  Resident  of  Singapore.  The  reply  to 
that  from  the  Governor  of  Prmce  of  Wales's 
Island  had  only  arrived  three  days  before.  All 
this  was  perfectly  agreeable  to  the  spirit  of  pro- 
crastination which  characterises  every  measure  of 
the  Siamese  Government  that  came  under  our 
knowledge. 

August  4— From  the  26th  of  July  till  the  2nd 


288  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

of  this  month,  we  were  occupied  in  putting  the 
ship  in  a  condition  to  enable  her  to  sail  with 
safety  to  a  group  of  islands  close  at  hand,  called 
by  our  old  navigators  the  Dutch  Islands,  and  by 
the  natives  Ko  Si-chang ;  for,  in  order  to  enable 
her  to  pass  the  bar,  she  had  been  dismantled,  and 
her  draft  of  water  reduced  from  fifteen  to  twelve 
feet.  During  all  this  time,  and  indeed  from  the 
moment  we  quitted  Bang-kok,  we  had  a  constant 
succession  of  fine  and  serene  weather.  We  reached 
the  group  of  islands. in  question  yesterday  after- 
noon, and  had  here  the  satisfaction  to  find  a  safe 
and  beautiful  harbour,  formed  between  Si-chang, 
the  principal  island,  and  Koh-kam,  the  next  in 
magnitude.  A  party  landed  in  the  evening.  On 
.  the  large  island  we  discovered  nothing  but  an  un- 
inhabited hut,  close  to  which  it  was  evident  there 
had  been  a  considerable  extent  of  culture  not 
many  years  back ;  for  a  number  of  hardy  plants, 
such  as  capsicums,  yams,  and  the  indigo  plant, 
were  still  propagating  themselves  over  a  tract  of 
two  or  three  acres  of  ground  close  by.  At  this 
visit  we  could  discover  no  other  signs  of  occu- 
pation or  habitation  than  what  is  now  mentioned. 
We  afterwards  visited  Koh-kam,  forming  the 
eastern  side  of  the  harbour.  This  island,  com- 
posed of  one  hill  of  moderate  elevation,  about  a 
mile  long,  is  generally  cleared  of  forest,  cultivated 
with  maize,  cucumbers,  gourds,  and  bananas ;  and 
on  the  shore  of"  the  harbour  is  a  village  of  ten  or 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  289 

twelve  fishermen's  huts.  The  inhabitants  showed 
no  marks  of  timidity;  but  on  the  contrary  re- 
ceived us  with  much  kindness,— readily  offering 
to  share  with  us  their  yams,  bananas,  and  fish, 
without  bargaining  for  any  remuneration. 

Early  this  morning  we  paid  a  second  visit  to 
Si-chang,  and  landed  on  a  sandy  beach  farther  up 
the  harbour  than  the  spot  which  we  had  reached 
last  night.  Here  we  perceived  a  shed  covered  in 
with  a  tiled  roof.  Near  to  the  shed  a  good  path- 
way led  into  the  forest,  and  conducted  us,  after 
a  walk  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  to  a  fountain  of 
clear  and  fine  water.  The  same  path,  after  a  dis- 
tance of  a  quarter  of  a  mile  more,  ascending  the 
hills  of  which  the  bulk  of  the  island  is  composed, 
led  to  a  second  fountain  of  water^  near  to  which 
we  unexpectedly  perceived  a  Prachidi,  or  "  hrfy 
spire,"  of  solid  masonry,  and  about  thirty  feet 
high.  Still  there  was  no  sign  of  inhabitants. 
This  edifice  was,  in  fact,  a  place  for  the  traders 
between  Bang-kok  and  the  east  side  of  the  Gulf 
to  pay  their  devotions  at.  We  also  paid  a  second 
visit-  to  Koh-kam,  the  inhabitants  of  which  re- 
ceived us  with  the  same  familiarity  and  attention 
as  before.  Several  of  them  accompanied  us  to 
the  summit  of  the  hill,  from  which  we  had  an 
extensive  view  of  the  neighbouring  continent, 
not  above  ten  or  twelve  miles  distant,  as  well  as 
of  the  innumerable  islands  scattered  over  the 
eastern  shore  of  the  Gulf. 

VOL.  I.  u 


290  .  KMBASSY  TO  SlAfil 

Augu$t  S. — We  had  this  foreboan  a  vi»t  fron 
the  commander  of  two  small  Chinese  junks,  with 
their  followers,  which  had  come  in,  in  the  mom* 
ing,  bound  from  Tung-yai  to  Bang-kok,  with 
cargoes  of  pepper.  Our  visitors  ware  of  various 
races — some  being  Chinese,  others  Cochin  Chi- 
nese, and  others  Siamese  and  Kambojans;  for 
the  provinces  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bey 
are  inhabited  by  a  mixture  of  all  these  dififerait 
nations,  as  well  as  by  other  tribes  still  ruder. 
The  Chinese  commanders  informed  us,  that  the 
country  of  Tung-yai  and  Chan-ti-bun  produce 
pepper,  cardamumjs,  tod  eagle-wood ;  the  first, 
however,  only  in  large  quantity,  and  which,  at 
Tung-yai  alone,  might  amount  to  15,000  piculs 
yearly.  They  stated  that  the  coasting  trade  of 
Tung-yai  and  Chan-ti-bun  was  greatly  harassed 
by  the  depredations  of  pirates  from  Tringahu^ 
and  other  parts  of  the  Malayan  peninsula. 

Among  our  visitors,  I  found  an  individual  of 
the  wild  race  of  the  Chong,  who  appear,  as  far 
as  I  could  learn,  to  be  the  aboriginal  inhabitants 
of  the  territory  of  Chan-ti-bun  and  Tung-yar. 
In  features  and  complexion,  the  individual  whom 
I  now  saw  appeared  to  differ  essentially  from  the 
Siamese:  the  hair  was  softer,  the  beard  more 
copious,  the  features  more  prominent,  and  the 
complexion  much  darker.  This  might  however 
have  been  all  peculiar  to  the  individual.  He 
gave   me   a   short  vocabulary  of  his  dialect,-^ 


AND  t^OOHlN  CHINA.  291 

judging  by  whicK,  it  seems  to  be  essentiaUy  an 
original  language,  although  borrowing  a  consi- 
derable number  of  extrinsic  terms  from  the  Kamu 
bojan. 

August  9. — We  buried  two  of  our  people  this 
morning,  a  sepoy  and  a  washerman :  the  first,  a 
weakly  ycmng  man,  died  of  a  chronic  diarrhoea; 
and  the  second,  an  old  man,  of  a  hemorrhage 
from  the  lungs.  These,  with  the  exception  of  a 
Liascar,  who  died  of  pulmonary  consumptionr, 
were  the  only  deaths  irom  sickness  during  a 
voyage  of  thirteen  months*  continuance,  and  the 
only  casualties  in  our  party,  with  the  ^xceptioft 
of  the  Chinese  who  was  drowned  in  the  Me- 
nam.  When  it  is  considered  that  we  amounted 
in  all  to  one  handred  and  thirty  persons,  in- 
cluding the  ship's  company,  and  that  we  lay  in 
the  Menam  for  fou;  months,  during  the  most 
unfavourable  season  of  the  year,  and  not  very 
comfortably  situated,  this  statement  may  be  adk 
duced  as  strong  evidence  in  favour  of  the  -s»* 
lubrity  of  the  climate  of  Bang-kok. 

August  14. — We  had  now  been  nine  days^  at 
the  Si-chang  Islands,  without  suspecting  that  there 
was  a  single  inhabitant  on  the  larger  one.  Yes- 
terday morning,  however,  directly  abreast  of  the 
piace  where  the  ship  lay  at  anchor,  we  disco^ 
yered  a  foot-path,  which  conducted  us  through 
the  forest,  uiitil  it  brought  us  to  a  plot  of  cul- 
tivated ground,  ten  or  twelve  acres  in  extent; 

u  2 


292  £liBAS8Y  TO  8IAH 

surrounded  in  every  direction  by  the  deep  forest 
In  the  centre  of  it  was  a  single  hut,  the  inha^ 
bitants  of  which  were  an  old  man  and  woman, 
each  seemingly  above  seventy  years  of  age,  and 
very  frail.  The  man  was  a  Chinese,  and  his 
companion  a  native  of  Lao.  Although  we  came 
suddenly  upon  them,  and  were  probably  the  first 
Europeans  they  had  ever  met  with,  they  received 
us  familiarly,  and  without  apprehension  invited 
us  immediately  into  their  cabin,  and  cheerfully 
oflbred  us  plantains  and  Indian  com.  The  old 
woman  was  particularly  earnest  and  kind  in  her 
attention.  They  stated  to  us,  that  their  business, 
in  that  sequestered  spot,  was  to  cultivate  ve- 
getables for  the  supply  of  the  trading  boats  and 
vessels  which  passed  and  re-passed  between  Bang- 
kok and  Chan-ti-bun ;  and  that  one  of  the  party, 
the  husband  of  the  old  woman,  was  absent  at 
the  time  at  Bang-kok.  The  ground  was  neady 
Jaid  out  in  the  Chinese  style  of  husbandry,  and 
planted  with  maize,  yams,  battatas,  capsicums, 
and  cucumbers.  This  part  of  the  island  pre- 
^nted  a  greater  extent  of  level  and  good  ground, 
than  might  have  been  looked  for  from  its  rugged 
aspect  from  the  harbour. 

This  morning  the  old  man,  conformably  to  a 
promise  which  he  had  made,  paid  us  a  visit  on 
board,  and  returned  very  well  satisfied  with  the 
presents  which  we  made  him  for  himself  and  his 
pompanion. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  29S 


CHAPTER  VIIl. 

Departure  from  the  Si-chang  Islands. — Description  of  them. — 
Crossing  the  Gulf  of  Siam. — Sam-roi-^yot,  or  the  •*  Three 
Hundred  Peaks/' — Oroup  of  Islands  called  Pulo-panjang. — 
Mission  visits  Pulo  Condore. — Ruins  of  an  English  factory.-* 
Description  of  Pulo  Condore.—Cape  St.  James. — ^Arrival  in 
the  River  of  Saigun. — Intercourse  with  the  Chief  of  Kandyu, 
and  description  of  the  place. — Visit  to  Saigun.— Audience 
of  the  Ck>Ternor. — Elephant  and  Tiger  fights. — Description 
of  Saigun  and  its  River. — Departure  from  Saigun  for  the 
Capital. 

April  5.— Having  completed  our  wooding  and 
i^atering,  and  otherwise  prepared  the  ship  for  sea, 
we  weighed  anchor  at  ten  o'clock  this  forenoon, 
in  prosecution  of  our  voyage  to  Cochin  China, 
and  stood  across  the  Bay,  making  for  the  pro* 
jecting  land  on  the  western  coast,  called  in  Euro* 
pean  charts  the  Point  of  Cin. 

The  following  is  a  brief  description  of  the  Si- 
chang  Islands.  They  are  eight  in  number,  and 
the  largest  five  miles  in  length,  and  about  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  in  its  broadest  part.  Their  coasts 
are  in  general  bold  and  rocky,  with  here  and  there 


£94  EMBA88Y  TO  SIAM 

a  sandy  cove  intervening.  With  the  exception 
of  a  few  spots,  where  the  rocks  are  so  steep  and 
abrupt,  as  to  preclude  any  soil  resting  upon  them, 
their  surface  is  covered  every  where  with  forest- 
trees.  The  rock  formation  is  primitive,  consisting 
of  granite,  occurring  so  low  in  position,  as  gene- 
rally to  be  visible  only  during  the  ebb  of  the  sea. 
There  then  occurs  quartz  rock,  and  finally  blue 
granular  limestone,  on  which  repose  the  soil  and 
vegetable  mould.  The  occasional  minerals  foimd 
were  white  quartz,  in  veins  intersecting  the  lime- 
stone, quartz,  and  granite — ^veins  of  dolomite 
occurring  in  the  limestone  only ;  and  on  one  of 
the  smaller  islands,  veins  of  jaspery  iron-ore  in  the 
quartz  rock.  On  the  bolder  parts  of  the  coast  of 
the  larger  island,  there  were  several  caverns  to 
which  we  had  access  from  our  boats,  and  which, 
from  the  fantastic  forms  of  the  stalactites  and 
stalagmites  with  which  they  were  commonly 
lined,  presented  a  very  singular  and  picturesque 
appearance. 

Mr.  Finlayson  described  the  botany  of  the  island 
as  highly  interesting,  and  as  having  afforded  him 
a  number  of  new  species.  Among  the  plants,  no 
palm  is  to  be  found, — a  novelty  in  countries  so 
close  to  the  Equator.  Tuberous  rooted  plants 
abounded;  amongst  which,  one  was  of  so  sin- 
gular a  description,  that  it  deserves  particular 
mention.    This,  according  to  Mr.  Finlayson  and 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  295 

Dn  Widlidi's  opinion,  was  a  new  spefdes  of  meni-* 
spemum.  What  was  chiefly  remarkable  in  it, 
was  the  enormous  size  of  the  tuberous  roots. 
One  of  these,  which  we  brought  on  board,  weighed 
150  lbs. ;  another,  350  lbs. ;  and  a  third,  474  lbs. 
The  last  measured  nine  and  a  half  feet  in  cir- 
cumference. These,  with  several  smaller  ones  in 
a  living  state,  were  conveyed  to  the  botanical 
garden  of  Calcutta.  Not  above  one-fourth  part 
of  the  enormous  mass  of  these  roots  was  buried 
in  the  soil,  the  rest  being  entirely  exposed.  The 
small  size  of  the  stem,  which  was  scandent,  formed 
a  singular  contrast  with  the  bulk  of  the  root :  it 
was  scarce  half  an  inch  in  diameter  in  its  thickest 
part.  We  found  this  extraordinary  plant  growing 
on  two  or  three  of  the  smaller  islands,  generally 
in  a  scanty  and  rocky  soil,  not  far  from  the  shore,, 
and  always  under  the  shade  of  trees.  Its  substance 
was  white,  dense,  farinaceous,  and  somewhat  bitter 
to  the  taste.  The  natives,  with  some  propriety, 
called  it  Pai-pun-chang,  or  the  ''  elephant  yam  ;" 
and  informed  us  that  it  was  capable  of  affording  an 
esculent  farina,  which  they  sometimes  had  recourse 
to  in  times  of  scarcity,  but  they  evidently  put 
little  value  upon  it. 

The  only  quadrupeds  which  we  observed  on 
these  islands,  were  a  large  species  of  rat,  and  a 
small  squirrel  about  a  foot  long.  This  last  was 
numerous  in  the  forest,  and  we  obtained  several 


296  EUBAKSY  TO  SIAM 

specimens.  It  was  of  a  milk-white  odour,  the 
paws  excepted,  which  were  black,* 

Among  the  birds,  the  most  frequent  was  the 
white  pigeon,  already  mentioned.  On  one  of  the 
small  islands,  we  saw  and  succeeded  in  obtaining 
specimens  of  what  we  considered  a  new  species 
of  pigeon.  This  was  somewhat  larger  in  size 
than  an  ordinary  domestic  pigeon,  of  a  reddish 
brown  colour,  with  a  metallic  gloss  over  the 
neck  and  back,  having  the  wings  and  tail  black, 
and  the  head  ash-coloured.  It  was  a  very  shy 
bird.  A  small  species  of  green  pigeon,  or  dove, 
with  a  yellow  breast,  was  also  procured.  Fish- 
ing eagles,  of  a  large  size,  were  seen  in  consi- 
derable number,  and  specimens  obtained. 

The  harbour  of  Si-chang  and  the  neighbouring 
seas  appeared  to  abound  in  fish  ;  but  the  natives 
were  indolent  and  unenterprizing,  and  seemed 
satisfied  with  taking  what  was  sufficient  for  their 
own  immediate  wants,  and  no  more. 

Hamilton  t  is  the  only  writer  whom  I  have 
met  with  that  takes  notice  of  this  group  of 
islands.  He  calls  the  whole,  the  Dutch  Islands, 
and  the  principal  one,  or  Si-chang,  **  Amsterdam.** 
They  appear  to  have  received  these  names  on  ac- 
count of  the  ships  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Com- 

*  This  appears  to  be  a  new  species,  and  Dr.  HorseBeld  has 
appropriately  named  it  after  the  late  Mr.  Finlayson. 

t  Hamilton's  new  account  of  the  East  Indies,  from  1688  to 
1723,  vol.  ii. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  297 

pany  which  frequented  Siam  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  being  in  the  habit  of  taking  shelter 
at  them  in  the  south-west  monsoon.  English 
ships,  it  would  appear,  had  been  occasionally  in 
the  habit  of  doing  the  same  thing. 

August  15  — A  fine  steady  breeze  brought  us 
yesterday  quite  across  the  gulf,  which,  at  its 
head,  does  not  appear  to  be  above  fifty  miles 
broad.  In  the  passage,  the  high  land  was  gene- 
rally  visible  on  both  sides.  At  noon,  to-day,  we 
were  in  the  latitude  of  IS"*  2',  close  to  the  western 
shore,  and  in  five  fathoms  water.  A  few  miles  to 
the  north  of  us  was  seen  the  entrance  of  a  river, 
upon  which  is  situated  the  town  of  Kwi.  The 
view  to  the  west  of  us  was  novel  and  imposing. 
The  shore  was  a  sandy  ^ach,  and  behind  it  was  a 
narrow  strip  of  land,  beyond  which  nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  a  succession  of  peaked  mountains 
to  the  verge  of  the  horizon.  Some  of  the  peaks 
appeared  to  be  not  less  than  3000  feet  high.  Se- 
veral  were  insulated,  and,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  plain  to  the  height  of  many  hundred  feet, 
presented  the  appearance  of  artificial  cones.  The 
Siamese  give  to  these  mountains,  with  some  pro- 
priety, the  name  of  Sam-roi-yot,  which  means,  in 
their  language,  "  the  300  peaks.'' 

August  17. — We  continued  all  yesterday  and 
last  night  to  work  along  the  western  shore  of 
the  gulf;  and  when  we  had  made  the  head- 
land^ which  is  called  in  the  charts  the  Point  of 


S98  .£11BA6SY  TO   SIAH 

Cin,  but  correctly  written  Kwi,  we  stood  across 
the  bay  with  a  six^knot  breeze  for  Pulo  UbL 

August  ao.— On  the  17th  and  18th  we  con- 
tinued our  course  across  the  bay  with  a  favour- 
able wind,  and  yesterday  afternoon,  at  three 
o'clock,  anchored  off  the  group  of  islands  called 
Pulo  Fanjang,  to  the  north  side  of  the  largest 
island,  in  eighteen  fathoms  water.  A  party  land- 
ed immediately.  The  island,  which  is  about  three 
miles  long  and  two  broad,  is  composed  of  a  mass 
of  sand-stone,  in  which  we  found  some  conunon 
jasper,  of  a  reddish  brown  colour,  and  some  veins 
of  jaspery  iron-ore.  The  coast,  wherever  it  was 
visible  to  us,  c(»isisted  of  huge  fragments  of  this 
rock,  piled  one  upon  the  other,  and  rend^ing 
the  landing  difficult  and  precarious,  even  with 
the  fine  weather  which  we  enjoyed  at  the  time. 
The  island,  elevated  every  where,  but  exhibiting 
no  peak  or  hill  distinct  from  the  general  aspect, 
was  as  usual  covered  with  thick  wood,  into 
which  we  found  it  difficult  to  penetrate  even 
for. a  few  yards,  on  account  of  the  prevalence 
Qf  climbing  plants.  The  only  quadruped  we  saw 
was- a  handsome  greyish  brown  squirrel,  which 
was  new  to  us. 

This  group  of  islands  consists  of  seven.  The 
name  Pulo  Panjang,  or  *^  long  island,''  is  Ma- 
layim,  and  has  probably  been  imposed  by  the 
Malay  pirates,  who  occasionally  visit  it  in  their 
passage  across  the  gulf  when  aigaged  in  their 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S99 

predatory  expeditions  against  the  ^Aiese  and 
JQonbojan  estaUishments  on  the  eastern  coast 
In  the  course  of  our  excursimi  we  came  Bed^ 
dentally  upon  a  copious  fall  of  fresh  water,  and 
leading  to  it  saw  a  pathway,  which,  however, 
had  not  latdy  been  trodden.  This  spot  was  most 
likely  the  usual  place  of  resort  of  the  rovers  in 
question. 

At  daylight  this  morning  we  set  sail,  passing 
dose  to  the  two  islands  which  lie  immediately 
south  of  the  principal  one.  These  exhibited  se-^ 
veral  sandy  bays,  upon  which  a  landing  might  be 
effected  without  inconvenience. 

August  21. — ^Last  night  we  passed  the  fklse 
Pulo  Ubi,  and,  at  four  this  morning,  the  true 
Pulo  Ubi,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles,  and 
between  it  and  the  main  of  Kambqja.  We 
had  now  fairly  entered  the  Chinese  Sea,  and 
pursued  our  course  towards  Pulo  Condore. 

August  22, — ^Yesterday  afternoon,  we  passed 
the  little  islands,  or  rather  rocks,  called  The 
Brothers.  The  largest  is  not  above  a  mile  in 
circumference;  a  steep  and  almost  inaccessible 
rock,  with  a  few  stunted  shrubs  growing  on 
the  summit.  We  passed  within  half  a  mile  of 
it.  It  was  covered  with  innumerable  sea-fowl, 
chiefly  black  and  white  mews.  We  came  within 
a  few  miles  of  Pulo  Condore  in  the  course  of 
the  evening,  and  lay  to  all  night,  that  we  might 
have  daylight  to  enter  the  harbour.    We  accord-* 


300  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM. 

ingly  sailed  into  the  bay  this  morning,  wliicb 
presented  a  very  noble  prospect.  An  amphi- 
theatre of  steep  mountains  terminating  in  a  bold 
and  rocky  coast,  forms  the  harbour  to  the  southern 
and  western  sides.  The  northern  and  eastern  are 
formed  by  six  islets  of  various  sizes,  which  afford 
a  much  less  effectual  protection.  We  had  scarcely 
come  to  an  anchor,  when  a  native  boat  came  along* 
side; — thus  affording  an  example  of  early  confi- 
dence on  the  part  of  the  Cochin  Chinese,  which 
pleased  us  when  we  compared  it  with  the  dis* 
trust  and  timidity  always  evinced  by  the  Siamese 
throughout  their  intercourse  with  us. 

After  breakfast,  a  large  party  landed,  and 
passed  several  hours  in  visiting  the  village,  or 
rambling  over  the  shores  and  woods.  Opposite 
to  the  place  where  we  anchored  was  a  sandy 
beach  about  two  miles  in  extent,  with  a  tract 
of  low  land  behind  it,  extending  to  about  a  mile 
and  a  half  to  the  foot  of  the  hills.  This  plain 
is  sandy,  and  covered  with  a  tall  forest,  which, 
being  free  from  underwood,  admitted  our  walk* 
ing  through  it  without  difficulty.  Towards  one 
extremity  of  it  there  was  a  brook  of  fresh  water, 
in  following  which,  and  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  shore,  we  came  suddenly  upon  the  ruins  of 
the  English  factory  which  had  once  existed  at 
Pulo  Condore.  These  consisted  of  the  founda* 
tions  of  the  fort;  scattered  bricks  and  stones; 
fragments  of  coarse  earthenware,  and  porcelain 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  801 

in  very  considerable  quantity,  and  broken  pieces 
of  tobacco-pipes  of  European  manufacture.  The 
forest  about  the  ruins,  was  as  tall  and  luxuriant 
as  any  where  else.  The  establishment  had  been 
destroyed  one  hundred  and  eighteen  years  before, 
having  been  formed  in  the  year  1702,  and  trea* 
cherously  cut  off  by  its  own  native  garrison  in 
1704.  The  English  who  had  formed  the  settle^ 
ment  at  Ptdo  Condore,  were  the  same  who  had 
been  forced  to  abandon  the  factory  of  Chusan  in 
China ;  and  the  remnant  of  whom  having  after- 
wards formed  the  settlement  of  Banjarmassin,  in 
Borneo,  were  driven  from  this  place  also  through 
their  great  imprudence.  The  Governor,  Mr. 
Ketchpoole,  had,  according  to  the  practice  of 
those  times,  engaged  some  natives  of  Celebes  as 
soldiers,  stipulating  to  discharge  them  in  three 
years --an  engagement  which  he  failed  to  fulfil, 
and  the  breach  of  which  provoked  these  san- 
guinary people  to  rise  upon  the  English,  and 
murder  all  who  were  within  the  fort,  in  the 
dead  of  the  night,  and  as  they  lay  in  their  beds. 
A  few  who  lodged  outside  the  fort,  hearing  the 
cries  of  their  countrymen  when  attacked,  took 
the  alarm,  and,  gaining  the  beach,  embarked  in 
a  boat  that  happened  to  be  ready ;  and  after  a 
perilous  voyage  reached  the  territories  of  the 
King  of  Jehor,  who  received  them  with  hu- 
manity and  kindness.  I  found,  on  inquuy,  that 
the  natives  were  not  unaware  that  Europeans  had 


sot  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM. 

<Hioe  be^  settled  amongst  than ;  but  it  was  ah 
affair  of  mere  vague  tradition,  and  tb^  could 
give  no  precise  information  on  the  subject 

At  the  only  village  in  the  jAain  before-men* 
tioned^  the  natives  welcomed  us  with  great  firank^i^ 
ne8s»  and  with  a  confidence  which  was  extraor* 
dinary,  considering  that  they  have  littie  or  no 
intercourse  with  Europeans.  As  we  approached 
the  village,  we  found  the  young  men  playing 
at  foot-ball  on  the  sand.  They  interrupted  their 
sport  to  accompany  us  to  an  interview  with  the 
Chief.  This  person,  a  respectable-looking  mas, 
of  about  forty-five  years  of  age,  received  us  at 
first  under  a  shed,  but,  as  our  acquaintance  and 
fandiliarity  grew,  conducted  us  to  his  own  house, 
and  communicated  without  reserve  on  eveiy  to* 
pic  of  our  inquiries.  We  were,  in  every  reqiect, 
highly  gratified  by  our  intercourse  with  these 
poor  people..  After  returning  on  board,  the  Chief 
and  a  large  party  of  natives  paid  us  a  visit. 
Almost  every  one  had  a  small  present  to  offer. 
The  Chief,  on  his  part,  presented  us  with  some 
fresh  fish  and  a  turtle;  and  from  the  rest  we 
received  fowls,  eggs,  cucumbers,  melons,  and  oth» 
vegetables.  They  were  reluctant  to  take  pay- 
ment in  money  for  any  thing  they  offered,  but 
gladly  accepted  cloth,  cutlery,  and  other  articks 
of  European  manufacture.  In  the  conduct  of 
this  little  traffic  between  us,  there  was  a  dtgfc^ 
ci  delicacy  shown  on  their  part,  £avoiHably  op* 


ANB  COCHIN  CHINA.  S09 

iposed  to  the  rapacity  which  pervaded  every  class 
of  the  Siamese,  with  which  we  held  any  inter- 
course. One  of  our  gentlemen  presented  an  old 
man  with  a  piece  of  white  doth,  while  we  were 
on  shcffe.  He  immediately  produced  a  hen,  in 
return.  This  the  gentleman  at  first  declined  ao- 
ceptii^,  but  was  compelled  to  do  so  when  the 
old  man  threatened  to  return  the  doth.  The  gen- 
tleman, upon  this,  made  him  an  additional  pr&- 
sa[it;  upon  which,  the  old  man  produced  two 
additional  fowls,  resolving  not  to  be  outdone. 
We  parted  very  good  friends  in  the  evenings 
after  a  pressing  invitation,  on  their  part,  to  pro* 
long  our  stay.  The  chief,  on  going  away,  begged 
us  to  furnish  him  with  a  writing,  stating  that 
the  Mission  had  called  at  Pulo  Condore,  which 
be  might  show  to  any  English  ships  that  might 
hereafter  frequent  the  place.  ^Fhis  I  gladly  com-p 
plied  with,  and,  I  think,  I  may  safdy  recommend 
future  navigators,  visiting  the  islands,  to  the  hos^ 
pitality  of  Cham-K wan-Luang,  which  was  the 
name  oi  this  worthy  person. 

The.  islands  known  by  the  name  of  Pulo  Con- 
dore are  twelve  in  number,  of  various  sizes* 
The  largest  is  twelve  miles  in  length,  and  about 
four  in  its  greatest  breadth,  but  not  above  half 
this  in  some  places.  Others  of  the  group  are 
little  better  than  rocks.  FuloXondore  is  the 
fiurthest  limit  of  the  Malayan  navigation  to  the 
eastward.    For  what  purpose,  or  under  what  dr- 


S04  EMBASSr  TO  8IAM 

cumstanoes,  these  people  were  in  the  habit  of 
frequenting  the  island,  1  am  unable  to  tell ;  but 
I  think  it  not  improbable  that  it  was  a  station 
from  which,  in  the  days  of  their  power,  and 
probably  before  the  arrival  of  Europeans,  they 
conducted  their  piratical  depredations  against  the 
peaceable  coasts  of  Kamboja  and  Cochin  China. 
The  two  words  Pulo  Condore  mean,  in  the  Ma- 
lay  language,  the  Idand  of  Gourds—^,  name  not 
known  to  the  Anam  language,  in  which  it  is 
called  Kohnaong.  The  centre  of  the  large  island 
lies  in  latitude  V"  40'  North,  and  in  longitude 
106''  4Sf'  East,  about  forty-five  mile&  distant  firom 
the  mouth  of  the  western  branch  of  the  Kam- 
boja river.  The  general  aspect  of  this  group  of 
islands,  compared  to  all  that  we  had  hitherto 
seen,  was  bleak  and  rugged.  The  land  is  moun- 
tainous and  precipitate,  commonly  ascending  at 
an  angle  of  even  beyond  ^S^  from  the  very  sea. 
The  great  island  especially  is  one  mountainous 
chain  of  this  description,  the  highest  part  of 
which  is,  to  all  appearance,  Uttle  less  than 
1800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Wherever 
the  hills  are  exposed  to  the  direct  influence 
either  of  the  south-west  or  north-east  monsoons, 
they  are  either  altogether  bare,  or  covered  only 
with  coarse  grasses  or  herbaceous  plants ;  but,  on 
the  contrary,  where  there  is  shelter,  the  forest  is 
as  luxuriant  as  in  the  countries  upon  the  Equator 
itself.     The   geological  structure  of  the  island 


ANn   COCHIN   CHINA.  305 

is  primitive,  consisting,  wherever  we  examined 
it,  of  sienite  or  sienitie  granite,  and  common 
grey  granite;  the  latter,  however,  only  in  small 
quantity.  The  rock  was  so  hard,  especially  where 
the  sienite  prevailed,  that  it  destroyed  our  ham* 
mers,  and  we  found  great  difficulty  in  obtaining 
even  a  few  hand  specimens.  Nothing  can  be 
more  unfavourable  to  the  accumulation  of  soil 
than  such  a  structure  as  that  of  Pulo  Condore^ 
—  where  the  rock  is  s6  hard,  as  to  be  little  liable 
to  decomposition — where  the  hills  are  precipitate, 
— and  where  heavy  rains  prevail,  which  must 
wash  down  the  little  soil  that  might  otherwise 
be  disposed  to  rest  upon  a  surface  so  unfavour- 
able. 

Mr.  Finlayson  found  the  botany  of  the  island 
exceedingly  interesting  by  its  novelty  and  variety; 
more  especially,  as  many  of  the  plants  were  at  the 
time  in  flower  or  fruit.  The  common  mango 
(Mangifera  Indka)  was  discovered  in  the  forest, 
where  we  also  found  an  esculent  grape.  Dampier, 
whose  account  of  Pulo  Condore  is  marked  by  his 
wonted  fidelity,  says,  that  both  these,  as  forest 
fruits,  were  ripe  when  he  visited  the  island  in  the 
months  of  March  and  April.  He  states  that  the 
last  of  these  was  agreeable  to  the  palate,  and  the 
first  equal  to  any  cultivated  variety  of  the  same 
fruit  which  he  had  ever  eaten*  In  respect  ta  the 
mango,  we  had  no  opportunity  of  bearing  testi- 
mony to  his  accuracy* 

VOL.    I.  X 


S06  EMBASSY   TO   8IAH 

Of  quadrupeds  we  saw  only  monkeys  aiid  squir- 
rels. The  most  frequent  of  the  last  was  a  small 
animal  of  a  jet  black  colour  all  over.  Of  this  we 
obtained  a  living  specimen.  It  had  been  reported 
that  wild  oxen  were  to  be  found  in  the  forests 
of  Pulo  Condore,  the  descendants  of  those  intro- 
duced  by  the  English  settlers;  but  the  natives 
stated  that  this  was  not  the  case.  The  white 
pigeon  was  again  seen  with  a  very  large  green 
pigeon,  common  in  the  Malayan  peninsula  and 
the  adjacent  islands,  and  which  I  believe  to  be 
no  other  than  the  copper-coloiu^  nutm^-eater 
of  the  Moluccas. 

.  The  village  on  the  large  bay  consists  of  three 
hundred  inhabitants.  There  are  two  other  esta- 
blishments upon  the  island,  and  the  whole  popu- 
lation, according  to  the  information  supplied  to 
us  by  the  Chief,  amounts  to  eight  hundred  per- 
sons. These  are  all  natives  of  Cochin  China ; 
and  there  are  neither  Chinese  amongst  them  nor 
Kambojans,  as  has  been  asserted.  Among  those 
whom  we  saw,  there  was  certainly  no  appearance 
of  want  of  comfort.  The  houses  were  all  built 
upon  a  level  with  the  ground,  the  dry  and  sandy 
nature  of  the  soil  precluding  the  necessity  of  rais- 
ing them  upon  posts.  Persons  of  all  ages  had  a 
healthy  look,  and  many  of  them^  being  well 
clothed,  had  even  a  decent  and  respectable  ap- 
pearance. Numbers  were  marked  with  the  smaU- 
pox— showing  that  this  disease  had  been  com- 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  807 

mitting,  ite  ravajges  among  them.  There  was 
nothing  seen  to  warrant  a  belief  of  what  has  been 
reported  of  the  unhealthiness  of  the  climate.  The 
inhabitants  of  Fulo  Condore  cultivate  a  small 
quantity  of  rice,  of  which  we  saw  some  patchcfs 
in  the  forest;  but  their  principal  supply  is  ob- 
tained from  Saigun*  Besides  rice,  they  plant  a 
little  maize  and  some  cocoa-nuts,  and  raise  a  few 
cucumbers  and  other  common  esculent  vegetables. 
Their  principal  occupation,  however,  is  hatching 
turtle,  fishing,  and  extracting  dammer,  a  kind  of 
pitch,  and  wood  oil,  from  the  large  forest-trees. 
It  is  these  last  objects,  with  live  turtles,  oil  made 
from  turtle  fat,  and  dry  fish,  which  they  exchange 
for  clothing  and  food  at  Saigun.  In  live  turtle 
also  they  .pay  their  tribute  to  the  King  of  Cochin 
China,  to  whom  the  islands  belong. 

Of  late  years,  Pulo  Condore  has  rarely  been 
visited  by  European  voyagers.  Lord  Macartney, 
in  his  way  to  China,  in  1792,  touched  at  it  with 
the  expectation  of  receiving  refreshments  for  his 
sick,  but  was  disappointed,  and  went  on  to  Tiuan. 
The  Chief  of  the  island  informed  us,  that  although 
he  had  seen  many  ships  pass  close  by  the  island, 
none  had  ever  come  into  the  bay  in  his  recoUee* 
tion.  Five  years  ^ago,  one  European  vessel  sent 
her  boat  in,  and  received  a  few  refreshments. 

The  Hai-nan  junks  carrying  on  the  trade  be- 
tween that  island  and  Siam,  and  now  the  Cochin 
Chinese  junks  trading  with   Singapore,  make  a 

X  2 


308  EMBASSY    TO   SIAM 

practice  of  touching  at  Pulo  Condore  for  wood 
and  water,  and  these  are  the  only  description  of 
vessels  which  frequent  it  Its  convenient  and 
favourable  position,  as  a  commercial  emporium^ 
are  sufficiently  obvious,  and  did  not  escape  the 
sagacity  of  Dampier. 

We  heard  at  Pulo  Condore,  that  the  King  of 
Cochin  China  was  at  present  residing  at  his  capi- 
tal, the  city  of  Hu^;  and  that  Chao-Kun,  the 
Grovemor  of  Lower  Cochin  China,  the  person  of 
greatest  influence  in  the  kingdom,  was  at  Saigun. 
We  were  particularly  desirous  of  having  an  inter- 
view with  this  last  individual,  as  well  as  of  visiting 
the  dty  of  Saigun,  which,  with  the  excepti<»i  of 
Kaehao  in  Tonquin,  was  reported  to  be  the  richest 
and  most  commercial  part  of  the  kingdom.  Ac- 
cordingly, with  this  object  in  view,  we  sailed  from 
the  bay  of  Pulo  Condore  at  five  in  the  evening, 
directing  our  course  for  Cape  St  James. 

August  24. — Early  yesterday  morning.  Cape  St 
James  was  visible  at  the  distance  of  about  twenty- 
five  miles,  having  then  the  appearance  of  three 
small  islands.  It  falling  calm,  however,  and  the 
tide  being  against  us,  we  anchored  until  the 
fiftemoon,  when  we  again  made  sail,  and  early 
this  morning  reached  the  Cape,  and  anchored  off 
the  bay  of  Cocoa-nuts.  Cape  St.  James's,  a  pro- 
montory of  from  three  to  four  hundred  feet  high, 
forms  the  eastern  entrance  of  the  river  of  Sai- 
gun, and  occurring,  after  passing  a  low  coast  of 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  809 

two  hundred  miles  extent,  where  not  a  hill  or 
elevated  spot  is  iseen,  forms  an  excellent  land- 
mark for  the  entrance  of  the  river,  which  can- 
not well  be  mistaken.  Being  within  little  more 
than  a  mile  of  the  shore  we  landed,  while  the 
ship  was  waiting  for  the  flood-tide.  The  pre- 
vailing rock  which  forms  the  hilly  range  of  Cape 
St.  James,  is  a  tough,  hard  granite,  intermixed 
occasionally  with  sienite.  The  mountains  are 
wholly  uncultivated,  being  covered  with  a  scanty 
forest,  of  which  the  bamboo  forms  a  considerable 
part.  We  heard  the  crowing  of  the  wild  cocks 
in  the  woods,  and  saw  some  fishing-eagles  and 
ring-doves,  but  no  quadrupeds. 

In  the  afternoon,  when  the  flood-tide  made, 
we  sailed  for  the  anchorage  of  Kandyu,  which 
we  reached  before  dusk.  As  we  passed  the  vil- 
lage of  PungtXo,  which  lies  in  the  angle  of  the 
bay,  where  the  ridge  of  hUls  forming  Cape  St. 
James's  ends,  the  Mandarin,  or  petty  ofiicer 
t>f  the  place,  came  on  board  with  a  large  party 
of  followers.  He  was  a  little,  lively  old  man, 
whose  age  was  little  short  of  sixty.  We  were 
forcibly  struck  with  the  contrast  which  he  and 
his  followers  formed  with  the  first  Siamese  with 
whom  we  became  acquainted  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Menam.  The  Cochin  Chinese  were  more 
decently  clad,  and  instead  of  being  sluggish  and 
sullen  in  their  manners,  were  lively  and  civil. 
This  officer  recommended  to  us  to  write  a  letter 


SIO  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

to  the  Governor  of  Saigun,  to  be  forwarded 
through  the  Chief  of  Kandyu»  who  was  his 
superior  officer.  We  accordingly  wrote  an  Eng- 
lish letter  to  His  Excellency,  with  a  French  trans- 
lation, understanding  at  the  time  that  several 
French  gentlemen  were  at  Saigun,  and  that  it 
was  possible  there  might  be  no  person  there  who 
could  understand  the  original.  This  letter  we 
transn^itted  to  the  Mandarin  of  Kandyu.  He 
sent  a  polite  message,  in  answer,  to  say  that  a 
list  of  the  persons  attached  to  the  Mission,  of 
the  ship's  company,  and  of  the  guns,  arms,  and 
ammunition,  in  the  Chinese  character,  would  be 
necessary  to  send  to  the  Governor  of  Saigun, 
with  our  letter.  This  requisition  was  complied 
with. 

The  point  of  Kandyu  may  be  looked  upon  as 
the  actual  mouth  of  the  river  on  its  right  or 
western  bank.  From  Cape  St.  James  to  this 
place,  a  distance  of  nine  nautical  miles,  may  be 
viewed  rather  as  a  bay  of  the  sea  than  a  por- 
tion of  the  river.  On  the  western  side,  oppo- 
site the  high  lands  of  Cape  St.  James,  an  exten- 
sive mud-bank,  proceeding  from  a  flat  shore,  nar- 
rows the  channel  for  ships  entering  to  about 
two  and  a  half  nautical  miles.  From  the  edge 
x>f  this  bank  to  the  shore  on  the  eastern  side, 
this  spacious  bay  is  not  less  than  four  and  a- 
half  miles  broad.  In  mid-channel  there  is  every 
where  frpm  six  to  nine  fathoms ;  and  after  you 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  311 

have  fairly  entered  the  river,  rarely  less  than  ten ; 
so  that  this  fine  stream  is  navigable  for  ships 
of  almost  any  burthen,  and  it  scarcely  requires 
a  pilot  throughout.  Relying  upon  our  bearings 
and  soundings,  and  on  our  charts,  vre  stood  boldly 
on  at  night,  as  if  we  had  been  entering  a  har- 
bour well  known  to  us.  The  actual  breadth  of 
the  true  mouth  of  the  river  is  about  one  and  a 
half  English  mile. 

We  were  now  anchored  immediately  behind 
the  Point  of  Kandyu,  secure  from  every  wind. 
To  the  eastward,  the  hills  of  Cape  St.  James, 
and  more  to  the  north  an  elevated  range  of 
mountains,  seemingly  about  twenty-five  miles  dis* 
tant,  were  visible.  Every  where  else  nothing  was 
to  be  seen  but  the  low  and  wooded  shore,  with 
fishing  villages  here  and  there  thudy  scattered 
over  it.  The  extraordinary  deamess  of  the  wa- 
ter, for  so  large  a  river,  coming  through  an  ex-* 
tensive  alluvial  tract,  forms  a  striking  contrast 
with  the  disturbed  and  muddy  streams  of  the 
Granges  and  Menam. 

August  25. — The  Mandarin  of  E]andyu,  whose 
authority  seems  to  extend  over  all  the  inhabitants 
about  this  part,  amounting,  as  we  were  told,  to 
about  two  thousand  in  number,  had  promised  last 
night  to  pay  us  a  visit  in  the  course  of  to-day,  and 
accordingly  he  came  on  board  as  early  as  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  with  a  great  number  of 
followers.    He  was  superior  in  appearance  to  any 


SI  2  filTBASSY  TO   SI  AM 

of  those  who  came  on  board  yesterday.  He 
seemed  near  seventy  years  of  age,  but  full  of 
vivacity.  Neither  he  nor  those  who  accompanied 
him  were,  in  any  respect,  less  civil  or  obliging 
than  our  visitor  of  yesterday.  We  soon  found 
our  new  acquaintances  to  be  great  and  vehement 
talkers,  and  their  conversation  was  accompanied 
by  a  more  than  moderate  portion  of  gesticulation. 
It  readily  occurred  to  us,  that  there  was  in  exte- 
rior, although  it  unquestionably  amounted  to 
nothing  more,  some  foundation  for  the  Cochin 
Chinese  being  called  the  French  of  India.  The 
old  chief  brought  us  a  supply  of  fresh  fish,  and 
we  presented  him,  in  return,  with  some  cloth, 
cutlery,  and,  what  seemed  to  be  no  less  welcome, 
some  brandy.  He  promised  to  forward,  with  all 
speed,  our  letter  to  the  Gtovernor  of  Saigun,  and 
said,  that  in  a  day,  or  a  day  and  a  half,  we  should 
have  a  reply ;  and  that  he  rested  assured  the  Go- 
vernor would  be  gratified  with  the  visit  which  we 
proposed  paying  him. 

August  26. — Mr.  Finlayson,  Mr.  Rutherford, 
and  myself,  visited  the  old  chief  last  night,  and 
were  received  with  great  cordiality.  Tea  and  to- 
bacco were  served  to  us.  Kandyu  is  but  a  poor 
place,  and  the  chief's  residence  a  very  paltry  one ; 
but  the  hospitality  of  our  reception  made  some 
amends  for  the  homeliness  of  our  entertainment. 
At  an  early  hour  this  morning  he  visited  us  again. 
A  number  of  fishermen  had  come  on  board  in  the 


AND   COCHIN    CHINA.  813 

course  of  yesterday,  and  furnished  us  with  an 
ample  supply  of  fine  fish  at  very  low  prices.  En- 
couraged by  our  prompt  payment,  they  had  re- 
paired to  us  again  this  morning,  and  the  old  chief 
found  two  of  them  on  board.  It  appears  they 
had  come  tvithaut  orders,  and  the  followers  of  the 
man  in  office  began,  in  a  manner  quite  unexpected 
to  us,  to  punish  them  summarily  on  the  spot  for 
this  alleged  breach  of  duty.  Our  attention  was 
called  to  this  practical  illustration  of  Oriental  go- 
vernment, by  seeing  one  of  the  fishermen  taken 
into  custody;  the  officer,  as  he  carried  him  off, 
cuffing  him  over  the  face,  and  kicking  him  with 
such  ludicrous  address,  that  his  foot,  at  every 
effort,  reached  sometimes  the  loins  and  sometimes 
the  shoulders  of  the  alleged  offender.  The  fisher- 
man's defence  consisted  in  throwing  himself  on  his 
face,  on  the  deck,  making  three  prostrations,  ac- 
knowledging his  offence,  and  crying  for  mercy.  I 
complained  to  the  chief  of  this  piece  of  violence ; 
but  he  treated  the  matter  very  lightly,  and  seemed 
to  regard  the  fisherman's  offence  rather  as  a  breach 
of  etiquette,  or  neglect  of  customary  forms,  than 
as  any  thing  more  serious  ;  and  assured  us  that  it 
should  be  attended  with  no  inconvenience  to  us, 
or  farther  injury  to  the  fisherman,  who  was  im- 
mediately released.  The  old  man,  after  partaking 
of  tea  and  liqueurs,  left  us. 

In  the  forenoon,  Mr.  Rutherford  and  myself 
went  on  shore,  and  were  received  by  the  old 


814  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

Mandarin  with  the  same  cordiality  as  upon  the 
first  occasion.  Requesting  us  to  leave  our  Indian 
attendants  behind,  he  conducted  my  companion 
and  myself  into  his  private  apartments.  Here 
we  found  a  respectable-looking  middle-aged  wo- 
man,  the  chief's  wife,  and  three  young  and  comely 
girls,  his  daughters.  The  ladies  did  not  appear  by 
any  means  abashed  or  discomposed  by  the  appear- 
ance of  strangers.  Seeing  that  we  were  disposed 
to  take  the  diversion  of  shooting,  the  old  man  sent 
two  of  his  principal  people  to  accompany  us,  and 
we  wandered  over  the  fields  near  the  village, 
passing  through  the  principal  part  of  the  latt^ 
on  our  return.  The  village  of  Kandyu  is  built 
upon  a  creek,  connected  with  the  river.  The 
inhabitants  consist  of  about  three  hundred  fami- 
lies, or  between  one  and  two  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  men  were,  I  believe,  chiefly  out  fi^ihing ;  but 
the  women  and  children  were  very  numerous. 
Although  the  land  lies  here  so  low,  the  houses 
are  aU  upon  a  level  with  the  ground,  and  not 
raised  on  posts  as  amongst  the  Siamese.  Our 
appearance  excited  a  good  deal  of  curiosity,  and 
the  inhabitants  flocked  round  us  in  numbers,  ob- 
serving a  very  civil  and  respectful  demeanour. 
The  village  appeared  well  stocked  with  hogs  and 
poultry,  and  there  were  at  least  no  outward  marks 
of  want  or  misery. 

During  our  excursion,   we  visited  two   tem- 
ples about  a  mile  distant  from  the  village.     They 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  S15 

were  built  of  brick  and  lime,  and  roofed  with 
red  tile,  having  the  ridges  and  eaves  ornamented 
with  figures  of  animals  carved  in  wood  and 
painted.  Each  consisted  of  two  chambers,  in 
the  first  of  which  was  an  altar  of  brick  and 
lime,  having  upon  it  two  figures  of  storks  op^ 
posite  to  each  other.  The  inner  chamber  con- 
tained a  number  of  elevated  masses  of  brick 
and  mortar,  resembling  tombs.  The  walls  were 
painted  with  figures  of  tigers  and  fish,  and  with 
dragons  and  other  monstrous  animals.  There 
seemed  no  distinct  object  of  worship,  either 
statue  or  picture.  We  were  told,  however,  that 
the  temples  were  dedicated  to  certain  great  fishes, 
which  were  represented  as  the  tutelary  deities 
of  the  place,  and  the  protectors  of  the  fisher- 
men of  Kandyu  and  its  neighbourhood.  The 
mounds  of  brick  and  mortar,  resembling  tombs, 
of  which  I  have  spoken,  were  alleged  to  con* 
tain  the  remains  of  some  of  the  fishes  in  ques^ 
tion,  which  had  been  stranded  on  the  shore  of 
the  bay  of  St.  James. 

Connected  with  each  of  the  temples,  was  a 
poor  mean-looking  house,  where  justice,  we  were 
told,  was  administered.  Near  at  hand  was  an 
extensive  burying-ground,  the  tombs  commonly 
consisting  of  rude  mounds  of  earth,  the  outer 
sides  now  and  then  cased  with  rough  stones. 

August  28. — This  morning  early,  the  Man^ 
darin  of  Kandyu  came  on  board  to  inform  us, 


S16  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

that  a  reply  to  our  letter  had  arrived  late  last 
night,  and  that  a  deputation  had  reached  the 
place  from  the  Governor  of  Saigun,  to  invite 
and  escort  us  up  to  his  residence.  We  were 
informed  that  the  persons  who  composed  the 
deputation,  waited  only  for  our  sanction  to  come 
on  board.  Upon  receiving  this,  they  accordingly 
came  off  without  delay.  The  deputation  con- 
sisted of  seven  Mandarins  in  four  boats,  the  two 
largest  of  which,  meant  for  our  accommodation, 
were  manned  each  with  forty  oars.  The  rowers 
were  dressed  in  scarlet,  and  had  on  a  kiiid  of 
helmet,  with  a  plume  of  cock's  feathers.  They 
rowied  the  boats  standing  upright,  and  facing  the 
prow. 

'  The  members  of  the  deputation  were  well 
dressed  in  silks,  and  had  in  all  respects  an  air 
of  much  respectability.  Their  manners  were 
brisk  and  lively  ;  they  spoke  and  laughed  a  great 
deal,  and  seemed  under  no  constraint.  Our  con- 
versation only  touched  upon  our  visit  to  Sai- 
gun.  We  endeavoured  to  provide  as  well  as 
we  could  against  detention,  and  were  assiu^  by 
them  that  we  should  not  be  delayed  there  be- 
yond three  days.  We  had  at  first  intended  to 
have  gone  up  in  the  ship,  but  finding  that  our 
passage  up  and  down  in  this  manner  would  be 
tedious,  we  abandoned  the  project,  and  resolved 
to  proceed  in  the  barges  now  sent  down  to  re- 
ceive us.    In  the  discussion  which  took  place, 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  SI? 

perfect  urbanity  and  good  humour  were  observed 
on  the  part  of  all  the  members  of  the  deputa* 
tion.  Few  questions  were  put  by  them»  and 
these  few  were  not  ill-bred  or  importunate,  as 
in  our  first  intercourse  with  the  Siamese.  The 
most  material  one  had  for  its  object  to  ascer- 
tain whether  the  Mission  came  from  the  King 
of  England,  or  from  the  Governor-general  of  In- 
dia. To  this  we  generally  answered  that  His 
Majesty  the  King  of  England  sent  no  embas- 
sies to  any  of  the  princes  of  the  East,  and  that 
-when  they  were  necessary,  he  usually  deputed 
his  authority  to  the  Governor-general  of  India. 
After  partaking  of  tea  and  liqueurs,  the  depu- 
tation took  their  leave,  and  were  saluted. 

August  89. — At  six  o'clock  yesterday  evening, 
Mr.  Finlayson  and  I  embarked  for  Saigun.  The 
whole  of  our  party  consisted  of  thirty-three  per- 
sons. One  of  the  boats  afforded  very  comfort- 
able accommodation  for  Mr.  Finlayson  and 
myself,  but  the  rain  poured  down  in  torrents 
during  the  night,  and  we  could  not  avail  our- 
selves of  the  moonlight  to  observe  the  appearance 
of  the  country  as  we  ascended.  As  soon  as  day 
broke  we  observed,  on  each  side  of  the  river,  a 
wide  extent  of  champaign  country,  cultivated 
every  where  with  rice,  and  over  which  villages 
were  thickly  scattered.  At  eight  o'clock  the  city 
of  Saigun  was  visible  on  the  right  or  western 
bank  of  the  riven    Before  coming  to  it  we  saw 


S18  EMBASSY   TO   8IAM 

far  several  miles,  on  each  side  of  the  stream,  a 
fine  avenue  of  trees,  and  a  public  road,  which 
we  were  told  led  to  the  city.  At  nine  o'clock 
we  reached  the  usual  landing-place,  where  we 
had  to  wait  for  a  considerable  time  before  the 
house  destined  for  our  accommodation  was  de- 
termined on.  The  apology  offered  for  this  de- 
tention was,  that  the  day  was  a  great  festival, 
and  that  the  Governor  and  other  Chiefs  were  en- 
gaged at  the  temples  in  their  devotions. 

We  were,  at  length,  conducted  through  a 
large  creek,  or  canal,  which  falls  into  the  wes- 
tern side  of  the  river,  and  which  communicates 
with  the  fortress,  to  the  place  destined  for  our 
reception.  This  was  a  large  public  edifice,  a 
kind  of  town-hall,  exactly  in  the  form  of  an 
Indian  bungalow,  with  a  porch  and  arcade  in 
front.  A  number  of  persons  were  employed  in 
preparing  it  for  our  reception,  and  there  was  a 
great  bustle.  An  ofiicer  and  twenty  soldiers 
were  ord^*ed  as  a  guard  for  us,  and  double 
sentiiiels  were  placed  at  the  gate  to  keep  off 
the  crowd,  that  from  curiosity  was  pressing  in 
to  see  us.  A  number  of  servants  were  also 
appointed  to  wait  upon  us.  About  one  o'clock 
a  dentation  of  two  Mandarins  of  rank  came 
to  compliment  us  upon  our  arrival,  and,  losing 
no  time,  also  to  discuss  public  matters  with  us. 
These  two  persons,  we  were  given  tO  under- 
stand,^  were  judges  of  the  principal  tribunal  .of 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  319 

the  city.  Their  manners  were  very  good,  but 
had  more  of  Chinese  gravity  in  them  than  those 
of  the  persons  who  had  come  to  meet  us  at 
Kandyu.  They  were  far  superior  in  rank  to 
even  the  senior  of  the  latter,  who,  1  observed, 
stood  up  in  their  presence;  for  this  is  the  at- 
titude of  respect  towards  superiors  among  the 
Cochin  Chinese.  They  began  by  requesting  that 
we  would  recommend  to  our  followers  and 
people  a  guarded  conduct  in  their  intercourse 
with  the  inhabitants  of  the  country ;  for  that. 
If  any  disputes  arose,  it  would  be  an  unpleasant 
matter  to  us,  and  an  affair  of  great  scandal  to 
the  Cochin  Chinese  Government.  We  assured 
them  that  the  strictest  injunctions  had  been 
given  to  our  people  upon  the  subject  After 
this  we  were  asked  whether  the  Mission  was 
deputed  by  the  King  of  England,  or  by  the 
Governor-general.  We  replied,  by  the  Gover- 
nor-general, by  whom  the  diplomatic  intercourse 
with  the  princes  of  India  was  commonly  con- 
ducted, since  his  Majesty  the  King  of  Eng- 
land was  too  far  away  to  conduct  such  matters 
directly  with  convenience.  We  were  then  asked 
how  long  we  had  been  from  Bengal,  what  coun- 
tries we  had  visited,  how  long  we  had  remained 
in  them,  &c.  &c.  When  Siam  was  mentioned, 
we  w&re  asked  if  we  had  had  an  audience  of 
the  King,  and  whether  there  were  now  any 
English  ships  there;  to  which  questions  we  an- 


320  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

swered  in  the  affirmative*  The  evident  object 
of  such  interrogatories  was  to  ascertain  the  na- 
ture  of  our  reception^  and  the  result  of  our  mis- 
sion. We  were  now  asked,  if  we  had  been 
directed  by  the  Governor-general  of  India  to 
visit  the  Governor  of  Lower  Cochin  China.  We 
said,  that  we  had  the  Governor-general's  sanc- 
tion to  do  so,  if  we  thought  it  necessary.  The 
deputies  answered,  that  if  this  was  the  case  we 
had  a  letter  for  the  Governor  of  Lower  Cochin . 
China,  as  a  matter  of  course.  We  said  we 
had  no  letter,  for  it  was  not  the  custom  of  our 
Government  to  address  a  subject,  however  high 
his  rank,  without  the  authority  and  sanction 
of  his  own  sovereign.  The  deputies  then  de- 
manded to  know  for  what  purpose  we  had  vi- 
sited Saigun.  To  this  question  a  full,  and  to 
all  appearance  a  satisfactory  explanation  was 
given.  It  was  then  asked,  if  there  were  any 
presents  for  the  King  of  Cochin  China.  In 
reply  to  this,  a  few  of  the  principal  articles 
were  enumerated.  This  was  deemed  quite 
enough,  and  no  farther  questions  were  put  re- 
specting this  matter. 

A  more  difficult  topic,  however,  was  now 
started.  The  deputies  had  informed  us,  that 
the  Governor  of  Lower  Cochin  China  wished 
to  see  the  letter  of  the  (Jovemor-general  to  the 
King,  that  he  might  have  an  opportunity  of 
making  a  report  upon  it  to  the  Capital. — We  men- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  S21 

tioned,  in  a  few  words  the  purport  and  contents 
of  the  letter,  and  gave  the  deputies  to  understand, 
that  we  had  offered  to  show  it  to  the  deputation 
that  came  to  wait  upon  us  at  Kandyu,  and  that 
we  had  also  tendered  a  copy  and  translation  of 
it  to  be  presented  to  the  Governor  of  Lower 
Cochin  China,  but  that  both  proposals  were  de- 
clined as  unnecessary.  We  dwelt  on  the  incon- 
venience and  delay,  at  such  an  advanced  and 
precarious  state  of  the  monsoon,  that  would  at- 
tend our  sending  for  the  letter  to  the  ship,  as 
even  a  day  or  two  was  now  ofv  consequence  to 
us.  In  their  reply  to  this,  they  took  no  notice 
of  the  circumstance  of  the  Mandarins  who  went 
to  Kandyu,  declining  the. proposal  of  seeing  the 
letter  there,  or  bringing  copies  of  it  to  Saigun, 
but  asked  us  how  the  Governor,  in  writing  to 
Hu6,  could  reasonably  describe  a  letter,  the  coil- 
tents  of  which  he  had  no  opportunity  of  verify- 
ing by  his  own  inspection.  We  now  offered 
to  exhibit  the  letter  to  any  officer  who  might 
be  sent  down  to  the  ship  to  inspect  it,  and  in 
the  meantime  to  bring  up  copies  and  transla- 
tions. This,  however,  was  not  deemed  sufficient. 
Several  messages  passed  and  repassed  between 
the  deputies  and  the  Governor  during  the  con- 
ference,  the  purport  of  which  we  could  not  learn. 
This  business'  ended  by  the  MandaJins  inform- 
ing us  that  the  matter  would  be  taken  into  far- 
ther  consideration  to-morrow  morning,  when  we 
vol..  I.  Y 


322  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

should  have  a  final  answer.  During  this  long 
conversation,  in  accordance  with  their  mixed  cha- 
racter of  lawyers  and  diplomatists,  no  inconsider- 
able share  of  skill  and  dexterity  in  questioning 
and  cross-questioning  was  displayed  by  the  Co- 
chin Chinese  deputies.  The  interview  lasted 
between  five  md  six  hours,  so  that,  with  our 
journey,  it  left  us  thoroughly  fatigued.  At 
parting,  the  Mandarins  presented  us,  on  the 
part  of  the  Governor,  with  a  quantity  of  rice, 
fruit,  sugar,  fowls,  poultry,  and  a  hog.  The 
last  is  a  description  of  present  peculiarly  de- 
manded by  the  customs  of  the  country,  and 
never  omitted  on  an  occasion  of  any  import- 
ance. Mr.  Finlayson^  who  understood  the  Por- 
tuguese language,  acted  upon  this  occasion  as 
interpreter,  and  his  words  were  rendered  into 
Cochin  Chinese  by  a  very  intelligent  native 
Christian,  whose  name  was  Antonio,  and  who, 
during  our  stay  at  Saigun,  proved  very  useful  to  us. 

Monsieur  Diard,  the  only  French  gentleman 
at  present  in  the  place,  dined  with  us  in  the 
evenhig.  This  gentleman  is  a  naturalist  and 
physician,  and  travels  under  the  latter  name. 
He  has  been  at  Saigun  only  three  months,  hav- 
ing come  from  Hu^-  He  had  before  visited 
Bengal,  Sumatra,  and  Java,  and  is  well  known 
for  his  active  pursuits  in  the  department  of 
natural  history. 

Aug.    SO.-— Immediately  after    breakfast   this 


AND   COCHiN   CHINA.  S23 

morning,  we  had  a  visit  from  a  Mandarin  of 
the  military  order,  called  Ong-kwan-beng^  This 
person,  a  man  of  about  fifty,  of  very  respectable 
appearance,  with  a  flowing  white  beard  reaching 
nearly  to  his  girdle,  was  of  higher  rank  than  our 
visitors  of  yesterday.  His  object  was  to  urge 
the  request  already  made  for  the  Governor-ge- 
neral's letter  to  the  King.  Finding  this  could 
not  be  evaded,  we  yielded  with  as  good  grace  as 
possible,  after  receiving  a  pledge  that  we  should 
not  be  detained  beyond  three  days,  and  that 
the  letter  should  not  go  out  of  our  own  hands. 
The  Mandarin  was  quite  satisfied  with  this  ;  and, 
in  concluding  the  conversation,  assured  us  that 
the  Governor's  request  was  strictly  conformable 
to  the  laws  and  usages  of  the  country,  and  hoped 
we  should  put  no  unfavourable  construction  upon 
his  conduct. 

While  Ong-kwan-beng  was  with  us,  the  two 
Mandarins  who  had  visited  us  yesterday  made 
their  appearance.  They  bowed  to  him  respect- 
fully, but  not  servilely,  as  they  came  in,  and 
iteated  themselves  on  the  same  bench  with,  but 
behind  him.  During  the.  conversation,  both  to- 
day and  yesterday,  I  was  a  little  surprised  to 
find  that  instead  of  avoiding  to  explain  them- 
selves through  our  interpreters,  as  was  always 
the  case  in  Siam,  the  Chiefs  frequently  volun- 
teered this,  and  seemed  indeed  to  give  them 
a  preference  to  their  own. 

Y  2 


324  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

A  message  came  to  us  in  the  course  of  the 
day  from  the  Governor,  to  say  that  we  were  at 
liberty  to  go  abroad,  and  visit  any  part  of  the 
city  we  might  think  proper,  and  that  either  ele- 
phants, horses,  or  boats,  would  be  supplied  to  us 
as  we  might  prefer. 

•  The  letter  of  the  Governor-general  arrived  to- 
day about  half-past  ten  o'clock ;  the  boat  sent  to 
the  ship  haying  proceeded  with  such  despatch  as 
to  have  taken  in  all  no  more  than  twejity-two 
hours  in  going  and  coming.  Notice  of  this  was, 
without  delay,  sent  to  the  Mandarins  cluurged 
with  our  business,  and  the  three  persons,  who  had 
visited  us  before,  presented  themselves  in  less 
than  half-an-hour. 

We  had  by  this  time  found  that  our  Cochin 
Chinese  friends  were  extremely  ceremonious,  and 
partial  to  display  and  parade  in  little  matters  to 
the  extent  of  ostentation.  This  humour  was  com- 
plied with,  in  exhibiting  the  letter  of  the  Govo-- 
nor-general.  As  soon  as  it  was  opened,  the  Man- 
darins proceeded  to  inspect  it  minutely,  examin- 
ing by  turns  the  writing,  the  illuminated  paper, 
and  above  all  the  seal  of  the  Governor-general. 
This  being  done,  we  proceeded  jointly,  through 
the  medium  of  a  Portuguese  translation  which 
accompanied  it,  to  render  it  sentence  by  sentence 
into  Cochin  Chinese.  After  this  process  had  gone 
on  a  little  time,  the  deputation  considered  it  un- 
satisfactory, and  begged  that  a  written  transla- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  S25 

tion  in  the  Chinese  character  might  be  effected. 
This  was  done  accordingly.  They  now  examined 
my  credentials,  and  begged  a  Chinese  translation 
of  those  also,  and  they  farther  required  English 
and  Portuguese  copies  of  all  the  documents.  This 
too  was  acceded  to.  On  perusing  the  translation 
in  the  Chinese  character,  the  Mandarins  expressed 
entire  satisfaction  at  the  general  purport  of  the 
letter ;  but  advanced  many  objections  to  particular 
expressions,  which  they  declared  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  submit  to  his  Majesty  the  King  of  Cochin 
China;  the  use  of  them,  they  said,  however  re- 
spectfully meant,  being  against  the  laws  of  the 
country.  For  example,  towards  the  conclusion  of 
the  letter  of  the  Governor-general,  "  His  Excel- 
lency sends  certain  presents  in  token  of  his  pro- 
found respect  and  esteem  for  His  Majesty  the 
Emperor  of  Cochin  China."  This  was  not  to  be 
endured,  because,  as  the  matter  was  explained  to 
us,  profound  respect  and  esteem  must  be  con- 
sidered as  matters  of  course  from  any  one  that 
addressed  His  Majesty  of  Cochin  China.  At  the 
suggestion  of  the  Mandarins,  the  passage  was 
rendered  as  follows :  **  I  send  your  Majesty  cer- 
tain presents,  because  you  are  a  great  King." 
Strong  objection  was  made  to  the  expression  in 
which  His  Excellency  had  disclaimed  any  wish 
fpT  lands  or  fortresses ;  because  it  was  not  to 
be  imagined  for  a  moment  that  any  one  could 
desire  lands  or  fortresses  belonging  to  the  King 


326  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

of  Cochin  China,  and  the  disclaiming  the  wish 
to  obtain  commerdal  faetcnies  alone  was  inserted. 
In  the  letter  of  the  Govemor-general,  His  Majesty 
was  styled  Emperor  of  Anam,  a  common  term 
for  Tonquin  and  Cochin  China;  and  as  it  was 
well  known  that  he  had  conquered  a  great  part 
of  Kamboja,  and,  as  was  asserted  of  Lao,  Sove- 
reign of  these  countries,  also  was  added  to  his 
titles.  This  was  much  objected  to,  and  the 
Alandarins  informed  me  that  it  was  no  honour 
to  the  King  of  Cochm  China  to  be  styled  <'a 
king  of  slaves,"  for  as  such,  it  seems,  the  inhabit* 
ants  of  the  conquered  provihces  are  deemed  by 
the  governing  race,  that  is,  by  the  Anam  nation, 
which  includes  both  Cochin  Chinese  and  Tonqui* 
nese.  After  the  conference  was  ov^,  I  asked  the 
Christian  interpreter,  in  consequence  of  hearing 
this  last  observation,  what  o^nnion  the  Cochin 
Chinese  entertained  of  the  people  of  Kamboja. 
He  had  visited  Bengal,  and  said  without  hesita- 
tion, "  pretty  much  the  same  opinion  that  the 
English  entertain  of  the  black  inhabitants  of 
Hindoostan ! !"  The  whole  of  this  tedious  con* 
ference  lasted  eight  hours.  The  luckless  inter«^ 
preter,  Antonio,  was  so  overcome  vdth  the  intri- 
cacy, not  to  say  the  danger  of  his  part  of  the 
task,  and  the  difficulty  of  pleasing  every  body, 
that  he  declared,  that  to  have  done  it  justice, 
would  have  reqmred  the  head  of  an  elephant ! 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  827 

Sept.  1. — Not  satisfied  with  the  tedious  details 
of  yesterday,  and  the  pains  taken  to  satisfy  his 
Majesty's,  the  King  of  Cochin  China's,  feelings 
in  the  Chinese  translation,  one  of  the  Manda- 
rins returned  this  m<»iiing  to  inform  us,  that,  on 
mature  consideration,  it  was  decided  that  there 
were  still  two  improper  words  in  the  Chinese 
translation.  These  were  accordingly  rectified. 
He  then  informed  us,  that  duplicate  copies  oi 
the  Governor-general's  letter  in  English,  in  Por- 
tuguese, and  in  Chinese ;  of  my  credentials  in  the 
same  languages,  and  duplicates  of  my  letter  to  the 
Governor  of  Saigun  in  English  and  French,  with 
a  Chinese  translation,  also  in  duplicate,  were  far- 
ther wanted.  The. object  of  these  voluminous 
documents  was,  that  one  copy  of  them  might 
be  sent  to  Court,  and  another  kept  at  Saigun. 
They  were  so  particular,  in  regard  to  these  pa- 
pers, that  each  required  my  personal  seal  and  sig- 
nature. 

All  this  was  completed  by  twelve  o'clock,  at 
which  hour  we  set  off  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  town 
of  Saigun,  accompanied  by  Monsieur  Diard.  The 
town  properly  called  Saigun,  is  about  three  miles 
distant  from  the  residence  of  the  Governor  of 
the  province.  It  is  situated  upon  a  small  river, 
navigable  for  good- sized  boats  all  the  way  to 
Kamhoja,  with  which  it  is  the  principal  medium 
of  communication.     Straggling  houses  nearly  join 


S28  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

the  fort  and  residence  of  the  Governor  with 
Saigun.  The  banks  of  the  stream  are  well  cul- 
tivated on  both  sides,  and  extensive  plantations 
of  areca  palm  form  the  principal  object  of  cul- 
ture. At  the  town  of  Saigun  the  river  forms 
many  branches  and  canals.  Over  these  are  bad 
bridges,  consisting  of  one  or  two  planks.  The 
river,  however,  is  usually  ferried  over  in  boats. 
The  regulation  of  these  ferries  is  a  little  singular. 
The  women  alone  pay,  and  all  the  men,  under 
pretext  of  being  the  King's  servants,  that  is, 
public  officers,  pass  freight-free.  A  similar  regu- 
lation exists  in  the  M enam.  The  principal  bazar 
is  a  wide  and  spacious  street.  The  numerous 
shops  were  not  rich,  but  sufficiently  neat.  The 
principal  articles  exposed  for  sale  were  Chinese 
earthenware,  manufactured  silks,  chiefly  of  Ton- 
quin,  and  of  the  place  itself,  and  commonly 
made  up  into  dresses,  paper,  and  great  quantities 
of  amazingly  coarse  tea  from  the  northern  pro- 
vinces, which  had  more  the  appearance  of  broken 
tobacco-leaves  than  real  tea.  There  was  abun- 
dance of  poultry,  including  the  common  fowl, 
ducks,  and  geese,  which  last  are  not  reared  in 
Siam,  and  rarely  in  any  Malay  country,  except 
where  Europeans  reside.  Here  were  also  plenty 
of  hogs,  of  an  excellent  breed.  The  want  of  in- 
tercourse, direct  or  indirect,  with  European  na- 
tions, was  sufficiently  evinced  by  the  general 
absence  of  European  manufactures.    A  few  com- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  S29 

mon  glass-bottles,  and  some  broad  cloth,  were  all 
that  was  to  be  seen. 

Women  alone  attended  in  the  shops.  The  sex 
was  to  be  seen  going  broad  every  where,  with- 
out any  reserve.  Judging  from  the  specimen  we 
saw  to-day,  the  Cochin  Chinese  women  appear 
to  be  well  and  becomingly  attired.  Many  of 
them  were  much  fairer  in  complexion  than  we 
could  have  expected,  and  some  were  handsome, 
making  due  allowance  for  the  peculiarity  of 
their  features,  or  what,  at  least,  is  considered 
such,  according  to  our  notions  of  beauty.  The 
appearance  of  Saigun  is  respectable  for  an  Indian 
town.  A  large  proportion  of  the  houses  are 
covered  with  tiles  instead  of  thatch.  The  houses 
of  the  Chinese  are  all  good,  and  such  as  we 
visited  during  the  day,  spacious,  comfortable, 
and,  after  their  fashion,  well  furnished. 

Our  appearance  excited  a  good  deal  of  curi- 
osity, unaccompanied  however  by  the  slightest 
appearance  of  rudeness.  The  reception  we  met 
with  from  the  Chinese  merchants  was  most  hospi- 
table and  flattering.  Three  of  the  principal  fa- 
milies, without  giving  us  any  previous  notice, 
presented  themselves  at  the  doors  of  their  re* 
spective  houses,  and  invited  us  separately  to  come 
in.  In  each  house  we  found  a  handsome  en- 
tertainment ready  prepared  for  us,  served  up 
with  much  neatness  and  propriety.  Not  satisfied 
with  providing  for  ourselves,  a  board  was  also 


830  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

spread  for  all  who  accompanied  us,  including  our 
Indian  servants  and  Cochin  Chinese  escort.  The 
persons  whose  hospitality  and  urbanity  we  now 
experienced,  were  all  descendants  of  Chinese  long 
settled  in  the  country,  and  in  point  both  of  man- 
ners and  intelligence  were  of  a  very  superior 
order.  The  Chinese  of  Saigun  amount  in  all  to 
between  three  and  four  thousand  in  number. 
They  have  several  temples,  and  that  which  be* 
longs  to  the  Chinese  of  Canton  is  the  hand- 
somest building  of  the  sort  that  I  have  any 
where  seen.  We  returned  about  five  o^dock  in 
the  evening,  well  satisfied  with  our  visit 

Sept  2.— Every  thing  was  arranged  last  night 
for  our  audience,  and,  at  the  desire  of  the  Man- 
darins, a  Chinese  list  of  the  presents,  written 
according  to  the  custom  of  the  country  upon 
a  scrap  of  pink-coloured  paper,  was  transmitted 
Little  previous  arrangement  was  made  for  our 
reception,  or  for  the  ceremonies  we  were  to  per- 
form on  our  introduction;  indeed,  no  stress  ap- 
peared to  be  laid  upon  matters  of  this  last 
description.  Every  thing  being  ready,  about 
half-past  seven  o'clock  I  made  a  demand  for 
the  palanquins  or  elephants  that  were  to  convey 
us.  There  were  none  ready,  and  I  was  given 
to  understand  indirectly,  that  it  was  expected 
we  should  go  on  foot.  I  gave  those  that  commu- 
nicated with  us  to  understand,  that  we  would 
not  move  a  step  without  a  suitable  conveyance. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  831 

and  in  less  than  ten  minutes  five  elephants  were 
produced  to  aceommodate  us.  This  was  evi- 
dently an  attempt  of  some  of  the  lower  Man* 
darins  to  impose  upon  us,  and  I  make  no  question 
was  wholly  unknown  to  the  Governor.  Ahout 
eight  o'cldiek  we  quitted  our  house  for  the  palace^ 
accompanied  hy  thirteen  of  our  attendants,  but 
leaving  the  guard  of  sepoys  behind  us.  Mr,  Fin- 
layson  carried  the  letter  of  the  Governor-general. 
A  number  of  spearmen  on  foot,  and  some 
horsemen  mounted  on  small  spirited  ponies,  si- 
milar to  those  of  the  Indian  islands,  accompanied 
the  procession.  In  about  twenty  minutes  we 
reached  the  fort,  to  which  the  canal,  on  the  banks 
of  which  our  house  was  situated,  leads  by  a 
straight  course,  having  a  good  road  on  each  side 
of  it.  A  great  number  of  spearmen  were  drawn 
out  to  receive  us  along  every  avenue  of  the 
fort  through  which  we  passed,  and  especially  in 
front  of  the  hall  of  audience.  We  did  not  dis- 
moimt  from  our  elephants  until  we  came  within 
a  hundred  yards  of  the  latter.  This  building  was 
quite  open  in  front,  very  long  but  narrow;  and 
entirely  constructed  of  wood,  no  where  either 
varnished  or  painted.  It  was  altogether  a  poor 
place;  and  the  houses  of  the  Chinese,  which 
we  visited  yesterday  at  Saigun,  were  real  palaces 
compared  to  it  It  is  the  custom  of  the  Co- 
chin Chinese  to  sit  either  upon  broad  tables, 
elevated  about  a  foot  and  a  half  from  the  ground, 


332  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

or  upon  platforms  raised  about  eight  or  nine 
inches  from  it ;  those  of  highest  rank,  in  either 
case,  sitting  in  front,  and  those  of  inferior  rank 
behind.  These  benches,  or  platforms,  are  always 
covered  with  handsome  mats.  In  the  middle 
of  the  hall  was  one  of  the  platforms  in  ques- 
tion, somewhat  higher  than  usual,  on  which  the 
Governor  was  seen  sitting.  We  advanced  in 
front  and  made  him  a  bow,  which  was  not 
returned.  Chairs  were  pointed  out  to  us  to  the 
Governor's  right-hand,  of  which  we  took  pos- 
session. On  his  left  was  seated  by  himself  the 
second  in  authority,  a  venerable  and  fine-look- 
ing old  man  about  seventy.  The  rest  of  the 
Governor's  Court  were  seated  on  the  same  side 
with  us,  but  behind  us,  upon  another  platform. 
The  first  in  place  among  these  was  Ong-kwan- 
heng^  the  military  Mandarin  who  had  transacted 
business  with  us.  The  old  Governor  is  by  re- 
pute^ an  eunuch,  but  without  having  been  told 
so,  we  probably  should  not  have  discovered  it. 
He  was,  indeed,  totally  destitute  of  beard ;  but 
the  beards  of  the  Cochin  Chinese  in  general,  al- 
though they  are  fond  of  wearing  them,  are  usually 
very  scanty.  His  voice  also  was  feeble  and  fe^ 
mihine,  but  not  to  so  remarkable  a  degree  as 
to  excite  suspicion. 

This  individual,  who  acted  a  distinguished 
part  in  the  late  wars  and  revolution  of  Cochin 
China,  was,  at   the  period   of  our  visit,  fifty- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  383 

eight  years  of  age.  His  countenance  was  ani- 
mated and  intelligent,  his  person  rather  short 
and  slender,  but  he  appeared  active  and  subject 
to  no  bodily  infirmity  but  the  tooth*ache,  which 
had  deprived  him  of  a  great  part'  of  his  teeth. 
The  other  Mandarins  were  richly  dressed  in 
figured  silk-  The  (Jovemor,  on  the  contrary, 
seemed  to  be  careless  and  indifferent  about  his 
dress,  which  consisted  of  a  plain  black  silk  gown 
and  a  crape  turban  of  the  same  colour. 

He  began  his  conversation  with  us,  by  asking 
how  long  we  had  been  on  our  voyage;  after 
getting  a  reply  to  which,  he  proceeded  at  once 
to  the  main  subject,  and  said  that  the  English 
were  welcome  to  trade  in  Cochin  China,  com* 
plying  with  the  laws  of  the  country;  that  the 
imports  were  not  heavy,  and  that  they  were 
the  same  to  all  nations.  We  answered,  that 
this  was  exactly  what  the  Governor-general  of 
India,  desired,  and  no  more.  The  Governor  add- 
ed, that  if  the  Cochin  Chinese,  for  the  pur- 
poses of  trade,  visited  the  British  dominions^ 
they  must  submit  to  our  laws ;  and  if  we  came 
to  Cochin  China,  we  must  do  the  same  thing. 
It  was  replied,  that  friendship  and  good  un- 
derstanding could  not  exist  among  nations  on 
any  other  terms.  The  Governor  then  observed, 
that  he  would  forward  a  particular  account  of 
our  Mission  to  the  capital,  and  recommend  us 
to  the  Mandarin  of  Elephants,  the  chief  of  the 


334  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

foreign  department.  He  now  observed^  that 
kings  only  wrote  to  kings,  and  that  his  Ma- 
jesty the  King  of  England  should  have  writtei 
to  the  King  of  Cochin  China,  and  that  the  Go- 
vernor-general should  have  addressed  himself  to 
the  Mandarin  of  Elephants.  We  explained,  as 
we  had  done  on  similar  occasions  before,  that 
the  King  of  England  was  at  too  great  a  dis- 
tance to  be  able  conveniently  to  maintain  a  di- 
rect correspondence  with  the  piinces  of  the  East, 
which,  therefore,  was  principally  conducted  by 
the  Governor-general  of  India.  He  answei^, 
that  this  practice  was  totally  contrary  to  the 
customs  of  Cochin  China,  but  that  the  infor- 
mality, on  the  commencement  of  a  friendly  in* 
tercourse,  should  prove  no  obstruction  to  the 
Embassy.  We  now  offered  to  present  his  Ex- 
cellency with  a  few  presents  from  the  Gover- 
nor-general of  India,  and  the  Chinese  list  of 
them  was  read  by  a  secretary.  His  Excellency, 
after  the  list  was  read,  said  that  he  felt  obliged 
to  the  Governor-general  of  India  for  his  polite- 
ness in  sending  presents  to  him ;  but  that  the 
negociation  being  in  a  state  of  abeyance^  he 
could  not  now  with  propriety  accept  of  them; 
but  as  he  hoped  many  English  vessels  would 
visit  Saigun  hereafter,  there  would  be  time 
enough  for  presents.  We  made  no  objection 
whatever  to  this,  which   struck  us  at  the  time 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  835 

as  forming  so  remarkable  a  contrast  with  the  rapa^ 
city  of  the  Siamese  officers  on  similar  occasions. 

We  were  now  asked  when  we  wished  to  leave 
Saigun.  The  time  was  mentioned.  The  Cover- 
nor  answered  that  every  thing  would  be  in  readi- 
ness for  our  accommodation.  We  fully  ex- 
pected that  the  Governor-general's  letter  would 
have  been  opened,  if  only  out  of  curiosity ; 
but  the  Chief  simply  looked  at  it,  without  even 
taking  it  from  its  silk  envelope,  and  politely 
returned  it  immediately,  requesting,  that  as  we 
were  about  to  amuse  ourselves,  it  might  be  sent 
back  to  our  residence;  and  he  ordered,  as  a 
mark  of  respect,  three  caparisoned  elephants  to 
accompany  it.  In  the  course  of  conversation, 
the  Crovemor  asked  my  companions'  age,  and 
my  own.  Our  Indian  servants  and  their  dresses 
excited  his  notice,  as  they  did  that  of  every 
body  else  during  our  visit.  The  Cochin  Chi- 
nese are  total  strangers  to  the  inhabitants  of 
Hindustan,  of  whom  not  an  individual  is  found 
residing  at  Saigun.  Their  persons,  features, 
manners,  and  costume,  therefore,  excited  a  far 
greater  degree  of  curiosity  than  any  thing  re- 
specting ourselves. 

After  tea  was  served  to  us,  we  were  invited 
to  be  present  at  an  elephant  and  tiger  fight; 
and  for  this  purpose  mounted  our  elephants,  and 
repaired    to  the  glacis   of  the  fort,  where  the 


336  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

Gombat  was  to  take  place.     The  GovamOT  went 
out  at  another  gate,  and  arrived  at  the  place 
before  us  in  his   palanquin.      When   the   hall 
broke    up,    a    herald    or  crier    announced   the 
event.      With  the  exception  of  this  ceremony, 
great    propriety    and    decorum    were    observed 
throughout  the  audience.     The  exhibition  made 
by   the   herald,    however,  was   truly  barbarous. 
He  threw  himself  backward,  projecting  his  ab- 
domen, and  putting  his  hands  to  his  sides,  and 
in  this  absurd  attitude  uttered  several  loud  and 
long  yells.      The  tiger  had  been  exhibited  in 
front  of  the  hall,  and  was  driven   to  the  spot 
on  a  hurdle.     A  great  concourse  of  people  had 
assembled  to  witness  the  exhibition.    The  tiger 
was   secured  to  a  stake  by  a  rope   tied  round 
his  loins,  about  thirty  yards  long.     The  mouth 
of  the  unfortunate  animal  was  sewn  up,  and  his 
nails  pulled  out.     He"  was  of  large  size,  and  ex- 
tremely active.     No  less  than  forty-six  elephants, 
all  males   of  great   size,   were  seen   drawn   out 
in  line.     One  at  a  time  was  brought  to  attack 
the  tiger.      The  first  elephant  advanced,   to  all 
appearance  with  a  great  show  of  courage,  and  we 
thought  from  his  determined  look  that  he  would 
certainly  have  dispatched  his  antagonist  in  an  in- 
stant.   At  the  first  effort  he  raised  the  tiger  upon 
his  tusks  to  a  considerable  height,  and  threw  him 
to  the  distance  of  at  least  twenty  feet.     Notwith- 
standing this,  the  tiger  rallied,  and  sprang  upon 


aKd  cochin  china.  387 

the  elephant's  trunk  and  head  up  to  the  very 
keeper^  who  was  upon  his  neck.  The  elephant 
took  alarm,  wheeled  ahout  and  ran  off,  pursued 
by  the  tiger  as  far  as  the  rope  would  allow  him. 
The  fugitive,  although  not  hurt,  roared  most 
piteously,  and  no  effort  could  bring  him  back  to 
the  charge.  A  little  after  this,  we  saw  a  man 
brought  up  to  the  Governor,  bound  with  cords, 
and  dragged  into  his  presence  by  two  officers. 
This  was  the  conductor  of  the  recreant  elephant. 
A  hundred  strokes  of  the  bamboo  were  ordered 
to  be  inflicted  upon  him  on  the  spot.  For  this 
purpose  he  was  thrown  on  his  face  upon  the 
ground^  and  secured  by  one  man  sitting  astride 
upon  his  neck  and  shoulders,  and  by  another  sit- 
ting upon  his  feet,  a  succession  of  executioners 
inflicting  the  punishment.  When  it  was  over, 
two  men  carried  off  the  sufferer  by  the  head  and 
heels,  apparently  quite  insensible.  While  this 
outrage  was  perpetrating,  the  Governor  coolly 
viewed  the  combat  of  the  tiger  and  elephant,  as 
if  nothing  else  particular  had  been  going  forward. 
Ten  or  twelve  elephants  were  brought  up  in  suc- 
cession to  attack  the  tiger,  which  was  killed  at 
last  merely  by  the  astonishing  falls  he  received 
when  tossed  off  the  tusks  of  the  elephants.  The 
prodigious  strength  of  these  animals  was  far  be- 
yond any  thing  which  I  could  have  supposed. 
Some  of  them  tossed  the  tiger  to  a  distance  of 
at  least  thirty  feet,  after  he  was  nearly  lifel^s, 

VOL.  I.  z 


33S  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

and  could  offer  no  resistance.  We  could  not  re« 
fleet  without  horror,  that  these  very  individual 
animals  were  the  same  that  have  for  years  exe- 
cuted the  sentence  of  the  kw  upon  the  many 
malefactors  condemned  to  death.  Upon  these 
occasions  a  single  toss,  such  as  I  have  described, 
is  always,  I  am  told,  sufficient  to  destroy  life. 

After  the  tiger-fight  we  had  a  mock  battle, 
the  intention  of  which  was  to  represent  ele- 
phants charging  an  intrenchment.  A  sort  of 
chevaux  dejrise  was  erected  to  the  extent  of 
forty  or  fifty  yards,  made  of  very  frail  materials. 
Upon  this  was  placed  a  quantity  of  dry  grass, 
whilst  a  show  was  made  of  defending  it,  by  a 
number  of  spearmen  placed  behind.  As  soon 
as  the  grass  was  set  on  fire,  a  number  of  squibs 
and  crackers  were  let  off;  flags  were  waved  in 
great  numbers ;  drums  beat,  and  a  single  piece 
of  artillery  began  to  play.  The  elephants  were 
now  encouraged  to  charge ;  but  they  displayed 
their  usual  timidity,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
fire  was  nearly  extinguished,  and  the  materials 
of  the  chevaux  de  Jfise  almost  consumed,  that 
a  few  of  the  boldest  could  be  forced  to  pass 
through. 

After  these  amusements  were  over,  the  Go- 
vernor begged  us  to  come  near  and  converse 
with  him.  He  wished  to  know  the  predse  time 
we  wanted  to  depart,  and  hearing  that  we  had 
fixed   on   to-m(Hix>w    morning,    was    extremely 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  339 

anxious  that  we  should  put  off  our  journey  for 
a  couple  of  days,  that  we  might  see  more  of 
the  town,  and  ahove  all,  that  he  might  exhibit 
to  us  a  dramatic  entertidnment  We  urged  the 
precarious  state  of  the  monsoon,  and  our  great 
anxiety  to  secure  our  passage  to  Hu^.  Seeing 
that  we  were  intent  on  proceeding  on  our  voy- 
age without  delay,  he  said  that  every  thing 
should  be  ready  for  us  at  as  early  an  hour  as 
we  might  think  proper  to  name.  The  orders 
respecting  our  departure  were  accordingly  given 
on  the  spot,  and  we  had  thus  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  how  such  matters  are  conducted  in 
Cochin  China.  The  (Jovemor  delivered  his  com* 
mands  personally,  in  a  high  tone  of  official  au« 
thority,  and  twelve  or  fourteen  inferior  Man- 
darins received  them  standing  before  him.  As 
soon  as  he  had  done  speaking  they  made  the 
accustomed  obeisance,  which  consisted  in  pros- 
trating themsdves  four  successive  times  upon  the 
ground,  their  faces  being  prevented  from  touch- 
ing the  earth  only  by  their  joined  hands,  which 
were  placed  before  them.  His  Excellency  asked 
what  provisions  we  required  for  ourselves  and 
the  ship's  crew,  and  requested  us  to  specify  them, 
that  our  wants  might  be  fully  supplied.  We 
answered,  that  we  stood  in  need  of  nothing,  but 
made  suitable  acknowledgments  for  this  liberal 
offer.  Having  made  our  bow  we  took  leave,  after 
thanking  him  for  the  polite  and  handsome  re- 

z  2 


S40  .  EMBASSY   TO  STAK 

oeption  he  had  given  us,  and  we  returned  to 
our  residence.  In  our  progress  to  the  Gover- 
nor's palace  and  back,  a  great  crowd  of  the  po* 
pulaee  followed  us.  Their  conduct  was  lively 
and  playful,  but  by  no  means  disrespectful 
The  soldiers  who  accompanied  us  never  inter- 
fered with  them,  as  long  as  they  took  care  not 
to  mix  with  the  procession ;  but  whenever  they 
did,  the  rattan  was  liberally  applied,  and  the  of* 
fenders  retreated,  generally  with  a  hearty  laugh. 
We  had  scarcely  reached  home,  when  one  of 
the  principal  Mandarins  came  with  the  complin 
ments  of  the  (Jovemor,  and  a  present  of  pro- 
visions. These  consisted  of  a  live  buffalo,  a 
hog,. a  quantity  of  poultry,  rice,  and  fruit  This 
Mandarin  informed  us,  that  the  Crovemor,  though 
he  could  not  publicly  accept  of  any  present, 
would  be  happy  to  accept  privately  of  the 
pistols  and  telescope  which  we  had  offered.  I 
returned  my  respects  to  say,  that  I  should  be 
happy  to  send  them.  They  were  not  howevo- 
taken;  the  Governor,  in  lieu  of  them,  request- 
ing we  would  send  him  some  fine  gunpowder, 
on  our  return  to  the  ship,  which  was  done. 
A  little  time  after  this,  arrived,  with  great  cere- 
mony, a  hog  roasted  whole,  with  a  large  quan- 
tity of  dressed  rice,  another  present  from  the 
Governor.  This,  according  to  the  customs  of 
the  country,  is  considered  a  token  of  proflSn^ 
friendship* 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S41 

In  the  afternoon  we  took  an  early  dinner 
with  M.  Diard,  and  viewed  his  collection  of 
animals.  From  this  gentleman  we  received 
many  marks  of  civility  and  attention,  during 
our  short  residence  at  Saigun.  In  the  evening 
we  went  through  the  markets  and  town  of  Pin- 
geh,  for  this  is  the  proper  name  of  the  Go- 
vemor  s  residence.  The  streets  for  an  Indian 
town  are  wide  and  regular,  and  the  bazars  well 
supplied  with  every  thing  necessary  to  the  com* 
fort  of  the  people  according  to  their  notions. 
We  visited  a  pretty,  gaudy,  little  Cochin  Chi- 
nese temple,  dedicated  to  the  Chinese  form  of 
worship.  We  expected  to  have  found  many  tem- 
ples of  Buddha,  in  a  place  so  near  to  those  coun- 
tries where  his  religion  is  universal,  but  hitherto 
we  had  met  none.  As  we  passed  along  one  of 
the  streets  in  this  excursion,  our  curiosity  was  ex- 
cited by  observing  two  persons  in  violent  alterca- 
tion. They  were  sitting  upon  the  ground,  and 
one  had  a  hold  of  the  waistband  of  the  other 
from  behind.  This  last  was  a  woman,  who 
charged  her  prisoner,  an  eunuch,  as  we  were  in- 
formed, with  defrauding  her  of  some  property. 
This  was  according  to  a  custom  of  the  country. 
When  one  person  charges  another  with  an  of- 
fence, he  has  only  to  lay  hold  of  him  or  her 
by  the  waistband,  and  the  law  expects  that  the 
accused  shall  forthwith  submit  to  this  species  of 
arrest  without  offering  any  resistance^ 


848  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

Sept  8. — At  six  this  morning,  the  hour  ap- 
pointed for  our  departure,  every  thing  was  ready 
for  our  accommodation,  with  a  punctuality  any 
thing  but  Oriental,  and  we  left  Saigim  with  the 
same  number  of  boats  and  attendants  with  which 
we  had  come  to  it.  The  river  of  Saigun,  whidi 
is  called  by  the  natives  the  Saong,  does  not 
appear  to  me  to  be  quite  so  broad  as  the  Me- 
nam,  but  it  is  broad  enough  for  all  useful  pur- 
poses, and  so  deep  and  free  from  dangers  every 
where,  that  the  largest  ships  may  go  with  per- 
fect security  up  to  the  city,  and  much  farther 
if  it  were  necessary.  Its  banks,  for  twenty-five 
miles  below  the  city,  are  one  extensive  sheet  of 
rice  cultivation,  but  from  thence  to  the  sea  the 
water  is  salt,  and  unfit  for  irrigation  or  cul- 
ture, apd  the  country  is  extremely  low,  and 
covered  by  a  forest  of  undersized  trees,  fit  for 
no  purpose  but  fire-wood.  At  eight  o'clock  we 
came  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  which  leads  to 
Dong-nai,  a  considerable  town  about  two  days' 
journey  from  Saigun,  which  gives  name  to  the 
whole  province.  The  river  of  Dong-nai  is  na- 
vigable for  vessels  of  considerable  burden.  About 
fifteen  miles  before  coming  to  Kandyu,  there 
is  the  mouth  of  another  considerable  river,  to 
the  same  side  which  leads  to  a  place  called 
Bariya,  towards  the  hills  which  are  visible  to 
the  east.  Here  there  are  said  to  be  manufac- 
tories of  silk.    We  reached  the  ship  between 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S4S 

four  and  five  o'clock,  the  whole  voyage  having 
taken  up  little  more  than  ten  hours,  and  hav- 
ing proved  a  very  agreeable  one.  Neither  in 
ascending  nor  descending  the  river  did  we  ob- 
serve any  defences  whatever.  The  smallest  ves- 
sel of  war  might,  therefore,  go  up  to  the  city 
without  a  pilot,  and  destroy  it  without  risk  or 
opposition. 

The  city  of  Saigun  is,  as  I  think  I  have  al- 
ready mentioned,  about  fifty  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  place  consists  of  two  distinct  towns,  at  the 
distance  of  three  miles  from  each  other.    Pingeh, 
the  seat  of  the  Governor  and  of  the  citadel,  lies 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  great  river,  and  Sai- 
gun, properly  so  called,  is  situated  upon  a  small 
river,  which  communicates  directly  with   Pin- 
geh.    Saigun  is  the  principal  seat  of  commerce, 
and  the  residence  of  the  Chinese  and  other  mer- 
chants, though  the  river  on  which  it  lies  is  na- 
vigable only  for  small  craft,  and  the  larger  junks 
all  lie  before  ]Pingeh.     This  seems  to  be  a  mat* 
ter  of  very  little  inconvenience,  where  the  navi» 
gation  is  always  so  sure  and  easy  for  cargo-boats. 
These  two  towns  are  nearly  about  the  same  size, 
but   I  could  not  gain  any  specific  information 
respecting  the  amount  of  their  population.    Du- 
ring the  period  we  were  at  Saigun,  the  whole  of 
the  junks  for  the  northward  and  eastward  were 
absent,  having  sailed  on  their  respective  voy- 
ages, and  there  remained   only  six  junks   for 


344  EHBAS^nr  TO  SIAM 

the  Straits  of  Malacca  and  Siam.  As  we  saw 
Bang-kok,  it  certainly  presented  a  far  busier 
scene  of  commerce  than  Saigun,  and  its  actual 
commerce  is  indeed  much  superior.  B;  the  ac- 
counts we  obtained  at  the  latter  place,  the  actual 
foreign  commerce  of  the  place  amounts  to  no 
more  than  between  7  and  8000  tons. 

The  citadel  of  Saigun,  or  rather  of  Pingeb,  is, 
in  form,  a  parallelogram,  distant  from  half  a  mile 
to  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  western 
bank  of  the  river,  the  principal  part  of  the  town 
intervening.  I  conjecture,  from  appearance,  that 
the  longest  side  of  the  square  may  be  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  original  plan  ap- 
pears to  have  been  European,  but  left  incomplete. 
It  has  a  regular  glacis,  an  esplanade,  a  dry  ditch  of 
considerable  breadth,  and  regular  ramparts  and 
bastions.  With  the  exception  of  the  four  prin- 
cipal gateways,  the  whole  of  the  fortress  is  con- 
structed of  earth,  now  covered  every  where  with 
a  green  sward.  There  are  no  guns  mounted 
any  where,  though  there  be  several  hundred  ly- 
ing in  the  arsenal.  The  gates  consist  of  four 
large  and  as  many  small  ones.  The  large  gate- 
ways are  biiilt  of  stone  and  lime,  and  are  very 
substantially  constructed,  although  a  Chinese 
tower,  with  a  double-canopied  roof  gives  them 
a  grotesque  and  unmilitary  appearance.  The 
approach  to  them  is  by  a  zig-zag  in  the  glads, 
and  they  are  connected  with  the  counterscarp 
by  a  mound,  without  any  drawbridge.     The  two 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  345 

angles  of  the  fort  which  came  within  our  view 
were  protected  by  horn-works.  The  fortress, 
as  it  now  stands,  is  not  capable  of  r^ular  de- 
fence. One  angle  of  it  approaches  so  near  to 
the  river,  that  a  ship  of  war  might  breach  it 
in  a  few  hours.  The  interior  is  neatly  laid 
out  and  dean,  and  presents  an  appearance  of 
Eiu'opean  order  and  arrangement.  The  prin- 
cipal buildings  consist  of  the  officersV  quarters, 
barracks,  arsenals,  and  the  residence  of  the  Go- 
vernor. There  is  a  good  parade,  and  the  place 
is  not  incumbered,  as  usually  happens  in  Indian 
fortifications,  with  a  motley  assemblage  of  huts, 
sheds,  and  petty  buildings.  The  late  Eang 
made  this  place  the  seat  of  his  Government 
during  the  rebellion,  but  on  recovering  the 
northern  provinces  he  removed  to  the  old  capital. 
Saigun  proved  to  us  a  far  more  agreeable  re- 
sidence than  Bang-kok,  and  I  have  no  doubt 
that  the  character  of  the  people,  and  the  nature 
of  the  country  itself,  would  always  render  it  so 
to  any  European  visitor.  The  average  of  the 
thermometer  at  noon,  during  our  six  days*  stay, 
was  81**.  Venomous  and  troublesome  insects, 
the  plague  of  all  hot  and  low  countries,  are 
fewer  at  Saigun  than  it  is  easy  to  imagine  in 
such  a  situation.  We  saw  few  ants  or  flies 
while  we  were  there,  and  mosquitoes  were  so 
little  troublesdtae  that  we  might  have  slept 
with  little  inconvenience  without  gauze  curtains. 
This  could  not  be  ascribed  to  the  season,,  for 


846  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

it  was  the  very  height  of  the  rdns,  when  insects 
are  always  most  abundant;  nor  to  our  situation, 
for  we  were  upon  the  very  banks  of  a  canal 
wliich  was  always  dry  at  low-water.  The  mar- 
kets afford  the  necessaries  and  even  comfcxts 
of  life  in  great  plenty  and  cheapness.  For  hogs 
and  for  poultry,  the  latter  consisting  of  geese, 
ducks,  and  common  fowls,  the  soil  and  climate 
appear  to  be  peculiarly  favourable.  A  hog 
wdgfaing  200lb.  may  be  had  for  seven  Spanish 
dollars,  which  is  less  than  twopence  a  pound; 
ducks  and  common  fowls  are  found  in  greater 
perfection  here  than  in  any  other  part  of  India, 
being  remarkable  both  for  size  and  flavour.  The 
first,  which  are  in  great  demand  among  the 
Cochin  Chinese  themselves,  may  be  had  eight 
for  a  Spanish  dollar;  and  of  fowls,  which  are 
hardly  ever  eaten  by  the  natives,  twenty-four 
or  twenty-five  may  be  had  for  the  same  mo- 
ney. The  latter  are  all  of  the  game  breed.  The 
Cochin  Chinese  are  great  cock-fighters;  his 
Excellency,  the  present  Governor,  fights  codks 
regul^ly  twice  a  month,  and  invites  the  chiefs 
to  be  present.  Goats  are  in  considerable  num- 
bers, and  the  sheep,  an  animal  which  seldom 
thrives  in  the  damp  climates  near  the  Equator, 
thrives  tolerably  at  Saigun.  The  race  is  a  smaU 
hardy  breed,  similar  to  that  of  Lower  Bengal. 
They  are  much  more  cheap  and  abundant,  how- 
ever, I  am  given  to  understand, 'at  Kang-kao 
in  Eamboja  than  at  Saigun.      The  buffalo  and 


ilNb  COCHIN   CHINA.  847 

the  ox  are  both  of  them  very  good  and  very 
cheap,  and  maybe  had, in  any  quantity.  The 
.Variety  and  the  excellence  of  the  fish  can  scarcely 
be  equalled.  Besides  river-fish,  great  quantities 
of  sea-fish  are  brought  up  fresh  for  the  market 
of  Saigun ;  the  largest  kind  being  conveyed  by 
dragging  them  after  the  boats,  and  the  smaller 
in  wells  in  their  bottoms.  During  our  short 
stay,  we  were  daily  supplied  from  the  ordinary 
markets,  with  the  three  best  fish  which  the 
Indian  seas  afford,  the  cockup,  the  pomfret,  and 
the  mango  fish,  all  exquisite  in  their  kind.  There 
are  however,  besides  the  articles  now  enume- 
rated, others  exhibited  for  sale  in  the  market  of 
.Saigun,  not  so  well  suited  to  the  European  taste, 
«uch  as  the  flesh  of  dogs  and  alligators.  These, 
indeed,  are  in  little  esteem,  and  not  eaten  by 
persons  of  any  consideration.  The  first  day 
we  arrived,  we  saw  two  whole  alligators  car- 
ried upon  men's  shoulders  to  the  market,  and 
afterwards  frequently  saw  the  flesh  of  this  ani- 
mal cut  up  in  large  junks,  and  exposed  for 
sale  in  the  stalls  and  booths.  The  price  of 
rice,  when  we  were  at  Saigun,  was  a  dollar  a 
picul.  This  was  considered  extravagantly  high. 
For  fruit,  the  season  of  our  visit  was  the  most 
unfavourable  in  all  tropical  countries  to  the  north 
of  the  Equator.  We  found,  however,  abundance 
of  oranges,  and  plenty  of  ordinary  fruits,  such 
as  pumplenoses,  bananas,  and  custard-apples.  In 
their  proper  seasons,  I  am  told,  that  the  mango. 


848  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

the  lichiy  and  orange,  are  in  great  perfection ;  but, 
updn  the  whole,  Saigun,  for  variety  of  fruits,  is 
far  inferior  to  Bang-kok.  Neither  the  mangostin 
nor  the  durian,  so  abundant  in  the  Malay  coun- 
tries to  the  south  of  Saigun,  and  in  Siam  to  the 
north  of  it,  are  found  here.  Whether  this  has 
arisen  from  carelessness,  or  real  unsuitableness  of 
soil  and  climate,  we  could  not  learn ;  but,  in  all 
probability,  to  the  former.* 

Sept  4. — Early  this  morning,  Antonio,  the 
Portuguese  interpreter,  who  had  come  down  with 
us  from  Saigun,  came  on  board,  bringing  us  a 
small  present  of  fruit  from  the  Chief  of  Kandyu. 
He  received  a  sum  of  money  and  a  piece  of  doth 
for  his  services.  The  amount  of  the  donation, 
although  far  from  extravagant,  surprised  him  ex- 
ceedingly ;  for  persons  in  his  situation  are  miser- 
ably rewarded  in  Cochin  China.  He  begged  for 
a  certificate  of  his  skill  aiid  good  conduct,  which 
he  might  present  to  English  merchants  frequent- 
ing the  place ;  for  on  the  visits  of  strangers,  he 
said,  his  fortune  depended.  This  favoiu*  was  rea- 
dily granted.  He  took  this  opportunity  of  in- 
forming us,  that  his  pursuit  was  a  very  difficult 
and  critical  one,  and  that  even  since  our  arrival 
he  had  been  in  constant  terror  of  the  bamboo, 
which  he  complimented  us  by  saying  he  had 
escaped  through  our  discretion.  When  the  two 
American  ships  visited  Saigun  about  a  year  be- 

*   At  Singapore  we  afterwards  received  occasional  supplies 
itom  Saigun  of  the  largest  and  finest  oranges  I  ever  saw» 


AND   COCHIN   CHIKA. 


349 


fore,  he  told  us  he  had  received  fifty  strokes 
for  an  error  in  judgment  respecting  the  delivery 
of  a  certain  supply  of  rice  to  one  of  the  ships  in 
question. 

At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  set  sail, 
and  at  ten  passed  Cape  St.  James  with  a  strong 
and  favourable  breeze.  When  about  two  and  a 
half  miles  to  the  east  of  it,  and  pursuing  the 
course  laid  down  in  the  common  nautical  direc- 
tions, we  came  suddenly  upon  the  edge  of  a  sand- 
bank and  struck  soundings  in  two  and  a  half  fa* 
thoms  water,  nearly  the  ship's  draft.  We  imme- 
diately hauled  up,  and,  steering  a  westerly  course, 
were  soon  out  of  danger.  This  shoal  is  not  laid 
down  either  in  the  charts  of  M.  Dayot  or  Cap- 
tain Ross.  At  night  we-  had  heavy  squalls  and 
much  rain,  and  were,  notwithstanding,  compelled 
to  pass  through  the  channel  between  Cow  Island 
and  the  De  Brito  Shoal.  This  last  has  its  name 
from  a  Portuguese  navigator,  who  suffered  ship- 
wreck upon  it. 


Cochin  Chinese  Sute  ^ohi. 


S50  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Vajrage  along  the  Coast  of  Cochin  China.— Acoonnt  of  iti 
Harbours. — ArriTal  in  Touran  Harbour. — Visit  from  the  dvil 
Mandarin  of  the  place. — Description  of  the  Town  of  Touran. 
— The  Mission  receives  a  Letter  and  Presents  from  the  Go- 
vernor of  Fai-fo.^  Visits  made  to  the  Villages  in  the  oeigfa* 
bonrhood  of  Tonran. — Invitation  to  the  Court.— Voyage  to 
Hnd,  the  Cochin  Chinese  Capital,  and  arrival  there. 

Sept  5.— To-day,  at  noon,  we  were  in  latitude 
11"*  26',  after  passing  Cape  Pandaran,  considered 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  of  Cochin  Chinese  navi- 
gation, on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  weathering 
it,  and  the  heavy  sea  which  rolls  in  upon  it, 
owing  to  its  exposed  situation,  the  coast  imme- 
diately changing  its  direction  after  passing  it, 
and  trending  suddenly  to  the  north.  All  the  way 
from  Cape  St.  James,  there  was  nothing  but  high 
coast,  and  many  chains  of  mountains  running  in 
a  north-east  and  south-west  direction.  The  shores, 
in  many  situations,  consist  of  sand-hills  —  the 
mountains  are  covered  with  a  scanty  forest,  and 
the  whole  aspect  of  the  coast  is  that  of  great 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  351 

Sterility.  Thus  far  the  south-west  monsoon  blew 
strong  and  steady,  and  we  sailed,  with  little  ex- 
ception, between  eight  and  nine  knots  an  hour, 
during  the  last  twenty-four. 

Sept.  6. — Yesterday  afternoon  we  lost  the  mon- 
soon, were  becalmed  at  night— had  a  regular  land- 
wind,  and  to^ay  a  sea-breeze.  The  coast  was^ 
here  extremely  bold,  and  the  country  as  far  as 
we  could  see  very  mountainous;  the  peaks  of 
some  hills  appearing  to  be  not  short  of  three 
thousand  feet  high.  The  coast  of  Cochin  China, 
after  passing  Cape  Pandaran,  becomes  a  great  deal 
more  broken  and  indented, — has  small  islands 
scattered  along  it,  and  abounds  with  ports  and 
harbours,  perhaps  beyond  any  other  country  in 
the  world.  To-day,  at  noon,  we  were  in  latitude 
12'  6^,  having  the  bay  of  Ya-trang  within  a  few 
miles  of  us.  This,  which  is  protected  by  the 
large  island  Tre,  forms  a  good  harbour.  A  river 
which  falls  into  it,  and  is  navigable  for  vessels 
drawing  seven  and  eight  feet  water,  conducti 
to  the  town  of  Ya-trang,  which  gives  name  to 
the  bay.  At  this  place  the  late  King  caused  a 
fortification  to  be  constructed,  after  the  Euro^ 
pean  manner,  under  the  direction  of  M.  Olivier, 
a  French  engineer.  The  place  was  besieged  in 
the  years  1794  and  1795,  by  the  rebel  brothers, 
the  Tysuns,  and  relieved  by  the  Eang's  fleeti 
after  a  siege  of  six  months*  It  is  well  situated^ 
and  commands  the  province  of  Ya-trang  and  the 


352  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

neighbouring  ones.  This  place  is  the  entrep6t 
of  the  commerce  of  all  this  part  of  the  country^ 
and  the  seat  of  considerable  manufactories  of 
silk.  It  is  four  days'  long  journeys  by  land 
from  Saigun,  and  five  from  the  capital. 

Sept  7. — Yesterday  evening  we  passed  the  bar* 
hour  of  Kon-koe,  represented  by  M.  Dayot  as  a 
very  fine  one;  but  at  which  a  few  fishermen 
only  reside.  Early  this  morning,  we  were  off 
Cape  Varela,  the  most  remarkable  point  of  Cochin 
Chinese  navigation.  The  mountain  forming  the 
Cape,  seems  to  be  between  fifteen  hundred  and 
two  thousand  feet  high.  On  one  of  the  peaks 
is  a  remarkable  rock,  representing  the  appear*- 
ance  of  a  huge  broken  and  falling  column; 
which  is  seen  from  fifteen,  to  eighteen  leagues 
distant,  either  from  the  north  or  south.  This 
mountain  has  the  reputation  of  containing  veins 
of  silver,  and  is  known  to  contain,  at  about 
half  its  height,  a  hot-spring  of  remarkably  high 
temperature.  Immediately  after  passing  Cape 
Varela,  the  land  recedes,  and  the  coast  is  mudi 
less  elevated.  This  recess  forms  the  great  bay 
of  Fu-yin.  In  this  bay  is  situated  the  finest  port 
in  all  Cochin  China,  and  which  consists  of  three 
distinct  harbours,  all  represented  as  excellent. 
The  province  of  Fu-yin  which  gives  name  to 
the  bay  and  port,  is  the  finest  in  Cochin  China.  In 
entering  the  harbour,  according  to  M.  Dayot,  the 
prospect  is  highly  pleasing.     The  land  is  culti* 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  S5S 

vated  froxa  the  sea-side  all  the  way  to  the  tops  of 
the  hills,  and  the  country  every  where  inter- 
spersed with  houses  and  cottages,  giving  to  the 
whole  the  appearance  of  one  extensive  garden. 
From  the  rugged  mountains  with  which  the 
coast  is  hound,  so  rich  a  country  could  scarcely 
be  looked  for.  Rice  is  the  great  object  of  cul- 
ture in  the  province  of  Fu-yin,  as,  indeed,  in 
every  tropical  country  of  the  East  distinguished 
for  fertility.  The  town  of  Fu-yin  is  about  four 
short  days'  journey  by  land  from  Hue.  Our 
Chinese  interpreter,  who  had  travelled  from  Sai- 
gun  to  the  capital,  stated  that  the  road  from  Fu- 
yin  as  far  as  Hu^  was  excellent;  but  that  that 
from  Fu-yin  to  Saigun  was  mountainous  and 
difficult; 

We  had  now  regular  land  and  sea-breezes. 
Our  latitude  at  noon  was  18^  In  the  morning 
early,  we  could  count,  coasting  close  to  the  shore, 
thirteen  small  junks,  of  from  five  to  seven  hun- 
dred piculs  burthen,  returning,  as  we  were  in- 
formed, from  the  Capital  to  Saigun,  after  dis- 
charging their  cargoes  of  rice,  and  other  articles 
of  revenue  and  contribution. 

Sept  8.— In  the  course  of  the  night,  we  pass- 
ed the  harbour  of  Kwinnyon  (Quin-hone,)  about 
the  latitude  13**  41'.  This  place  is  accessible  only 
to  vessels  drawing  no  more  than  three  or  three 
and  a-half  fathoms  water.  Its  principal  pro- 
tection is  formed  by  a  narrow  tongue  of  land, 

VOL.  I.  2  a 


854  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

about  four  miles  in  extent,  wfaidi  is  fortified. 
Within  fifteen  miles  of  the  port  is  a  city  oi  the 
same  name,  before  the  late  rebellion  a  place  of 
great  trade*  A  river  nearly  connects  it  with 
the  port,  and  a  numbor  of  other  small  rivos 
fall  into  the  latter,  which  give  great  facilities 
to  the  communication  between  the  harbour  and 
the  country.  Lying  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
kingdom,  Kwin^nyon  is  looked  upon  as  of  much 
importance  by  the  Cochin  Chinese,  but  does  not 
appear  at  present  to  be  a  place  of  any  consi- 
derable trade.  The  vicinity  is  a  country  of  ex- 
tensive rice  culture.  M.  Dayot  itafomis  us,  that 
it  was  here,  m  the  year  179S>  that  the  late  King 
obtained  a  signal  and  decisive  victory  over  the 
rebel  brothers,  capturing  six  ships  of  war,  ninety 
large  galleys,  and  upwards  of  a  hundred  of  in- 
ferior size,  and  three  hundred  and  thirty-seven 
pieces  of  artillery,  of  which  forty-six  were  good 
brass  cannon.  Kwin-nyon  is  three  long  days' 
journey  by  land  from  the  Capital  The  coast 
still  preserved  th^  same  appearance  of  low  hills 
after  passing  Varella  Point,  but  appeared  less 
rude  and  rugged  than  that  to  the  south.  Our 
latitude  at  noon  was  14^  SO',  nearly  in  the  pa- 
rallel of  Tang-kw;An,  in  the  river  of  which  the 
late  Eang,  in  1793,  obtained  another  and  final 
naval  victory  over  the  rebel  brothers,  capturing 
axty  galleys.  Land  and  seaF-breezes  ccmtmued 
regularly. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  865 

Sept.  10. — ^We  had  nothing  on  the  8th  and 
9th  but  cahns  and  light  airs.  We  were  to-day, 
at  12  o'clock,  in  the  latitude  of  15^ .  14',  m  the 
channel  between  the  main  and  Pulo  Canton, 
called  Callao  Rai  by  the  Cochin  Chinese.  This 
island  appears  to  be  about  four  miles  in  length, 
and  consists  of  a  tract  of  low  land,  with  three 
distinct  hills  running  through  its  length.  It  is, 
although  apparently  not  rich,  well  cultivated,  and 
well  peopled.  The  appearance  of  the  main-land 
is  here  much  changed.  There  is  an  extensive 
tract  of  low  land,  interspersed  with  rising  grounds 
between  the  sea  and  the  high-land,  and  this 
last  appears  to  be  cultivated  and  inhabited. 
Nearer  the  shore  there  are  extensive  downs,  with 
only  a  tuft  of  trees  here  and  there.  We  counted 
off  the  coast,  this  morning,  about  ninety  Ashing- 
boats,  all  of  good  si^e,  and  under*  sail.  This 
seemed  to  show  that  we  were  in  the  vicinity  of 
a  populous  country. 

Sept.  12.' — Calms  and  light  winds  still  continued 
to  prevail.  Last  evening  we  passed  through  the 
clbster  of  islands  called  Cham  Calao,  which  lie 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  point  which  forms 
the  northern  entrance  of  Touran  harbour.  This 
group  consists  of  eight  islands,  of  which  one  only 
is  of  considerable  size,  probably  four  miles  in 
length.  Their  aspect  is  bold  and  barren,  covered 
with  a  low  wood,  and  exhibiting,  both  on  the 
sh(»«  and  throughout  their  surfaces,   the  huge 

2  A  2 


356  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

bare  masses  of  rock.  All  these  islands  are  un- 
cultivated, but  in  a  bay  lying  on  the  south-west 
side  of  the  great  island,  there  is  a  small  village 
of  fishermen.  A  strong  current  running  through 
the  channel,  between  the  Cham  Islands  and 
the  main,  and  which  was  adverse  to  us,  com- 
pelled us  early  at  night  to  come  to  an  an- 
chor. .At  daylight  this  morning  we  weighed^ 
and  stood  on  our  course.  We  counted  forty 
fishing-boats  which  had  come  out  of  the  river  of 
Fai-fo  as  we  ran  close  along  the  coast.  These 
were  of  a  di£Eerent  construction  and  equipment 
from  the  neater  vessels  which  we  had  seen  near 
Saigun.  The  latter  had  two  masts,  which  raked 
much  aft,  and  lug-sails ;  the  former  had  three 
masts,  with  a  small  sail  on  each,  and  a  fourth 
between  the  main  and  foremast. 

Sept  15. — Light  airs  and  calms,  and  an  ad- 
verse current  running  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour,  baffled  all  our  efforts  to  gain  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbour  of  Touran  until  yesterday 
afternoon,  when  a  favourable  sea-breeze  of  a  few 
hours'  continuance  enabled  us  to  accomplish  our 
object.  In  the  evening  we  anchored  ofi^  the  great 
ciBipe  which  forms  the  southern  entrance  of  the 
harbour.  This  morning  being  calm,  a  party  land- 
ed to  examine  the  coast,  which  was  within  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  us.  The  ridge  of  mountains 
of  which  it  is  composed  is  not  less  Umn  1400 
feet  high,,  and  its  accKvity  very  steep.      The 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  ^57 

shore  itself  is  so  bold,  and  the  swell  of  the  sea 
was  so  considerable,  although  a  calm,  that  land- 
ing was  a  matter  of  some  difficulty  and  even 
peril.  No  rock  was  to  be  seen  but  granite  of  a 
grey  colour  and  small  grained,  exhibiting  fre- 
quent embedded  masses  of  mica  and  quartz. 
The  forest  which  covers  the  mountains  is  very 
stunted,  and  fit  for  no  purpose  but  fire- wood. 
A  number  of  wood-cutters  were  close  at  hand, 
employed  in  felling  it  for  this  purpose,  and  se- 
veral boats  were  loading  with  it  on  the  coast. 
In  a  very  short  search  we  obtained  a  number  of 
interesting  and  beautiful  plants,  differing  entirely 
from  what  our  travels  had  yet  afforded  us,  and 
indicating  plainly  that  we  had  arrived  in  a  new 
vegetable  zone.  The  sea-breeze  sprung  up  about 
ten  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  we  got,  with 
great  facility,  into  the  harbour,  where  we  an- 
chored between  twelve  and  one  o'clock.  The 
harbour  of  Touran  is  spacious,  secure,  and  easily 
defended.  It  is  completely  land-locked.  Two- 
thirds  of  the  circumference  of  the  bay  is  form- 
ed by  an  amphitheatre  of  mountains,  the  feet 
of  which  are  washed  by  the  sea,  and  some  of 
the  peaks  appear  to  be  not  less  than  2000  feet 
high.  To  the  south-east  side  alone  the  moun- 
tains are  wanting,  and  here  is  the  seat  of  cul- 
ture and  population,  and  where  lies  the  arm  of 
the  sea  or  gullet  which  conducts  to  Fai-fo. 
We  saluted  the  fort,  after  anchoring,  with 


358  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

twenty-one  guns,  which  was  returned  with  three. 
At  half-past  two  o'clock,  a  Mandarin  came  on 
board.  This  was  the  Civil  Chief  of  the  place. 
His  appearance  was  respectable,  and  his  mamiCT 
unassuming.  He  informed  us  that  he  and  the 
Military  Mandarin  were  only  deputies  of  the 
Governor  of  Fai-fo  or  rather  Fuchim,  for  this 
last  is  the  name  of  the  duef  town  and  province, 
and  that  it  was  necessary  for  him  to  make  a  rer 
port  of  our  arrival  to  this  officer;  for  which 
purpose  he  requested  a  list  of  the  persons  com- 
posing the  Mission, — of  the  ships,  crew,  &c.  The 
list  had  been  prepared  beforehand  in  Chinese, 
and  was  immediately  put  into  his  hands.  The 
questions  put  by  this  visitor  were  neither  nu- 
merous nor  importunate.  Qe  wished  to  know, 
as  others  did,  whethcfr  the  Mission  was  from 
the  King  of  England,  or  the  Governor-general 
of  India.  We  satisfied  him  upon  this  subject, 
and  gave  him  a  similar  explanation  to  tiiat  which 
I  had  occasion  to  give  at  Saigun«  He  said, 
that  in  three  days  there  would  be  an  answer 
from  the  Governor  of  Fai-fo,  and  that  he  hoped 
in  ten  days  more  we  should  be  invited  to  the 
Court.  This  person,  who  had  visited  China, 
spoke  the  Chinese  dialect  of  the  province  of 
Canton  fluently^ ;  and  as  our  Chinese  intarpreter 
was  a  native  of  that  part  of  China,  we  had  an 
easy  means  of  communicating  with  him. 
Sept.  16. — M.  Borel,  a  French  gentleman,  who 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S&9 

had  a  commercial  establishment  at  Touran,  an4 
who,  with  his  brother,  were  the  only  Europeans 
at  the  place,  paid  us  a  yisit  this  forenoon.  M. 
Borel  informed  us,  that  our  visit  to  Saigun  had 
been  known  for  the  last  six  days  at  Court,  and 
that,  of  course,  our  arrival  was  every  hour  ex- 
pected. 

Sept  19. — ^Yesterday  forenoon  we  had  a  visit 
from  the  Civil  Mandarin  of  Touran,  the  same 
person  who  had  come  on  board  the  first  day  of 
our  arrivaL  We  thought  he  had  brought  some 
decisive  answer  frcnn  the  Governor  of  Fai-fo; 
but  the  visit,  ostensibly  at  least,  was  one  of  mere 
ceremony.  He  entered  into  very  familiar  con- 
verse with  us,  asking  many  questions  respecting 
the  ship,  hef  cannon,  equipment,  fiec  At  his 
particular  desire,  he  was  shown  every  part  of  the 
vessel. 

In  consequence  of  an  invitation  from  our  visi- 
tor, I  went  on  shore  to-day  with  Mr.  Finlayson 
and  Mr.  Rutherford,  to  pay  him  a  visit.  The 
village  of  Toumn  is  a  little  way  up  the  creek 
which  leads  to  Fai-fo,  on  the  right-hand  as  you 
enter  it.  At  the  angle  formed  between  the  sea 
and  the  river«  there  is  a  neat  earthen  redoubt ; 
and  on  the  opposite  side,  but  a  good  way  back, 
are  two  more.  The  ramparts  of  all  these  re- 
doubts were  manned  with  armed  men — a  spear- 
man and  a  musqueteer  being  alternately  posted. 
This  was  done  in  compliment  to  us.    After  being 


360  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

presented  with  a  dessert  of  sweetmeats  and  tea, 
at  the  public  hall  where  the  Mandarin  met  us, 
we  were  sent  with  proper  guides  to  see  the  vil- 
lage and  its  market.  It  is  superior  to  what  I 
expected,  and  is  probably  greatly  improved  since 
the  time  of  Lord  Macartney's  visit,  in  1793. 
The  creek,  on  which  it  is  situated,  is  about  two 
hundred  yards  broad  at  its  entrance,  and  pro- 
bably half  as  much  at  the  village.  Within  there 
is  every  where  a  sufficient  depth  of  water ;  but 
it  is  obstructed  at  its  mouth  by  a  bar  of  sand, 
on  which  there  is  no  more  than  six  feet  at  the 
highest  spring-tides,  and  it  is  often  bare  at  low 
water.  The  whole  of  this  part  of  the  country, 
including  the  site  of  the  village,  is  nothing  but 
a  plain  of  sand,  over  which  there  is  here  and 
there  a  little  scanty  soil.  The  place  is  dry,  and, 
I  should  suppose,  generally  healthy ;  for  there 
are  no  noisome  mud  flats,  or  other  obvious 
sources  of  insalubrity,  near  it— the  shore  and 
even  banks  of  the  river  consisting  every  where 
of  nothing  but  hard,  clean  sand.  The  market 
appeared  to  be  well  supplied  with  every  thing 
necessary  to  the  comfort  of  the  people.  Fish, 
poultry,  rice,  pulses,  and  coarse  tea,  were  in 
abundance.  All  the  venders  and  the  greater 
proportion  of  the  buyers  were  women.  Euro- 
peans are  by  no  means  such  strangers  here 
as  at  Saigun,  and  therefore  our  appearance  ex- 
cited no  particular  curiosity.      The  inhabitants 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S6l 

were  every  where,  however,  remarkable  for  their 
civility  and  good  humour.  The  distance  from 
the  village  to  the  anchorage  cannot  be  less  than 
three  miles;  which  is  an  inconvenience  to  trade. 
We  now  met  no  obstruction  or  inconvenience  in 
our  intercourse  with  the  people,  which  was  as 
unconstrained  as  we  could  desire.  Fishing-boats 
were  constantly  alongside  of  the  ship. 

Sept  20.— We  received  a  message  this  morning 
from  the  Mandarin  of  Touran,  informing  us  that 
a  messenger  had  arrived  from  his  principal,  the 
Governor  of  Fai-fo,  bearing  a  letter  and  present, 
and  that  he  would  come  on  board  himself  at  noon 
to  deliver  both.  He  came  accordingly  at  the  hour 
promised,  accompanied  by  three  boats  carrying  the 
presents,  which  consisted  of  an  ox,  two  hogs,  a 
quantity  of  poultry,  and  an  ample  supply  of 
fruit  and  vegetables.  The  letter  was  received 
with  a  salute  of  eleven  guns.  This  eompUment 
was  due  to  the  rank  of  the  writer,  who  was  Gk>- 
vemor  of  an  extensive  province,  and  bore  a  high 
title.  The  Mandarin  of  Touran,  after  coming  on 
deck,  put  on  his  gown  of  ceremony  at  the  gang- 
way, before  he  would  advance  to  deliver  the  letter. 
After  this  preparation,  he  strutted  forward  with 
it  with  much  formality.  The  letter  simply  an- 
nounced the  presents,  and  felicitated  us  upon  our 
safe  arrival.  A  verbal  message  from  the  Gover- 
nor of  Faifo,  was  now  communicated.  We  were 
requested  by  it  to  communicate  in  writing  our  de- 


362  £MBA88T  TO  8IAM 

sire  to  visit  the  Court,  and  to  state  in  a  few  woids 
the  nature  of  our  business.  This  Was  done  imme- 
diately in  a  letter,  in  the  Chinese  and  English  lan- 
guages, addressed  to  the  Governor  of  Faifo,  and 
the  Mandarin  of  Touran,  at  his  own  request, 
stayed  to  receive  it  We  were  asked,  during  this 
visit,  whether  our  Emhassy  was  undertak^i  with 
the  knowledge  of  the  King  of  England,  or  other* 
wise.  I  explained  again,  in  answer  to  this,  that 
every  act  of  our  Government  was  with  the  vir- 
tual knowledge  of  His  Majesty  the  King,  and  had 
the  sanction  of  our  laws.  The  Mandarin  left  us 
at  three  o'dock,  after  passing  several  hours  in  the 
same  social  and  easy  manner  as  at  his  former 
visits. 

Sej^.  22. — ^We  were  now  daily  in  the  habit  of 
making  excursions  on  shore,  and,  wherever  we 
met  the  natives,  were  invariably  treated  with 
kindness  and  attention  by  them.  We  seldtim 
passed  through  a  village  without  being  invited 
into  some  house  or  another,  and  requested  to 
partake  of  tobacco  and  betel.  This  morning  we 
visited  same  of  the  viUages  situated  on  the  nar- 
row isthmus  which  divides  the  bay  of  Tounn 
from  that  of  Fai-fo.  The  soil  is  scarcely  any 
thing  but  sand,  and  yet  the  cultivation  exhi- 
bits considerable  appearance  of  industry.  The 
villages  have  a  remarkably  neat  and  dean  ap- 
pearance, to  which,  I  have  no  doubt,  the  nature 
of  the  soil  contributes  perhaps  still  more  than 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  863 

the  haUti  of  the  people.  There  is,  however,  an 
appearance  of  real  comfort  and  plenty, — ^atle43t 
we  no  where  observed:  any  traces  of  abject  po- 
verty or  want.  The.  culture  of  silk  has  extendi 
ed  even  to  this  arid  spot.  In  one  house  which 
we  visited  to-day,  we  observed  several  baskets 
full  of  cocoons,  and  others  in  whidi  the  worms 
were  feeding  upon  the  leaf  of  the  mulberry,  of 
whidi  there  were  several  fields  in  the  vicinity. 
Returning  home,  we  passed  through  an  exten- 
sive burying-ground,  among  the  sand  hiUs,  dose 
to  the  shore.  The  tombs  consisted  of  mere  tu- 
muli of  loose  sand  surrounded  by  a  circular 
trench.  A  great  number  of  the  graves  were 
open,  for,  it  seems,  it  is  the  custom  of  the  Co- 
diin  Chinese,  after  the  body  has  been  three  years 
interred,  to  disinhume  the  bones,  and  remove 
them  to  another  situation,  dose  to  their  dwel- 
lings, the  ground  in  which  they  are  then  depo^ 
sited  being  in  a  great  measure  viewed  as  a  place 
of  worship. 

Sept.  23. — I  made  an  excursion  this  morning 
to  a  village,  which  is  the  first  stage  from  Touran 
to  the  capital,  and  distant  from  the  common 
anchorage  about  six  miles.  It  is  situated  in  a 
beautiful  little  cove,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
bay.  This  place  is  of  considerable  extent,  very 
neat,  dean,  and  supplied  .with  a  good  market. 

For  the  accommodation  of  travellers  of  rank> 
that    is,  of  public  officers,  but  partiodarly  of 


864  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM . 

the  Sovereign  himself,  there  is  here  a  spacious 
and  handsome  house,  after  the  Cochin  Chinese 
fashion,   capable    of  affording    room    to   several 
hundred    persons.      It  is    in  the    centre   of    a 
square  fort,  of  from  one  hundred  and  forty  to 
one  hundred  and  fifty  paces  to  a  side,  having 
a  glacis,  a  ditch,  and  a  rampart,  but  no  bastions. 
This  little  fortification  is  very  neatly  constructed^ 
every  part  of  it  being  cased  or  paved  with  round 
stones.     The  gates  were  open,  and  we  entered 
without  any  obstruction.     We  at  first  saw  no- 
body, and  thought  the  place  uninhabited,  imtil 
we  stumbled  by  accident  upon  two  persons  wrap- 
ped up  in  mats,  and  fast  asleep.      These  were 
the  sentinels,   or  watchmen,  who  had  charge  of 
the  place !     Going  into  the  environs  of  the  vil- 
lage, we   there  found  the  whole  male  popula- 
tion of  the  place  occupied  in  hunting  the  wild 
hog.     They  were  all  armed  with  spears,  and  ac- 
companied  by   dogs,  these  being  common  curs, 
such  as  are  found  in  numbers  in   every  part  of 
the  East.     Their  object  was  to  insulate   a  woody 
promontory,   which   composes  one    side   of   the 
little  bay ;  and  for  this  purpose  they  were  affix- 
ing nets,  consisting  of  thongs  of  bufiSdo-hide,  to 
stakes  driven  in  the  ground.     In  the  mean  time, 
a  great  number  of  persons  were  engaged  in  beat- 
ing up  the  wood  and  alarming  the  game  with 
dogs,  horns,  and  incessant  shouting.     They  re- 
ceived us  with  their  usual  good  humour. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  365 

In  the  evening,  as  we  were  sitting  down  at  din- 
ner, our  former  visitor,  the  Civil  Chief  of  Touran, 
came  on  board,  without  having  previously  given 
any  notice  of  his  visit.  He  came,  he  said,  to  in- 
form us,  that  a  Mandarin  had  arrived  at  Touran, 
with  an  invitation  to  us  from  the  King  to  go  up, 
and  with  two  galleys,  of  forty  oars  each,  for  our 
accommodation.  He  explained,  that  he  was 
xsharged  to  inform  us,  that  the  number  of  per- 
sons of  our  party  who  could  be  conducted  to 
the  Court,  could  not  in  all  exceed  twelve  indivi- 
duals. We  informed  him,  that  our  party  con- 
sisted of  more  than  four  times  this  number ; 
and  that  leading  our  servants  and  escorts  behind, 
would  be  extremely  inconvenient  as  well  as  con- 
trary to  usage.  He  answered,  that  the  orders 
from  Court  were  peremptory,  and  that  he  was 
convinced  the  deputy  dared  not  depart  from 
them ;  and  he  insisted  that  neither  the  Embassy 
from  Siam,  nor  the  French  Mission,  had  been 
so  well  accommodated.  I  had  nothing  to  offer 
in  reply  to  this  last  circumstance,  because  I  was 
possessed  of  no  information  on  the  subject.  In 
the  evening  we  sent  our  interpreter  on  shore, 
to  remonstrate  on  this  topic  with  the  Mandarin, 
who  had  arrived  from  Hue. 

Sept  24.— Our  interpreter  returned  this  morn- 
ing, with  a  message  from  the  deputy  from  Hue, 
to  say  that  he  regretted  he  could  not  depart  from 
the  orders  he  had  received  with  respect  to  the 


866  EMBASSY  TO  SIAH 

numbers  of  our  party  who  were  to  proceed  to 
Court.  It  was  useless  to  oflfer  any  resistanee ; 
and^  making  therefore  a  merit  of  complying 
promptly,  we  sent  word  that  we  should  be  ready 
to  start  on  our  journey  at  two  o'clock.  The  two 
galleys  were  alongside  precisely  at  that  hour — 
the  Cochin  Chinese  exhibiting  in  this,  as  on  many 
other  occasions^  a  d^^ee  of  promptitude  and 
punctuality  rarely,  if  ever,  shown  among  an  East- 
em  people,  and  which,  I  think,  must  always  be 
looked  on,  where  it  is  found,  as  indicating*a  cer*' 
tain  advance  in  civilization.  The  Deputy  was 
a  military  Mandarin,  and  of  the  rank  of  "  Com- 
mander of  2000/'  A  number  of  inferior  Man- 
darins accompanied  him.  He  was  received  with 
a  salute  of  thirteen  guns.  Our  visitor  was  a  man 
of  sixty-five  years  of  age,  a  hale  and  active  per- 
son, above  the  usual  stature  of  the  Cochin  Chi- 
nese, and  of  a  manly  and  striking^  deportment 
His  manner  was  very  frank  and  cheerful.  He 
ran  over  every  part  of.  the  ship  with  the  activity 
and  curiosity  of  a  young  man,  and  nothing  es- 
caped his  notice.  A  little  after  him,  the  dvil 
Mandarin  of  Touran  came  on  board.  After  a 
great  deal  of  discussion,  they  agreed  to  augment 
our  party  to  fifteen,  including  the  crew  of  the 
ship's  launch,  which  was  allowed  to  accompany 
us  to  convey  our  baggage.  During  this  con- 
versation, I  haippened  to  say^  that  I  did  not 
suppose  that  two  or  three  individuals^  more  or 


ANU  COCHIN  CHINA.  867 

less,  would  be  considered  c^  any  moment  by  the 
Court.  The  Mandarins  answered,  that  they  did 
not  know  how  it  might  be  in  our  country,  but 
that  the  slightest  deviation  from  the  express  or- 
der of  the  Sovereign  was  looked  upon  in  Cochin 
China  as  a  crime  deserving  the  severest  punish- 
ment; and  they  gdve  us  plainly  to  understand, 
that  if  they  complied  with  our  wishes,  the  least 
risk  they  ran  would  be  to  receive  the  bastinado. 

At  six  o'clock  we  left  the  ship ;  Mr.  Finlayson 
£|lone  accompanied  me,  it  being  impracticable,  from 
the  restricted  numbers;  that  Captain  Datigerfield 
or  Mr.  Rutherford  should  proceed.  During  our 
voyage,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  examining  our 
conveyances,  and  observing  the  discipline  of  the 
crews.  These  galleys  are  the  regular  war^boats  of 
the  King ;  they  were  each  not  less  than  ninety 
feet  long,  but  very  narrow  in  proportion ;  they 
were  strongly  built,  and  their  rigging  consisted  of 
two  hig-sails ;  they  had  each  five  large  swivels,  as 
handsomely  cast  and  modelled  as  any  European 
cannon,  but  they  were  intended  to  carry  many 
more.  Their  crew  consisted  of  forty  rowers,  be^ 
sides  the  commands  and  officers,  all  well  and 
uniformly  dothed.  The  discipline  preserved  on 
boavd  was  more  strict  and  regular  than  I  could 
have  imagined:  the  rowers  plied  incessantly  and 
in  perfect  unison — an  officer  beating  time  by 
striking  agunst  each  other  tw6  cylindrical  sticks 
of  sonorous  wood,  and  cheering  them  With  a  song. 


S68  EMBASSY   TO   SI  AM 

All  communication  between  one  galley  and 
another  was  made  by  sound  of  trumpet;  and 
while  lying  at  anchor,  a  regular  watch  was  kept, 
and  the  sentries  challenged  at  intervals.  Every 
soldier  is  supplied  with  a  pair  of  the  sonorous 
sticks  which  I  have  just  mentioned,  and  with 
these  the  challenge  is  given  and  answered  by  the 
sentinels. 

The  low  coast  as  we  went  along  appeared  to  be 
nothing  but  a  series  of  sand-hills,  and  the  moun- 
tains to  be  of  the  same  granite  as  we  noticed  along 
the  rest  of  the  coast.  The  weather  we  experienced 
was  remarkably  fine. 

Sept  25. — About  two  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  of  Hu^.  Pilot-boats  were  in 
readiness  to  conduct  us  in,  and  the  commander 
of  the  fort  came  out  to  compliment  us  upon  our 
arrival.  The  breadth  of  the  river  at  its  mouth  is 
no  more  than  four  hundred  yards.  On  the  right- 
hand  going  up,  is  a  strong  fort  which  completely 
commands  the  entrance  of  the  river.  It  is  of  a 
quadrangular  form,  with  a  regular  glacis  and  ditch. 
The  rampart  is  neatly  constructed  of  stone  and 
lime,  and  the  cannon  mounted  upon  it  in  bar- 
bette, or  without  embrasures  or  parapet.  In  com- 
pliment to  us,  the  walls  as  we  passed  along  were 
manned  with  troops  in  regular  scarlet  uniforms, 
and  amounting,  as  we  were  told,  in  number  to 
three  hundred.  This,  with  the  look  of  the  little 
fortress  itself,  rising  green  amongst  the  sand-hills; 


AND  COCHItf  CHIKA.  S6d 

made  a  very  pretty  appearance.  At  half-past 
two,  we  anchored  a  little  beyond  the  fort.  At 
this  place,  the  river,  receiving  a  great  number  of 
tributary  streams  at  its  western  bank,  is  greatly 
increased  in  breadth,  and  forms  an  extensive  basin 
and  good  harbour,  nearly  landlocked  by  the  nar« 
rowness  of  the  mouth  and  the  bend  which  the 
river  immediately  makes.  The  river  of  Hu6  is 
fitted  only  for  ships  of  a  small  draft  of  water. 
At  high-water  spring-tides,  there  are  no  more  than 
nine  Cochin  Chinese  cubits  on  the  bar,  which 
make  exactly  twelve  feet  six  and  three-quarter 
inches.  The  breadth  of  the  bar,  which  is  hard 
sand,  is  ten  fathoms  and  the  channel  through  it  is 
no  more  than  thirty  fathoms  broad.  There  seems, 
however,  for  vessels  of  small  burden,  no  great 
difficulty.  Three  years  ago,  the  Henri,  a  FrencK 
ship  drawing  twelve  feet,  came  over  the  bar  with- 
out inconvenience.  Out  and  inside  of  the  bai? 
there  are  four  fathoms  and  a  ha|f  water,  sufficient 
for  ships  of  almost  any  burden.  A  heavy  surf 
rolls  in,  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  even  in  the 
most  moderate  weather,  such  as  we  now  experi- 
enced; and  at  the  height  of  the  N.E.  monsoon, 
the  roadstead  being  totally  exposed,  there  must 
always  be  a  heavy  and  dangerous  sea  on  the  bar. 

The  spot  we  were  now  at,  was  the  scene  of  the 
misfortunes  of  our  predecessor,  Mr.  Chapman,  the 
agent  of  Mr.  Hastings,  who  was  deputed  for  a 
similar  object  with  our  own.    From  real  or  ima- 

VOL.    I.  SB 


S70  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

ginary  fears  of  treachery  on  the  part  of  the  Gio- 
vemment,  then  in  the  hands  of  the  Tonquinese, 
he  suddenly  fled  from  Hue,  and  escaped  on  hoard 
his  little  bark,  which  lay  where  our  galleys  were 
now  anchored.     Hostilities  commenced  between 
him  and  some  batteries  upon  the  shore;  and  after 
more  than  twenty  days  of  a  perilous  and  unequal 
contest,  at    the   height   of  the  N.E.  monsoon, 
when  it  was  most  difficult  to  get  out  of  the 
river,  he  at  last  succeeded,  by  a  fortunate  slant  of 
fair  wind,  in  crossing  the  bar  and  effecting  his  es- 
cape.    Besides  his  own  interesting  narrative  of 
this  event,  I  have  had  an  account  of  the  trans- 
action from   an  eye-witness,  one  of  his  compa- 
nions, the  Chinese  Lao  Ami,  a  respectable  and 
well-known  inhabitant  of  Prince  of  Wales's  Is- 
land, whom  I  have  mentioned  in  another  place. 
.   In  consequence  of  our  launch  not  having  ar- 
rived, our  conductor  dare  not  go  up  the  river 
without  first  obtaining  leave.     This  detained  us 
until  nine  o'clock  at  night,  when  a  despatch-boat 
sent  up  returned  with  orders  for  our  galley  to 
proceed,  but  for  the  Mandarin  to  wait  the  arrival 
of  the  launch.     We  reached  the  city  about  twdve 
o'clock  at  night.     The  river  continues  of  a  consi- 
derable size  throughout,  being  little  inferior  p 
breadth  to  that  of  Saigun,  or  to  the  Menam  at 
Bang-kok,  but  it  is  very  shallow. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  871 


CHAPTER  X. 

Visit  from  the  Intendant  of  the  Port*— The  Mission  lands,  and 
18  placed  in  a  state  of  surveillance. — Discussion  respecting 
the  letter  from  the  Gtevernor-general  to  the  King.— Misdoa 
jealously  watched  by  the  officers  of  Government.— Visit  to 
the  Mandarin  of  Elephants^  or  Foreign  Minister,  and  ac« 
count  of  the  discussion  which  took  place  with  him. — Mission 
reffised  an  audience  of  the  King.— Visit  to  the  fortifications 

of  Hue,  and  description  of  them ^Visits  to  the  two  French 

Mandarins. — Posthumous  honours  paid  to  civil  and  military 
officers  of  distinction. — Negociations  continued. — ^Excursions 
in  the  environs  of  Hu^. — Royal  Mausoleum. — Temples  of 
Oautama,— Collation  sent  by  the  King  to  the  Mission.— Ne-* 
gociations. — Cochin  Chinese  cookery— Opinion  of  Chinese  re* 
ddents  respecting  Cochin  Chinese  Government. — French  Mis- 
sion to  Cochin  China. — Another  visit  to  the  Foreign  Minister, 

-  and  discussions  which  ensued. — Commencement  of  the  mon- 
soon with  a  gale  of  wind  and  heavy  fall  of  rain^  which  inundates 
the  town  of  Hue. — Visit  from  the  two  principal  assistants  of 
the^  Foreign  Minister^  and  discussion  with  them. — Final  visit 

'  to  the  Foreign  Minister,  and  termination  of  the  negociatioa. 
Striking   circumstance,    in    illustration    of  Cochin  Chinese 

r  manners. 

Sept.  26. — At  six  in  the  tnoming,  one  of  the 
royal  galleys  came  alongside,  with  the  Intendant 
of  the  Port  and  other  Mandarins  on  board,  to 

2  B  S 


372  JKMAASSY  TO  SIAH 

invite  us  on  shore.  A  house  was  prepared  for 
us  quite  dose  to  the  place  where  we  anchored, 
and  we  landed  immediately.  Our  aoeommodaticm 
was  very  good,  according  to  the  habits  of  the 
people.  The  house  was  tiled,  and  consisted  of  ten 
apartments,  constructed  of  substantial  wood  upon 
a  well-raised  terrace,  with  abundance  of  office- 
houses.  There  was  a  court-yard  in  front.  One 
side  of  the  house  looked  towards  the  river,  and 
the  other  towards  one  of  the  principal  streets 
of  the  town.  At  both  these  quarters,  from 
which  alone  ingress  or  egress  was  practicable, 
there  was  raised  for  the  occasion  a  stockade  of 
bamboos,  and  a  strong  party  of  not  less  than 
an  hundred  men  was  directed  to  guard,  or 
rather  to  watch  us; — ^in  a  word,  we  were,  for 
the  time  at  least,  state  prisoners.  The  Inten- 
dant  of  the  Fort  waited  upon  us  immedi- 
ately* and  told  us  he  wsis  requested  by  the 
Mandarin  of  Strangers  to  receive  the  letter  of 
the  Grovemor-general  and  the  translations.  I 
made  no  hesitation  in  complying  with  this  de- 
mand, and  immediately  produced  the  letter  itself, 
-—a  .correct  Portuguese  translation  made  at  Cal- 
cutta, and  a  translation  in  the  Chinese  language 
made  by  Mr.  Marshman,  the  learned  missionaiy 
of  Serampore.  The  only  questions  now  asked 
respecting  the  letter  or  Mission  were — whetlier 
the  Governor  of  Lower  Cochin  China  had  ac- 
tually seen  the  Governor-general's  letter  to  the 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  873 

King;  and  whether  the  letter  itself  was  writ^ 
ten  with  the  knowledge  of  the  King  of  Eng- 
land.  The  Intendant  of  the  Port  required  of  us, 
in  civil  terms,  not  to  go  beyond  our  house,  or 
pass  the  sentinels  of  our  guard,  until  the  letter 
of  the  Governor-general  was  approved  of  by  the 
King — this  being  the  invariable  usage  of  the 
Court,  with  regard  to  all  missions  from  foreign 
countries. 

About  noon  an  officer  came  with  a  letter  from 
the  Mandarin  of  Elephants.  He  brought  a  quan- 
tity of  provisions  and  thirty  quans*  in  money. 
This  last  we  were  compelled  to  accept  to  avoid 
giving  umbrage,  which  a  refusal  would  unques- 
tionably have  done.  The  intention  of  the  money, 
it  was  said,  was  to  obviate  the  necessity  of  our 
servants  going  to  market  where  there  might  be 
a  risk  of  disputes  with  the  inhabitants. 

The  Mandarin  of  Touran,  who  left  that  place 
the  same  night  we  did,  and  made  his  journey  by 
land,  arrived  at  the  capital  this  morning,  and 
paid  us  a  visit.  He  had  been  directed  to  repair 
here  on  our  account. 

Seja.  27.— Shortly  after  breakfast,  the  Inten* 
dant  of  the  Port  and  other  Mandarins  called 
with  the  Chinese  translation  of  the  Governor- 
general's  letter.  They  informed  us,  that  the  trans* 
lation  which  we  bad  furnished  to  the  Governor 

*  About  fifteen  Spaaiih  doUan«  in  a  miserable  ooin  compoeed 
of  zinc. 


874  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM  . 

of  Saigun  was  correct  in  its  style,  but  th»t  the 
present  one  was  very  objectionable;  as,  besides 
other  errors,  the  Governor-general  there  claimed 
an  equality  of  rank  with  the  King  of  Cochin 
China.  They  admitted  that  the  letter  was  good 
Chinese,  but  that  the  etiquette  of  the  Court 
was  greatly  violated  in  it.  It  was  stated  in  reply, 
that  in  the  English  letter  the  style  was  unequi* 
vocally  respectful,  and  such  as  the  Governor- 
general  would  have  used  in  addressing  his  own 
Sovereign;  beyond  which,  nothing  farther  could 
reasonably  be  expected  from  him.  The  altera- 
tions now  required  in  the  Chinese  translation, 
however,  were  not  material,  and  therefore  sub- 
mitted to  without  difficulty.  The  same  objec- 
tions were  made  here,  as  at  Saigun,  to  our  dis- 
claiming any  wish  to  possess  forts  or  territory ; 
and  the  expression  in  the  Governor-general's  let- 
ter, mentioning  the  death  of  the  late  King,  was 
considered  improper.  His  Majesty,  it  was  ob^ 
served,  ought  to  have  been  represented  as  not 
dead,  but  merely  gone  to  Heaven  !  The  Man- 
darins, who  had  the  conduct  of  this  business, 
were  not  less  fastidious,  or  less  troublesome,  in 
matters  of  minute  detail,  than  their  brethren 
at  Saigun.  They  insisted  that  our  interpreter 
should  transcribe  every  word  of  the  copies  taken 
in  his  oum  Jmndwriting^  and  that  the  docum'ents 
should  be  signed  by  him  as  well  as  both  signed 
and  sealed  by  myself.     This  tedious  matter  occu- 


AKD  COCHIN   CHINA.  975 

pied  from  ten  in  the  morning  to  five  in  the 
evening,  when  the  Mandarins  left  us  apparently 
satisfied. 

Sept.  28. — In  our  new  residence  we  found  our- 
selves treated  with  perfect  respect,  but  we  were 
dose  prisoners.  Interpreters  and  Cochin  Chinese 
servants  were  always  at  hand  to  do  every  ofiioe 
for  us,  but  our  Indian  servants  were  not  allowed 
to  move  beyond  the  doors  without  two  or  three 
persons  to  watch  them,  and  this  only  once  or 
twice  in  the  course  of  the  day.  A  singular  exw 
ception  was  made  in  favour  of  our  Chinese  at* 
tendants.  These  were  permitted  to  go  abroad 
with  entire  freedom,  and  no  suspicions  enter- 
tained of  them,  any  more  than  if  they  had  be^n 
natural-bom  subjects  of  Cochin  China  itself. 
It  is  obvious  from  this,  that  all  intercourse  be-> 
tween  European  nations  ought  to  be  conducted 
through  the  instrumentality  of  the  Chinese,  and 
that  the  greater  number  of  these  people  there  are 
attached  to  an  European  mission,  the  fewer  ob- 
stacles it  will  be  likely  to  encounter. 

A  singular  mixture  of  jealousy  and  respect 
was  observed  to  us  in  this  early  stage  of  our 
intercourse  with  the  Cochin  Chinese  Court* 
While  we  were  not  permitted  to  go  beyond  the 
threshold  of  our  doors,  an  order  was  given,  that 
all  persons  on  horseback  should  dismount  as  they 
passed  our  dwelling,  out  of  compliment  to  us, 
or  rather,  in  all  probability,  in  consequence  of 


97$  EMBASSY  TO  6IAM 

our  being  supposed  to  be  under  the  immediate 
protection  of  the  King;  and  it  was  expressly 
forbidden  to  any  one  to  stand  and  gaze  at  us 
from  the  street.  The  bastinado  was  liberally  ap- 
plied to  the  passengers,  in  execution  of  these  or- 
ders ;  and,  for  neglect  of  duly  enforcing  them* 
seven  soldiers  of  the  guard  received  fifteen  strokes 
apiece  this  morning.  The  punishment,  in  such 
cases,  follows  the  sentence  and  offence,  with  a  ra* 
pidity  truly  summary.  A  sentinel,  for  example, 
neglects  to  strike  his  rattle  when  challenged  with 
military  promptitude ;  the  ofiicer  comes  out, 
throws  him  down  upon  his  face,  and  forthwith 
gives  him  ten  or  more  strokes  of  the  bastinado ! 
The  former,  by  a  prostration,  acknowledges  his 
obligations  for  the  parental  correction,  and  the 
business  is  ended.  The  military  men  are  so  re- 
gularly broken  in  to  the  bastinado,  that  they  re- 
ceive it  without  a  murmur.  When  the  seven  sol- 
diers, already  alluded  to,  for  example,  were  flog- 
ged, they  threw  themselves  down  upon  their 
faces,  and  received  the  strokes  of  the  bamboo  as 
a  mere  matter  of  course,— duly  making  a  low 
obdisance  to  the  officer  who  directed  the  puniA- 
ment,  when  it  was  over.  The  civil  classes  do 
not  seem  to  be  just  so  well  trained,  and,  as  we 
had  ourselves  an  opportunity  of  observing,  never 
failed  to  make  some  resistance,  and  occarionally 
an  effectual  one.  Slight  corporal  punishments  ap- 
peared to  be  carried  inexorably  into  effiaet.    One 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  877 

of  the  interpreters,  detected  in  imposing  upon 
our  servants  in  the  purchase  of  some  trifling 
articles,  was  sentenced  to  receive  ten  strokes  of 
the  bamboo.  We  were  informed  of  this,  and  re- 
quested, for  our  satisfaction,  to  send  a  person  to 
flee  the  sentence  put  into  effect.  We  begged  that 
no  such  chastisement  should  be  inflicted  upon  avix 
aooount,  stating  that  the  matter  in  question  was 
not  of  the  slightest  moment;  but  our  remon- 
strances were  of  no  avail,  and  the  punishment 
was  duly  inflicted ;  while  the  culprit  was  admo- 
nished, that  the  next  ofieiice  would  be  punished 
by  the  infliction  of  the  canguCj  or,  **  wooden  ruff.'* 

It  may  indeed  be  said,  that  the  Cochin  Chinese 
are  a  well-flogged  nation ;  and  one  might  expect 
that  the  universality  of  this  brutal  system  would 
render  them  not  only  servile,  obsequious  and  cow- 
ardly, but  also  timid,  gloomy  and  suspicious :  but, 
in  the  latter  respect  at  least,  the  case  is  quite  the 
contrary;  and  the  lower  orders  of  the  Cochm 
Chinese,  as  far  as  we  could  judge  from  outward 
appearance,  seemed  to  be  vain,  cheerful,  good* 
humoured,  obliging  and  civil,  beyond  all  Asiatic 
people  whom  we  had  seen. 

Sept.  89^— The  Intendant  of  the  Port,  and  other 
Mandarins,  called  yesterday,  requesting  two  ad- 
ditional copies  of  the  Chinese  translation  of  the 
Govemor^general  s  letter,  which  were  accordingly 
gi^en,  and  they  presented  to  us  the  compliments 
of  die  Mandarin  of  Elephants,  saying  that  he 


S78  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

would  be  prepared  to  receive  us  about  ten  o'clock^ 
if  we  would  favour  him  with  a  visit.  We  agreed 
to  do  so;  and  an  accommodation  galley  feeing 
sent  for  us,  Mr.  Finlayson  and  I  left  our  dwell- 
ing about  half-past  twelve.  The  Mandarin's  re- 
sidence is  situated  above  the  new  fortress,  or  rather 
fortified  dty,  on  the  banks  of  a  highly  picturesque 
and  beautiful  reach  of  the  river ;  and  our  journey 
occupied  near  an  hour  and  a  half,  being  prind* 
pally  along  two  faces  of  the  fortress.  M.  Chai-. 
gneau  and  M.  Vanier,  two  French  gentlemen 
who  had  the  rank  of  Mandarins  at  the  Courts 
met  us  as  we  landed,  and  accomponied  us  to  the 
dwelling  of  the  Minister.  We  found  this  person- 
age seated  in  an  open  hall  of  great  size.  A  crowd 
of  people  surrounded  the  place,  but  there  were  no 
persons  of  any  distinction  within,  and  the  upper  end 
of  the  hall  was  occupied  by  the  preparations  for 
a  Chinese  drama.  It  was  hung  with  some  Chi4 
Oese  pictures,  and  there  were  a  few  English  prints 
representing  naval  actions.  The  place,  although 
spacious,  had  but  a  mean,  unfinished  look,  and; 
in  point  of  neatness  and  comfort,  was  very  in-t 
ferior,  indeed,  to  the  habitations  of  those  chiefs 
whom  we  visited  at  Siara.  Its  only  handsome  or- 
nament was  a  large  board  of  ebony,  on  which 
were  written  some  Chinese  characters,  every  one 
of  which  was  not  less  than  eight  or  nine  indies 
in  length.  These  were  raised  upon  the  woody 
and   fonrted  of  mother-of-pearl,  constituting  a 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  S79 

brilliant  and  beautiful  piece  of  mosaic.  This  was 
suspended  over  the  place  where  the  Minister 
usually  sat. 

The  Minister,  a  little,  lively  old  man,  dressed 
in  a  rich  habit  of  orange-coloured  silk,  covered 
with  flowers  and  devices,  received  us  with  great 
politeness.  We  made  a  bow  to  him,  and  were 
requested  to  occupy  a  bench  prepared  for  our 
accommodation  beforehand.  The  French  Man- 
darins sat  on  chairs  on  each  side  of  us.  The 
Cochin  Chinese  Minister  began  the  conversation 
by  apologizing  for  the  trouble  he  had  givetx 
in  requiring  so  many  copies  of  the  Ctiinese 
translation  of  the  Govemor-generars  letter,  and 
then  desired  to  know  if  we  had  any  request  to 
make  verbally  beyond  what  was  contained  in 
that  document.  We  said,  that  we  had  no  re- 
quest whatever  to  make,  except  what  was  con-, 
nected  with  the  subject  of  the  Governor- general'^ 
letter ;  and  added,  that  since  arriving  in  Cochin 
China,  we  were  given  to  understand,  that  new 
and  liberal  regulations  upon  the  subject  of  foreign 
commerce  had  been  promulgated,  which  appeared 
to  be  entirely  satisfactory ;  and  that  we  wished 
to  be  furnished  with  official  copies  of  the  re- 
gulations in  question.  The  Minister  answered, 
that  he  was  authorized  by  the  King  to  comr 
municate  to  us,  that  the  request  made  by  thci 
Governor-general  of  India  was  acceded  to;  and 
that  English  ships  would  be  admitted  freely  to 


S80  EMBASSY  TO   8IAM 

trade  in  the  King's  dominions.  He  added,  that 
a  copy  of  the  new  regulation  for  foreign  trade 
was  already  prepared  for  us,  and  would  be  sent 
without  delay.  On  this  subject  he  observed,  that 
he  farther  pledged  himself  personally  to  use 
every  means  in  his  own  power  to  insure  despatch 
in  the  transaction  of  the  business  of  such  British 
merchant-ships  as  might  visit  Cochin  China. 
He  also  said,  that  an  answer  to  the  letter  of 
the  Governor-general  would  be  given  before  our 
departure,  and  indeed  as  soon  as  required.  In 
alluding  to  the  imports  upon  foreign  trade,  he 
observed,  **  In  England,  imposts  are  no  doubt 
levied  upon  foreign  commerce,  as  here;  every 
nation  has  a  right  to  do  this,  for  its  own  be- 
nefit." 

The  Minister  now  stated,  that  in  the  letter 
of  the  Governor-general  mention  was  made  of 
certain  presents  for  the  King,  and  that  they 
were  specified  in  a  communication  from  the 
Governor  of  Saigun.  He  wished  to  be  more 
particularly  informed  on  this  subject.  The  ne- 
cessary, information  was  given,  and  the  presents 
mentioned.  He  requested  to  be  furnished  with 
a  written  list  of  them,  that  he  might  lay  it 
before  His  Majesty.  This  was  supplied  on  our 
return  home  in  the  evening.  Tlie  Minister, 
as  if  he  wished  to  consider  every  thing  as  now 
settied,  requested  to  know  if  we  wished  to  gra- 
tify  our  curiosity   by  seeing  the  city  and  its 


AXD  COCHIN  CHINA.  881 

environs,— observing,  that  when  we  desired  to  go 
al»oad,  he  should  be  ready  to  supply  us  with 
barges  or  palanquins,  as  might  be  most  suitable 
to  the  places  we  intended  to  visit.  No  notice 
having  been  taken  of  introducing  us  into  the 
presence  of  the  King,  and  it  being  evident  that 
this  was  intentional^  I  now  pointedly  brought  the 
subject  forward,  and  desired  to  know  whether  a 
day  had  been  appointed  for  granting  us  an  au* 
dience.  The  Minister  answered,  that  the  sub- 
ject of  our  Mission  being  a  commercial  one,  it 
was  not  customary  for  the  King,  on  such  oc- 
casions, to  grant  an  audience.  It  was  stated,  in 
answer,  that  it  was  true  that  one  great  purpose 
of  the  Mission,  was  commercial,  but  that  it  had 
also  for  its  object  to  congratulate  the  King  upon 
his  accession  to  the  throne.  The  Chief  shifted 
his  ground,  and  said,  that,  according  to  the  cus« 
torn  of  the  country,  audiences  were  only  granted 
by  His  Majesty  to  the  bearers  of  letters  from 
Kings ;  and  that  if  the  letter  had  been  from 
the  King  of  England,  there  could  have  been 
no  question  about  an  audience.  The  Governor- 
general,  he  was  aware,  he  said,  was  the  viceroy  of 
a  great  country,  but  he  was  not  a  sovereign  prince. 
I  observed,  in  answer,  that  the  Gpvernor-gen^ul 
of  India/ was  in  habits  of  direct  correspondence 
ivith.  the  first  princes  of  the  East,  into  whose 
presence  his  representatives  were  always  re- 
ceivedi.    It  was  also  stated^  that  the  preselit.  Mis* 


88S  EMBASSY  TO   81  AM 

sion  had  had  an  audience  of  the  King  of  Siam 
a  few  months  ago.  To  this  he  replied  promptly, 
^  What  is  done  in  Siam  is  no  rule  for  this  coun- 
try/* I  added,  on  this  subject,  that  it  was  so 
far  from  contrary,  even  to  the  customs  of  Co- 
chin China  itself,  that  His  Majesty's  father  had 
granted  two  audiences  to  the  representative  of 
the  Governor-general  of  India,  no  longer  ago 
than  eighteen  years,  and  at  a  time  wh^i  our 
Indian  empire  was  neither  so  great  nor  power- 
ful as  at  present.  Upon  this,  I  brought  to  his 
notice  the  circumstances  connected  with  the 
Mission  of  Mr.  Roberts,  deputed  by  the  Mar- 
quis of  Wellesley,  in  1804.  The  old  Chief 
stated,  that  he  remembered  the  circumstance 
well,  and  he  intrepidly  asserted  that  Mr.  Ro- 
berts was  never  admitted  to  an  audience,  I 
was.  aware  that  M.  Vanier,  who  sat  at  my  right 
hand,  had  received  Mr.  Roberts  at  Touran,  and 
that  he  must,  therefore,  have  been  present  either 
at  the  audience  or  at  the  capital,  at  the  moment 
of  Mr.  Robert's  visit ;  and  therefore  I  referred 
to  him.  M.  Vanier  stated,  that  he  was  sick  at 
the  time,  and  not  actually  present  at  the  au- 
dience, but  that  there  was  no  question  of  Mr. 
Roberts  having  had  an  audience  of  the  King. 
This  was  explained  to  the  Mandarin,  who  was 
once  more  compelled  to  change  his  ground; 
and  now  stated,  what  was  perhaps  nearer  the 
truth,  that  the  customs  of  the  country,  in  this 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  888 

respect;  had  been  changed  by  his  present  Ma* 
jesty,  whose  policy,  in  all  such  matters,  differed 
widely  from  that  of  his  father.  We  after* 
wards  indeed  learned,  that,  since  his  accession 
the  Court  etiquette  had,  in  every  way,  become 
more  ceremonious  and  uncomplying,  and  that 
it  was  the  great  ambition  of  the  King  to  mi- 
mic the  ceremonial  of  the  Court  of  Fekin.  1 
finally  requested  the  Minister  to  represent  to 
His  Majesty  our  desu^  to  have  the  honour  of 
an  audience.  He  endeavoured,  for  some  time, 
to  evade  this  demand;  but  at  last  assented  to 
convey  our  request,  promising  that  we  should 
have  an  answer  on  the  following  day. 

In  the  course  of  this  last  part  of  the  conver- 
sation, the  national  vanity  of  the  Cochin  Chi* 
nese^  and  the  exalted  opinion  they  entertain 
of  themselves  and  their  Sovereign,  were  suffi* 
eiently  conspicuous.  "  It  is  natural  enough/* 
said  the  Mandarin,  with  a  smile,  **  that  you 
should  employ  every  expedient  in  your  power 
to  attain  the  honoiur  of  being  presented  to  ao 
great  a  King.'* 

During  our  visit,  a  handsome  entertainment 
of  m^t,  fruits,  and  wine,  was  served  to  us; 
and  while  the  Chinese  drama  was  acting,  the 
Chief  affiibly  explained  the  most  striking  parts 
of  it.  This  audience  lasted  from  two  to  near 
six,  o'clock,  and  we  returned  home  by  the  op-» 
pgsite  walls  of  the  new  city  ,fr<nn  those  by  which 


884  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

we  had  proceeded,  so  that  in  going  and  com- 
ing we  made  the  whole  circuit  of  it  This 
was  no  doubt  done  to  give  us  an  opportunity 
of  admiring  this  splendid  and  extracn^navy 
work,  to  which  I  do  not  imagine  there  is  any 
thing  parallel  in  the  East. 

Sept.  80. — Notice  was  sent  to  us  yesterday 
forenoon,  that  an  accommodation-barge  would 
be  sent,  to  take  us  to  whatever  part  of  the 
city  we  wished  to  visit,  and  that  the  French 
Mandarins  would  accompany  us.  At  three  o'dodc 
MM.  Chaigneau  and  Vanier  accordingly  waited 
upon  us,  and  said  that  they  had  orders  from 
the  King  to  conduct  us  into  the  new  city,  and 
to  show  us  the  works.  We  ascended  the  river, 
and  landed  on  the  west  side  of  the  new  forti* 
fication,  or  walled  city,  where  we  found  a  Co> 
chin  Chinese  Mandarin  waiting  to  receive  us. 

The  new  city,  which  is  of  'a  quadrangular 
form,  is  completely  insulated,  having  the  river 
on  two  sides  of  it,  and  a  spacious  canal  of 
from  thirty  to  forty  yards  broad  on  the  other 
two.  The  circumference  of  the  walls,  or  of  the 
city,  which  is  the  same  thing,  is  upwards  of 
five  miles.  The  form  of  the  fortification  is 
nearly  an  equilateral  quadrangle,  each  face  mea- 
suring 1180  toises.  The  late  King  himself  was 
die  engineer  who  formed  the  plan,  und^  the  in-^ 
structions.  and  advice,  however,  of  the  French 
officers  in  his  service,  but  whose  personal  asrist- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  885 

ance  he  had  lost,  before  he  commenced  the  un- 
dertaking, in  the  year  1805.  This  singular  man 
proves  to  have  been  no  mean  proficient  in  this 
branch  of  European  military  science ;  for  the 
works,  as  far  as  we  coidd  judge,  are  planned  and 
constructed  on  technical  rules,  and  the  materials 
and  workmanship  are  not  inferior  to  the  design. 
The  fortress  has  a  regular  and  beautiful  glacis, 
extending  from  the  river  or  canal  to  the  ditch; 
a  covert  way  all  round ;  and  a  ditch  which  i$ 
thirty  yards  broad,  with  from  four  to  five  feet 
water  in  it,  all  through.  The  rampart  is  built  of 
hard  earth,  cased  on  the  outside  with  bricks. 
Each  angle  is  flanked  by  four  bastions,  intended 
to  mount  thirty-six  guns  a-piece,  some  in  embra- 
sures, and  some  in  barbette.  To  each  face  there 
are  also  four  arched  gateways  of  solid  masonry,  to 
which  the  approach  across  the  ditch  is  by  hand- 
some arched  stone-bridges.  The  area  inside  is 
laid  out  into  regular  and  spacious  streets,  at  right 
angles  to  each  other.  A  handsome  and  broad 
canal  forms  a  communication  between  the  river 
and  the  fortress,  and  within  is  distributed  by 
various  branches,  so  as  to  communicate  with  the 
palace,  the  arsenal,  the  granaries,  and  other  public 
edifices.  By  this  channel  the  taxes  and  tributes 
are  brought  from  the  provinces,  and  conducted  at 
once  to  the  very  doors  of  the  palace  or  magazines. 
The  palace  is  situated  within'  a  strong  citadel, 
consisting  of  two  distinct  walls,  or  ramparts. 
VOL.  I.  2  c 


S86  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

Within  this  we  were  not  invited;  but  the  roof 
of  the  palace  itself  was  distinguishable  by  its  yel- 
low colour ;  and  one  handsome  temple,  conseent- 
ed  to  the  royal  ancestors  of  the  King,  was  also 
noticed.  This  last,  whidi  has  no  priests  attadbed 
to  it,  was  the  only  place  of  worship  within  the 
new  city. 

In  the  whole  of  this  extensive  fortification, 
there  is  scarcely  any  thing  slovenly,  barbarous,  or 
incomplete  in  design.  Perhaps  the  only  excep- 
tions are  the  Chinese  umbreUa^haped  towen  over 
the  gates,  and  the  embrasures  of  one  or  two  €£ 
the  bastions  finished  by  his  present  Mqesty,  and 
in  which  he  has  taken  it  into  his  head  to  invert 
the  rule  of  science  and  common  s^ise,  by  mak<- 
ing  the  embrasures  to  slope  inwards  instead  of  out* 
wards.  The  banks  of  the  river  and  canal  form* 
ing  the  base  of  the  glacis,  are  not  only  regu- 
larly sloped  down  every  where,  but  wherever  the 
work  is  completed,  for  it  is  still  unfinished  in 
a  few  situations,  they  are  cased  from  the  foun- 
dation with  a  face  of  solid  masonry.  The  canal 
within  the  walls  is  executed  in  the  same  perfect 
and  workmanlike  manner ;  and  the  bridges  which 
are  thrown  over  it,  have  not  only  neat  stone  bar 
lustrades,  but  are  paved  all  over  with  marbb 
brought  from  Tonquin. 

The  first  object  in  the  interior  to  which  our 
curiosity  was  particularly  pointed,  was  the  public 
granaries.    These  form  ranges  of  enormous  length 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  387 

in  r^^bur  order,  and  are  fall  of  eorii,  being  said 
to  contain  many  years'  consumption  for  the  city. 
It  has  been  the  practice  of  the  late  and  present 
King,  to  add  two  or  three  ranges  of  granaries 
every  year  to  the  number.  The  pernicious  cus- 
tom of  hoarding  grain  against  years  of  scarcity, 
and  the  unavoidaUe  effect  of  which  is  to  aggra- 
vate, or  even  to  create,  the  evil  it  is  intended  to 
obviate,  seems  to  be  a  received  and  popular  maxim 
of  Cochin  Chinese  government.  It  has  its  use 
in  maintaining  the  tyranny  of  a  despotic  govern^ 
ment. 

The  barracks  were  the  next  object  pointed  out 
to  us,  and  here  we  found  the  troops  drawn  out. 
These  buildings  are  excellent,  and,  in  point  of 
anangement  and  cleanliness  would  do  no  dis* 
credit  to  the  best  organized  army  in  Europe. 
They  are  extensive,  and  surround  the  whole  of 
tlie  outer  part  of  the  citadel.  We  were  in- 
formed that  from  twelve  to  thirteen  thousand 
troops  were  constantly  stationed  at  the  capital. 

The  most  extraordinary  spectacle  was  still  to 
be  exhibited — the  arsenal.  A  violent  fidl  of  rain, 
and  night  coming  on,  prevented  us  from  inspect- 
ing  the  whole  of  this ;  but  what  we  did  see,  was 
more  than  sufficient  to  excite  our  surprise  and 
gratify  our  curiosity.  The  iron  cannon  were  first 
pointed  out  to  us,  consisting  of  an  extraordinary 
assemblage  of  old  ship-guns  of  various  Euro^ 
pean  nations — ^French,  English^  Dutch,  and  Por- 

e  c  2 


388  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

tuguese.  These  were  objects  of  little  curiosity 
coinpai'ed  with  the  brass  ordnance,  the  balls,  and 
shells,  all  manufactured  in  Cochin  China,  by 
native  workmen,  from  materials  supplied  by  Ton- 
quin,  and  after  French  models.  The  ordnance 
consisted  of  cannon,  howitzers  and  mortars.  The 
carriages  were  all  constructed,  finished,  and  paints 
ed,  as  substantially  and  neatly  as  if  they  had 
b^en  manufactured  at  Woolwich  or  Fort  Wil- 
liam, and  the  field-carriages  especially  were  sin- 
gularly neat  and  handsome.  The  cannon  are  of 
various  calibres,  from  four  to  sixty-eight  pounders, 
with  a  large  proportion  of  eighteen  pounders. 
Among  them  were  nine  remarkable  guns  cast  by 
the  late  King ;  these  carry  each  a  ball  weighing 
seventy  Chinese  catties,  or,  in  other  words,  are 
ninety-three  pounders  ;  they  are  as  handsomely 
modelled  and  as  well  founded  as  any  of  the  rest, 
and  placed  upon  highly  ornamented  carriages. 
On  these  remarkable  pieces  of  ordnance  is  inscrib- 
ed the  name  of  the  late  King,  Ja-lung,  and  the 
day  and  year  in  which  they  were  cast.  The  King 
used  to  say  that  these  would  prove  the  most 
durable  monuments  of  his  reign— no  great  com- 
pliment to  his  administratimi. 

The  art  of  casting  good  brass  cannon,  under 
the  direction  of  Europeans,  appears  to  have  been 
long  known  in  this  part  of  the  world,  for  among 
the  cannon  itl  the  arsenal  were,  a  good  number 
of  very  well  founded  ordnance,  apparently  of  the 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  889 

size  of  ong  nine-pounders,  as  old  as  the  years 
1664  and  1665.  -These  had  an  inscription  in 
the  Portuguese  language,  importing  that  they 
were  cast  in  Cochin  China,  or  Kamboja,  and  bear- 
ing the  dates  in  question,  with  the  name  of  the 
artist.  Although  very  inferior  indeed  to  those 
recently  cast  under  the  direction  of  the  French, 
still  they  were  very  good  specimens  of  workman- 
ship.  The  balls  and  shells  in  the  arsenal  through- 
out were  neatly  piled  up,  and  arranged  in  the 
European  method:  the  gun-carriages  were  all 
painted,  and  in  short  the  arsenal  was  in  the 
most  perfect  and  complete  order  in  all  its  organ- 
ization. 

The  chief  of  the  artillery  had  been  directed 
to  exhibit  the  whole  of  it  to  us,  and  we  found 
him  waiting  for  us  on  our  arrival.  This  was  one 
of  the  old  warriors  of  the  late  King,  a  venerable 
and  fine-looking  old  man,  habited  in  a  rich  suit  of 
velvet.  Besides  being  chief  of  the  arsenal  and  ar- 
tillery, this  Master  General  of  the  ordnance,  was 
also  intendant  of  the  household,  and  in  this  last 
situation,  according  to  all  accounts,  was  charged 
with  certain  details  scarcely  compatible  with  his 
military  character.  It  was  his  business,  for  ex- 
ample, to  superintend  the  royal  kitchen,  and  to 
make  a  registry  of  all  the  pregnancies  and  births 
within  the  seraglio,  that  all  possible  care  might 
be  taken  to  exclude  illegitimacy  from  its  sacred 
enclosures* 


S90  EMBASSY   TO  SIAH 

The  whole  of  the  eMlnoii  within  the  foirtified 
dty  ore  not  only  tmaed  on  platfoftns  to  proteet 
the  carriages  from  damp,  but  placed  tot  security 
against  the  weather  in  the  arsenal ;  and  there  is 
not  one  mounted  upon  the  w<Mrks»  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  few  upon  the  walls  of  the  citadd« 
The  cannon,  it  is  said»  which  are  required  for  the 
sixteen  bastions,  amount  to  five  hundred  and  se- 
venty-six, and  for  the  whole  of  the  works  the 
requisite  number  is  about  eight  hundred  I  do 
not  know  what  the  exact  number  in  the  arsenal 
is»  but  it  probably  far  exceeds  this  amount. 

The  powder  magazine  is  constructed  with  the 
same  intelligence  as  the  rest  of  the  works :  it  is 
fenced  by  a  strong  widl,  and  lias  a  broad  and 
deep  ditch  completely  surrounding  it.  Close  to 
it  is  an  extensive  parade,  £br  the  exaxdse  of  the 
troops. 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say,  that  against  an 
Asiatic  enemy  this  fortification  is  impregnable: 
its  great  fault  is  its  immense  extent  I  presume 
it  would  require  an  army  of  50,000  men  at  least, 
to  defend  it ; — a  force  which  would  be  far  more 
efiectually  employed  in  harassing  an  European 
enemy,  (the  only  enemy  to  be  apjurehended,)  by 
those  common  desultory  modes  of  warfare,  which 
it  is  alone  safe  for  an  Asiatic  enemy  to  oppose  to 
8  disciplined  army.  An  European  force,  either 
hy  making  regular  approaches,  or  by  a  bombardr 
ment,  could  not  faU  to  render  itself  soon  master 


,  AND  COCHIN  CHINA«  891 

of  the  place;  and  this  occurrence,  by  putting  it 
m  potaession  of  tiie  treasure,  the  granaries,  and 
principal  arsenal  of  the  kingdom,— by  destroying 
the  principal  army,  and  thus  cutting  off  all  the 
f^esonrces  of  the  Govemment, — would  be  virtually 
equivdent  to  conquering  the  kingdom  at  a  single 
blow.  We  did  not  reach  our  residence  till  eight 
o'clock  at  night, — ^well  drehched  and  fatigued,  but 
highly  gratified  at  the  novel  and  striking  scene 
which  we  had  witnessed. 

M.  Vanier  called  upon  us  to-day,  and  we  ac- 
companied him  on  a  visit  to  his  house.  M.  Vanier 
is  the  senior  French  Mandarin, — a  gentleman  oi 
pleasing  manners,  and  of  much  practical  informal 
tion  respecting  Cochin  China,  in  which  he  had 
now  resided  thirty-three  years.  He  Was  an  officer 
m  the  King's  marine ;— served  in  the  whole  of  his 
wi^  and  now  held  a  high  rank  and  title.  In  his 
youth,  he  served  in  the  French  navy,  and  was 
present  with  the  combined  French  and  American 
anny,  to  which  Lord  Comwallis  surrendered  at 
little  York,  as  well  as  in  the  actimi  between  the 
Comte  de  Grasse  and  Lord  Rodney.  He  had 
prints  of  the  battle  of  the  12th  of  April  on  the 
waUs  of  his  room,  and  dwelt  upon  its  details,— » 
pcMntibg  out  how  the.  French  ought  to  have  won 
it,  and  how  they  lost  it  through  the  errors  of  theur 
c(»nmaQder,  and  the  superior  skill  of  the  English 
admiral. 
,  M.  Vanier  told  us  that  he  and  M.  Chaigneau 


Sgi^  EAIBASSY   TO   81  AM 

had  been  sent  for  in  the  moniingby  the  King,  for 
the  express  purpose  of  being  asked  what  opinions 
we  had  given  respecting  the  new  fortifications  and 
other  public  works ;  and  that  he  was  gratified 
when  he  understood  that  we  had  expressed  great 
surprise  and  admiration  at  all  we  saw.  In  the 
course  of  conversation;  he  dwelt  upon  the  jealousy 
and  apprehension  which  the  extensive  conquests 
of  the  British  in  India  had  excited  among  the 
Cochin  Chinese  and  other  nations  of  the  farther 
East.  In  reference  to  the  Mission  of  Mr.  Ro- 
berts, in  1805,  he  remarked  upon  the  indiscretion 
of  some  of  the  presents  offered  by  us,  stating  that 
one  of  them  was  a  series  of  prints  representing 
the  capture  of  Seringapatam,  and  the  death  of 
Tippoo  Sultaun ! !  .  When  the  late  King  saw 
these,  he  said,  "  The  Governor-general  of  India 
wishes  to  intimidate  me,  by  exhibiting  to  me  the 
fate  of  this  Indian  prince." 

Oct  1. — We  called  this  morning  upon  M. 
Chaigneau,  the  other  French  Mandarin.  This 
gentleman  had  been  twenty-eight  or  twenty-nine 
years  in  the  country.  He  returned  to  France 
in  1819»  and  came  back  with  the  appointment  of 
Consul-general  for  Cochin  China,  from  the  French 
Court  We  did  not  find  M.  Chaigneau  at  home; 
he  had  been  summoned  to  a  council  by  the  King, 
but  we  were  received  by  his  son  and  nephew — 
the  latter  an  intelligent  young  man,  lately  come 
from  France.     In  company  with  these  gentlemen. 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  393 

we  visited  the  great  market,  which  appeared  to 
he  well  stocked  with  all  the  usual  articles  of  na- 
tive consumption. 

Returning  home,  there  was  pointed  out  to  us, 
but  we  were  not  allowed  to  visit  them,  some 
singular  temples  on  the  western  side  of  the  river. 
These,  which  I  think  were  six  in  number,  and 
constructed  of  stone  and  lime,  with  tiled  roofs, 
were  surrounded  by  an  extensive  wall  of  masonry 
and  appeared  altogether  neat  and  spacious.  They 
compose  a  sort  of  pantheon,  built  by  the  late 
Emperor,  and  consecrated  to  the  manes  of  de- 
parted Mandarins  of  the  military  class.  There 
is  a  similar  group  farther  up  the  river,  conse- 
crated to  the  souls  of  worthies  of  the  literary  or 
civil  order. 

In  these  temples  the  bodies  are  not  buried, 
and  nothing  more  is  done  than  dedicating  a  small 
pillar  to  each  of  the  departed,  on  which  his  name 
is  inscribed.  These  cenotaphs  have  no  priests,  and 
are  kept  constantly  shut,  except  on  the  annual 
festival  set  aside  for  the  performance  of  religious 
honours  to  the  souls  of  deceased  ancestors.  Among 
the  heroes  whose  names  are  honoured  with  a  mo- 
nument in  the  military  cenotaph,  are  a  French- 
man and  an  Irishman.  The  first  was  a  corporal, 
of  the  name  of  Manuel,  who  blew  himself  up  in 
a  small  vessel,  when  about  to  fall  into  the  hands 
of  the  Tysons.  Our  countryman  was  an  officer, 
— a  person  of  great  gallantry,  and  a  favourite  of 


394  EMBASSY  TO  BIMH 

the  King,  but  I  could  tot  lemi  hn  tuoae.  Hie 
King  WM  desirous  of  giving  an  eminent  plaoe  in 
the  literary  cenotaph  to  the  soul  ci  the  Bishop  of 
Adran,  and  spoke  to  him  on  the  subject; — ^but  the 
catholic  prejudices  of  the  latter  revolted  against 
it;  and  it  was  one  of  his  dying  requests,  that 
this  pagan  compliment  mi^t  not  be  paid  to  his 
memory.  The  Bishop  is  buried  within  four  miles 
of  Saigun,  at  which  place  he  died  in  1799«  A 
handsome  moniunent  was  erected  to  him,  at 
which,  during  the  life-time  of  the  late  King; 
a  g^ard  of  two  hundred  soldiers  kept  constant 
watch.  We  were  not  acquainted  with  this  cur^ 
cumstance,  when  we  were  at  Saiguri,  or  we 
should  certainly  have  paid  our  respects  at  the 
tomb  of  so  remaikable  a  person. 

OeL  2. — Shortly  after  our  return  hcnAe  from 
our  excursion  yesterday,  the  Intendant  of  the 
Fort  waited  upon  us  with  a  communication 
from  the  Minister ;  and  the  two  Fr^ich  Man-* 
darins,  by  order  of  the  King,  shortly  afterwards 
joined  him,  to  assist  in  explaining  the  Minis- 
ter's  message.  The  Intendant  of  the  Fort  he* 
gan  by  informing  us,  that  every  thing  bbing 
now  settled,  we  were  at  perfect  liberty  to  go 
abroad  wherever  we  pleased;  that  we  might 
again  visit  any  part  of  the  fortifications  we 
wished,  or  go  into  the  country,  on  shooting 
excursions,  or,  in  short,  take  any  other  amuse* 
ment  we    thought   proper.      This  part  of  the 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  39^ 

coBamumtttioii  was  said  to  ccme  direetlj  from 
the  EoDg  liimself^  ivho  desired  us  not  to  take 
offence  at  the  guards  placed  over  our  dwelling, 
which  wore  intaided  only  to  protect  ys  i^ainst 
the  impiHrtunate  curiosity  of  the  lower  classes  of 
the  peoj^e^  ilnd  to  prevent  depredaticms  upon 
our  property,  which,  were  they  to  take  place, 
would  be  a  matter  of  inddible  disgrace  to  the 
Cochin  Chinese  Govemment. 

The  subject  of  the  presents  was  then  intro^ 
duced.  We  were  informed  that  the  King  could 
not  accept  of  any  part  of  them,  because,  as  it 
was  alleged,  we  had  come  here  only  to  ask  for 
trade,  and  had  not  yet  gained  any  actual  ad- 
vantage from  our  intercourse.  It  was  added, 
that  as  soon  as  we  should  have  reaped  any  be- 
n^t  from  a  connexion  with  Cochin  China,  the 
King  would  be  happy  to  accept  of  any  thing 
that  should  be  presaited  to  hitn^  On  this  pmnt 
we  answered,  thut  we  had  no  observation  what- 
ever to  make,  and  that  His  Majesty  would  ac- 
cept or  refuse  the  presaits  as  he  thought  best. 
Great  care  was  tak^i  to  show  no  disappointment 
at  the  refusal  of  the  presents,  and  in  conse- 
quence some  uneasiness  appeared  to  be  felt  by 
the  Cochin  Chinese  at  the  indifferaice  which  we 
Evinced  on  this  subject.  The  Intendant  of  the 
Fort  intreated  on  behalf  of  his  chief,  that  no 
unfriendly  construction  might  be  put  upon  the 
r^eotion  of  the  pres^ots  by  His  Majesty,  and  a 


S96  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

quiet  assurance  was  given  by  us  that  no  un- 
favourable impression  whatever  was  produced 
by  this  circumstance. 

The  subject  of  trade  was  next  introduced, 
and  on  this  point  entire  satisfaction  was  given; 
more,  in  fact,  being  conceded,  than  was  con- 
templated by  the  Indian  Government,  or  than 
it  was  believed  when  the  Mission  was  determin- 
ed upon,  that  the  supposed  anti-commercial  pre- 
judices of  the  Cochin  Chinese  would  have  ad- 
mitted. It  was  stated,  that  all  the  ports  of 
the  Cochin  Chinese  empire  worth  frequenting 
would  be  open  to  British  commerce,  upon  the 
same  terms  as  to  the  Chinese  of  Canton,  and 
that  official  copies  of  the  tariff  and  regulations 
of  trade  would  be  furnished.  We  desired  to 
know  whether  the  port  of  Kachao  in  Tonquin, 
and  of  Kangkao  or  Hattian  in  Kamboja,  were 
included  among  those  where  British  trade  would 
be  admissible.  The  Mandarin  answered,  that 
the  ports  contemplated  by  the  Court  were  those 
of  Saigun,  Faifo,  Touran,  and  Hu6,  but  that 
Kachao  and  Hattian,  at  our  desire,  would  be 
added  to  the  number. 

The  French  Mandarins,  by  authority  of  the 
King,  introduced  the  subject  of  His  Majesty's 
declining  to  grant  us  an  audience,  and  stated 
expressly,  that  as  this  had  been  refused  to 
others  in  our  situation,  it  could  not  now  be 
consistently  granted.     The    circumstances  con- 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  897 

nected  with  a  recent  Embassy  from  the  Court 
of  France,  and  which  had  scarcely  been  hinted 
at  before,  were  now  distinctly  brought  forward 
as  a  conclusive  reason  for  His  Majesty's  declin- 
ing to  grant  us  ah  audience,  and  accepting  the 
presents  of  the  Governor-general.  The  French 
gentlemen  stated  that  on  the  25th  of  Decem- 
ber, 1817,  the  French  frigate  Cybelle,  of  forty 
guns,  arrived  at  Touran  with  a  mission  from 
the  French  Government.  The  Envoy  was  M. 
Adhille  de  Kargariou,  a  captain  of  the  first  class 
in  the  French  Navy.  He  was  charged  with 
a  letter  from  the  Minister  of  Marine  to  the 
first  Minister  of  the  Cochin  Chinese  Govern- 
ment, arid  with  valuable  presents  from  the  King 
of  France  to  His  Majesty  of '  Cochin  China, 
but  there  was  no  letter  from  the  one  Sovereign 
to  the  other.  The  King  of  Cochin  China  con- 
sequently refused  to  grant  the  Envoy  an  au- 
dience, and  even  declined  to  receive  any  of  the 
presents.  This  happened  during  the  lifetime  of 
his  late  Majesty ;  the  same  prince  who  lay  under 
so  many  obligisttions,  if  not  to  the  French  nation, 
at  least  to  many  individuals  of  that  couhtiy 
Whatever  might  have  been  the  ostensible  reasons 
for  refusing  to  receive  the  French  Envoy  and 
the  presents  of  the  King  of  France,  there  is 
good  ground  for  believing  that  the  true  cause 
was  the  nature  of  the  demands  which  the  Envoy 
was  instructed  to  make.     He  is  alleged  to  have 


398  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM 

isquired  the  fulfilment  of  the  treaty  of  1787, 
by  which  a  eonnderable  territorial  cessioii,  and 
many  other  polifieal  advantages,  were  yielded  to 
France.  But  the  situation  of  the  C^ochin  CSiinese 
monardi  was  now  very  Afferent  from  what  it  had 
been  when  he  signed  that  convention^  the  hard 
conditions  of  which  were  extorted  from  Inm  fay 
his  necessities  only,  nor  could  he  now,  in  his  pro- 
sperity, be  expected  to  receive  with  complacency 
a  proposal  for  its  renewal,  especially  since  he  hitei 
surmounted  all  his  difficulties  without  its  assist- 
anoe.  Upon  this  subject,  of  course,  nothing  was 
said  by  the  French  Mandarins,  nor  did  itbeoome 
us  to  put  any  questions. 

Oct.  3. — In  company  with  the  French  gaitle- 
men,  we  made  last  ev^iing  an  excursion  into  the 
environs  of  the  town,  taking  with  us  our  fowling^ 
pieces.  Our  journey,  which  lasted  several  hours, 
took  us  over  a  good  deal  of  the  country  on  both 
hanks  of  the  river.  Although  the  soil  is  light 
and  sandy,  it  is  every  where  in  a  high  state  of 
cultivation,  and  this  consisti  of  rice,  mulberry*^ 
trees^  cotton,  and  orchaids  of  fruit-trees.  It  is 
tfaiddy  strewed  with  vilFi^es,  universally  sur« 
rounded  by  hedges  of  live  bamboo;  and  I  am 
told  this  last  appearance  is  general  throughout  the 
mhalnited  country.  The  banks  of  the  riva:  are 
well  raised,  and  in  some  places  extremely  pic* 
turesque  and  beautiful,  more  resembling  the 
scenery  of  an  Eufopean,  than  a  tropieal  cmmtry. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  S99 

Hii^  isi  I  daie  say,  the  only  Indian  dty  in  the 
East*  the  ndghbourhood  of  whieh  has  good  roadi^ 
good  bridges  and  canals.  Here  are  a  number  ci 
highways,  straight,  broad,  and  well  constructed, 
and  besides  the  stone  bridges  connected  with  the 
fortifications,  there  are  a  number  of  wood^  ones, 
extremely  neat,  and  built  on  European  rules.  In 
the  course  of  the  excursion  now  described,  we 
passed  along  the  banks  of  a  deep  and  regular 
canal,  which  extends,  as  we  weire  told»  for  twehre 
<nr  fourteen  miles,  and  serves  the  double  purpose 
of  irrigation  and  navigation.  'Boats  laden  with 
rice,  juat  as  it  had  been  reaped,  were  passing 
along  it  to  the  dty.  By  means  of  many  cainals 
of  the  same  description,  and  embankments  to^ 
wards  the  sea,  extensive  tracts  of  land  have  been 
Tmdered  available  to  agriculture,  which  were  be- 
fore flooded  by  the  tide,  and  therefore  a  waste. 

All  this  was  the  work  of  the  late  Kmg,  whose 
active  mind  appears  to  have  been  devoted  to  pro- 
jects sometimes  of  utility,  but  of ti»er  of  osten- 
tation and  ambition.  It  is  pvoba]3^e,  that  Im 
subjects  lost  at  least  as  much  by  the  last  as  they 
gflpmed  by  the  first.  All  public  works  axe  accom- 
plished by  corves  and  forced  contributions^  which 
ate  an  intolerable  burthen  to  the  people.  The 
new  fortiess,  scarcely  yet  completed,  has  been, 
fcff  example,  entirdy  constructed  on  this  prindple, 
and  has  been  now  seventeen  years  in  executing. 
In  sudi  a  state  of  sodety  and  goveinm<mt,  there 


400  EMBASSY   TO  SIAM. 

can  be  no  security  that  the  labour  of  the  people 
shall  not  be  wasted,  even  under  the  most  respect- 
able princes,  in  schemes  of  folly  or  ostentation, 
or  in  monuments  of  superstition.  The  late  King, 
for  exJEunple,  constructed  a  splendid  mausoleum 
and  laid  out  extensive  gardens,  as  a  place  of  inter- 
ment for  himself  and  his  favourite  Queen,  upon 
which  thousands  of  his  subjects  were  occupied 
for  years.  The  following  account  of  these  gar- 
dens was  given  to  us.  They  are  situated  in  a 
romantic  part  of  the  mountains,  and  about  ten 
leagues  to,  the  north  of  the  capital.  The  toinlw 
are  the  least  splendid  part  of  this  undertaking, 
which  consists  besides,  of  spacious  gardens  and 
groves,  laid  out  in  walks  and  tenaces,  and,  as  it 
is  said,  with  no  mean  taste.  In  the  course  of  this 
splendid  undertaking,  hills  were  levelled,— mounds 
thrown  across  from  one  hill  to  another,—  canals  and 
tanks  dug,  and  spacious  roads  constructed.  The 
Queen,  a  woman  of  great  beauty  and  merit,  who 
had  accompanied  her  husband  in  his  exile  in 
Siarh,— in  his  retreat  among  the  desert  islands, 
in  the  Gulf  of  that  name,  and  who  was  besides 
his  constant  companion  in  all  his  warlike  expe- 
ditions by  sea  and  land,  was  buried  here  about 
seven  ye&ps  before  our  visit.  Four  years  after* 
wards,  the  King  -himself  wajs  placed  by  her  side. 
The  same  spot,  before  being  decorated  in  the 
present  magnificent  manner,  was  also  the  ancient 
burying-ground  of  the  predecessors  of  the  present 


AKD   COCHIN   CHINA.  401 

race  of  kings.  The  place  was  represented  to 
us  as  a  delicious  and  a  romantic  spot,  exceed- 
ing in  beauty  every  other,  scene  in  the  country. 
We  wished  for  permission  to  pay  it  a  visit,  but 
were  politely  informed  that  the  King  was  al^ 
ways  reluctant  to  permit  the  visits  of  strangers^ 
whose  presence,  he  said,  might  "  trouble  the 
repose  of  the  spirits  of  his  ancestors'^ 

In  the  course  of  the  day's  excursion  now  de- 
scribed we  visited  two  temples.  One,  a  spacious 
and  large  building,  was  dedicated  to  the  ordi- 
nary form  of  Chinese  worship ;  but  the  other,  a 
mean  little  building  in  one  of  the  villages,  af- 
forded the  first  example  which  we  had  seen  of 
the  worship  of  Buddha  or  Gautama.  There 
were  two  altars  in  this  last,  on  the  principal  of 
which  was  an  image  of  this  Indian  divinity 
sitting  cross-legged.  It  was  made  of  wood,  but 
gilded,  with  the  exception  of  the  head,  which 
was  painted  black.  The  features  had  a  kind  of 
negro  cast,  and,  like  the  representations  of  the 
same  object  of  worship  in  Siam,  the  hair  of 
the  head  was  curled.  There  were  several  paint- 
ings of  Buddha  also  upon  the  wall.  On  the  other 
altar  was  the  figure  of  two  storks  in  carved 
wood,  such  as  we  had  seen  at  Kandyu.  There 
was  but  one  priest  belonging  to  this  temple,  and 
be  was  sick,  so  that  we  could  not  see  him.  The 
priesthood,  of  whatever  form  of  worship,  is  but 
in  slender  repute  in  Cochin  China.     Instead  of 

VOL.  I.  2d 


402  *    EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

Stumbling  on  one  at  every  step,  as  in  our  walks 
in  Siam,  here,  from  their  small  number,  we 
scarcely  ever  met  any. 

In  our  excursion  to-day,  we  were  a  good  deal 
surprised  at  discovering,  among  the  feathared 
tribe,  an  early  and  familiar  acquaintance,  which 
I  had  not  seen  before  in  any  put  of  India; 
— this  was  the  common  European  magpie  (Cw^ 
VM  Pica),  which  was  in  considerable  numbers 
about  all  the  villages.  Its  habits,  manners^  and 
appearance,  seemed  to  differ  in  no  respect  from 
those  of  the  European  species. 

Oct.  4. — Mr.  Chaigneau  entertained  us  yes- 
terday, at  his  house  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 
The  repast  was  entirely  French.  We  had  been 
entertained  in  a  similar  manner,  the  day  before, 
at  M.  Vanier's.  All  the  French  at  the  |>laoe 
were  on  both  occasions  invited  to  meet  us*  These 
consisted  of  a  gentleman  of  the  medical  pro- 
fession, who  was  old  enough  to  have  been  a  uf- 
geon  of  the  first  class  in  the  fleet  of  M.  Suffrein, 
of  the  nephew  of  M.  Chaigneau,  and  of  his  two 
sons  bom  in  the  country.  The  Missionaries  aoe 
all  in  a  place  fifteen  leagues  distant,  and  we  did 
not  see  any  of  them.  The  lady  of  M.  Chaig- 
neau  is  the  daughter  of  a  French  gentleman, 
and  accompanied  her  husband  to  France  three 
years  ago.  Mad.  Vanier  is  a  Cochin  Chinese, 
a  fine-looking  woman,  tall,  and  as  fair  as  a  na- 
tive of  the  South  of  Europe.    Both  the  gen- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  408 

tiemen  and  ladies  dress  in  the  Cochin  Chinese 
£u;hioo — a  complianoe  with  the  customs  of  the 
country,  indispensable  to  every  stranger  who 
takes  up  his  permanent  residence  in  it.  Evett 
the  Chinese,  who  ajce  not  very  traotaUe  in  mat- 
ters of  this  nature^  ace  obliged  to  submit  to  it$ 
for  such  is  the  vanity  of  the  people^  that  thi^ 
dress  of  a  stranger,  of  whatever  country,  is  .coiv 
sidered  by  them  ^  nothing  less  thau  ridiculou€f, 
and  is  sure  to  attracjt  so  much  curiosity  as  to  prove 
very  inconvenient. 

Our  hosts,  the  French  Mandarins,  w^e  m 
politics  decided  Royalists ;  and  it  was  their  de- 
votion to  royalty  that  fixed  them,  and  the  greats 
number  of  their  countrymen,  in  this  remote 
quarter  of  the  world.  In  short,  it  was  the  French 
Revolution  which  achieved  the  revolution  in 
Cochin  China,  and  established  the  existing  order 
of  things  in  that  country.  Whatever  thax  po- 
litical feelings,  however,  like  all  good  Frenehmcsn, 
our  friends  were  warm  lovers  of  their  coiuitry. 
In  their  conduct  to  ourselves,  nothing  could  surr 
pass  their  politeness,  hospitality,  and  real  kind^ 
ness ;  and  I  trust  we  shall  always  have  a  grateful 
recollection  of  their  attentions.* 

While  w«  were  at  M.  Chaigneau's,  a  message 

^  These  gentlemen  have  .all  quitted  Cochin  China  since; 
aii4  I  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  1;he  greater  number  of  them 
at  Singapore^  on  their  way  to  France^  in  1825. 

2  D  3 


404  EMBASSY   TO   SIAK 

was  brought  to  us  to  say,  that  at  18  o'clock,  a  de^ 
putation  of  two  Mandarins  would  wait  upon  us, 
at  our  residence,  with  a  present  of  fruit  and  con- 
fectionary from   his   Majesty,  and  we  were  re- 
•quested  to  return  home  without  loss  of  time  to 
receive  it,  that  no  mistakes  or  delay  might  take 
place  on  a  subject  of  so  much  importance.    We 
returned  accordingly,  and  found  the  house  already 
spread  with  mats,  and  all  requisite  preparatioR 
making,  with  great  formality,  for  the  reception  of 
his  Majesty's  gift.      This  consisted  of  a  ready- 
dressed  entertainment,   contained  in  four  very 
•handsome  varnished  and  gilded  cases,  carried  by 
porters,  accompanied  by  a  military  guard,   and 
preceded  by  a  military  and   civil   Mandarin  of 
rank,  with  their  secretary, — all  in  their  dresses  of 
ceremony.    The  Mandarins  wore  a  cap  of  a  pecu- 
liar form,  and  on  a  square  piece  of  silk,  on  the 
-breast  of  their  gown,  was  embroidered  the  badge 
of  their  order.     That  of  the  military  chief  was  a 
boar,  and  of  the  man  of  letters  a  stork.     The 
utmost  formality  was  observed  throughout  the 
whole  of  this  affair,  as  if  it  had  been  a  matter 
of  the  first  consequence  to  both  parties.    We  re- 
ceived the  deputation  at  the  bottom  of  the  stairs. 
In  the  long  portico  of  the  house,  Mr.  Finlayson 
and  myself,  with  our  Indian  servants,  stood  on 
one  side,  and  the  Mandarins,  with  their  follow- 
ers, on  the  other,  forming  a  street  for  the  pre- 
sents which  passed  between  us.    A  list  of  them 


M%^.,IIIC'i;jK:i:T   (u,i^  "iiivy.    CII'7I]^    iI]^'R.T;;h::E^, : 


IT  :h[is  rjft.^iss  <U)y  c  jerk  .v.: 


r.-l[/.:TjlTA.F,]:ri  ^?T:ii:i!^  :7i::rL:iT/HY  C'ltjj':^:^,::^  .r-::-:  ii:^:RK::n  oii^  cz]R3^X': 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  405 

was  then  read  by  the  secretary  from  a  scroll  of 
paper  with  much  formality,  and  the  honour  con^ 
ferred  upon  us  duly  notified.  There  is  nothing 
of  the  slightest  moment  done  here,  in  public 
matters,  without  writing — whereas  at  Siam,  on 
the  other  hand,  it  was  found  impossible  to  get 
the  officers  of  Government  to  commit  a  single 
sentence  to  paper  upon  almost  any  subject. 
After  the  list  was  read,  we  were  politely  request- 
ed to  turn  towards  the  presents,  and  make  them 
an  obeisance  after  our  own  manner,  which  Mr. 
Finlayson  and  myself  complied  with.  After 
this  ceremony  the  Mandarins  were  presented 
with  tea,  and  took  their  departure  with  the  same 
formalities  as  they  had  come.  It  was  suggested 
to  us  through  the  Mandarin  of  Touran,  that  it 
would  be  a  proper  mark  of  respect  to  his  Ma- 
jesty's gift,  to  make  an  offer  of  a  sum  of  money 
to  the  Mandarins  who  brought  it,  which,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  would  be  declined,  but  that  the 
offer  alone  would  have  the  appearance  of  a  hand- 
some acknowledgment  of  his  Majesty's  condescen- 
sion. This  proposal  I  rejected,  informing  the 
Mandarins,  that  if  the  money  were  really  to  be 
accepted,  it  should  be  given,  but  that  nothing 
would  be  tendered  for  the  avowed  purpose  of 
being  rejected,  such  not  being  our  custom.  This 
was  acquiesced  in,  after  some  hesitation  and  a 
good  deal  of  disappointment. 
Oct.  5. —The  Mandarin  of  Touran  called  upon 


406  EMBASSY  TO   SIAM 

iifl  this  morning,  and  entered  into  fanutisr  con- 
versation. The  points  on  which  he  was  most 
anxious  for  information^  were  the  reason  of  our 
long  war  with  France,  and  the  cause  of  our  sepa^- 
ntion  from  the  Amerieans,  who,  he  observed, 
were,  in  look,  manners,  and  language,  the  same 
88  ourselves.  These  were  intricate  questions,  to 
which  it  would  have  been  extremely  difficult  to 
have  given  answers  that  would  have  been  either 
satisfaetorj  or  intelligible  to  his  mind,  and  no 
direct  attempt  at  explanation  was  made  on  our 
part. 

Oct  6. — ^Yesterday  forenoon,  the  old  Inten- 
dant  of  the  Port  called  with  a  message  from  the 
Minister,  on  the  subject  of  our  trade.  It  seemed 
that  the  question  had  been  discussed  yesterday 
morning  in  the  council  where  the  King  in  per- 
son was  present.  The  question  now  put  to  us 
was,  whether,  in  levying  the  duties  upon  our 
ships,  we  should  prefer  having  a  fixed  sum  for 
vessels  of  all  dimensions,  of  3000  quans,  or  a 
rated  impost,  as  levied  upon  the  Chinese  junks, 
according  to  the  breadth  of  the  vessel's  beam. 
The  Second  proposal  was  of  course  preferred,  not 
only  as  the  most  fair  and  advantageous,  but  as 
that  least  repugnant  to  custom  and  usage. 

After  this  point  had  been  disposed  of,  the  In« 
tendant  of  the  Port  requested  to  know  what 
articles  the  English  could  import  into  Cochin 
China,  cheap  enough  for  the  Cochin  Chinese  to 


AKD  COCHIN  CHINA.  407 

purchase.  Cotton  fabrics,  woollens,  iron,  fire- 
arms, lead,  tin,  and  salt*petre,  were  mentioned 
as  staple  articles.  He  pointed  out  woollens  as 
the  most  suitable  of  these,  stating  that  the  King's 
army  was  clothed  in  English  woollens;  and  he 
suggested  iron  as  a  fit  article  of  importation  into 
Saigun.  He  strongly  recommended  that  our 
ships,  on  their  return  from  China,  should  touch  at 
the  ports  of  Cochin  China  for  cargoes,  bringing 
with  them  Chinese  goods  which  were  in  univer- 
sal demand  in  the  country. 

We  had  a  message  in  the  morning  to  say, 
that  a  deputation  would  wait  upon  us  in  the 
course  of  the  day,  with  another  present  from  his 
Majesty,  consisting,  as  before,  of  an  entertain- 
ment About  three  o'clock  it  arrived,  with  the 
same  forms  and  ceremonies  as  upon  the  first  oc- 
casion; and  one  of  the  Mandarins,  a  matter 
which  was  pointed  out  as  a  mark  of  particular 
attention,  was  the  fourth  person  in  rank  about 
the  Court.  After  the  entertainment  was  laid  out 
upon  six  small  tables  in  an  adjoining  apartment, 
the  Mandarins  requested  that  we  would  be  pleas- 
ed to  go  and  '^  admire  it,"  which  was  the  ex- 
pression made  use  of.  In  point  of  quantity  it 
was  certainly  more  than  abundant  for  two  gen- 
tlemen,, one  of  them  in  delicate  health,  for  it 
consisted  of  fifty-two  covers.  The  cookery  was 
by  no  means  contemptible,  and  the  feast  was 
served  up  in  a  very  neat  and  cleanly  manner. 


40S  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

It  principally  consisted  of  pork,  fish,  and  poul- 
try, prepared  in  a  great  variety  of  forms,  and 
of  abundance  of  confectionary.  One  of  the  Co- 
chin Chinese  dainties  served  up  on  this  occasion 
ought  not  to  be  omitted ;  it  consisted  of  three 
bowls  of  hatched  eggs.  When  we  expressed 
some  surprise  at  the  appearance  of  this  portion 
of  the  repast,  one  of  our  Cochin  Chinese  atten- 
dants observed,  with  much  naivete,  that  hatched 
eggs  formed  a  delicacy  beyond  the  reach  of  the 
poor,  and  only  adapted  for  persons  of  distinction. 
On  inquiry,  we,  in  fact,  found  that  they  cost 
some  thirty  per  cent,  more  in  the  market  than 
fresh  ones.  It  seems,  they  always  form  a  distin- 
guished part  of  every  great  entertainment ;  and 
it  is  the  practice,  when  invitations  are  given  out, 
to  set  the  hens  to  hatch.  The  f§te  takes  place 
about  the  tenth  or  twelfth  day  from  this  pe- 
riod,—the  eggs  being  then  considered  as  ripe, 
and  exactly  in  the  state  most  agreeable  to  the 
palate  of  a  Cochin  Chinese  epicure.  It  is  sin- 
gular that  the  Cochin  Chinese,  who  are  in  ge- 
neral indiscriminate,  and  even  gros^  in  their 
diet,  have  an  antipathy  to  milk,  amounting  to 
loathing.  They  insist,  that  the  practice  of  using 
it  as  food  is  little  better  than  that  of  drinking 
raw  blood.  Our  Indian  servants,  to  the  great 
scandal  of  the  Cochin  Chinese,  not  only  declined 
partaking  of  the  royal  banquet,  but  felt  their 
prejudices  much  shocked  at  some  of  the  details 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  409 

of  it.  I  proposed  distributing  the  principal  part 
of  it  among  our  Cochin  Chinese  guard,  and  for 
this  purpose  sent  for  the  commander.  He  said, 
he  dared  not  lay  a  finger  upon  what  came  from 
the  King,  without  an  express  command;  and  it 
was  found  necessary  to  send  a  message  to  the 
Mandarins  of  the  deputation,  to  obtain  the  ne- 
cessary leave. 

Oct.  8. — We  made  another  short  excursion  into 
the  country  yesterday,  accompanied- by  some  of 
the  French  gentlemen,  and  in  returning  home 
passed  through  the  principal  part  of  the  town. 
The  appearance  of  the  country  was  such  as  I 
have  already  described  it, — thickly  strewed  with 
villages,  all  surrounded  by  bamboo  hedges,  and 
having  good  pathways  communicating  between 
them.  The  soil,  as  before  experienced,  was  light 
and  sandy.  We  entered  several  temples,  none  of 
them  dedicated  to  the  religion  of  Buddha.  On 
the  altar  of  one  temple  there  was  the  figure  of 
the  cap  or  coronet  of  a  female  of  rank,  and 
under  it  an  inscription.  This  temple,  which  was. 
an  extremely  neat  and  pretty  building,  was,  we 
were  told,  founded  by  a  pious  lady.  We  found 
all  these  temples  carefully  locked  up ;  but,  when 
requested,  they  were  readily  thrown  open  to 
gra^tTy  our  curiosity.  There  was  not  a  single 
priest,  as  far  as  we  could  discover^  attached  to 
any  of  them.  • 

One  of  the   most  striking  objects  in  Cochin 


410  EMBASSY  TO   SIAH 

Chinese  landsa^  is,  the  Httle  idigidus  proves 
which  are  here  and  there  interspersed  among 
the  villages^  and  commonly  near  the  burying* 
places.  Of  these  we  saw  many  in  the  course  of 
this  day's  excursion.  They  are  of  a  circular  form, 
and  consist  of  a  variety  of  thick  and  umbrageous 
trees.  A  single  entrance  conducts  by  a  winding 
passage  to  the  centre  of  them,  where  th^e  is  an 
op^n  space,  and  one  or  more  little  temples,  or  ra- 
ther rude  altars.  These  retreats  are  consecrated 
to  the  manes  of  the  dead,  and  their  gloom  and 
solemnity  render  them  well-suited  to  this  purpose. 
Oct  10. — Having  made  application  to  the  Mi- 
nister to  return  to  Touran  by  land,  and  afterwarda 
to  visit  Faifo,  we  received  a  civil  message  from 
him  yesterday,  to  say  that  we  should  be  allowed 
to  return  in  the  manner  most  agreeable  to  our* 
selves,  and  that  an  order  would  be  sent  to  Faifo 
to  receive  us  with  attention.  A  Chinese  mer- 
chant of  respectability  called  upon  us  in  the  course 
of  this  day,  and  furnished  much  information  re- 
specting the  trade  between  Hu^  and  China* 
The  resident  Chinese  are  the  class  of  persons 
to  be  chiefly  relied  upon  in  these  parts  of  the 
world  for  useful  information,  and  I  have  seldom 
applied  to  them  in  vain.  They  possess  a  degree 
of  practical  good  sense  and  intelligence  scarcely 
ever  to  be  found  in  the  natives  of  the  country. 
The  individual  in  question  spoke  in  discouraging 
terms  of  all  commercial  transactions  with    the 


AND   COCHIN  CRIKA.  411 

Court,  and  on  this  subject  used  the  following 
stitmg  expression  t  "  Men  of  rank  are  full  of 
caprice  in  this  country^  and  there  is  nothing 
but  vexation  to  be  got  by  dealing  with  them* 
If,  for  example,  you  offer  them  for  sale  a  set 
of  tea-dishes,  it  may  happen  that  they  will  fanep^ 
the  cups  and  reject  the  saucers, — or  the  con- 
trary. I  never,*'  he  added,  "have  a  transaction 
with  them,  that  I  do  not  feel  my  neck  the  smaller 
for  it  f — meaning,  of  course,  by  this  expression, 
that  he  never  thought  his  life  altogether  safe 
upon  such  occasions.  This  person  informed  us, 
that  a  good  deal  of  suspicion  and  jealousy  re^ 
garding  our  views  were  entertained  on  our  first 
arrival,  which  had  now  abated.  I  have  reason, 
indeed,  to  confide  in  the  fidelity  of  this  report 
of  the  apprehensions  of  the  Cochin  Chinese,  of 
which,  in  the  course  of  our  visit,  we  received 
many  proofs.  Among  others,  I  may  mention 
the  following:  A  Chinese,  on  the  day  of  our 
arrival,  sent  us  word  through  our  interpreter, 
an  old  acquaintance,  that  he  did  not  believe  the 
Court  would  allow  the  English  to  trade  to  the 
country,  as  they  desired  no  intercourse  whatever 
with  them.*  The  expression  he  used  was,  that 
"  the  Cochin  Chinese  looked  upon  the  men  with 
i*ed  hair  and  white  teeth, — that  is  to  say,  Euro- 
peans,^—to  be  as  naturally  prone  to  war  and  de- 
pr^ation  as  tigers.*' 

In  the  evening  we  made  another  excursion  into' 


412  EMBASSY  TO  SIAH 

the  oountiy.  A  little  below  the  town  we  entered 
a  considerable  river,  which  is  navigable  almost  all 
the  way  to  Tonquin.  Every  spot  of  ground,  as 
far  as  we  could  see,  was  weU  cultivated.  This 
was  the  period  of  ploughing  for  the  great  rice 
harvest,  and  a  number  of  ploughs  were  at  work* 
The  soil  was  so  light,  that  a  single  buiSalo  was 
sufficient  for  a  plough.  In  a  few  spots,  favour- 
ably situated  for  irrigation,  the  grain  was  already 
in  the  ear.  It  appeared  a  very  light  crop,  as 
might  have  been  expected  from  the  nature  of  the 
soO.  In  Java,  or  Bengal,  or  Siam,  it  would 
have  been  looked  upon  as  a  poor  one.  After 
proceeding  some  way  on  the  river  above  named, 
we  turned  into  a  canal,  or  rather  a  branch  of 
the  main  stream.  This  leads  into  a  salt-water 
lake,  about  two  miles  distant,  and  also  commu- 
nicates with  the  great  river  of  the  capital.  The 
salt-lake  in  questicHi  abounds  in  fish,  and  we  met 
a  number  of  boats  on  their  way  to  it.  The  Cochin 
Chinese  are  great  consumers  of  fish ;  and  their 
seas,  rivers,  lakes,  canals,  and  even  brooks,  afford 
a  great  supply.  The  fisheries  indeed  exhibit 
almost  the  only  active  display  of  industry  which 
is  to  be  seen  among  them. 

At  night  we  received  accounts  that  our  launch, 
which  we  had  despatched  some  days  ago  with 
our  heavy  baggage,  had  fortunately  succeeded  in 
crossing  the  bar  of  the  river,  after  having  been 
detained  by   a .  heavy  and  dangerous  surf,  and 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA,  418 

ivhich,  now  that  the  north-east  monsoon  had 
fairly  set  in,  rendered  the  entrance  generally 
impassahle. 

Oct  12. — The  French  Mandarins  called  upon 
us  yesterday,  by  order  of  the  King,  to  inform 
us,  that  to-day  the  Foreign  Minister  would  show 
us  the  answer  to  the  letter  of  the  /Governor- 
general, — that  to-morrow  certain  presents  intend- 
ed for  the  Grovemor-general  would  be  presented 
to  us  in  the  hall  of  ceremonies   in  the  palace ; 
and  that  on  the  succeeding  day,  or  as  soon  after 
as    we  should  be  inclined,    every  thing  would 
be    in    readiness    for  our  journey  overland  to 
Touran.    At  an  early  hour  this  morning,  a  barge 
was  ready  to  convey  us  to  the  house  of   the 
Mandarin  of  Elephants,   and  we  set  out  imme- 
diately after  breakfast.      The  French  Mandarins 
accompanied  us.       We  found  the  Minister  in 
the  hall  where  he    had    formerly-  received    us. 
Along  with  him  were  his  two    assistants,  and 
two    Mandarins     deputed   by    his    Majesty    to 
present  the  letter  to  us.      After  some  compli* 
mentary  observations,  we  proceeded  to  business. 
The  Minister  began  with  some  remarks  touch- 
ing our  visit   to  Saigun,  and  asked  whether  it 
was   the  custom  with   us  to  seiid  letters  from 
one  great  personage  to    another  open  as  our's 
-was.     I  said,    that  it  was   not  the   custom    in 
Europe;  but  that  the  princes  of  Western  India 
simply  inclosed  their  letters  to  one  another  in 


414  EMBASSY   TO  SI  AM 

a  silken  CDTelope,  and  that  in  our  oorrespond- 
enoe  with  liiem  we  conformed  to  this  practioe. 
He  said,  **  It  is  His  Majesty's   wish,  when  the 
Governor-general   writes    again,    that  the  letter 
may  be  sealed,  for  this  is  the  custom  of  Cochin 
China."    We  were  now  pointedly  ad^,  whether 
we  had  voluntarily  shown  the  Govemor-gene- 
ral's  letter  to  the  Governor  of  Saigun*  or  whe- 
Aer  it  had  been  demanded  of  us  ?      We  stated 
the   latter,   explaining   that    we    did  not    oom^ 
ply  until   assured  that  doing  so  was  conform^ 
able   to    the    customs    of    the    country.     The 
Mandarin  replied ;  ''  It  is  not  agreeable  to  the 
customs  of  the   country,  that  any  one  should 
inspect  letters  addressed  to  His  Majesty,  before 
tihey  reach  his  own  presence.      A  copy,   or  a 
duplicate,  would    have  been    enough    for    the 
Governor  of  Saigun."     These  observations  pro- 
bably arose  out  of  jealousy  of  the  Court  towards 
the  latter  personage.  By  the  concurrent.testimony 
of  every  person  with  whom  I  have  spoken  on 
the  subject,  this    Chief  is  considered  not   only 
as  the  firot  subject  in  the  kingdom  in  point  of 
rank  and  power,  but  the  most  distinguished  also 
for  his  firmness,   his  talents,  and  his  integrity. 
His   leaving  the   Court   was   regretted  by  the 
people    as    a  misfortune;    and    I    have    been 
assured,  tiiat  the  corruption  of  the  lower  Handle 
rins    has    known  no    bounds  since   they  have 
lost  the  restraint  imposed  upon  them  by  his 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  415 

vjgikuftce  and  severity.    His  Majesty  is  natttnlly . 
jealous  q£  bis  influence  and  popularity. 

The  Minbter,  after  these  obsenrations,  pro- 
ceeded to  inform  us,  that  certain  presents  had 
been  prepared,  by  order  of  his  Majesty,  for 
the  Governor-General,  and  some  for  the  Missioii, 
and  that  they  would  be  presented  to  us  to-mor- 
row moming  at  the  palace,  where  we  should  be 
received  in  rtate  hy  the  Minister  of  Ceremonies, 
who  would  be  in  attendance  for  the  purpose.  I 
had  full  time  to  deliberate  upon  the  sutgect  of 
these  intended  presents ;  and  had  resolved  io  de- 
cline accepting  those  for  the  Governor^eneidi, 
as  a  necessary  oc^nsequence  of  his  ExceSlency's 
presents  having  been  declined  on  the  part  of 
the  Cochin  Chinese  Court  It  was  at  the  saose 
time  necessary,  in  doing  so,  to  avoid,  as  &r  as 
possible,  giving  offence  to  the  pride  and  preten^ 
sions  of  the  Cochin  Chinese.  With  this  view 
it  was  stated,  that  presents  were  now  super* 
fluDus,  as  a  friendly  acquaintance  had  oom^ 
menced;  while  to  receive  them  would  be  contrai|r 
to  custom  and  to  our  instructions,  except  in  the 
e^ent  of  those  brought  by  us  being  accepted 
hy  the  Ejng.  A  direct  refusal  of  them  was  as 
far  as  possible  avoided,  ^nd  the  presents  for  the 
Miasioti  were  accepted  with  due  acknowledgments. 
!l3ie  Minister  answered,  that  the  presents  ten- 
deied  for  the  Governor-general  of  India  were 
mere  trifles,   not  given  for  their  value,  but  as 


416  EMBASSY    TO   8IAM 

tokens  of  his  Majesty's  friendship.  He  showed 
great  anxiety  that  the  presents  should  be  ac- 
cepted; but,  on  our  part,  persevering  in  our 
first  resolution,  he  at  last  waived  the  point ;  and 
it  was  agreed,  that  we  should  repair  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  to  the  hall  of  ceremonies  to 
receive  the  presents  for  the  Mission  only.  We 
hoped,  that  in  this  manner  a  question  respecting 
which  we  had  anticipated  considerable  difficulty, 
had  been  amicably  and  temperately  disposed  of. 

Drafts  of  the  different  papers  were  now  exhi- 
bited to  us.  The  first  of  these  was  the  letter  for 
the  Governor-general.  It  was  explained  by  our 
own  Chinese  interpreter ;  and  the  language  of  it 
appeared,  as  far  as  we  could  judge  through 
this  medium,  unexceptionable.  It  was  not 
a.  letter  direct  from  the  King,  but  from  the 
Minister,  by  command  of  his  Majesty.  It 
stated— ^that  a  letter  in  the  English  language, 
understood  by  nobody  at  Court,  but  translated 
by  our  interpreter,  had  been  received  from  the 
Governor-general  of  British  India — ^that  this 
letter  expressed  a  desire  that  a  commercial  in* 
tercourse  should  take  place  between  the  Cochin 
Chinese  and  the  English  ;  and  that  it  disclaimed 
all  desire  for  lands  or  establishments  in  Cochin 
China.  His  Majesty's  answer  to  this  was,  that 
the  wish  expressed  by  the  Governor-general  had 
given  him  satisfaction,  and  that  he  had  issued  the 
necessary  orders  for  the  admission  of  English 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  417 

ships  into  the  ports  of  his  kingdom.    The  letter 
then  proceeded  to  give  the  reasons  for  the  King's 
declining  to  receive  the  presents  of  the  Govemor- 
generaly  being  the  same  which  I  have  ah*eady  men- 
tioned,  and  concUided  with  the  list  of  the  pre.* 
sents   sent  to  his  Excellency  as  tokens  of  his 
friendship.      These  last  were  as  follow:  three 
pairs  of  elephdnt's  teeth ;  four  rhinoceros'  horns, 
set  in  gold  feet ;   chinamon  of  the  first  quality, 
three  catties ;  of  the  second  quality,  five ;  and  of 
a  third  quality,  ten;  agila  wood,  of  the  first 
quality,  five  catties ;  and  of  the  second,  ten  cat^. 
ties ;  and  three  piculs  of  sugar-candy.    These  are 
the  customary  presents  sent  to  foreign  princes  by 
the  Court  of  Cochin  China.      The  amount  de- 
termines the  rank  of  the  person  to  whom  they  are 
sent,  or  at  least  that  conceded  to  him  by  the 
etiquette  or  vanity  of  the  Cochin  Chinese.    The 
cinnamon  of  the  first  quality  here  mentioned,  I 
may   observe,   is  reserved   exclusively   for   His 
Majesty,  and  it  is  death  to  a  subject  to  trade  in 
it.    An  incredible  value  is  put  upon  this  commo- 
^ty,  viz,  twenty  dollars  the  tael,  or  three  hundred 
and  twenty  dollars  the  catty,  of  one  and  one-third 
pound  avoirdupois. 

The  subject  of  commerce  was  then  intro- 
duced. The  Minister  observed,  that  His  Majesty 
had  granted  permission  to  English  ships  to  visit 
three  ports  of  the  kingdom  only,  viz.  Sai* 
gun,  Han  or  Toiinuti,  with  Faifp«  and  tlie 
VOL.  I.  2  E 


418  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

capital.  With  regard  to  Tooquin,  he  saidU  the 
river  was  too  small  for  the  navigation  of  English 
ships.  We  answered,  that  in  former  times  the 
English,  and  other  Emropean  nations,  had  ccm- 
ducted  a  considerable  commerce  with  Toiiquin, 
and  that  then  the  river  had  water  Plough  for 
ships  of  large  burden.  The  Minister  replied,  that 
the  King  was  resolved  not  to  permit  foreign  trade, 
at  present,  to  Tonquin,  as  that  country  was  a 
recent  conquest,  and  for  which  reason  it  was  not 
deemed  convenient  to  encourage  the  resort  of 
strangers  to  it.  I  was  disappointed  at  this  com- 
munication, after  the  assurance  which  had  been 
made  on  the  subject ;  but  I  saw,  from  the  tone  in 
which  it  was  made,  that  it  was  conclusive,  and 
that  remonstrance  would  be  useless,  and  might 
excite  jealousy  and  suspicion.  I  therefore  .ac- 
quiesced at  once  in  the  decision;  and  only  ex- 
pressed a  hope,  that  when  we  became  bettar  ac- 
quainted, the  port  of  Tonquin  wopld  be  thrown 
open  to  us  with  the  same  liberality  as  the  rest. 

Our  Chinese  interpreter,  after  this,  translated 
the  tariff  and  regulations  at  the  three  different 
ports  at  which  we  were  to  be  licensed  to  trade. 
They  were  what  had  been  promised,  and  without 
variation  the  same  as  those  conceded  to  the  Chi- 
nese. 

After  this  conversation,  the  arrangements  for 
our  journey  were  made.  We  were  allowed  any 
number  of  porters  and  carries  that  we  thought 


AN1>  COCHIN   CHINA.  419 

proper  to  name,  and  th^  Minister  offered  us  his 
own  berge  to  convey  us  the  first  stage,  which  is 
by  water.  A  very  handsome  entertainment  in 
the  Cochin  Chinese  manner  concluded,  as  we  hoped 
and  believed,  the  whole  affair,  and  we  should 
have  been  glad  to  have  taken  leave.  As  soon  as 
it  waa  over,  however,  one  of  the  Mandarins,  the 
Chief  of  Touran,  our  earliest  acquaintance,  stood 
up  and  said,  that  it  seemed  extraordinary  that 
because  we  had  brought  certain  presents  from  the 
Governor-general  of  Bengal,  and  that  these  pre- 
sents had  been  declined,  we  should  dream,  in  re- 
turn, of  declining  the  gifts  of  so  great  a  King 
as  His  Majesty  of  Cochin  China.  This  was 
the  very  point  the  discussion  of  which  we  were 
so  anxious  to  avoid.  I  felt  much  annoyed  that 
the  topic  should  now  be  renewed,  after  it  had 
to  all  appearance  been  so  well  disposed  of — 
even  the  Minister  himself  seeming  to  be  entirely 
satisfied  with  the  arrangement.  We  therefore 
requested,  that  as  the  matter  had  been  finally 
settled,  no  farther  discussion  shovQd  take  place 
concerning  it.  Several  of  the  inferior  Mandarins, 
however,  agreed  in  the  opinion  expressed  by  the 
Chief  of  Touran ;  and  the  first  determination  of 
the  Minister  was  evidently  shaken ;  and  he  ac- 
<x>rdingly  mformed  us,  that  the  letters  and  papers 
which  we  saw  sealed  and  placed  in  a  casket  upon 
the  table  before  us,  ready  to  be  handed  over,  could 
not  be  delivered,  as  the  presents  were  mentioned 

2  £  2 


420  EMBASSY   TO   8XA5r  ~ 

in  the  letter,  and  it  would  be  neoesttry  to  take 
the  farther  orders  of  His  Majesty  on  the  subject 
The  Minister,  and  other  Mandarins,  with  the  two 
French  gentlemen,  repaired  immediately  to  the 
palace,  to  report  what  had  taken  place  to  the 
King,  and  we  returned  to  our  own  residence, 
which  we  reached  about  five  in  the  evening.  The 
Minister  displayed  great  good-humour  and  afia- 
bility  during  the  whole  conference.  He  spoke 
familiarly  of  his  own  private  affairs.  Four  or 
five  of  his  children  stood  beside  him ;  and  this 
led  him  to  inform  us,  that  he  had  in  all  fifty-four, 
thirty-six  of  whom  were  living  in  his  house. 
During  the  entertainment  he  sat  down  to  table 
with  us,  but  did  not  eat.  Not  so  the  four  infe- 
rior Mandarins,  who  did  great  justice  to  the  feast 
The  Cochin  Chinese,  like  the  Chinese  and  Ja- 
panese, eat  with  chop-sticks,  which,  in  point  of 
delicacy,  is  not  a  whit  better  than  the  naked 
hand  of  other  Asiatics.  The  bowl,  in  wliich  the 
viands  are  contained,  is  applied  to  the  very  mouth, 
and  the  food  dexterously  tossed  in,  in  immense 
quantities,  and  with  a  kind  of  beggarly  scramble, 
as  if  the  guest  was  fearful  that  any  part  of  it 
should  be  snatched  from  him. 

Oct.  14. — For  the  last  three  days  it  rained  al- 
most incessantly.  I  never  knew  rain  more  heavy 
or  more  continual  The  river  overflowed  its  banks 
and  completely  inundated  the  whole  town.  In 
the  street  before  our  door  there  were  three  and 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  421 

a  half  feet  water,  and  boats  were  seen  passing 
to  and  fro  in  it,  as  if  it  had  been  a  regular  canaL 
AH  the  houses,  with  the  exception  of  our  own, 
which  was  raised  upon  a  high  terrace,  were  com* 
pletdy  flooded;  and  the  inhabitants  were  com- 
pelled, for  the  security  of  their  property,  to  deposit 
it  in  boats  at  their  doors.  For  ourselves,  we  were 
driven  into  the  interior  and  higher  parts  of  our 
dwelling  for  shelter,  there  being  at  least  four  feet 
water  in  the  low  court-yard  in  front,  and  even 
the  verandahs  of  the  house  being  overflown.  At 
the  same  time  there  was  a  violent  gale  of  wind 
from  the  N.E.,  so  that  our  situation  was  extremely 
uncomfortable.  For  some  days,  indeed,  we  were 
completely  insulated,  and  had  no  communication 
with  the  Government. 

The  Mandarin  of  Touran,  Ong-hep,  called  upon 
us  in  the  morning,  paying  his  visit  in  his  barge, 
and  landing  at  tiie  street-door.  He  spoke  much 
on  the  subject  of  our  rejection  of  the  King's  pre- 
sents, and  sought  to  excuse  himself  for  the  im- 
pediment thrown  in  the  way  of  the  negociation, 
by  his  unseasonable  interference  at  the  last  con-, 
ferenoe.  While  he  was  with  us,  a  message  came 
from  the  Minister,  to  inquire  how  we  were  after 
the  inundation,  and  to  inform  us,  that  as  soon 
as  the  waters  had  subsided,  our  business  should 
be  proceeded  in. 

Oct.  15. — The  two  Mandarins,  assistants  of  the 
Minister,  called  upon  us  this  forenoon  unexpect^ 


422  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

edly,  and  without  giving  us  any  notice  of  their 
visit.     They  came,  they  said,  by  order  of  the 
Minister,  to  inform  us,  that  as  we  wotdd  not 
accept  of  the  King's  presents  for  the  Governor- 
general,   His   Majesty  had    thought    proper    to 
decline  sending  any  answer  to  His  Excellency's 
letter,  but  that  the  commercial  document  was 
ready  to  be  delivered.    To  this  1  answered,  that 
this  depended  solely  upon  His  Majesty's  plea* 
sure; — ^that  if  the  letter  was  given,  we  would 
take  charge  of  it ;  and  that  if  it  was  not  given, 
we  should  make  a  faithful  report  of  this,  as  of 
every    other    circumstance  connected    with  the 
Mission,   to   the  Governor-general  of  India  on 
our  return.     They  were  sensibly  disappdinted  at 
this  reply ;  and  after  consulting  with  each  other 
for  some  time,  they  put  the  question  pointedly, 
whether  we  would  be  glad  to  have  the  letter  or 
not.     We  answered,  that  we  should  he  happy 
to  take  charge  of  any  letter  from  the  Eang,  as 
a  matter  of  course.     They  then  finally  explained 
that  if  we  would  accept  of  His  Majesty's  pre^. 
sents  for  the  Governor-general,  the  letter  would 
be  furnished ;  but  if  this  form,  which  was  accord* 
ing  to  the  custom  of  the  Court  of  Cochin  China, 
was  not  complied  with,  no  written  answer  could 
be  given.     In  reply  to  this,  we  stated  distinctly 
in  a  few  words,  that  we  had  delivered  oiur  deli- 
berate opinion  upon  this  ^ubjett  on  Saturday  to 
the  Minister,  and  had  nothing  new  to  say  now. 


ANB  COCHIN   CHINA.  423 

We  explained,  that  our  principal  business  in 
coming  here  was  to  settle  a  friendly  Commercial 
relation  between  the  two  countries,  and  that  this 
being  adjusted,  we  were  perfectly  satisfied.  On 
hearing  this,  the  Mandarins  proceeded  to  deliver 
the  commercial  document.  They  finally  asked 
when  we  wished  to  take  our  departure  for  Touraiu 
We  fixed  on  the  17th.  They  begged  to  know 
whether  we  would  call  to  take  leave  of  the  Mi- 
nister. We  agreed  to  do  so  to-morrow,  and  they 
departed. 

Oct.  16. — We  called  on  the  Minister  to-day, 
according  to  promise.     Neither  the  French  gen- 
tlemen nor  any  Cochin  Chinese  of  rank,  were  pre^ 
sent.     Although  the  visit  purported  to  be  one  of 
mere  ceremony  and  civility,  yet  the  Minister  im- 
mediately entered  upon  business.     He  stated,  that 
in  consequence  of  our  declining  to  take  the  King's 
presents  for  the  Govanor-general  of  India,  his 
Majesty  could  not  answer  the  Governor's  letter ; 
as^  according  to  immemorial  usage,  such  presents 
as  were  named  in  it,  must  indispensably  accom- 
pany it.     He  then  proceeded  to  explain,  that  the 
King  had  declined  receiving  the  Govemor-gejie- 
ral*s  presents  only  because  the  English    had   as 
yet  gained  no  benefit  by  their  intercourse ;  but 
that  as  soon  as  we  had,  he  would  accept  of  any 
presents  which  should  be  offered.     We  answered 
that  we  did  not  complain  of  the  King's  declining 
the  Governor-general's  presents,  but  that  among 


424  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

US  it  was  custoQaary  not  to  receive  presents  where 
those  tendered  by  ourselves  were  declined*  He 
said,  if  we  would  accept  of  the  presents,  they 
should  be  presented  in  the  palace,  with  all  due 
form ;  and  he  stated,  as  an  inducement  to  comply, 
that  His  Majesty  would  be  present  on  the  occa- 
sion in  person.  To  this  it  was  replied,  that  if 
His  Majesty  desired  to  send  the  presents  to  the 
<5ovemor-general,  we  would  with  pleasure  convey 
them  to  Bengal,  without,  however,  pledging  our- 
selves to  their  being  accepted.  The  Minister  de- 
dined  ^ving  the  presents  on  these  terms. 

He  next  adverted  to  our  commerce ;  and  said^, 
that  he  hoped  that  every  thing  connected  with 
this  subject  was  settled  to  our  satisfaction.  He 
begged  to  assure  us,  that  English  ships  visiting 
the  ports  of  Cochin  China  would  meet  with  every 
asristance  that  he  could  personally  render  them; 
and  requested  that  his  respects  might  be  offered 
to  the  British  Governor-general  with  this  mes- 
sage. We  now  told  him  of  our  anxiety  to  leave 
HuJ  "to-morrow.  He  answered,  that  the  boat  in- 
tended  to  convey  us  the  first  day's  journey  would 
be  ready  at  an  early  hour,  with  four  palanquins  for 
the  remainder  of  the  journey. 

During  our  interview,  the  permission  to  visit 
Faifo  was  confirmed;  and  we  had  also  leave  to 
visit  the  marble  rocks  or  other  curiosities  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Bay  of  Touran.  The  Minister 
paid  us  polite  attention  throughout^  and  entered 


AND  COCHIK   CHINA.  425 

into  familiar  conversation  after  our  business  was 
terminated.  He  told  us  with  some  exultation^ 
that  be  had  served  three  Kings  of  Cochin  China. 
He  was  a  great  favourite  of  his  late  Majesty^  whom 
he  accompanied  in  his  .flight  to  Siam,  through* 
out  the  desert  islands  on  the  eastern « coast  of  the 
Gulf  of  that  name,  and,  in  short,  through  all  his 
wars  and  peregrinations.  With  the  present  King^ 
although  permitted  to  retain  office,  he  is  not  a  £a« 
vourite ;  and  this  accounts  readily  enough  for  the 
junior  Mandarins  having  taken  it  upon  themselves 
to  oppose  his  opinion,  even  in  our  presence,  in 
the  conference  which  took  place  on  the  ISthi 
He  took  leave  of  us  with  great  kindness,  and 
wished  us  an  agreeable  and  prosperous  voyage. 
*  During  our  visit,  the  females  of  the  Minister's 
family,  as  they  had  also  done  upon  the  two  for^ 
mer  occasions,  crowded  to  the  skreen,  which  was 
in  front  of  us  and  behind  the  Chief,  to  gratify 
their  curiosity.  Here  they  laughed,  and  nodded, 
and  beckoned  in  such  a  manner,  as  to  give  us 
but  a  very  indifferent  opmion  of  Cochin  Chinese 
female  modesty  in  high  life!  All  whom  we  saw 
were  young,  and  two  or  three  of  them  fsur  and 
pretty,  after  the  manner  of  Cochin  China  beauties. 
Another  incident,  of  which  we  were  eye-wit- 
nesses, deserves  to.be  mentioned,  as  highly  illus- 
trative of  Cochin  Chinese  manners  and  Cochin 
Chinese  government.  While  we  were  entering 
the  court-yard  of  the  Minister's  house,  we  saw  a 


426  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

company  of  comedians,  who  hadbeoi  exhibiting, 
as  upon  the  first  occasion.  It  seems  that  thej 
were  not  perfect  in  their  parts,  or  at  least  that 
their  performance  did  not  satisfy  the  taste  of  the 
great  man.  They  were  accordingly  undergoing, 
the  universal  panacea  for  all  breaches  of  moral, 
social,  and  political  obligation, — for  all  errors  of 
mnission  or  commission ;  that  is  to  say— the  bam* 
boo.  The  first  object  that  caught  our  attention 
was  the  hero  of  the  piece  lying  prone  on  the 
ground,  and  receiving  punishment  in  his  full 
dramatic  costume.  The  inferior  characters,  in 
due  course,  received  their  share  a}so,  as  we  after* 
wards  ascertained  from  hearing  their  cries,  while 
we  sat  with  the  Minister.  This  coeference  vir- 
tually terminated  the  diplomatic  intercourse  of 
the  Mission  with  the  Codiin  Chinese  Court* 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  427 


CHAPTER  XL 

Departure  from  Hue. — Journey  by  land  to  Touran,  and  de- 
scription of  the  Route. — Cochin  Chinese  Palanqoin-bearers. 
— ^Arrival  at  Touiran.— Presents  for  the  Mission  recei^ed.-^ 

Worship  of  Buddha. — Visit  to  the  town  of  Faifo Marble 

rocks  and  grottos. — Account  of  the  town  of  Faifo. — Temples 
of  Buddha. — Account  of  the  country  between  Touran  and 
Faifo* — ^TyphoMi. — Departure  from  Touran  for  Singapore. 
— Description  of  Touran.— Land-birds  met  at  Sea. — Anambaa 
Islands. — Arrival  at  Singapore. 

Oct  17.— Every  thing  having  been  arranged 
for  our  journey,  we  left  Hu6  this  morning  at 
eight  o*clock.  The  first  part  of  our  route  was  per- 
formed by  water,  and  the  Mandarin  who  had  con- 
ducted  us  from  Touran  accompanied  us  with  an 
e8C(»*t  of  soldiers.  Our  whole  party  Occupied  an 
aocommodation-boat  and  two  galleys:  After  as- 
cending the  river  until  we  were  opposite  the 
citadd  and  palace,  we  sailed  into  a  canal  in  a 
south-easterly  direction.  The  appearance  of  the 
country  here  was  strikingly  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque, and  had  more  of  the  variety  and  in-* 
terest  of  European  landscape  than  of  tropical  see- 


488  .EMBASSY  TO   SIAM  ^ 

nery.  After  proceeding  about  a  mile  on  this 
canal,  we  saw  two  or  three  excellent  houses,  sur- 
rounded by  gardens  and  walls.  The  houses  re- 
sembled large  and  spacious  Indian  bungalows. 
These  habitations,  were  occupied  by  some  ci  the 
princesses  of  the  late  King's  family.  Here  the 
low  hills,  which  approached  dose  to  the  river, 
were  naked  of  wood,  with  the  exception  of  one, 
which  exhibited  the  unusual  spectacle,  in  a  tro- 
pical country,  of  a  plantation  of  timber-trees.  A 
little  beyond  the  residence  of  the  princesses  now 
mentioned,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  canal^ 
was  seen  the  manufactory  of  bricks,  from  which 
the  fort  and  other  public  works  were  supplied. 
This  extended,  I  believe,  for  not  less  than  a  mile 
and  a  half  along  the  canal.  We  had  the  curiosity 
to  count  the  number  of  kilns,  and  found  them  to 
amount  to  255 ! 

It  took  us  four  hours  to  pass  through  the 
canal,  and,  at  the  rate  we  were  going,  I  suppose 
it  to  be  about  fourteen  miles  in  extent.  This 
was  the  work  of  the  late  King,  now  indeed 
highly  useful  to  the  agriculture  and  communi- 
cation of  the  country;  but  effected,  we  were 
told,  at  a  vast  expense  of  labour  and  of  life* 
During  the  first  five  miles,  the  canal  is  about 
twenty  yards  broad,  and  raised  above  the  level 
of  the  surrounding  country :  it  has-  a  neat  foot- 
path on  each  side,  and,  at  convenient  intervals, 
flood-gates  for  inundating  at  pleasure  the  adja« 


▲KI>  COCHIN  CHINA.  499 

cent  rice-lands.  The  rest  of  the  work  is  wide, 
iir^ralar,  on  a  level  with  the  marsh  through 
which  it  passes,  and  destitute  of  foot-paths.  The 
whole  of  the  lands  through  which  the  canal 
passes^  are  rice-grounds.  After  the  recent  heavy 
falls  of  rain,  these  were  so  completely  inundated, 
that  they  had  mcxie  the  appearance  of  a  vast  lake, 
than  of  a  country  under  culture.  Boats  were 
passing  and  repassing  over  the  fields,  and  some 
persons  even  engaged  in  fishing  where  crops  of 
grain  would  he  reaped  in  a  few  months. 

The  canal  terminates  hy  a  narrow  sluice,  a  great 
internal  lake,  or,  more  correctly,  in  a  wide  arm  of 
the  sea,  with  a  very  narrow  neck.  Either  owing 
to  the  freshes,  or  the  canal  being  elevated  above 
the  lake,  there  was  a  considerable  fall  and  rush 
of  water  at  the  sluice,  which  made  the  passage 
a  matter  of  some  difficulty — and  even  danger, 
if  a  number  of  persons  on  each  side,  armed  with 
long  poles,  had  not  directed  the  boats  as  tiiey 
passed  through.  It  took  us  two  hours,  with 
smooth  water,  to  row  across  the  arm  of  the  sea 
just  referred  to,  the  breadth  of  which  appeared 
to  be  about  seven  miles.  The  entrance  into  this 
spacious  bay  from  the  sea  is  to  the  north-east, 
and,  as  already  said,  very  narrow.  We  had  no- 
ticed it  as  we  proceeded  by  sea  to  Hu6,  but  had 
then  no  conception  of  the  extent  of  the  sheet  of 
water  into  which  it  led.  The  deptli  of  this  bay 
is  no  more  than  two  fathoms  throughout,  and 


430  EMBASSY   TO  8IAM 

therefore,  as  a  place  of  shelter  it  is  fitted  only 
for  small  vessels.  In  the  language  of  the  eoun* 
try  it  is  called  the  bay  of  Mukgot. 

At  four  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  the  end 
of  the  stage,  the  village  of  Kao-hai.  This  is  a 
large  hamlet,  situated  in  a  fertile  valley,  between 
the  foot  of  a  chain  of  hills  and  the  bay,  and  to 
the  southern  side  of  the  latter.  The  valley  is 
well  cultivated,  and,  we  were  told,  contains  a 
thousand  families.  A  pretty  rivulet  winds  through 
it,  which  was  full  of  boats.  From  the  favour- 
ableness of  its  situation,  this  valley  gives  two 
crops  of  rice  a-year :  one  had  just  been  reaped, 
and  preparation  was  making  for  sowing.the  other- 
We  had  an  excellent  house  to  reside  in,  and 
every  convenience  that  travellers  in  our  situation 
had  a  right  to  expect.  Our  place  of  acccHnmo- 
dation  was  a  sort  of  caravansera  resembling  others 
of  the  same  description,  found  regularly  at  in- 
teryals  of  eight  or  ten  miles,  aU  the  way  from 
Saigun  to  the  extreme  limit  of  Tonquin,  where 
it  borders  on  China*  It  was  well  raised  upon 
a  terrace,  and  was  a  hundred  feet  long,  and  half 
as  broad.  It  consisted  of  one  great  hall,  with 
a  double  row  of  pillars,  having  an  elevated  place 
at  <xie  end  for  the  King's  throne,  and  a  large 
chamber  at  the  other  end  for  the  security  of  pro- 
perty.    It  was  substantially  and  exoeUently  built 

Oct.  18.— We  left  Kao-hai  at  six  o'clock  this 
morning,  and  reached  the  foot  of  the  first  range 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  491 

of  hiUs  in  about  an  hour.  After  crossing 
this,  which  is  narrow,  and  not  above  three  hun- 
dred feet  high,  we  entered  an  extensive  valley. 
Travelling  through  this,  until  half-past  eight 
o'clock,  we  halted  at  Nuk-mang,  ^^the  place  of 
sweet  water,**  a  remarkably  pretty  and  neat  village. 
We  breakfasted  here,  and  resumed  our  journey  at 
half-past  eleven.  Still  traversing  low  ground  for 
three  quarters  of  an  hour,  we  reached  a  second 
range  of  hills,  of  nearly  the  same  elevation  as 
the  first :  this  terminated  the  valley,  which  ap- 
pears to  be  about  nine  miles  broad.  It  is,  gene- 
rally speaking,  sandy,  sterile,  and  in  a  state 
of  nature ;  but  towards  the  hills,  on  both  sides, 
the  soil  improves  and  is  well  cultivated.  Here 
we  saw  reapers  in  the  fields ;  among  them  were 
many  women.  They  used  a  sickle,  as  in  Europe ; 
and  their  work  was  performed  with  something 
Uke  the  energy  and  vigour  of  European  labour. 
As  soon  as  we  had  reached  the  top  of  this  second 
range  of  lulls,  a  beautiful  and  unexpected  view 
was  presented  to  us.  On  one  side  was  the  vaJU 
ley  which  we  had  just  quitted ;  on  another,  the 
open  sea ;  on  a  third,  high  ranges  of  wooded  moun- 
tains; and  before  us,  what  we  took  at  the  time 
for  a  great  internal  lake,  surrounded  every  where 
by  steep  and  wooded  bills.  This  extensive  piece 
of  water  proved,  however,  to  be  another  arm  of 
the  sea.  We  skirted  it  along  its  eastern  shore» 
passing  a  great  deal  of  forest,  but  our  journey 


43S  EMBAS8T  TO  SIAM 

being  over  a  most  excellent  and  well-finished  road» 
In  this  part  of  our  route  in  particular^  and  gene- 
rally indeed  throughout  the  whole  of  it,  we  ob- 
served along  the  road  many  monuments  <^  Cochin 
Chinese  superstition,  in  the  form  of  little  temples, 
at  which  votive  ofierings  were  presented  as  well 
as  occasionally  on  the  pinnacles  of  rocks.     These 
offerings  consisted  usually  of  little  bits  of  gilded 
paper  and  similar  trifles,  and  were  most  usual  in 
wild  and  solitary  spots,  considered  by  the  Cochin 
Chinese  to  be  the  natural  dwellings  of  evil  spirits. 
At  one  spot  which  we  passed,  on  the  summit  of 
a  hill,  and  in  the  depth  of  the  forest,  there  was 
erected  a  post,  having  on  it  n  board,  on  which 
was  represented  a  hideous  human  face  with  an 
inscription  underneath.    Our  native  companiims 
informed  us  that  the  writing  was  a  sacred  text, 
and  that  it  and  the  ugly  face  were  intended  to 
fiighten  away  an  evil  spirit  of  peculiar  malignity 
which  haunted  this  particular  spot.    They  said» 
that  when  people  travelled  in  numbers,  or  in  fine 
weather,  the  evil  genius  in  question  was  not  to 
be  apprehended ;  but  that  he  took  advantage  of 
solitary  travellers,  especially  of  women,  and  that 
he  was  most  mischievous  in  storms  and  gkx»ny 
weather ! 

At  two  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  Hai-mung,  the 
end  of  oiur  stage.  This  was  a  considerable  vil- 
lage on  the  sea-side,  just  at  the  entrance  of  the 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  *3S 

bay  already  mentioned,  and  which,  in  the  native 
^BUguage^  is  called  Vungdam,  or  the  harbour  of 
Dam.  It  appeared  to  be  about  five  miles  across, 
in  its  broadest  part,  and  seven  or  eight  long. 
The  depth  of  water  in  the  middle  is  ten  Cochin 
Chinese  cubits,  or  almost  fourteen  feet  English, 
The  entrance  is  extremely  narrow,  I  should  think 
not  above  one  hundred  and  twenty  yards,  and 
here  there  is  only  a  depth  of  from  seven  to  eight 
and  a  half  feet.  For  a  mile  inland,  the  bay  con- 
sists of  a  narrow*  gut  or  channel,  which  expands 
all  at  once  to  the  breadth  which  I  have  just 
stated.  A  tremendous  surge  rolls  in  upon  the 
beach  or  rocks  towards  the  entrance  of  the  bay 
on  both  sides,  the  narrow  diannel  alone  being 
free  from  danger. 

In  the  forests  through  which  we  passed  in  the 
course  of  this  day's  journey,  we  were  informed 
that  tigers  and  elephants  were  numerous.  Of  wild 
poultT}^  (Phasianus  GaUus)  we  saw  several  flocks. 
One  of  these,  not  far  from  a  village,  appeared 
60  little  shy  that  we  at  first  imagined  it  con-* 
sisted  of  domestic  fowls,  and  hesitated  to  fire. 
In  the  winter,  or  cold  season,  innumerable  flocks 
of  ducks  and  other  water-fowl  are  described  a^ 
visiting  Cochin  China.  These  had  not  yet  ar- 
rived, but  we  observed  preparations  making  for 
insnaring  them.  These  consisted  of  a  number 
of  artificial  birds,  intended  for  decoys.     They 

VOL.  I.  2  F 


4S4  EMBASSY   TO  8IAH 

were  so  well  imitated,  that  one  of  our  party 
fired  twice  among  a  flock  of  them,  mistaking 
them  for  real  birds. 

This  day's  journey  was  performed  in  palan* 
quins,  of  the  fashion  of  the  tx>untry.  These  ve- 
hicles consist  of  a  net,.hun|^  from  a  single  pole, 
and  having  a  pent  roof  of  very  light  materials. 
On  each  side,  a^  well  as  behind  and  in  front; 
there  are  curtains  of  wax  cloth.  The  weight  of 
a  good  one  is  about  thirty  catties,  or  forty  ponnds^ 
and  of  a  small*  one, '  not  more  than  half  that 
amount.  Two  men,  and  no  more,  carry  these 
vehicles,  and  four  is  the  greatest  number  of 
bearers  employed  for  persons  of  any  weigfat,  in- 
cluding the  relief.  In  this  employment,  ti» 
Cochin  Chinese  exhibit  a  degree,  of  strength, 
dexterity,  and  activity,  ctf  which  I  hadnofbe- 
lieved  them  capable.  They  tiavd  at  a  quick  pao^ 
and  change  the  palanquin  from  shouldet'to  'shoul- 
der, or  relieve  «eacli  other  without  even  halting. 
Each  of  our  set's  of  bearers  carried  us  at  least  nine 
or  ten  miles.  In  every  respect,  I  conceive  them 
superior  to  Indian  palanquin-bearers.  They  per^ 
form  the  same  work,  at  least  equally  well,  with 
less  than  one  half  the  numbers  employed  in  Hin- 
dustan. This  superiority  is,  in  a  good  nieasnre, 
owing  to  the  greater  lightness  of  the  vehicle 
employed;  but,  I  have  no  doubt,  in  some:^* 
gree,  also,  to  the  superior  physical  straigth  of 
the  Cochin  Chinese  over,  the  natives  of  Western 


i  I 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  485 

India.  We  found  the  Cochin  Chinese  palanquin 
th^  most  comfortable  and  least  fatiguing  vehicle 
in  which  we  had  ever  travelled. 

Oct  19. — We  commenced  our  journey  this 
morning  at  half  past  five,  by  crossing  the  narrow 
channel  which  forms  the  entrance  of  the  bay. 
Immediately  before  us  was  the  high  range  of 
mountains,  which  divides  the  bay  of  Vung-dam 
from  that  of  Han  or  Touran.  We  immediately 
began  to  ascend,  and  when  we  had  got  to  the 
devation  of  four  or  five  hundred  feet,  had  a 
beautiful  and  extensive  prospect  of  the  bay  which 
we  had  just  left— of  the  open  sea^  and  even  of 
a  portion  of  the  bay  of  Nuk-got,  which  we  had 
crossed  in  the  first  day's  journey.  Here  was  a 
temple  to  the  Spirit  of  the  Mountain,  and  on  the 
altar  some  incense  still  burning,  left  by  travellers 
who  had  gone  on  before  us.  Our  course  was  now 
along  the  sea,  but  at  a  considerable  elevation  ov«v 
it,  while  it  was  generally  concealed  from  view 
by  the  thickness  of  the  forest.  The  scenery  now, 
and  for  the  rest  of  the  day,  was  bold  and  roman* 
tic  The  forest  was  as  tall  and  luxuriant  as  dose 
to  the  Equator  itself,  and  the  sound  of  brooks  and 
waterfalls  was  perpetually  murmuring  in  our  ears- 
Two  or  three  waterfalls  were  visible  at  a  distance, 
one  of  which  appeared  to  have  a  fall  of  about 
two  hundred  feet.  Its  white  foam  'made  a  fine 
contrast  with  the  uniform  verdure  of  the  sur- 
rounding forest.    The  road  was  frequently  very 

S  F  2 


436  EMBiLSSY   TO   SIAM 

steep.  All  that  labour  could  do  to  make  it  good, 
had  indeed  been  tried,  but  this  was  not  much 
among  the  vast  masses  of  granite  of  which  the 
mountain  consisted,  and  where  there  was  scarcely 
an  inch  of  soil,  with  which  to  form  an  even 
surface.  Every  step  we  took  was  from  one  block 
of  granite  to  another,  both  in  ascending  and 
descending.  The  dearth  of  human  inhabitants 
was  ill  made  up  by  numerous  herds  of  moA- 
keys.  We  saw  no  less  thati  five  herds  of  thescf 
animals  while  we  were  passing  the  mountain; 
These  were  all  of  the  same  species  which  we  had 
seen  at  the  bay  of  Touran,  the  Douc  (or  Simia 
nemorUj,  in  colour  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the 
Ape  tribe.  At  the  elevation,  as  we  conjectured, 
of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet,  we  observed  for 
the  first  time  the  tea  plant  cultivated.  The  trees 
seemed  to  be  little  attended  to, — were  at  least 
twelve  feet  high,  and  the  leaves  appeared  large 
and  coarse.  At  half  past  eight  o'clock,  we  reach- 
^  the  highest  part  of  the  mountain.  The  ther- 
mometer, which  on  the  plain  was  the  day  be- 
fore,  at  the  same  hour  83%  here  sunk  to  76%  ond 
the  barometer  showed  that  our  elevation  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  was  about  1600  feet.  The 
high  road,  however,  lay  over  a  comparatively  low 
part  of  the  range,  some  peaks  of  which  appear- 
ed to  be  at  least  4000  feet  high.  Near  the  high- 
est spot  to  which  we  ascended,  wais  a  neat  vil- 
lage, with  the  advantage  of  a  good  market,  and 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  487 

of,  what  an  European  at  least  would  consider^ 
a  fine  climate.  In  the  shops  refreshments,  con^ 
sisting  of  tea,  rice,  and  other  articles,  were  ready 
laid  out  for  travellers,  of  which  we  saw  a  good 
number  in  the  course  of  this  day's  and  yester- 
day's journey.  These  persons,  among  whom  were- 
women  and  children,  travelled  unarmed,  and  with- 
out guards,  and  apparently  without  apprehen- 
sion. This,  at  least,  was  a  favourable  sign  of  the 
vigilance  and  energy  of  the  Government. 

As  soon  as  we  had  reached  the  summit  of  the 
hill,  we  enjoyed  a  grand  and  extensive  prospect, 
which  exhibited  at  one  view  the  bay  and  penin- 
sula of  Touran,  the  bay  of  Faifo,  and  the  mar- 
ble rocks  which  lie  between  them.  The  rest  of 
our  route  was  a  rapid  and  not  very  easy  descent 
to  the  western  shore  of  the  bay  of  Touran. 
This  occupied  an  hour  and  a  half.  At  ten  o'clock 
we  reached  the  little  cove  which  I  had  visited 
on  the  28d  of  September.  Here  we  breakfasted, 
and  embarking  at  twelve  o'dock,  after  a  beating 
passage  against  a  strong  sea-breeze,  reached  the 
ship  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  had 
the  happiness  to  join  our  friends  and  to  find  them 
all  well. 

The  geological  formation  of  the  country  which 
we  passed  in  this  journey  is  entirely  primitive. 
The  extremity  of  a  small  ridge  of  hills,  which 
terminates  at  the  side  of  the  river  opposite  the 
palace,  we  found  upon  examination  to  be  quartz 


488  EAIBASSY   TO  SIAM 

rock.  Throughout  the  rest  of  our  journey  gra- 
nite, ,with  xAscimonitl  beds  of  hom«.blende  rock, 
were.tbe  only  formations  which  occurred.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  capital  there  seems  to  be  more 
variety,  for  we  found  besides  quartz  and  granite, 
specimens  of  mountain  lime-stone,  which  we  woe 
tdd  had  been  brought  from  a  distance  of  no  more 
than  ten  or  twelve  miles. 

Oct.  20. —  Early  this  morning  the  military 
Mandarin  of  Touran  came  on  board  to  congra- 
tulate us  upon  our  return,  and  to  inform  us  that 
the  presents  from  the  King  for  the  of&cers  of  the 
Mission  were  ready  to  be  delivered,  and  that  it 
would  be  necessary  for  us  to  go  on  shore  %0: 
receive  them.  .  We  agreed  to  do  so,  and  landed 
at  ten  o'clock.  We  were  formally  received  by 
the  two  Mandarins  of  the  place,  and  by  one  of 
the  assistants  of  the  first  Minister,  who  had  come 
down  from  the  capital  for  the  express  purpose  of 
delivering  the  presents.  The  presents  for  the 
Envoy  consisted  of  a  pair  of  elephants  teeth, 
the  horn. of  a  rhinoceros,  five  catties  of  cinna- 
mon of  the  second  quality,  and  five  of  the  third 
quality.  .We  ware  perfectly  satisfied  at  being 
told  that  all  was  right ;  but  the  Mandarins  in- 
sisted upon  our  opening  every  box  separately, 
and  examining  the  articles  one  by  one.  The 
presents  of  provisions  consisted  of  ten  bullocks, 
ten  goats,  ten  hogs,  one  hundred  ducks,  one  hun- 
dred fowls,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  mea- 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  489 

sures  of  rioe^  amounting  to  about  eight  thousisnd 
pounds.  The  Mandarins,  by  way  of  demonstrat- 
ing to  us  that  there  was  no  foul  play,  would 
have  us  to  examine  these  articles  also  in  detail; 
but  this  we  positively  declined.  There  is  a  pal- 
tryness  and  w^mt  of  delicacy,  or  ev^en  decorum,  in 
the  conduct  of  these  people,  in  matters  of  this 
nature,  which  is  quite  surprising.  We  presented 
the  assistant  of  the  Minister  with  ia  piece  of  broad 
cloth  and  some  British  cottons.  He  had  been 
little  accustomed  to  a  gift  of  this  mf^itiide,  and 
received  it  thankfully,  but  wias  very  anxious  that 
the  circumstance  should  be  kept  stricftly  secret. 

Oct.  ai. — ^A  party  from  the  ship  ascended 
Hus  mdming  the  hill  opposite  to  the  anchoring- 
place.  The  whole  peninsula  of  Touran  is  one 
long  mountainous  range  of  granite,  the  most  ele- 
vated parts  of  which  are  about  two  thousand  feet 
in .  height.  On  the  brow  of  the  hill,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  up,  we  found  a  little  temple  of 
Buddha,  the  exterior  of  which  was  little  better 
in  appearance  than  a  commcm  hut.  It  contain- 
ed a  sitting  image  of  the  god,  and  an  erect  one 
of  one  of  his  disciples.  These  were  of  porcelain, 
and  were  of  a  manufacture  much  superior  to 
what  might  have  been  expected  from  the  situa- 
tion they  were  in.  We  were  afterwards  told  that 
the  late  Kipg  had  caused  them  to  be  brought 
from  China,  and  placed  here,  in  gratitude  for  his 
final  triumph  over  the  Taysons.    The  kings  of 


440  EMBASSY  TO  BIAM 

Cochin  China,  however,  are  not  of  the  Buddhist 
religion ;  but,  I  presume,  that,  like  the  ancient 
polytheists,  they  are  inclined  to  honour  every 
mode  of  worship  followed  by  their  subjects ; 
hoping,  no  doubt,  that  this  indiscriminate  piety 
may  sometimes  prove  profitable  to  them  in  a 
temporal  point  of  view. 

Oct.  2S.— While  at  Hu^  we  had  obtained 
leave  to  visit  the  town  of  Faifo.  This  place 
IS  one  of  the  principal  seats  of  Chinese  com^ 
merce,  and  for  this  reason  we  were  anxious  to 
be  acquainted  with  it.  Mr.  Rutherford,  Captain 
Brown,  the  commander  of  the  ship,  and  myself, 
accordingly  left  Touran  at  five  o'clock  this  morn- 
ing, in  two  boats,  on  oiu-  voyage  to  it.  Toiuan 
and  Faifo  are  connected  with  each  other  by  a 
salt-water  creek,  or  a  natural  canal,  running  all 
the  way  parallel  to  the  shore,  and  separated  from 
it  by  a  range  of  sand-hills  from  a  mile  to  a  mile 
and  a  half  broad.  At  nine  o'clock  we  reached  a 
singular  group  of  rocks,  situated  on  this. narrow 
strip  of  land,— rising  in  a  bold  and  picturesque 
manner  from  among  the  sand-hills,  and  altoge- 
ther unconnected  with  the  nearest  range  of  moun- 
tains, which  I  think  cannot  be  less  than  fifteen  or 
twenty  miles  distant.  These  rocks  are  six  in 
number,  of  an  oblong  form,  and  all  running  in 
a  direction  nearly  east  and  west  They  rise  from 
the  sands  almost  perpendicularly.  Wherever 
there  is  shelter  or  room  for  a  little  soil  to  rest. 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  441 

they  are  covered  with  a  luxuriant  vegetation  of 
arborescent    plants.      Most   generally,  however, 
they  are  quite  naked.     They  consist  of  crystal- 
lized limestone,  or  marble,  which  has  no  regu- 
lar appearance  of  stratification,  but  rises  in  per«> 
pendicular  columns,  presenting  at  the  summits 
a  serrated  appearance.     We  made  a  geometrical 
measurement  of  two  of  them   with  much  care.* 
The  lowest  of  these  was  212  feet  from  its  base, 
and  the  highest  300.     On  the  almost  perpendi- 
cular  face  of  the  loftiest  was  seen  a  herd  of 
small  monkeys  dambering  up  and  down  with 
as  much  sang-^oid  as  if  they. were  upon  the 
level  ground.    Another  rock,  and  tlie  most  sin- 
gular of  the  group,  appeared  to  us  to  be  about 
fifty  feet  higher  than  this  last ;  but  as  it  did  not 
afibrd  the  same  conveniences  for  measurement, 
we  did  not  ascertain  its  exact  height.      We  had 
been  told  that  there  were  some  caves  in  these 
rocks,  containing  images  which  were  worshipped 
by  the   natives,  but  this  circumstance  was  not 
noticed  in   such  a  manner  as  to  excite  in  us 
much  curiosity.    We  resolved,  however,  to  see 
them,  and  were  well  rewarded  for  our  trouble. 
They  are  contained  in  the  highest  and  largest 
portion  of  the  range  which  lies  nearest  the  sea. 
We  walked  up  a  steep  ascent  of  sand-hills,  which 
covered  the  base  of  the  rocks  to  a  considerable 
height,  and  entered  them  by  a  rent  or  chasm, 
which  forms  a  bold  and  striking  approach.    In-- 


442  EMBASay  TO  SIAIC 

aide  we  were  siurpriaed  to  find  some  dweUings, 
suiTounded  by  very  neat  gardena.  A  guide^ 
whom  we  found  here,  led  na  to  the  principal 
cave.  The  approadi  to  thia  was  by  a  natunl 
gallery  in  the  rock,  partly  open  and  partly  dosed 
at  top,  180  feet  long.  As  we  came  near  the 
termination  of  this,  we  had  a  view  of  the  grotto 
itself,  to  which  we  descended  by  a  flight  of  driity 
seven  artificial  steps.  The  cave  measures  eighty- 
four  feet  in  length,  and  seventy-two  in  breadth. 
The  height  appeared  to  be  hot  less  than  ei^ty 
or  ninety  feet  The  top  is  a  natural  dome,  with 
three  or  four  wide  rents  in  it,  which  let  in  a 
sufficiency  of  light  The  parasitical  plants  grow- 
ing  without,  struck  down  their  shoots  in  various 
directions  through  these,  and  some  ev^  to<^  root 
at  the  very  bottom  of  the  cave.  The  inferico: 
presented  the  appearance  of  rude  natural  oohimns, 
or  rather  pilasters,  and  in  general  had  the  vene* 
rable  look  of  a  Grothic  ruin.  The  north-east  side 
was  occupied  by  a  temple  dedicated  to  the  reli- 
gion of  Buddha,  a  form  of  worship  that,  in  theory 
at  least,  delights  in  the  recesses  of  rocks,  moun- 
tains, and  forests.  On  the  principal  altar,  there 
were  two  gilded  figures  of  Buddha  in  tiie  oom- 
mon  sitting  attitude ;  and  near  him,  in  stone, 
were  two  figures  of  his  ministers  x>r  disciples.  On 
another  altar,  to  the  right  hand,  was  a  gilt  fe- 
male figure,  also  in  a  sitting  attitude.  This,  I 
suppose^  may  have  been  the  tutelary  deity  of 


AKD  COCHIN  CHINA.  443 

tbe  rocks.  Two  monstrous  figures  stood  as  war* 
ders  at  the  aitrance  of  the  grotto^  and  twx>  more 
in  frcnt  o(  the  teiuple  of  Buddha.  Such  figures 
as  these  seem  nevcor  to  b^wwiting  in  Buddhist 
temples  of  any  magnitude. 

FrcNH  this  grotto  we  were  led  to  other  parts 
of  the  same  group  of  rodks.  In  one  phu^e  we 
were  conducted  through  a  Qatural  arched  gate- 
way into  a  square  enclosure,  which  seemed  ahout 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  every  direction, 
having  perpendicular  walls,  not  less  than  seventy 
or  eighty  feet  high.  Opposite  the  gateway  by 
whidi  we  entered  this  enclosure  was  a  second 
gateway^  from  which  we  had  a  noble  view  of  the 
sea,  not  above  three  hundred  yards  distant  from 
us, — of  the  ChamcaUao  islands  directly  before 
us,  and  of  the  beach,  lashed,  at  the  time,  by  a 
loud  surge. 

From  this  portion  of  the  rocks  we  descended, 
and  turning  to  the  north-east,  passed  through 
some  more  gardens  and  habitations,  and  entered 
another  fine  cave,  although  inferior  in  size  to  t)ie 
first.  This  was  nearly  open  at  top,  but  shaded  by 
the  foliage  and  branches  of  a  number  of  fine  trees 
growing  over  the  rocks.  One  side  of  this  cave 
was  occupied  by  a  temple,  in  which  was  a  single 
female  figure,  similar  to  that  in  the  first  temple. 

This,  we  were  informed  by  our  conductors,  was 
the  divinity  of  the  place,  the  protectress  of  the 
grotto.     This  temple,  in  opposition  to  the  one 


444  EMBASSY  TO  SIAlf 

before  mentioned,  appeared  to  be  Cochin  Chi- 
nese, and  to  have  no  marks  of  Buddhism  about  it 
The  neighbourhood  of  these  rocks,  although 
there  is  scarcely  any  thing  to  be  seen  but  naked 
sand,  is  inhabited,  and  several  villages  lie  imme- 
diately under  the  rocks  themselves.  The  inha* 
bitants  of  these  are  principally  fishermen,  and  a 
few  of  them  seem  to  gain  a  livelihood  by  making 
small  culinary  utensils  out  of  the  marble.  This 
material  is  in  some  places  white,  in  others  streaked 
with  a  bluish  vein,  but  more  commonly  it  is  of  a 
grey  or  bluish  colour.  I  am  told  that  it  is  infe- 
rior to  the  marble  of  Tonquin,  principally  because, 
from  the  frequent  fissures  in  it^  it  does  not  admit 
of  being  cut  into  blocks  of  sufficient  magnitude. 
After  breakfasting  under  shelter  of  one  of  the 
rocks,  we  set  off  for  Faifo  at  one  o'clock,  and 
reached  it  at  half-past  ten  at  night. 

Oct.  2S. — We  spent  this  day,  notwithstanding 
that  it  rained  incessantly,  in  visiting  every  part  of 
Faifo.  This  is  almost  entirely  a  Chinese  establish- 
ment, being  principally  inhabited  by  that  people 
or  their  descendants.  It  lies  upon  the  west  bank 
of  the  creek,  or  that  farthest  from  the  coast,  and 
consists  of  a  single  street,  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  in  length.  The  whole  permanent  popula- 
tion was  stated  to  us  to  amount  to  about  five 
thousand.  It  contains  six  hundred  Chinese  fami- 
lies, and  is  the  principal  mart  of  the  foreign  com- 


AND    COCHIN   CHINA.  445 

merce  of  this  part  of  the  kingdom.  Our  visit  was 
made  in  a  very  dull  and  uninteresting  period ; 
but  in  the  season  of  the  junks  it  is  a  busy  place, 
a  kind  of  fair  being  held  at  it,  at  which,  including 
the  crews  of  the  junks  and  the  inhabitants  them- 
selves, not  less  than  ten  thousand  Chinese  are 
alleged  to  be  collected.  Sugar  and  cinnamon  are 
the  great  articles  of  exportation. 

The  Chinese  houses  of  Faifo  are  all  built  of 
stone  and  lime,  and  very  neatly  and  substantially 
roofed  with  tile.  That  which  we  occupied  might, 
with  little  arrangement,  have  been  made  a  very 
comfortable  residence.  Faifo  contains  two  hand* 
some  Chinese  temples,  dedicated,  we  were  told, 
to  the  Protectress  of  Commerce  and  Navigation* 
The  principal  of  them  was  built,  about  a  century 
ago,  at  the  cost  of  a  Chinese  merchant,  who 
brought  from  China  the  principal  materials,  and 
even  the  artisans  who  constructed  it.  In  this 
temple  we  saw  £tn  immense  iron  vase,  eight  feet 
high,  and  in  the  broadest  part  about  four  feet  in 
diameter.  This  also  was  the  workmanship  of 
China.  It  stood  in  front  of  the  altar ;  behind  it 
was  a  fountain,  in  which  fifteen  or  twenty  small 
land  tortoises  were  sporting.  At  Faifo  also  we 
saw  the  largest  temple  of  Buddha  which  we  had 
Qiet  with  in  Cochin  China.  There  was  a  single 
gilded  image  of  Buddha  in  it,  behind  which  was 
a:  painting  probably  representing  one  of  his  dis-; 


446  BMBASSV  TO  SIAM 

ciples.  This  lart  was  remarkable  for  being  exhi- 
bited in  a  crimson  drapery,  with  a  gold  embroideiy 
xxpon  it. 

I  may  here  remark,  that  all  the  figures  of 
Buddha,  which  we  saw  in  Cochin  China,  differed 
materially  in  appearance  from  the  common  re- 
presentations in  Siam  and  Western  India.  The 
Cochin  Chinese  Buddha  had  Tartar  or  Chinese 
features,  instead  of  Hindu,  and  a  drapery  thrown 
over  both  shoulders  instead  of  one.  It  resemUed 
the  common  Buddha  in  attitude,  in  the  pendant 
ears,  and  in  the  mode  in  which  the  head  is  dress- 
ed. Some  of  these  images  were  fabricated  iii 
China.  May  not  the  Buddhist  warship  of  the 
Chinese  and  Cochin  Chiiieite  be  that  6(  the  first 
Buddha,  receivfed  direct  fi-om  Tartary?  and  may 
not  the  Buddhism  of  diam- and  other  western 
countries  be  the  modification  of'  it,  introduced 
by  the  second  cm*  Indian  Buddha,  the  Prince  of 
Magadha  or  B^har  ?  This  is  i  plausible  Suppo- 
sition, but  not  corroborated  by  any  hiMorical 
facts.  On  inquiry,  we  found,  for  the  first  time, 
that  to  the  temple  just  alluded  to  there  were 
pri^fsts  attached.  They  were  unluckily  all  absent, 
however,  upon  a  pilgrimage  to  a  place  in  the 
mountains,  six  or  seven  days' journey  ftom  Fatfo; 
The  following  account  of  them  was  giveii  to  vA, 
viz.,  that  they  lived  in  a  state  of  celibacy — ^that 
they  did  not  destroy  animal  life,  or  even  eat  ani- 
mal food — that  they  wore  a  peculiar  cap  as  a 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA,  44? 

head-dress— diat  dther  yellow  or  red  wad  the  co- 
lour of  their  garments,  and  that  the  Buddhists 
of  Cochin  China  burnt  the  dead  bodies  of  their 
priests,  but  not  of  the  laity. 

Faifo  is  not  the  capital  of  the  province  in 
which  it  is  situated.  The  Governor  resides  at  a 
fortffied  place,  about  six  miles  distant  from  it, 
called  Fu-chi^m,  and  which  is  in  consequence 
considered  as  the  principal  place.  The  whole 
province  is  called  Cham,  and  extends  to  the  range 
of  mountains  which  borders  the  south-west  side 
of  Hie  Bay  of  Touran.  It  is  said  to  contain  50,000 
inhabitants. 

Oct.  24.— We  left  Faifo  this  morning  at  six 
o'dock,  and  arrived  at  Touran  at  five  in  the 
evening.  The  north-east  monsoon  having  re- 
gularly set-in,  and  with  considerable  violence,  we 
had  some  difficulty  in  making  the  ship,  well  shel- 
tered as  that  part  of  the  Bay  of  Touran  is,  where 
she  lay*  Judging  from  the  rate  at  which  we  tra- 
velled on  our  return,  and  the  time  our  journey 
occupied,  I  imagine  the  whole  distance  from  Faifo 
to  Touran  is  about  thirty-five  miles.  Faifo  is 
however  six  or  eight  miles  from  the  sea ;  so  that 
the  whole  length  of  the  creek  which  connects  the 
two  places,  cannot  be  less  than  forty  miles.  To- 
wards both  extremities,  with  the  exception  of  the 
sand-bars  at  the  entrances,  there  are  at  least 
three  fathoms  water,  and  it  is  between  two  and 
three  btmdred  yards  broad.    For  a  short  way 


448  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

however,  towards  the  middle  of  its  course,  it 
contracts  to  a  breadth  of  between  twenty  and 
thirty  yards,  and  at  high-water  there  are  not  here 
above  two  or  three  feet  of  depth.  In  going  up, 
although  we  had  very  flat  boats,  we  were  detain- 
ed for  two  hours  at  this  part,  and  had  to  drag  our 
boats  over  the  shallowest  portions.  A  consider- 
able number  of  boats  were  to  be  seen  passing 
and  repassing  the  creek,  both  sides  of  which,  but 
particularly  the  land  side,  were  well  inhabited; 
and  although  the  soil  was  uncommonly  thin  and 
scanty,  every  practicable  spot  was  cultivated. 
There  was  evidently  no  want  of  industry  among 
the  people.  The  poverty  of  the  soil  was  attempt- 
ed to  be  remedied  by  manuring  it  with  a  species 
of  alga,  or  sea-weed,  fished  up  from  the  bottom 
of  the  creek.  In  ploughing,  we  noticed  that  the 
same  person  held  the  plough  and  drove  the  cattle, 
an  improvement  which  I  have  nowhere  else  seen 
in  India.  The  com  too  was  neatly  stacked,  as  in 
Europe ;  and  the  villages  altogether  presented  the 
same  neat  and  dean  appearance  which  had,  in 
other  parts,  of  this  country,  attracted  our  notice. 
It  was  the  fisheries  however,  and  not  the  land,, 
which  had  encouraged  the  people  to  settle  on  the 
banks  of  the  creek.  From  Touran  to  Faifo,  and; 
I  suppose,  through  the  rest  of  its  course,  the 
creek  is  filled,  and  indeed  in  some  places  almost 
choked  up,  with  various  contrivances  for  catching 
fish.    The  most  considerable  of  t^ese  are  a  sort  of 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  449 

stake-nets,  consisting  of  a  serieis  of  oompartmentSi 
diminishing  in  size  until  they  end  in  a  small  trap^ 
where  the  fish  is  finally  taken,  A  series  of  thesQ 
snares  is  placed  on  each  side  of  the  river,  opening 
in  opposite  directions,  and  leaving  but  a  narrow 
channel  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  for  boats 
to  pass.  In  other  situations,  faggots  of  biimboo 
canes,  with  the  branches  on,  were  fixed  in  the 
middle  of  the  creek,  forming  thick  circular  bushes, 
which  allured  the  fish  by  the  cool  retreat  they 
afforded.  When  the  fish  are  to  be  taken,  these 
bushes  are  surrounded  by  nets,  and  the  prey  scared 
out  and  taken.  Another  mode  of  fishing  was 
practised  here,  and  is  frequent  in  all  parts  of 
the  coast  of  Cochin  China.  It  consisted  of  a  net 
affixed  to  a  long  crane  and  lever,  from  the  bow 
of  a  boat,  which,  by  being  well-balanced,  was  sunk 
and  raised  without  difficulty.  With  this  machine 
prawns  and  other  small  fish  only  were  caught, 
its  use  being  confined  to  shallow  water.  In  other 
situations  there  were  ponds  on  the  banks  of  the 
creek  for  feeding  and  preserving  fish,  such  as  are 
common  in  some  parts  of  Java,  and  in  that  coun- 
try extremely  productive.  The  banks  of  the 
creek  abounded  with  mews,  coots,  and  other  com* 
mon  water-fowl,  and  with  two  large  species  of 
crane,^  of  which  we  shot  specimens. 

Oct  81- — On  the  twenty-seventh  we  were 
ready  to  sail,  but  about  twelve  o'clock  of  the 
night  of  the  twenty-sixth,  a  heavy  gale  came  on 

VOL.  I.  2  G 


450  '  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

from  the  north-east,  accompanied  with  torrents 
of  rain.  This  was  a  true  Typhoon.  The  gale 
did  not  abate  until  early  yesterday  morning,  nor 
was  there  the  least  cessation  of  rain  until  twelve 
o'clock  of  the  same  day.  In  short,  it  rained 
heavily  and  incessantly  for  a  period  of  eighty-two 
hours.  We  observed  upon  this  occadon  a  phe- 
nomenon which  I  had  never  noticed  any  where 
before,  nor  indeed  heard  of.  The  quantity  of 
rain  was  so  great,  that  it  covered  the  whole  bay 
with  a  stratum  of  fresh  water ;  so  that  we  filled 
our  cask  alongside  the  ship,  with  water  good 
enough  for  the  cattle  and  poultry.  During  liie 
height  of  the  gale,  the  harbour  of  Touran  where 
we  lay  was  quite  undisturbed,  and  we  expe- 
rienced no  inconvenience  whatever  from  the  fury 
of  the  gale. 

At  half-past  twfelve  to-day  we  weighed  anchor, 
and  stood  on  our  course  to  Singapore,  on  our  re- 
turn to  Bengal ;  our  long  detention  at  Siam  hav- 
ing brought  the  season  unluckily  to  so  advanced 
a  period,  as  to  render  it  impossible  for  us  to  fol- 
low the  route  of  the  Fhillippines  and  Dampier's 
Straits,  according  to  our  first  intentions.  Com- 
plimentary messages  passed  between  us  and  the 
Mandarins  of  Touran  before  parting. 

The  bay  of  Touran,  or  more  correctly  the  bay 
of  Han,  may  be  described  in  a  few  words.  It  is 
of  great  extent,  but  this,  instead^  of  being  an  ad- 
vantage, is  its  principal  defect.    Its  entrance  is 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  451 

to  the  north,  between  a  high  island  to  the  right, 
and  the  high  land  of  the  extremity  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Han  to  the  left.     This  channel  canqot  be 
less  than  five  miles  broad :  from  the  entrance  to 
the  bottom  of  4;he  bay  at  the  village  of  Touran,  the 
distance  is  not  less  than  twelve  miles.      Across 
the  bay,  from  east  to  west,  the  breadth  is  at 
least  eight  miles.     To  the  east,  the  bay  is  formed 
by  the  high  land  of  the  peninsula  of  Han ;  aijid 
to  the  west,  by  a  range  of  mountains  still  higher. 
The  south  and  south-east  sides  alone  are  formed 
by  low  sandy  land.      The  anchorage  notwithr 
standing  the  great  size  of  the  bay  is  but  of  mo- 
delrate  extent.     It  lies  to  the  north-east  angle, 
within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  high  land  of 
the  peninsula;  and  behind  a  small  promontory, 
off  which  there  is  a  stony  islet.     In  sailing  iii, 
the  best  anchorage  is  determined  as  soon  as  the 
entrance  of  the  bay  is  closed  in.     To  the  southern 
side,  the  extent  of  the  harbour  is  limited  by  a  low 
flat  sand  coming  out  from  the  entrance  of  the 
creek.    Upon  the  whole,  it  is  not  above  a  mile 
and  a  half  in  extent  in  any  direction,  notwith- 
standhig  the  spaciousness  of  the  bay  itself..   Every 
other  part  of  the  bay  except  the  small  cove  where 
the  village  is  Situated,  which  forms  the  last  stage 
frowL  Hud,  is  just  as  exposed  as  the   open  sea^ 
and  upon  the  western  coast  especially,  a  formi- 
dable surf  always  previdls,  which  renders  landing 
both  dilSicult  and  dangerous,  even  in  the  finest 

2  G  2 


452  fiHBASSY  TO  6IAM 

weather.  We  left  the  ship  one  morning  when 
it  was  perfectly  calm,  and  after  a  long  continuance 
of  fine  weather,  with  an  intention  of  exploring 
this  part  of  the  bay ;  but  found  the  swell  and  the 
surf  running  so  high,  that  we  dared  not  attempt 
to  kuid,  although  we  approached  within  a  few 
yards  of  the  shore. 

JVbr.  2.— The  wind  with  which  we  were  beat- 
ing out  of  the  bay  of  Touran  on  the  81st,  hav* 
ing  failed  us  on  the  same  evening,  we  were 
compelled  to  come  to  an  anchor,  but  at  twelve 
o'clock  at  night  a  strong  breeze  having  sprung  up 
from  the  north-west,  which  soon  increased  to  a 
fresh  gale,  we  made  sail.  At  noon,  on  the  1st 
of  November,  we  were  in  the  latitude  of  15®  18' 
North,  and  to-day,  assisted  by  the  same  favour- 
able wind,  and  by  a  strong  current  setting  with 
the  monsoon,  we  ran  the  extraordinary  distance 
of  two  hundred  and  forty-nine  miles  of  latitude, 
and  found  ourselves,  by  our  meridian  observaticm^ 
in  11®  9'.  At  sunset  we  were  in  sight  of  Pulo 
fiapata,  one  of  the  three  islands,  or  rather  rocks, 
called  The  Catwicks,  and  which  are  considefed 
by  navigators  the  southern  limit  of  hurricanes  or 
Typhoons.  Pulo  Sapata,  the  second  of  the  same 
name  mentioned  in  this  journal,  is  a  bare  inae* 
cessiUe  rock,  visible  thirty  miles  off  from  a  diip's 
deck,  and  is  the  undisturbed  habitation  of  thou- 
sanda  of  sea^fowL     We  were  to-day,  for  the  first 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  45^ 

time  for  near  nine  months,  in  the  ordinary  track 
of  £mx>pean  navigation. 

JVbi?.  6. — ^We  lost  the  regular  monsoon  on  the 
8d,  and  ever  since  had  nothing  but  light  aim 
and  calms,  the  season  being  too  early  for  the  set- 
ting in  of  the  regular  periodical  wind  so  far  to 
the  south.  At  noon  to-day,  our  latitude  was 
5®  is',  and  our  longitude  106^  8'.  At  daylight 
two  European  sail  were  in  sight,  the  first  we 
had  seen  for  near  nine  months.  In  the  course  of 
the  day  we  spoke  the  American  brig  Comet,  of 
Salem,  direct  from  Canton,  but  obtained  no  news 
from  her.  The  other  vessel  had  the  appearance 
of  a  British  ship  bound  for  India.  Within  the 
last  few  days,  although  distant  at  least  two  bun* 
dred  miles  from  any  land,  we  were  accompanied 
by  an  extraordinary  number  of  land-birds,  such 
as  swallows,  yellow-hammers,  and  hawks.  Of  all 
these  we  caught  specimens,  as  they  lay  asleep 
on  the  rigging,  exhausted  by  fatigue.  Of  hawks^ 
we  caught  in  this  manner  no  less  than  six  of  two 
species.  These  animals,  notwithstanding  the 
precarious  situation  they  were  in,  hunted  the 
smaller  birds,  and  caught  them  in  our  presence 
as  coolly  as  if  they  were  in  their  native  woods 
and  hills.  It  is  remarkable,  that  at  the  same 
time  we  did  not  see  any  water-fowl,  with  the 
exception  of  a  single  pelican. 

Ndo.  7. — The  group  of  islands  called  the  Anam- 


4fi4  BMBaSSY  TO  SIAM 

has,  being  little  out  of  our  course,  and  imperfectly 
known,  we  considered  that  a  visit  to  them  would 
prove  of  some  interest,  and  accordingly  stood  down 
for  them  in  the  course  of  yesterday.  Early  this 
morning  they  were  in  sight,  appearing  more  nu- 
merous and  more  extensive  than  they  are  repre* 
sented  in  the  common  charts.  By  noon  we  were 
dose  to  one  of  the  most  northern  group,  when 
our  latitude  was  3**  26'  North,  and  our  longitude 
by  chronometer,  105*  5^  East.  At  five  in  the 
evening  we  were  within  800  yards  of  a  small 
island;  and  the  wind  being  then  unfavourable, 
we  would  have  anchored  for  the  night,  but  there 
was  no  ground  in  less  than  thirty-seven  fathoms. 
As  we  passed  the  eastern  side  of  this  island,  a 
little  sandy  cove  was  opposite  to  us,  immediately 
above  the  beach  of  which,  but  in  no  other  part 
of  the  island,  was  a  grove  of  old  cocoa-nut  trees. 
There  wa6  no  sign  of  dwellings,  but  it  is  proba^ 
ble,  from  the  appearance  of  the  coooa-nut  trees, 
that  the  place  was  once  inhabited ;  yet  the  island 
is  extremely  small  and  steep,  and  the  bay  could 
have  afforded  no  shelter  for  fishermen  or  their 
boats  in  the  north-east  monsoon.  Upon  this 
beach  the  surf  ran  so  high,  although  it  had  the 
appearance  of  being  sheltered,  that  we  were 
unable  to  effect  a  landing.  The  rock  formation 
appeared  to  be  sand-^tone. 

Nov.  9- — During  the  night  of  the  7th  we  lay 
off  and  on,  not  being  able  to  come  to  an  anchor 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  455 

from  the  great  depth  of  water.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  found  ourselves  in  an  extensive  basin, 
dosed  in  on  all  sid^s,  except  the  north  and  north- 
west, by  groups  and  chains  of  islands.  During 
the  day  we  endeavoured  to  reach  a  long  chain 
which  lay  to  the  west  of  us,  and  which  from 
appearance  promised  to  contain  what  we  were 
most  anxious  to  find — a  secure  harbour.  Con- 
trary and  baf&ing  winds,  and  a  heavy  swell,  made 
it  however  impossible  for  us  to  reach  it,  and  we 
came  to  an  anchor  at  night  in  thirty-two  fathoms. 
This  morning  the  same  unfavourable  weather  still 

ontinued,  and  our  time  admitting  of  no  longer 
delay,  we  were  reluctantly  compelled  to  quit  the 

stands,  without  making  those  inquiries  which  we 
were  so  anxious  about,  and  we  made  sail,  con* 
tinning  our  route  towards  the  Straits  of  Singa- 
pore. 

The  islands,  called  by  European  navigators  the 
Anambas,  a  name  not  known  to  the  Malays  of 
the  country,  are  properly  called  by  the  various 
names  of  Siantan,  Jamajah,  and  Sarasan,  which 
make  the  northern,  middle,  and  southern  Anam- 
bas of  our  charts.  They  are,  in  all,  about  fifty  in 
number,  and  form,  along  with  the  other  islands 
between  the  Malay  peninsula  and  Borneo,  from 
the  longitude  of  104^  to  110^  East,  dependencies 
of  the  principality  of  Jehor.  They  are  generally 
hilly  and  sterile,  and  inhabited  by  true  Malays, 
always  poor,  and  commonly  inoffensive.    These 


456  EllBAMY  TO  8IAM 

people  cultiyate  a  little  mountain  rioe  and  maue, 
cocoa-nuts,  and  sago ;  and  their  shores  affi>rd  the 
tripang,  or  holothurion.  The  population  of  the 
Anambas  Islands  is  said  to  amount  to  fifteen 
hundred.  They  carry  on  a  traffic  with  the  Straits 
of  Malacca,  which  has  considerably  increased  since 
the  establishment  of  the  new  settlement  of  Sin-i- 
gapore. 

Nov.  IS. — Ever  since  we  left  the  Anambas,  we 
encountered  nothing  but  calms,  or  light  and  baf- 
ffing  airs.  To-day,  at  noon,  we  were  in  latitude 
2^  ir  Bintang  Hill,  in  the  Straits  of  Malacca,  vi- 
sible  from  the  mast-head  before  us,  and  the  islands 
Timun  (Tioman),  Pisang,  Aor  (Awar),  and  Pulo 
Tingi,  in  sight  to  the  north.  The  islands  now 
named,  except  Pisang,  are  scantily  inhabited  by 
Malay  fishermen,  who  cultivate  a  few  roots  and 
ordinary  fruits,  but  none  of  them  contain  a  har- 
bour. Pulo  Aor  is  of  importance  to  navigation, 
as  being  the  universal  point  of  departure  for  ships 
bound  to  China,  as  well  as  the  mark  by  which» 
on  their  return,  they  steer  for  the  Straits  of  Ma^ 
lacca  and' the  Java  seas. 

Nov.  16.— -On  the  14th,  we  passed  the  white 
rock,  which  lies  in  the  very  entrance  of  the  Straits 
of  Malacca,  and  which  is  so  well  known  to  Eu- 
ropean navigators  under  the  Portuguese  name  of 
Pedro  Branco ;  and  this  morning  we  had  the  plea- 
sure of  seeing  the  British  flag  flying  at  the  new 
sAtlement  of  Singapore.      We  anchored  in  the 


ANI>  COCHIN  CHINA.  457 

course  of  the  day,  and  landed  in  the  evening. 
We  had  now,  after  an  absence  of  nine  months, 
and  after  being  without  any  accounts  from  Eng- 
land for  a  whole  year,  the  pleasure  to  receive  the 
numerous  communications  of  our  Indian  and 
English  .correspondents,  with  files  of  Indian  and 
English  journals  and  periodical  publications. 

Nw.  28. — After  a  stay  of  six  days  at  Singa^ 
pore,*  and  after  witnessing  the  rapid  improve- 
ments which  had  been  effected  in  this  flourishing 
settlement  even  during  the  short  period  of  our 
own  absence,  we  embarked  last  night,  in  pur- 
suance of  our  voyage,  and  made  sail  at  day- 
light this  morning.  Dr.  Wallich,  the  Super- 
intendent .  of  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Calcutta, 
whom  we  found  at  Singapore,  where  he  had 
come  for  the  restoration  of  his  health,  became  the 
companion  of  our  voyage  to  Bengal.  In  the 
evening,  it  falling  calm  after  we  had  passed  the 
channel  of  the  Rabbit  and  Coney,  we  followed 
our  usual  practice,  and  landed.  Dr.  Wallich  ac- 
companied Mr.  Finlayson  and  myself.  The  island 
which  we  visited  is  called  in  the  charts  Alligator 
Island,  and  lies  dose  to  another  which  is  known 
by  the  name  of  Barren  Island.  The  first  con- 
sists of  a  mass  of  sandstone  of  various  colours 
and  textures,  in  which  are  frequent  veins  of  day 

"*  An  ample  acoount  of  Singapore  will  be  foond  in  a  aabee* 
quent  chapter. 


458  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

iron-ore,  the  formation  in  fact  differing  in  no 
way,  as  far  as  we  oould  disooyar,  from  that  of 
Singapore.  Dr.  Wallich  described  the  v^etable 
productions  of  all  these  islands  as  equally  rich 
and  novd,  and  was,  in  fact,  carrying  back  with 
him  a  curious  and  extensive  botanical  ooUee- 
tion. 

iVbr.  25. — Last  night  we  passed  Malacca,  and 
at  noon  to-day  were  off  Cape  Rachado.  Hare 
the  Straits  are  not  above  thirty  roUes  broad,  and 
while  we  pass  within  a  few  miles  of  the  coast 
of  the  continent,  the  Sumatran  shore  is  dis- 
tinctly visible.  Dr.  Wallich  and  I  landed  in 
the  evening,  and  made  a  short  examination  of 
Cape  Rachado.  This  is  a  promontory,  rising 
boldly  from  the  sea  to  the  height  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet.  Its  geological  formaticoi 
is  quartz  rock,  interspersed  with  frequent  veins 
of  clay  iron-ore.  It  appears  to  be  the  extre- 
mity of  a  ramification  of  the'^great  chain  of  pri- 
mitive mountains,  which  runs  thus  far  through- 
out the  whole  Malayan  peninsula.  Beyond  it, 
and  all  the  way  down  to  Point  Romania,  there 
are  detached  hills,  but  no  continudus  range  of 
high  mountains.  A  rapid  current  passes  Cape 
Rachado,  occasioning  a  swell  of  the  sea  even 
during  a  calm,  as  was  the  case  whai  we  now 
visited  it.  On  each  side  of  the  Cape  there  is  a 
sandy  cove.  We  landed  on  that  to  the  N.W., 
which  we  found  wild,  romantic,  and  very  pretty. 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  459 

Here,  as  every  where  else,  we  added  many  no- 
velties to  our  botanical  collection. 

Nao.  29. — The  island  of  Binding  or  Pangkur 
having  proved  in  our  outward  voyage  so  rich  a 
field  for  botany,  we  were  induced  to  touch  at  it 
last  night  for  a  few  hours.  A  party  landed  near 
the  ruins  of  the  Dutch  fort,  and  was  very  suc- 
cessful in  obtaining  specimens  of  living  plants 
for  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Calcutta.  Among 
others,  we  procured  several  fine  ones  of  the 
splendid  epidendron,  which  Mr.  Finlayson  had 
discovered  in  our  former  visit. 

Dec.  2. — This  morning  we  anchored  in  the 
harbour  of  Penang,  having  come  in  by  the  south- 
em  channel.  After  breakfast  we  landed,  and  at 
the  delightful  mansion  of  the  Governor,  Mr. 
Phillips,  were  received  with  the  same  hospi- 
tality and  kindness  as  on  our  first  visit,  just  one 
year  before. 

Dec.  5. — I  paid  a  visit  this  morning,  at  the 
suggestion  of  the  Governor,  to  the  Raja  of  Queda, 
accompanied  by  the  Secretary,  Mr.  Cracroft.  This 
chief  was  an  old  acquaintance :  I  had  paid  him 
a  visit  at  Queda  in  the  year  ]  810.  At  that  time 
he  was  a  young  man  of  little  more  than  thirty, 
of  goodly  appearance,  and  extremely  fair  for  a 
Malay.  He  was  now  very  much  changed,  indeed, 
and  although  only  forty-two  or  forty-three,  had 
the  appearance  of  sixty.  His  manners,  like  those 
of  all  Malays  of  rank,  and  generally,  indeed,  like 


480  EMBASSY  TO  8IAM 

those  of  the  whole  race,  ware  soft,  pleasing,  and 
unassuming,  I  had  the  mortification  of  h&ng 
the  channel  of  communicating  to  him  the  result  of 
my  unsuccessful  efforts  at  Siam.in  his  behalf.  He 
received  my  statement  with  composure,  and  said 
that,  with  the  assistance  of  his  friends,  the 
Princes  of  Perak,  Salangor,  and  Siak,  he  would 
make  an  effort  to  recover  his  country ;  which, 
after  laying  it  waste,  and  driving  the  population 
into  exile,  the  Siamese  themselves  had  now  in  a 
great  measure  abandoned. 

Dec.  8. — Having  communicated  with  the  Go* 
vemment  of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island  respecting 
the  result  of  my  Mission  to  Siam,  and  afforded 
every  necessary  explanation,  we  embarked  this 
morning  for  Bengal,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  quitted 
the  harbour.  Besides  a  great  quantity  of  dried 
specimens  of  plants,  we  brought  with  us  from 
Penang  for  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Calcutta, 
fourteen  large  boxes  of  living  plants. 

Dec.  10.— The  coast  of  Queda,  between  Pe- 
nang  and  Junk-Ceylon,  is  fronted  by  numerous 
islands  of  various  sizes.  The  principal  of  these 
are  the  Ladas  which  mean  the  Pepper  Islands, 
Lang-kawi,  Trutab,  and  Butong.  Yesterday 
morning  we  were  within  two  miles  of  the  most 
southern,  or  Lada  Islands.  Between  these  is  a 
fine  harbour,  very  conveniently  situated  for  the 
common  track  of  navigation.  This  is  called,  by 
the  English,  Bass  Harbour.    The  country,  noU 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  461 

withstanding  the  deceitful  appearance  of  its  lux* 
uriant  forests,  so  apt  to  mislead  an  European 
stranger,  appears  so  steep,  so  rugged,  and  so 
inhospitable,  that  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  it 
capable  of  being  converted  to  any  useful  pur* 
pose  in  the  present  state  of  society  in  these  re^ 
gions.  Lang-kawi  is  the  largest  island  of  the 
group,  and  is  said  to  contain  from  four  to  five 
Hiousand  inhabitants,  all  Malays^  This  popuhu 
tion  is  situated  upon  the  eastern  or  sheltered 
side  of  the  island,  opposite  to  the  main-land. 
During  our  absence,  the  Siamese  invaded  the 
island,  and  took  possession  of  it.  In  conse* 
quence  of  this,  a  great  number  of  the  inhabi- 
tants fled  to  Prince  of  Wales's  Island.  From 
these,  and  other  refugees  from  the  Queda  ter- 
ritory, the  Government  of  Penang  has  establish* 
ed  a  colony  on  the  narrow  strip  of  land  which 
we  hold  upon  the  Peninsula,  and  which,  at 
the  period  of  our  visit,  already  amounted  to 
nine  thousand  persons.  It  may  here  be  worth 
mentioning,  that  Lang*kawi,  an  island  now  so 
little  frequented,  was  visited  in  1672  by  Com«> 
modore  Beaulieu,  the  sensible  and  intelligent 
Frenchman  who  conducted  the  first  advieQture 
of  his  nation  to  the  Indies.  It  was  then  ce» 
lebrated  for  its  production  of  pepper,  a  com^ 
modity  which  it  now  afibrds  in  too  inconr 
siderable  a  quantity  even  to  deserve  mention. 
Triitao^  commonly  called  by  us  Trotto,  is  scan^ 


462  EMBA8ST  TO   SIAM 

tily  inhabited  by  a  peculiar  race,  who  have  the 
physical  appearance  of  the  Malays,  speak  a  dialect 
of  the  same  language,  but  have  not  yet  adopted 
the  Mahometan  religion.  They  are  strictly  fish- 
ermen, tiving  as  much  as  possible  on  a  fish  diet, 
and  almost  entirely  n^leeting  the  cultivation 
of  a  soil,  which  indeed  appears  to  ofier  diem 
litde  temptation.  They  are  called,  by  the  Ma* 
lays,  Orang  Laut,  or  Men  of  the  Sea ;  the  same 
dehofmination  by  whidi  the  fishermen  of  the  op- 
posite extremity  of  the  Straits  of  Malacca  are 
also  known,  and  which  indeed  is  frequently  ap- 
plied to  races  of  similar  habits  in  oth»  parts  of 
the  Archipelago. 

Dec.  12. — ^To-day  we  passed  along  the  coast  bf 
the  Island  of  Junk-Ceylon,  called  by  the  Siamese 
Talang.  The  Malays,  who,  from  the  narrow- 
ness of  the  strait,  which  divides  it  from  the  con- 
tinent, can  hardly  be  induced  to  consider  it  aH 
island,  have  corrupted  it  into  Ujung  Salang,  which 
means  the  point  or  cape  of  Salang,  which  our 
mariners,  and  after  them  our  geographical  writers, 
•have  converted,  with  no  small  violence  to  orthogra^ 
phy,  into  its  present  name.  We  were  again,  there* 
fore,  in  the  vicinity  of  our  friends  the  Siamese^ 
for  this  island  belongs  to  Siam,  and  its  native 
inhabitants  are  the  Siamese  race.  €reographically, 
it  runs  in  a  direction  neariy  north  and  soutii, 
between  the  latitudes  of  T  46'.  and  8""  9',  and  in 
die  longitude  of  98^  2a.     It  is  twenty »four  miles 


AND  COCHIN  CHINA.  468 

long»  and  about  nine  miles  broad.  On  the  west- 
em  side  it  presaits  a  mountainous,  bold,  woody^ 
and  uncultivated  aspect  The  eastern  side,  lying 
opposite  to  the  large  island  of  Pulo  Panjang,  is 
the  cultivated  and  inhabited  portion,  and  con- 
tains several  bays  or  harbours,  the  most  consi- 
derable one  of  which  is  about  four  leagues  from 
the  south-east  extremity.  This  last  is  a  good 
harbour,  and  the  principal  town  or  village  of  the 
island,  caUed  Teroa,  is  situated  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  up  a  small  river  which  falls  into  it  Junk- 
Ceylon  is  divided  from  the  main  land  by  the 
Straits  of  Papra,  about  fifteen  miles  in  length. 
The  eastern  extremity  of  these  straits  forms  a 
good  harbour. 

The  mountains  of  Junk-Ceylon  are  granitic, 
and  it  is  highly  probable,  therefore,  that  the  soil 
is  scanty  and  far  from  being  fertile.  It  abounds, 
however,  in  tin,  and  is  probably,  next  to  Banca, 
the  most  productive  country  in  the  East,  in  this 
metal.  In  the  year  1787,  according  to  the  de- 
scription of  Mr.  Francis  Light,  the  first  Grovemor 
of  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,,  the  whole  produce  of 
the  island  amounted  to  four  thousand  piculs  of 
tin,  or  to  two  hundred  and  thirty-eight  tons.  I 
have  no  means  of  ascertaimng  its  present  produce. 
Mr.  Light  also  gives  a  description  of  the  process 
of  mining,  from  which  it  appears  that  the  ore 
is  f  omid  in  a  situation  exactly  similar  to  that  of 
Banca,  viz.  in  alluvial  soil,  at  from  ten  to  thirty 


464  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

feet  below  the  surface,  and  often  dose  to  the  sea* 
side.  The  stratum  of  ore  is,  as  in  that  island, 
mixed  with  fragments  of  granite  and  quartz,  and 
as  there  too,  always  lies  upon  a  bed  of  white 
friable  clay.  From  this  statement,  there  can  be 
little  doubt  of  the  fertility  of  the  mines.  The 
account  which  Mr.  Light  gives  of  the  economy 
of  the  mines,  and  of  the  process  of  working  them, 
shows  that  they  are  wretchedly  managed,  com* 
pared  even  with  those  of  Banca;  a  matter  easily 
accounted  for,  since  the  first  are  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  Siamese,  and  the  latter  managed  by 
the  intelligent  and  industrious  Chinese. 

During  the  last  fifty  years,  Junk-Ceylon  has 
been  a  frequent  bone  of  contention  between  the 
Siamese  and  Burmans.  In  1810,  the  Burmans 
invaded  and  captured  it  with  a  very  large  force ; 
but  in  the  course  of  a  few  months,  they  were 
compelled  to  surrender  to  the  Siamese  at  di&. 
eretioh,  to  the  number  of  4,000.  The  chiefs,  on 
this  occasion,  were  all  beheaded,  and  the  lower 
classes  carried  into  captivity.  We  saw  a  few  of 
the  survivors  working  in  chains  in  Siam  when 
we  were  there. 

Dee.  16. — In  the  latitude  of  Junk-Ceylon,  and 
up  to  the  Seyer  Islands,  we  had  variable  winds 
and  a  good  deal  of  rain.  On  the  evening  of 
the  ISth,  we  passed  between  the  latter  islands 
and  the  main-land.  We  then  got  the  regular 
north-east  monsoon,  which  is  a  fair  wind  be- 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  465 

tween  the  Straits  of  Malacca  and  Bengal^  both 
gcing  and  coming ;  and  towards  the  east  side  of 
the  Bay  always  brings  with  it,  during  the  months 
of  December,  January,  and  February,  sofene  and 
delightful  weather,  such  as  we  now  experienced* 
Last  night,  we  passed  the  Island  of  Narcondam 
at  no  great  distance;  this  morning,  the  Cocos,  and 
in  the  evening  the  Prquiris.  The  Cocos  are  two 
small  woody  islands  which  form  a  portion  of  the 
Andaman  chain,  being  connected  with  them  by 
soundings  of  no  great  depth.  They  take  their 
name  from  a  few  cocoa-nut  trees  seen  upon  the 
beach,  but  they  are  uninhabited. 

Dec.  29.— From  the  I6th  to  the  S^th  we  had 
fine  weather,  but  light  and  bafl9ing  winds.  On 
the  latter  day  we  received  a  pilot..  On  the  28th« 
having  reached  the  Island  of  Saugor,  I  embarked 
for  expedition  in  a  native  boat,  and,  rowing  all 
night,  reached*  Calcutta  on  the  afternoon  of  the 
S9th,  after  an  absence  from  that  place  of  above 
thirteen  months.  On  the  same  day,  I  made  my 
report  to  the  Marquess  of  Hastings,  whom  I 
found  on  the  point  of  sailing  for  England.  His 
Lordship  was  pleased  to  approve  of  the  discre-i 
tion  with  which,  .under  many  difficult  ai^  em- 
barrassing circumstances,  the  affairs  of  the  Mis^ 
sion  had  been  conducted;  and  I  had  afterwards 
the  honour  of  receiving  the  official  approbation 
of  his  immediate  successor,  my  amiable  and  la« 
mented  frigid  the  late  Mr.  Adand. 

VOL.  I.  2    H 


466  .KMBASSY   to   8IAM 

Before  bringing  this  narrative  to  a  dose»  it 
will  be  necessary  briefly  to  advert  to  the  subset 
quent  circumstances  of  our  connexion  with  Siam 
and  Cochin  China,  chiefly  in  so  far  as  they  relate 
to  the  Mission.  We  left  on  our  departure  from 
Siam  the  British  trading-vessel  already  mentioned 
at  that  place.  Her  commander  and  supercargo, 
very  discreet  and  respectable  men,  had  presented 
to  the  King  upon  their  arrival  an  Indian  horse  of 
no  great  value,  and  chiefly  selected  on  their  part 
oh  account  of  his  colour,  which  was  white.  The 
King  had  accepted  the  offeijng,  and  kept  the 
horse  for  several  months ;  but  pretending  to  discor 
ver  that  he  bad  unlucky  marks,  and  in  reality  find- 
ing that  he  was  much  inferior  in  value  to  the  horse 
presented  by  the  Governor-general,  he  was  un- 
ceremoniously returned  just  as  the  ship  was  on 
the  point  of  sailing.  The  vessel  was  small,  deeply 
laden,  and  had,  on  her  return,  to  beat  against,  the 
monsoon.  It  was,  therefore,  impossible  to  accom- 
modate the  animal,  and  it  was  resolved  to  destroy 
him.  Very  imprudently,  and  in  ignorance  of  the 
religious  prejudices  of  the  Siamese,  thb  was  done 
publicly,  and  without  any  precaution.  The  offi- 
cers of  the  Siamese  Government  took  high  of- 
fence, and  resolved  to  punish  the  authors  of  the 
alleged  sacrilege.  They  had  not,  however,  the 
courage  to  venture  upon  this  step  publicly,  and 
therefore,  under  a  false  pretext,  seduced  the  com- 
mander and  supercargo  to  the  house  of  the  Prince 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  467 

Krom-Chiat.  Here  they  were  beset  by  hundreds 
of  persons,  jostled,  thrown  down,  brutally  beaten, 
put  in  irons,  imprisoned  four  days,  and,  finally, 
compelled  to  sign  an  unqualified  apology,  written 
in  the  Siamese  language,  not  one  word  of  which 
they  either  understood,  or  was  explained  to  them* 
The  Siamese  Government,  however,  had  some 
misgivings  of  the  prudence  of  this  proceeding, 
and  thought  it  necessary  to  address  an  apologetic 
letter  to  the  Governor-general,  in  which  the  con- 
duct of  the  commander  and  supercargo  was,  with 
a  good  deal  of  address,  represented  in  aggravated 
and  false  colours.  The  Prah-klang,  the  writer  of 
this  letter,  insisted  that  the  crime  of  killing  a 
horse  was  worthy  of  death,  and  that  had  it  been 
committed  by  a  native  of  the  country,  it  would 
inevitably  have  been  followed  by  that  punish- 
ment. 

The  letter  of  the  Prah-klang  also  contained 
accusations  against  the  officers  of  the  Mission  and 
other  persons  connected  with  it.  The  matter  of 
these,  notwithstanding  the  precautions  taken  to 
disarm  the  jealousy  of  the  Gk)vemment,  chiefly 
referred  to  the  inquiries  which  we  had  made  re- 
specting the  geography  and  statistics  of  the  coun- 
try, few  and  guarded  as  these  were.  Our  inter- 
preters in  the  Malay  and  Siamese  languages  not 
being  wanted  for  the  remainder  of  our  voyage, 
had,  at  their  own  request,  when  we  proceeded 
to  Cochin  China,  been  left  at  Siam,  with  the  view 


468  £MB^9SY   TO   8JAM 

of  enabling  them,  by  an  ovarland  journey^  to  retum 
the  sooner  hcmie.  These  persons,  it  was  pretended 
by  the  Siamese  Government,  had  given  tlie  moat 
rnifarourable  representation  of  the  objects  of  the 
Mission.  Extracts  of  th^  letter  of  the  Prah-* 
khmg  will  be  found  in  the  Appendix,  as  well  as 
the  reply  made  to  it  by  the  Govemor-goieral. 

During  the  period  that  I  was  Resident  at  Sin- 
gapore, as  Agent  to  the  Governor-general  fcnr 
Siam,  Cochin  China^  &c.  I  carried  on  a  frequent 
and  friendly  correspondence  with  this  same  Frah- 
klang,  whom  I  found,  as  during  my  residehoe  in 
Siam,  a  shrewd,  wary«  and  very  mercenary  per** 
sonage*  He,  as  well  as  the  other  officers  of  the 
Court,  traded  extensively  with  Singapore,  and 
it  would. have  been  impossible  to  gather  from 
bis  conduct  or  correspondence  that  he  had  ever 
expressed  a  sinister  opinion,  either  of  our  policy 
or  commerce. 

After  the  breaking  out  of  the  Burmese  war, 
a  second  mission  was  sent  by  the  Governor- 
general,  the  object  of  which  was  to  gain  the 
assistance  of  the  Siamese,  and  to  improve  our 
commercial  relations.  The  first  object  might 
have  been  gained  by  giving  up  to  the  Siamese 
our  conquests^  on  the  coast  of  Tenaserim ;  but 
this  was  a  measure  which  could  not  be  taken 
without  compromising  our  hcmour;  for  it  was 
discovered,  on  the  occupation  of  the  country  in 
question,  that  the  inhabitants,  either  themselves 


AND  COCHIN   CHINA.  469 

Burmese,  or  long  reconciled  to  the  Government 
of  Ava»  bore  a  rancorous  hatred  to  the  Siamese, 
which  would  have  made  their  surrender  to  this 
power,  on  any  terms,  a  measure  of  cruelty  and 
discredit.  The  Siamese  sent  armies  into  the  fidd; 
and  showed  a  disposition  to  cooperate  with  us; 
but  when  they  found  there  was  nothing  sub* 
stantial  to  be  gained,  they  withdrew,  and  stood 
neuter,  making  warm  professions  of  friendship 
to  both  the  belligerent  parties,  but  obviously 
more  apprehensive  of  us,  in  the  long  run,  than 
of  their  hereditary  and  inveterate  enemy,  the 
Burmese. 

In  a  commercial  point  of  view,  the  result  of 
the  last  mission  was  a  consolidation,  without  any 
reduction  of  the  duties  and  charges.  This,  has 
been  accompanied  by  no  beneficial  results,  nor 
is  it  likely  to  be.  In  consequence  of  the  ex- 
pectation of  extending  British  commerce  with 
Siam  by  a  direct  intercourse,  some  intelligent, 
enterprising,  and  extensive  efforts  were  made 
with  this  view  by  the  merchants  of  Singapore, 
backed  by  the  capital  of  London  and  Liver- 
pool. They  may  be  said,  however,  to  have  to- 
tally failed,  and  one  establishment,  after  an  ex- 
perience of  two  or  three  years'  actual  residence, 
has  recently,  and  since  the  date  of  the  last  treaty, 
abandoned  the  undertaking  as  hopeless.  In  fact, 
the  residence  of  English  merchants,  owing  to 
the  political  fears  of  the  Siamese,  is  extremely 


470  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

repugnant  to  the  wishes  of  the  Government  of 
the  country,  while  the  free  and  independent  con- 
duct of  our  countrymen  is  so  incompatible  with 
the  servility  and  obsequiousness  which  is  looked 
for,  not  only  from  natives  but  from  strangers, 
that  it  must,  of  necessity,  prove  repulsive  and 
offensive  to  the  pride  and  prejudices  of  the  Siam- 
ese chiefs.  To  these  obstacles  to  the  establish- 
ment of  a  free  trade  on  our  part,  must  be  add- 
ed  the  strong  motive  to  counteract  it  which 
exists  in  the  personal  interests  of  the  chief  offi- 
cers, who  now  enjoy  a  monopoly  of  lucrative 
privileges,  which  any  approach  to  free  trade  would 
impair  or  destroy. 

One  object  of  the  last  Mission  was  the  resto- 
ration of  the  Prince  of  Queda  to  his  throne,  and 
the  emancipation  of  the  Malayan  tributaries  of 
Siam  from  its  thraldom.  These  objects  were 
not  only  not  attained,  but  we  bound  ourselves 
by  the  stipulations  of  a  treaty  from  all  future 
interference.  As  a  specimen  of  the  political  sa* 
gacity  and  shrewdness  of  the  Siamese  Court,  I 
give  in  the  Appendix  its  reply  to  the  memo- 
rial of  the  Envoy,  adding  my  conviction  that 
the  conduct  of  this  officer  throughout  was  not 
jonly  able  but  highly  prudent  and  discreet. 

With  respect  to  Cochin  China,  I  have  but  few 
observations  to  make.  The  repeated  professions 
of  the  foreign  minister,  as  well  as  of  the  Go- 
vernor of  Kamboja,  tendering  offers  of  protection 


AND   COCHIN  CHINA.  471 

and  assistance  to  such  British  merchants  as  might 
Sequent  the  country,  induced  me,  not  long  after 
I, took  charge  of  Singapore,  to  furnish  the  su- 
percargo of  a  British  merchant-ship  proceeding 
to  Hue  and  Saigun,  with  letters  of  introduction. 
The  Governor  of  Kamhoja  received  the  letter,  ad- 
dressed to  him,  with  great  civility  and  replied 
to  it,  and  a  friendly  correspondence  ensued.  The 
reception  of  my  letter  to  the  foreign  minister 
was  very  different.  The  bearer  of  it  was  decla- 
red to  have  violated  the  laws  of  the  Empire  in 
bringing  a  letter  from  a  stranger,  and,  in  fact, 
to  have  committed  such  an  offence  as,  with  a 
native  of  the  country,  would  have  entitled  him 
to  capital  punishment.  *  This  however,  it  must 
be  added,  amounted  only  to  a  threat  or  insinu- 
ation, for  no  violence  was  offered  to  himself,  or 
real  impediment  thrown  in  the  way  of  his  bu-^ 
siness. 

1  shall  conclude  with  a  few  remarks  upon 
the  most  expedient  and  suitable  manner  of  main- 
taining our  future  political  and  commercial  re- 
lations with  the  Courts  of  Siam  and  Cochip 
China.  With  the  strong  excitement  which  our 
conquests  in  Hindostan  has  produced,  probably 
the  most  prudent,  if  not  the  most  profitable, 
mode  of  conducting  our  trade  will  be  through  the 
channel  of  the  Chinese  junks.  This  is  an  inter- 
course which,  as  it  offers  no  offence  to  their 
manners  or  political  prejudices,  they  are  not  less 


47S  EMBASSY  TO  SIAM 

anxious  to  ]»t>inote  than  ourselves.  In  reality, 
it  not  only  increases  in  amount  from  year  to  year, 
but  considerable  improvements  have  taken  place 
even  in  the  mode  of  conducting  it,  which  pro- 
mise to  render  it  in  no  long  time  equally  exten- 
sive and  advantageous. 

Our  political  relations  with  the  Siamese  must, 
from  their  nature,  be  left  to  the  management  of 
the  Governor-general  of  India,  whether  our  ter- 
ritorial acquisitions  be  under  the  direct  adminis- 
tration of  the  crown,  or  the  delegated  one  of  the 
East  India  Company.  The  necessity  for  this 
arises  from  the  recent  extension  of  the  British  as 
well  as  Siamese  dominions,  an  extension  through 
which  we  have  become  immediate  neighbours, 
and  which  consequently  brings  the  Siamese  with- 
in the  pale  of  our  Indian  diplomacy.  The  de- 
tails of  our  diplomatic  intercourse  in  this  quarter 
may,  with  propriety  and  convenience,  be  en- 
trusted to  the  local  officers  on  the  British  fron- 
tier ;  and  it  appears  to  me  that  either  an  envoy, 
or  a  resident  agent  at  the  court  of  Siam,  will 
not  only,  in  general,  be  unnedessary,  but  even  a 
source  of  jealousy  and  irritation.  The  sea  on 
one  quarter,  and  impracticable  mountains  and 
forests  on  another,  are  barria*s  which,  together 
with  the  fears  and  discretion  of  the  Siamese 
Government,  will  in  all  likelihood  preserve 
us  long  at  peace  with  this  people.  Another  mo- 
tive will  tend  to  the  same  effect  *  there  is  no 


AND   COCHIN   CHINA.  473 

territorial  acquisition  which  we  could  make  from 
theiD,  with  the  exception,  perhaps,  of  a  good 
port  among  the  islands  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
gulf  of  Siam,  which  would  not  prove  both  use- 
less and  burthensome. 

The  circumstances  of  the  Cochin  Chinese  are 
very  different;  they  are  not  our  immediate  neigh- 
bours, but  far  removed  from  the  sphere  of  our 
Indian  politics.  The  cautious  and  prudent  fo- 
reign policy  of  this  people  is  sufficiently  shown 
by  the  history  of  their  relations  with  China  and 
with  France,  as  well  as  by  that  of  our  own  and 
of  the  recent  Burmese  Missions.  They  have  no- 
thing to  apprehend  from  us,  nor  do  I  conceive 
that  our  Indian  power  can  ever  have  any  thing 
to  apprehend  from  them.  The  fears  entertained 
by  our  Government,  at  one  period,  always  exag- 
gerated, arose  from  the  existence  of  a  French  par- 
ty in  Cochin  China.  This  party  is  now  extinct ; 
and  I  have  no  doubt,  in  the  present  state  of  the 
Goveitiment  of  that  country,  that  its  prudence 
is  such  that  it  would  maintain  a  strict  neutra- 
lity in  the  event  of  future  hostilities  between 
us  and  France.  Another  revolution  in  Cochin 
China,  and  the  formation  of  another  French  party, 
which  would  very  probably  follow  it,  would  be 
the  only  event  likely  to  prove  inconvenient  to 
us.  The.  numerous  and  fine  harbours  of  Cochin 
China  might  in  such  a  case  prove  safe  and  con- 
venient  retreats,    from    which   a   French   navy 

VOL.  I.  2  I 


474  EMBASSY   TO   SIAM 

might  harass  or  destroy  our  oommerce  with 
China.  But  this  evil  might  be  readily  averted, 
and  the  Cochin  Chinese  Government  reduced 
to  almost  any  terms,  by  the  easy  and  practica- 
ble blockade  of  two  or  three  of  the  principal 
ports  from  which  the  capital  and  other  portions 
of  the  kingdom  derive  their  food  and  other  re- 
sources. As  to  any  formidable  danger  to  our 
Indian  Empire  from  so  poor  a  country  as  Cochin 
China,  with  its  scanty  and  unwarlike  population, 
even  if  the  whole  kingdom  were  a  province  of 
France,  I  conceive  it  to  be  quite  visionary ;  for 
what  could  be  the  resources  of  such  a  country, 
in  comparison  with  our  extensive,  productive, 
and  populous  territorial  acquisitions  in  Hindos- 
tan,  long,  permanently  and  regularly  organized  ? 

The  reluctance  of  the  Cochin  Chinese  Govern- 
ment to  maintain  any  diplomatic  intercourse  with 
the  delegated  Government  of  India,  was  suffi- 
ciently displayed  in  the  history  of  our  own  Mis- 
sion, as  well  as  in  that  which  preceded  it;  nor 
do  I  see  any  advantage,  but  the  contrary,  in  at- 
tempting to  persevere  in  it.  It  is  another  seri- 
ous objection,  that  all  the  acts  of  the  Indian  Gk>- 
vernment  are  at  once  associated  in  the  minds  of 
the  Cochin  Chinese  with  our  territorial  aggran* 
disement.  A  direct  intercourse  with  the  Crown 
has  not  this  disadvantage ;  and,  as  it  would  con- 
ciliate and  flatter  the  Court  of  Cochin  China, 
and  thus  tend  to  extend  and  improve  our  com- 


AND    COCHIN    CHINA.  475 

mercial  relations,  it  ought,  I  think,  occasionally 
to  be  cultivated.  In  the  present  state  of  that 
country  we  have  nothing  to  ask,  and  the  in- 
tercourse therefore  would  be  purely  complimen- 
tary. The  delivery  of  a  letter,  and  a  trifling 
present  from  the  King,  will  require  no  extraor- 
dinary selection  of  diplomatic  talents.  An  intel- 
ligent and  prudent  commander  of  one  of  His 
Majesty's  ships  on  the  Indian  station,  would  be 
both  the  fittest  and  the  cheapest  ambassador  to 
employ  on  such  an  occasion.  Two  or  three  of 
his  officers,  and  a  few  marines,  would  form  an 
appropriate  suite,  sufficient  to  ensure  respect  and 
attention;  and  the  only  extra  assistance  neces- 
sary, would  be  a  Chinese  interpreter  understand- 
ing the  English  language,  always  readily  obtain- 
ed at  Singapore,  or  Prince  of  Wales's  Island,  both 
of  which  lie  in  the  route  to  Cochin  China. 


END    OF    THE    FIRST    VOLUME. 


LONUOtr: 

PR  I  !7  TED    BY    SAMUEL    BBN'TT.EY, 
Hoi  set  8ii<»<>t,  t'lvvl  Sirccl. 


MAR  4       1969